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No problem, ka6uup. I scanned in the manual and attached—maybe it'll be helpful for others too. One thing I'll point out from the wiring diagram: there are a couple of different important connections, but the main control module is powered by a brown 12V+ wire that should go to an "accessory only" fuse in the panel near driver's left foot (bottom of page 10). I'd start by making sure that the brown wire is still connected—mine was not when I first bought the rig, and reconnecting it was an easy fix. If your unit turns out to be unrecoverable, Rostra does make some universal kits for a couple of hundred dollars. I installed one on a little Toyota Echo a few years back; any mechanic could handle that job. dana-cruise-control-manual.pdf

I have not found any Dana instruction manual. They sold out to Rostra and they are less than usless I would appreciate a copy of your manual. I will gladly pay what ever charges you feel necessary Chuck

I can tell you that, on a 91 Warrior, Winnebago used Dana's Electronic Speed Control, and I wouldn't be surprised if that's the same unit on yours. Mine still works and is a big help for long trips, interstate travel. I've got the original 15-page manual with instructions, schematics, and troubleshooting—but maybe it can be downloaded elsewhere online? If not, let me know, and I'll scan the whole thing and make you a pdf.

Mine is very basic. No remote, no automatic lift. All manual. It's not like you have to walk very far to change the settings. Oh and 18 years ago I paid $179. My favorite part is the built in rain shield. Most vent fans require you to put those permanent rain shields that always stick up on the roof. I don't like the look of them. Wanted my sleek little Sunrader to stay that way. Even when the Maxxfan is up it looks very streamlined Linda S

We have had our little Toyota Rogue for three years. It has the 22re engine with manual 4-speed transmission. Does anyone have any information on these coaches? I've never seen one on the road. It has decals on back that say "Rogue" and underneath in smaller letters "Ranger Industries".

Propane and LPG are the same, but not all LPG is propane, perfectly clear right?🤔 Most Tri-fuel generators are propane, natural gas and gasoline. FWIW this is my Zombie Apocalypse set up. 3500w HF inverter generator, with a home made portable A frame shelter. Shelter is for noise and rain/snow. For the generator I keep 3 gallons of sealed long term storage fuel in metal cans. The generator is stored empty of fuel. The 3 gallons will last for 1 day. For squirrel induced outages or a car hitting a power pole that's enough fuel. But if a forecasted disaster shows up on the radar, a quick trip to the gas station gets me 20 gal of generator gas and 60 gallons in the RV just in case things go south. It takes about 5-10 min to drag the generator out of storage, hook it up, fuel it and get things back on line. I have a manual transfer switch that has 6 circuit breakers. Lights, heater fan, microwave/fridges, TV/computer/charger for wife's CPAP "solar generator", washer/drier motors. I have natural gas for heat, hot water, cooking and a clothes drier. Things just normally coast at night, without the generator. Our "disasters" are usually a blizzard so no AC, but HEAT is good. The unused breaker feeds a dedicated outlet in the bedroom just in case there is a summer disaster and we need a small window AC for a while. The solar panels are maybe ,depending on things, not much solar gain in a whiteout with 40 mph winds The RV can always become the lifeboat, as in leave before the storm. I guess your disasters are different and Ca. has fires and earthquakes, so a bit of adjustment is needed.

I recently sold my 87 Dolphins and found this and was wondering if anyone would like it? Really good condition. If not I will just throw out. Thanks for everything!

I just bought my second motorhome it's a Dolphin. It has A 22RE and I know nothing about it. I am looking for a owner manual. To understand the electrical system and fuses. And how to run the fridge and heater. Many questions need answers. Hopefully the manual will explain it. Thank you

It's not being top heavy on the forest roads in Oregon, Washington. The washboard effect is the killer, dam near every nail and screw comes loose during the Star Party season, like a yearly thing for me to tighten/hammer everything back down.

FOR SALE 1984 Toyota Dolphin, 205,000, 5 speed manual, 22R. As a traveling musician, my Dolphin has provided me with a reliable, economical mode of transport and a roof over my head for the past 6 years. I am originally from the UK, and it is time for me to return to the UK and be closer to my parents. Unfortunately, just as I was about to travel on my last tour to Utah the head gasket blew. I don’t have the funds to repair it and then sell it so I am hoping someone would be interested in a vehicle that could be easily repaired. She is currently in Salida, Colorado. Body work needs attention, some seals need to be redone, but currently not leaking. Lower side shirt is missing but I have it inside the vehicle. Needs refitting. Recently replaced windshield, nice and clear. 5 speed manual gear box. 22r engine 6 bolt rear hubs Spare carburetor. I meant to replace the carb and seals and still have the replacement. Replacement steering rack box. Needs replacing. I have the unit just needs to be put in. 1 year ago put in airbags at the back to level out the ride height. New rear bumper with hitch 2 years ago. Fitted with 100w solar and control panel, supplies 125aH coach battery, connected to 1000w invertor Rear kitchen unit fitted with wood burning stove, stainless steel cladding with heatproof backing cladding. Wood burning stove is amazing in the winter. Can cook on it or just use for heating with a thermo coupled fan. Fridge needs to be secured in place but works on electric shore power or propane. New horizontal propane tank with gauge Propane stove top, 2 burner, one burner needs reconnecting @5 gallon water tank, runs to outside shower. I haven’t used the bathroom, or the hot water heater that runs on propane. The hot water tank leaks so I bypassed it, and just used cold water. Rear tires replaced 5 years ago, still have good tread Front tires replaced 3 years ago, great tread. I don’t have the title, but I will provide a signed REG 227 Application for duplicate or paperless title, you can perform a title transfer with a reg227. So, I’m looking for a buyer that either needs parts or hopefully is looking for a project vehicle. At this point, I don’t know what she’s worth. Make me an offer, knowing that you are supporting a musician in a pickle. If you want to see my music, search for followthedolphin on YouTube, no spaces. Email percie100@gmail.com Call 970 901 1896 ian Followthedolphin

