Derek up North

If you go back to the first post, you'll see that just about all the part numbers are for Aftermarket suppliers, and all those can probably be cross-referenced to other Aftermarket suppliers and Toyota PNs.

I think your VIN should be enough to find parts.

Yes, seal the light with butyl between the light base and house with butyl tape. add a little around the mounting screws and wires. LED lights are 'polarity sensitive', so if they don't work, reverse the wires. Test before sealing with butyl! Going simply by wire colors is not a good idea, especially wiring in the house. Double especially by any added by previous owners! I wouldn't be surprised if the light wiring is designed following 'normal 12v automotive convention (Red = +ve, Black = -ve). It appears to be quite common (but not universal) for the 'house' to use 'White = Negative'. Black, brown, green and purple seem 'popular' for Positive. Here's wiring for Dolphins and Winnebagos. 1990 Automotive 085259.pdf

I've been known to use the free color samples of countertops from Home Depot to make my own scrapers. Or even old credit cards for a lighter weight version. As always, test (learn) where damage/problems won't be seen.

Some changes in your Settings might be required.

Hankook Vantra prices continue to jump around. Today's price @ Walmart:- Simple Tire:- Check Amazon while you're at it. It never costs anything to ask a local tire shop if they can price match what you find online.

320RB - Plumbing.pdf 321RB - Plumbing.pdf 321RL - Plumbing.pdf http://bryantrv.com/owners.html http://bryantrv.com/docs.html EDIT: I just realized you've a Dolphin and not a Winnebago, so at best, the plumbing info might only be useful to give you an idea how yours might be similar to.

Where it goes, I can't help with. But now knowing what it is, I'd say put it anywhere that there's a gap, ugly edge or possibility of squeaks.

Ah. I'd call it 'edge trim'. Available in different materials, sizes and colours.

Sorry, but 'fringe' does not compute. A picture would work wonders.

Old 3-T vs New Airlift comparison. Even the look of the 3-T 'Head Office' doesn't inspire much confidence (in me).

I don't know how they were built, but if it makes sense to you to have some wood strips to help your rebuild, add'em.

Condition is priority #1. Why limit yourself? Why not 'any V6'?

Sorry, but 'truck bed' does not compute.

And a BFH.

Sometimes a limiting factor for a shop is the height of their doors or ceiling height. As soon as they hear RV, they probably automatically say 'No' without realizing you're not a Class A monster. Maybe if you ask if they can handle a pickup with a slide-in camper?

The shock prices are ridiculously high and the tire price suspiciously low (I'm guessing car tires). I'd try to find a mobile mechanic for the shocks. An easy driveway job.

I think you mean 30w/hr. Actually, ~31kw plus loses in the inverter.

KYB shocks make an excellent choice for people on a tighter budget.

I'm not sure why you would replace the shackles if it just needs bushings. Like replacing rims & tires when you just need tires.

One of the Sunraders advantages is NOT (large) size compared the 'full-size' Toyota Motorhomes. Inside height is usually shown as 6'-0"' Inside width is also a bit less. (78" vs 80") AFAIK, the extra 3' of length is in the 'kitchen'. Dinette & bathroom appears to be the same.

Information on the air springs used by 3-T. Someone just ordered and received a kit from 3-T (April, 2020) and in the box was:-

Or you'll need to buy an inverter.

Same thing. 3VZE is just a bit more 'gearhead/geeky'. [Toyota also made/sold a 'V6 3.0' in the Camry. A completely different engine with it's own 'problems'.]