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Everything posted by jjrbus
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I ordered an aftermarket tank for my Toyota, when I went to install it I decided it was poor quality and did not use it. A local shop cleaned and lined my tank for $245, took 10 days to get it back.
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What tire pressure for a 1990 19ft Winnebago Warior with dualies
jjrbus replied to RoadWorrier's topic in General Discussion
I stay away from scrap yards, too much small scrap waiting for a tire to puncture. Used to be when the highway truck scales were closed the scales were left on. The new computer ones in Florida are off when the stations are closed. I read what is posted on the forums and then do what Michelin posts! They also have a good blowout video.. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lkwOE1yKY5c&t=40s -
What tire pressure for a 1990 19ft Winnebago Warior with dualies
jjrbus replied to RoadWorrier's topic in General Discussion
Over inflated is over the psi recommended in the load and inflation table for the weight. Now I see why I stopped posting about tire pressure! -
What tire pressure for a 1990 19ft Winnebago Warior with dualies
jjrbus replied to RoadWorrier's topic in General Discussion
Riding on over inflated tires, referred to as riding on bowling balls can cause longer stopping distances, hydroplaning and tire damage as the tire cannot flex when hitting anything on road. Also can mask that one tire is flat or low on air, then you can continue on until the other tire blows! -
What tire pressure for a 1990 19ft Winnebago Warior with dualies
jjrbus replied to RoadWorrier's topic in General Discussion
Internet myth . My rear axle scale weight is 4820 lbs, approximately 2400 lbs per side. A load range D tire inflated to 65 psi is rated at 1764 lbs dual and 1874 lbs single. No where near 2400 lbs, a 30% overload. Derick and I use to PM about this. -
What tire pressure for a 1990 19ft Winnebago Warior with dualies
jjrbus replied to RoadWorrier's topic in General Discussion
Everyone seems to have an opinion on tire pressure. There is a company been making tires for over 100 years, has billions of miles of tire experience. Bus loads of tire engineers and truck loads of computers. They also have access to data from university's, governments and car manufactures. They made a video on how to weight and determine correct pressure for tires and are financially liable if the info is wrong. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wb7W-nRAPrk&t=21s -
After Toyotas are gone, what's the newer choice?
jjrbus replied to BobBeery's topic in General Discussion
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After Toyotas are gone, what's the newer choice?
jjrbus replied to BobBeery's topic in General Discussion
Before I bought my Toy I spent a year on the Rialta site. Started to notice a couple things. First was people that bought them were getting rid of them far too often. Second was service complaints. The end for me was a couple that took a sabbatical from work and headed off across country. Got someplace in the midwest and the transmission failed. Had a difficult time finding someone to service it and when they did were told they could pick it up in 4 months at a ridiculous cost! No thanks. The Toy has a cornucopia of parts available, rarely hear of someone having an issue getting service. Tons of technical info, quite a few RV forums and several Toyota mechanical forums. No Toys available I would go right past the VW and into a Ford/Chevy class B or C. -
Something else to keep in mind on mpg some people who post mpg are delusional and honestly believe they are getting 20% better mileage than 100's of other similar rigs. Then their are those who in an effort to impress lie about their mpg. Musing on it, the front of a toy is ball park figure 60 sq ft, the frontal area of a roof air is about 3 sq ft or less than 2% of frontal area. If eliminating the AC equates to a 2% increase in mpg, I would much rather be cool when parked than have a 2% increase in mpg when driving. And I am very skeptical of a 2% increase and would guess it would be negligible. Also never saw any wind tunnel testing of an RV which would be interesting. Looks like a fun project, I do not have much to offer but will enjoy reading about your efforts and effects.
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Can sit with a computer and compare MM vs SAE sizes. Some are within a few thousandths of an inch and interchangeable. 15/16 and 22mm are not even close! I do not carry a lug wrench, prefer a socket, extension and breaker bar. I have no intention of changing my own tire, ERS is farmed out to the lowest bidder and do not trust them to show up with a 23 mm socket. Average mm socket set does not contain a 23mm socket.
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I have asked many times about lug nuts for the unicorn 86, 6 handhole wheels. They take a flanged, not conical lug nut. Dorman shows 610-339 lug stud which is the same as my 93. A M14-1.50 thread. But they list a 12 mm lug nut for it. If anyone has found a fanged lug nut that they have used would like to have the part # to keep in my files as it comes up every now and then. I have seen this or that might work but hesitant to recommend anything.
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Ebay did a bad thing when they hid the sellers. This RV price may have been run up by a 12 year old in Venezuela and purchased by someone who has no intention of paying for it. Will see if it comes back on the market. Sometimes will see requested that a person with zero feedback must contact seller before bidding. Then toss in all the counterfeit products on Ebay and have a real mess.
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Not any riskier than some of the stuff I have done. I do not like the possibility of losing both tires at once. I use a 4 sensor system on the rear tires, utilizing a high quality stainless steel extension on the inner dual. PS. A high quality stainless steel extension is stainless steel braiding over poor quality, cheap, made in China rubber hose😂. But when it fails the sensor will notify me.
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Deciding that pro rated replacements are a rip off and warranty's not what they were, plus having an issue with a Wal Mart battery failure. I go to the local battery distributor and look for blems. Now have a Marine start battery in my Toy for $50. My favorite brand now are Blems.
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Our issue is that people have become conditioned to having the gov fix things. If most people would reply to such scams and waste their time they would go away.
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Bought a $30 set, cheap plastic, needed to replace them in about 2 years. Sealed the seems with caulk on the 2nd set and several coats of clear spray. They are holding up better but are not going to be in use in 5 years.
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We read the stories and some talk about a little damage needing repair and some inconvenience. Here is the all time winner as far as I am concerned. I do not think of tires as a one time expense but a yearly maintenance cost. A set of tires should last 6 years so they are $XX amount of dollars a year.
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I get 23 mpg in my V6! I keep it extremely clean, roof and underneath, dirt causes friction and kills mpg. I am also a superior mechanic and can do far better tuneups compared to most. I keep tire inflated to the load and inflation tables which is proven to improve mpg. Then of course anticipating traffic, red lights etc. This gives me a constant 10 in the city and 15 on the highway 10+13=23 😁
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