Skydancer2992

I do have a V6 but wrongly assumed that the same year 22RE filter would fit. I pulled my old filter which actually looked almost new. The new filter would not screw into place because of different size threads. Smaller, as I recall. Put the old filter back in place and ordered a couple of fuel filters from U-haul Ebay. At least they don't carry incompatible 22RE parts.

With a break in the weather this weekend, I finished the install of my new exhaust manifold on the driver side. The new one from Uhaul ($60) just looks so good compared to the old rusty one. A gasket change would probably have sufficed. None of the studs broke, most backed out with the frozen nuts. I had to reuse several of the longer studs due to the threads being partially stripped.

Perhaps window security film is a good idea. I have already installed it on my windows at home.

One other item, the rubber bushings in my rear springs were worn out. The metal pin of the shackle was contacting the metal of the spring. Replacing the bushings with a Prothane kit ( I bought the kit for the entire vehicle) improved ride, raised the rear end an inch, and gave me another half inch between axle and bumper.

If you are bottoming out (axle hitting the rubber bumper) then anything that increases that gap will make a noticeable difference. I currently am using coiled helper springs on my 91 Warrior because they were cheap $25. However, I think that the airbags will provide a better response (logarithmic vice linear). I've seen some web debates on Timbrens but they seem to have a rougher ride. The advantage is no maintenance or adjustment. Also, a disadvantage, can't adjust.

However, a 22RE fuel filter will not fit on the V6 fuel line.

I use a jumper (two alligator clips on a piece of wire going across my dead isolator) if I want to use my engine to charge the coach battery. I've only done that once, when dry camping at the Grand Canyon. My significant other insists on having electrical power when staying at campgrounds. Therefore, I let the campgrounds charge my coach battery.

From thermodynamics, cold intake air is the best for performance. The stock system has an intake from behind a headlight. The K&M installation looks like it takes air from the engine compartment. The stock system seems like it would have an advantage.

I've not had that problem with this site. However, I once had a search tool virus that redirected all my searches (google, yahoo, bing) to ad sites. None of my virus checkers (Mcaffee, Malwarebytes) would find it. What worked was to have windows go back a month to an earlier configuration.

I've had good luck using the Walker Online Exhaust catalog. I use the specs and then measure the parts on my 91 Warrior. Almost all the Walker parts match up except for the pipe between the muffler and catalytic convertor, which comes up short. I take the part number and compare prices between ebay and Advance Auto. Advance Auto often has good online discounts, like half off. If you still have a factory exhaust, it basically bolts together. The hard part is breaking the bolts free or cutting them out. My muffler, tailpipe and supports are all Walker.

EnergyStar is an EPA program and seeks to promote the top 5-10% efficient models in a product category. When more than 50% of the products reach the EnergyStar standard, EPA will tighten up the threshold to once again target the best 5-10%. Dept of Energy is the entity responsible for the energy usage labels on most appliances. Many EnergyStar products qualify for income tax and utility rebates. I received about $800 ($300 utility/$500 Federal Income Tax credit) once for upgrading to a hybrid gas-electric heat pump system for my house.

The manual I was quoting from is actually the 1990 Toyota Truck Repair manual Volume I, that I bought on Ebay for $20. It includes both the 3VZ and 22RE engines. For 85, there was only one volume for the engine, frame and accessories. In later years, the engine became volume I and the accessories/frame items were included in volume II. Many campers use the vehicle of the prior year. My 1991 Warrior is actually a 1990 Toyota truck. I like having a hard copy when working on the vehicle. In my younger years, I would show the manual and procedure to the mechanic. One actually said he would have had a hard time without the manual. Bests to you, Marc

Some items from the Factory Repair Manual, 22RE Troubleshooting for Hard Starting Check vacuum leaks: PCV hoses EGR valve Intake Manifold Air intake chamber Throttle body Check for air pulling in between air flow meter and throttle body. Spark Plugs, wires, ignition coil, distributor EFI system, mass air flow meter (check resistance with meter) Fuel filter clogged or fuel pump pressure low.

