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REALLYRURAL

Toyota Advanced Member
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About REALLYRURAL

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Traveling. Well paying work that pays for the traveling.

    Small motorcycles that fit inside the Toyhome and riding them.

Previous Fields

  • My Toyota Motorhome
    1988 Toyota Itasca rebuilt in 2012 rewired 2014

    1991 Toyota Warrior currently undergoing full restoration. Had a pine tree fall upon it.
  • Location
    Located in Midcoast Maine
    Located in Downeast Maine
    Located in Central Florida
    Located In Rhode Island

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  1. Back to the rebuild. My first attempt at rebuilding the roof was using 1/4 plywood. I made side to side support with 1x2 oak and glued and screwed together. It did not look bad but I had to travel out of state for work so I covered it up and came back a year later. Upon starting again it was obvious that picking up where it was left off was not an option. Enough moisture had got to the 1/4 ply and other plywoods used to make them moldy and de-laminating.. So I tore everything out and choose pvc boards and panels for everywhere wood was before except for structure like the top plates on the wall. I used pressure treated 5/4 decking held on with3 inch long by quarter diameter deck screws I picked up at Fastenal great screws. I used aluminum channels for the side to side roof support. I built it so that I can stand in most places on the roof and can add more strength down the road. I was going to use the original filon on the overhead and front but backtracked on that and went with pvc everywhere on the roof except the front. I used 1/16 FRP there and it worked out well and was easy to make the curves. The camper wall on the drivers side is tongue and groove pine and has worked out fine. If I was going to do it again it would be pvc panels then select out of the millions of patterns of wallpaper for a finish. I screwed and glued the roof. I used a marine adhesive that has held up well.
  2. This is not where I want to go with this thread but I will explain the transmission for you. The output shaft (part number 678) is driven by the driveshaft. The only thing directly hooked to the output shaft (part number 678) is the forward planet (part number 582 the third picture from the left shows a picture). The forward planet (582) is on a spline on the end of the output shaft (678) it is locked on with a cir clip (part number 694). The forward planet (582) spins the forward ring gear (592 the picture all the way to the right) which spins inside of the the forward drum (part number 554 fourth picture from the left) that holds the the forward clutch (part numbers 126 and 106 make the forward clutch) The forward clutch is held into the forward drum by a Cir Clip (part number 876).. When towing in neutral the only thing affected is that forward clutch assembly and it burns up from lack of lubrication. Here are the pictures of mine. It is the only thing I replaced to get the transmission up and going 10k miles ago.
  3. When I picked this up at the salvage yard the transmission was slipping in forward as it had been towed in neutral from where the tree fell on it to the auction then from the auction to the salvage yard. Towing in neutral cooks the forward clutch pack as it has no lubrication and this clutch pack is the only section that always turns with the output shaft (more on that later). I flushed the transmission and added some Lucas to it and got it working again (it may well have kept working if I had driven it every day after. But it was parked for over two years before put back on the road}. Upon getting it home I tore it apart to inspect and assess just what I had gotten what myself into. AC unit was trashed, I cut the roof just about 2 feet forward of the bathroom, I still find pieces of the broken windows, door frame badly bent, .. Turns out what had been a nice looking Toyhome (61 thousand miles) that had been cared for and just had an insurance claim and been through that process. It had just as much rot behind that vinyl wallpaper as any of these you find. The overhead had extensive rot and needed a rebuild even before the tree fell on it. The rear wall in the bathroom was the same. Leaks around the openings in the ceiling had compromised the wood in that area. Before the tree fell this rig was a nice looking rig that anyone who did not know to scratch the surface would be really excited to purchase. The systems all worked, super clean, maintenance records, new tires, no rust it had everything one could want and would have gone a few more years before the rot really got the best of it. Point is that any 20 year old camper is going to have those types of issues. The original owners purchased it to go camping and did not know how water gets in through every nook, cranny and screw hole. After tearing it apart I went looking for new windows and started rebuilding the skeleton. The skeleton is aluminum extrusion 3/4x2. I found that Tractor supply in their junk pile has a constant need to dispose of 3/4 x 2 steel extrusion and will give me all I want (something is shipped in the framework). I lucked out and found some used windows at a place in Chelsea Maine that had just opened as a new and used RV supply. 175 bucks for the windows. More later.....
