Derek up North

A possible source for alternate screens. https://www.google.com/search?q=sink+strainer+mesh&client=firefox-b-d&sxsrf=ALeKk01XbIfK6eKMIJhvJVJEOzJgrtiLaA:1586103651504&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwif-eXF2NHoAhUZhXIEHUr_CGEQ_AUoAXoECA0QAw&biw=1252&bih=582 My Dollar Store has 3-packs.

30+ year old wiring might well appreciate the addition of a relay kit.

I think you'll find them excellent assuming your headlights are receiving full voltage and have a good (often ignored) ground.

Other potential leak points on any MH (including Sunraders) are clearance lights, roof racks, antennas, solar panels, etc. Of course any physical/mechanical damage.

You currently have 185/60R14 fitted? That was the standard tire size & capacity for my 1984 VW Rabbit GTI. Good luck with that! If you want a little more (safely), install 185R14 102/100 tires and a 4.88:1 or 5.29:1 differential.

The first and last Sunraders were build in the California plant. They all had the wrap around windows. Sunrader also had a plant in Indiana and all Indiana Sunraders had the smaller windows. I'm not enough of a Sunrader 'scholar' to be able to say if Indiana Sunraders ever had the 'updates' (Fiberglass cabinets, roof supports).

February 1980

Trying to buy parts for the TOYOTA part of your Sunrader will not be helped knowing the Sunrader ID number. You'll only be helped by the TOYOTA VIN.

Can't say I've noticed anything 'cranky' since JD left. With so many people stay (I hope) at home, your ISP might be overloaded and throttling back speeds?

Where I am, the only thing that counts is the Toyota VIN. Anything assigned by a motorhome manufacturer isn't in the system.

I've never heard of a '5 digit' VIN. Got a picture?

https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/rvs/d/oregon-city-toyota-itasca-spirit-only/7100118969.html

Have you checked what year it is using the VIN?

https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=best+rv+gps+app+for+android

Another source of information:- https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/main.do Their YouTube Channel:- https://www.youtube.com/user/JamestownTV

For those not familiar (like me) with the 'wireless' option, here:- https://www.airliftcompany.com/products/compressor-systems/wirelessair/

Care to share a link?

Drain separately. You can probably find the manual for your appliances on www.bryantrv.com.

I'm sure we can only guess as to how a Sand Pak' might have the Toyota frame extended. For those who don't know, here's what's being discussed.

It won't be different from the others posted above. You'll see they're very general.

For more 'structural strength', use one of their reinforced products. Less likely to crack. https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/Bondo-Glass-Reinforced-Filler/?N=5002385+3293242372&preselect=8711351&rt=rud https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/Bondo-Hair-Long-Strand-Fiberglass-Reinforced-Filler/?N=5002385+3293241078&preselect=8711351&rt=rud Epoxy resin is also brittle. That's why people use it with fillers or fiberglass cloth/mat.

I'm guessing the structure of a Chevy van is a lot more rigid than are 'sheds' built up on the back of a Toyota pickup. All those rattles and squeaks are an indication of this.

Bondo is not a structural material and I would anticipate cracks appearing.

Autozone website has wiring diagrams that show what the wire colours should be. A good starting point.

Even Sunrader didn't bother linking the cab to coach stripes. At least in some years.