You haven't lived till you run across a Nova Star they must have got a deal blue and green wire and a few other odd colors. The blue and green are the lighting wires I don't remember but I don't recall a single black wire.

I found a direct replacement alternator that puts out 130 amp, bolts right in, and uses all of the Toyota electrical hookups. It works with the stock gauges and idiot lights. I will be making the following changes: 1. New battery isolator (relay style) rated at 200 am 2. New circuit breaker leading to the coach battery-manual reset, rated for 150 amp 3. New 4 gauge wire leading from isolator to circuit breaker and from circuit breaker to coach battery I decided on this approach because I want more charging capacity and I did not like the idea of switching over to the GM alternator. I would have had to buy a GM unit, mounting bracket, adapter for wire harness, etc. I was able to get the isolator and circuit breaker online pretty cheap. The alternator was a little pricy but the total cost was only about 7$75 more than a used alt and all of the brackets & adapters. I will let you know how everything works. I also am adding a volt meter on the dash that reads the coach battery voltage so that I can keep track of everything. I have a 12 compressor refrigerator that works great but pretty much maxed out the charging capacity of the stock alt.

We live in South Alaska BTW! All kidding aside there a is a Sunrader always on sale here, maybe we should start an export business. 😉 Nice one, leather and a manual to boot! https://seattle.craigslist.org/est/rvs/d/seattle-1986-toyota-sunrader/7534868375.html

I changed the head gasket on my 20R in my driveway. The only difference between the 22R and 22RE is the RE is fuel injected. The FSM calls for leaving the intake and exhaust manifolds attached to the head. I agree…. makes the job much easier. You should have two engine hooks (front&rear) attached to the head. Makes removal very easy. You will need a portable engine lift, some heavy duty chain and a helper. 1. Remove the hood 2. Drain all fluids from the engine 3. Disconnect and label all cables, wires and hoses. 4. Unhook the exhaust pipe from the manifold. The rest is just to follow the manual regarding head bolts, cam sprocket etc. Raise the head straight up and out. Take your time. I did my head gasket in about 2 hours but my engine is pretty basic without a lot of extras.

Gary if you want to fix my leaky roof, I will happily do a head gasket for you! Good advice from REALLYRURAL but I would change one detail. Ideally, don't use wrenches to break stuck bolts free. And defiantly don't waste money on 6pt Snap On wrenches lol. Yes, use 6pt. But sockets and the right ratchet and extensions (where needed) will serve you better. With that said while you can usually get away with some cheaper sockets, cheap ratchets and extensions aren't a lot of fun to use and may not get you there. Not sure how tight the working area is on the intake side to get them all out, but I just did the exhaust manifold on mine with a 1/4 Snap On socket/ratchet set. As far as the wrenches go, I wouldn't hesitate to break stuck bolts free with my 12pt Snap On wrenches. But I know by feel when I can get away with that, and when I am going to get in trouble. Quality makes a HUGE difference here though. Like using cheap 1/4" drive tools to do this is a BAD idea. But a 1/4" Snap On ratchet with a 14" handle will break free a whole lot of things that it probably shouldn't be used for... Anyways as RR is saying, it isn't that bad of a job to do. I wouldn't hesitate to change it in my driveway, or on the road in an AutoZone/Walmart parking lot. But know your abilities and watch a few videos if you are a little uncertain. Heck, I would still watch a few myself if I had to do it just to get a quick overview. A new head can be gotten on ebay for pretty reasonable prices too. I am seriously considering doing mine preemptively as a precaution. If not and laziness kicks in, I will probably give some thought to having the kit on hand just in case. Haynes is okay, but the Toyota FSM is posted up on here for free and a little better info wise. I would probably use both though as I prefer a paper manual when I am under a hood. Printing out the needed parts on the FSM though is almost as nice.