  4. Been spending time going through 10 plus years of Digital Photos of various projects I have done. The 1991/1992 Warrior while still a work in progress is well worth sharing with others. A few pictures to start with then I will add more with some commentary.. When I purchased the 1991 it had just come from an Insurance auction. It had been declared a total loss from an encounter with a pine tree. There was a branch 5 inches around driven through the floor just missing the fuel tank. It had staked the rig to the ground and someone had used a chainsaw to free it from the ground so it could be towed away.
  5. I rebuilt this 1991. For exterior and roof I used 1/4 thick 4x8 sheets of PVC and glued together with 3M 5200. I lapped the seams with 1/8 fiberglass bathroom panels on the roof. Two years and 10000 plus miles the roof has held up well. I have one minor leak in a seam just need some weather to clean and seal with 5200. If I was going to do another RV I would put more camber in the roof maybe 2 inches higher in the center. Support it with strips of 5/4 decking (fore and aft) cut to 2inches in the center then every foot side to side to the edges. Then cut foam to fit between them glue it down 3m 5200. Make up a long sanding / fairing board to sand the new contour onto the foam then use the Pvc sheets on the roof. Any holes through the roof (AC ,vents) I would pick up with pvc pads so everything is mounted a half in higher than the roof. My first attempt at this roof was with luan plywood. A small amount of water and It was a mess. I ripped it out rethought my design and went with the PVC. Pvc is worth the expense. It is very easy to work with and glues up nicely.
  6. I am not supporting this in any way just passing it along. They are more creative than someone flying a sign in a Walmart parking lot. https://waldo.villagesoup.com/2021/11/30/aime-asks-for-community-support-of-its-betty-the-artvan/ https://www.alphalibra.com/betty-the-artvan https://hi-in.facebook.com/waldocountyme/posts/1061311264710563 From a bad decision to ‘Betty The Brilliant ArtVan’ https://www.penbaypilot.com/article/bad-decision-betty-brilliant-artvan/154935
  7. AW is used acrossed many manufactors. Same internals different bell and tailshafts (4wd can be converted to 2wd and vice versa).Pulled parts from a 4 wd a340 to get my trans working and when I got to Florida I pulled the trans again and replaced the forward assemblies with internals from a turbo charged lexus rated for 5oo horsepower. Got the low mileage trans for a hundred bucks as I was just using it for parts and no warranty. If you are slipping in forward gears It is a fairly easy repair. In my mind. Then again people tell me I am out of my mind.
  8. jjrbus I like your staging for working on the front end of the rv. It certainly distributes the weight and forces in an appropriate way. I use saw horses on either side with staging planks. I will do something along the lines of what your doing in the future. Could you do a thread about how your staging works? Did you put leds for the cabover lights. I do not run the cabover lights as holes in that area when driving will at some point leak.
  9. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Loctite-PL-Marine-10-fl-oz-Fast-Cure-Adhesive-Sealant-2016891/206156418 I use Loctite Marine Adhesive to put most things rv related together. You do not need the fast cure the regular stuff cures in 24 hours also.
  10. When rebuilding my 1991 I used a fiberglass panel from Home Depot. Inexpensive solution and no worries about a leaking window. On my 1988 toyhome I used plywood first and replaced it a few years later with 1/2 inch pvc board.
  11. I just spent a weekend riding an excavator repairing my 4000 plus foot long camproad and took the time to make two camp sites along the road. It is on a lake and surrounded by 175 acres that are forever wild. It is secluded but only minutes from anything. If you are in the area Members here are welcome to a site on a first come first serve basis. Hope to see you soon. Contact me when in the area.
  12. I used Dayco kit number WP154K1B came with all parts needed 175.00. Purchased from CarQuest Rockland Maine. Replacing the timing belt on my 91 was a very easy and satisfying job compared to other timing belt jobs I have done. The upper Idler pully was a bear. Have to loosen the fuel line and used 1/4 socket set and extensions along with a cheap extension magnet to get the socket on the bolts. But all in all if you have enough confidence to change an alternator or radiator the timing belt is within your wheelhouse Pull the radiator and spark plugs.
  13. I have used exculsiviy Locktite Marine Adhesive that I purchase from Home Depot on my 1991 that was destroyed by a pine tree. f It works well on any product. I used pvc on the exterier walls, roof, some interior walls, and used it to make fillets joining panels together. I used Frp panels to rebuild the bathroom walls and used this exclusively. I just cut out a section to install an ac unit and the adhesive held it was the foam or Plywood that failed when I did a destructive test to see how it was working. It is second best to 3m 52 hundred that will glue anything and 10 bucks a tube cheaper.j I have 8 thousand miles on my rig using this to glue everything together and have not hadno anything fail.j If you want to take it apart again that may present the problem. It has taken the full sun, heat changes , north/south, and 80 miles and hour and not failed. It remains flexible/rubber. Meaning it does not sand fine but it is machinable and bondo and epoxies stick to it and then you can go for a finer finish on those products. It is the most reasonably priced product that sticks everything a toyhome needs I can find. If you want to spend a whole lot more there are amazing products available just not affordable.
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