Lost my Toyota truck manual, 1984 downnload. Any one have one to share? TT

Hi Gary I replaced the head on my 88 Toyhome. Bought the complete kit for 220 bucks included everything needed (new head, head bolts, gasket, gasket cement ect). I just checked ebay and they are still plenty of head kits in that price range. Brand new. With a new head you can leave any issues the old had behind. Having the new head to look at is helpfull when you are dismantling your engine. If you can read the Haynes manual and have some tools or a hundred bucks to by some then you can replace the head gasket. Torque wrenches can be rented from some autopart stores. 2 years after replacing the head I lost a head gasket due to a worn out thermostat. These rigs give the thermostat a workout and when you start getting temp swings that is the first thing to check. I replaced the head gasket in my buddys driveway. I got the parts from Autozone in Salem Mass. The parts guy was a Toyota Guru and got me everything needed using the vin number over the phone. I replaced the bolts at that time just to be safe. I think it was around 125.00 for all the parts at that time (2017). The intake has a whole lot of 11mm bolts. A 10mm and 11mm 6point wrench is a must for breaking things free 12 points will round some of them over. I got them from a snap on dealer it saw at a garage. I replaced the exhaust gasket with a thick graphite reusable one from a rock crawler website Good luck

There are hundreds of thousands of decks out there with the same screws 10 years on including my 21 year old deck and they improve every few years. Look for the green screws with a Torx drive head. One of my old campers is still in use with the PT wood rebuilt door I rebuilt in 1998 as is my Nova Star from 8 years ago and my present camper has a 5 year old PT rebuilt door constructed with PT and deck screws. Camper door are cheaply built soft wood with zero water proofing with butt joints my rebuilt's are all mitered joints that makes them much less flexible. PT is low grade wood you need to find the least knotty they will have to be ripped to size any way so they is going to be waste some of the boards maybe be as much as 50% but done right will out last the RV.

Hello everyone - Longtime lurker here, thank you to everyone for the wealth of information and community. It has been priceless. For all the reading and hanging around I've done, I'm still not clear on whether buy/sell/give posts are welcome here, if not forgive me! The "Sell or Buy a Toyota Motorhome" section of the site appears to be non-functional, as it has since I started visiting a few years ago. In any case, I'm making some updates to my '91 Winnie Warrior, and wanted to offer up (for free) the rooftop AC. This is available for pickup in Western MA. This Coleman Mach rooftop AC was working fine when I removed it a few weeks ago, but after I deal with the roof crater I plan to replace it with a 12V fan. I have all the parts and paperwork to the best of my knowledge. The unit was installed in 2000 according to a note on the manual, and this 1991 rig only has 85k miles on it, so I suspect it was rather lightly used. I put it on Craigslist a while ago, but no takers. Link with photos here. Please drop me a line if interested. Hoping someone out there can make good use of this. I'm also planning to remove the Onan 2800 generator, if that is of interest please feel free to drop me a line. Regards, Eric

thanks for the information I will do that. any other sites that any one else might know to frequent in my search.. A better question would be , besides Sunraiders and Nova Star, what other models are fiberglass bodies that do not involve a million screws/ rivets at the edges of the body

Hello everyone. I am also in search of a toyota rv .. sunraiders are hard to come by or are very far from Southern california. One toyota nova star I missed it was bare on the inside and every window needed attention but engine and interior of cab was decent. I saw an ad for a toyota dolphin 500. it is found on craigslist in Northern California (Grass Valley) non running but it is complete. they are asking towing fees. $640 (Celestial Valley towing) in case someone is interested. It was listed today

These are all more reasons to just switch to a diesel. A lot of the parts for this series are just expensive. Ive been buying stuff for the post-85. I need to learn more about the toyota diesels. None of them seem eye catching. The 3.4 seems good but I dont think california will let me. An OM606 would be cool and I can build to suite. I see tdi swaps. I see a lot of 3.0 jdm diesel engines with a 5 speed manual and transfer case for $4000. Which makes me want to just reuse my head bolts and throw a gasket in. edit. Thanks for the part number. These guys have a set. Grumplily ordering. https://www.lceperformance.com/20R-22R-OEM-Head-Bolt-Set-1975-1984-OEM-Toyota-P-N-p/1024077.htm Check out this stroker kit. If you toggle through the options you can see the differences in all these years. Different main bearings for 81. Etc. One thing I should check is I have the original engine https://www.lceperformance.com/Street-Stroker-Kit-Without-Rods-p/1010032.htm I also found a repair sleeve for the transmission output. It says it presses in from the outside.

Are you going to live in it? If that's the case a 21 is the way to go. I've never owned anything but 18 footers and they are great. Nimble, park anywhere and almost the same length as my Ford truck. In fact my Ford has a wider turning circle so U turns are a go. The draw backs are small holding tanks so you have to dump more often. Never really bothered me. A couple of other all fiberglass models are the Nova Star and the Odyssey Americana. They are even harder to find than Sunraders but you never know when something is going to pop up. Sunraders can and do leak. Anywhere there's a hole. Windows, roof vents but because of the fiberglass the damage is usually minimal. Hope you find what you want but don't wait. Life is short and a well cared for conventional model can give you years of enjoyment with basic maintenance. The experience is far more important than the rig your driving Linda S I love Whidbey Island too.

I have an "89 dolphin, and it came without an awning (fabric or frame). Anyone knew where to buy a replacement? I was thinking of a manual one. But I'm open to motorized if I had to. Thanks

Automatic transmission go with 4.88 axle ratio. 5 speed manual go with a 4.56. 4 speed manual no change in axle ratio