In your situation, look for the leak immediately after engine shutdown. Check your heater hoses and use your nose to sniff for the "sweetish smell" of coolant. You can sometimes smell it in the exhaust as well (only one sniff). Change your oil yourself and check the old oil for signs of coolant. I have had disappearing coolant occur in two different vehicles. Each time, the coolant loss would occur right after engine shutdown, when the engine cooks internally without the benefit of active cooling. The pressure in the coolant system seems to spike. The first instance was the tip of a heater hose was starting to split. The mechanic showed me where the leak was and cut off the tip of the hose, clamped it back in place and told me be on my way, no charge (as I was a college student at the time, I was eternally grateful). The second instance is still with me on my 96 4Runner. After shutdown, a few drops of coolant leak on my crossover pipe and provide a distinctive stench. This happened in 2006 and I just wanted the 4Runner to last another year or two since it was getting close to the 250K mark on the odometer. I worried about it for the first year. I now have over 350K and the problem is still present. I add a cup of coolant each month. If the problem becomes worse, I will probably do a combined valve job, timing belt change and head gasket change. Between my Warrior and 4Runner, I have 600K miles. I've put another 500K on several other Toyotas in the past. I've learned over time not to let the small mechanical issues reduce my enjoyment of the vehicles. The Toyotas have not been my main source of car repair knowledge. They are just too reliable. The vehicles of friends and relatives are the ones that help me appreciate how well the Toyotas are designed.

Doing a double project over the last few weekends. Exhaust leak on the driver side manifold prompted me to pull the manifold. Used plenty of penetrating oil to try to unfreeze the manifold nuts (6), crossover pipe nuts (3) and downpipe nuts (3). Most of the nuts were a congealed mass indistinguishable from the stud. Usually the stud backed out with the nut being too frozen to move. This was actually a blessing as the manifold was easier to pull out (the entire top row of studs were no longer present). I loosened the nuts on the passenger side crossover pipe to allow some play for pulling the manifold out (the studs for the crossover were still in place on the manifold). The key to removing the bottom manifold nuts is to take the driver side wheel off and use long extensions through the gap in the inside fender well. The negative side of removing studs is that I will need to buy new studs at $2 a piece and new nuts also about $2 each. The studs are hard to find and have to be special ordered by Toyota. I did buy a set of two generic studs from Advance Auto for comparison but they do not look like as high a quality as Toyota OEM and did not cost any less. I also had to buy three smaller studs to attach the heat shield to the manifold but these were a "bargain" at only $.60 cents each at the dealer (Uhaul tech is $1). The old gasket showed a leak on the forward most cylinder. The bottom middle nut on the manifold was missing. This is the hardest nut to access due to obstructions from the stearing components. I suspect that a previous mechanic did not bother to install this nut. Based on signs of twisted fender wall metal, this is probably a repeat repair. I ordered a new manifold from Uhaul Tech on Ebay for about $60 and a new set of Felpro gaskets for about $35. To remove the manifold, I had to take off the driver side front wheel. I noticed the sway bar bushings were splitting badly. I already had a Prothane bushing kit sitting in the garage (I had ordered a complete set of bushings for the entire vehicle when I worked on the rear springs - full kit was significantly cheaper than buying the individual items separately). Since I'm waiting for some Toyota brand crossover pipe and downpipe gaskets to arrive at the dealership (U-haul has the same gaskets at half price but I did not know the part numbers until I looked at my dealer receipt - I ordered a back up set from Uhaul) I jacked up the other side and removed the second wheel. All the bushings are now replaced. The key to replacing the bushings is to remove all the bushings and then work on the front bushings first and then do the aft. The aft ones are hard to line up if you do not have the wheel jacked back into place. I used my floor jack to move the wheel back up which moved the rear D-shaped bushing into place. For the driver side, the rear bushing was slightly too far forward. After much effort and false starts with the bolt starting to cross thread due to the slightest non-alignment, I used a scissor jack to push the stabilizer bar aft. I was able to then insert the bolts easily and tighten up. New Prothane bushings have fewer components than the Toyota rubber ones. Toyota puts a washer between each puck while the Prothane poyurethane ones are stiffer and don't seem to need as many washers. The D shaped bushings are significantly smaller than the rubber ones. Both projects are interesting and nice to do once - like visiting Elvis's Graceland. The frozen parts were a challenge, and lying on your back in freezing weather at night is not the most fun but good exercise.

On my 91 Warrior I hooked one wire (purple) to the one coming with the new fixture. The other one I wrapped around one of the screws that mount the fixture to the fiberglass. Pictures are in my folder Skydancer's Warrior on the Yahoo site Toyota Campers site.

Getting close to red line, turning on the cab heat and full fan helped to cool down my old 22RE engine. The real cure was radiator replacement. I had tried to seal a pinhole leak on the radiator and a leak additive seemed to dramatically reduce cooling efficiency.

Reading about the Zuk mod on the Yotatech forum is the reason I thought I'd try out the coil springs. I used cheapor Harbor Freight tin snips to cut the airbags in half. The springs slipped right over the bag ends (I had already lifted the camper up by the frame for replacing the spring bushings). As the camper was lowered, the springs snugged up over the bag ends. I paid $25 for the SUperior helper springs on Amazon. The 1500# ones were on clearance. The Yotatech guys go to junk yards and buy Jeep springs, which would be somewhat stiffer. Have driven about 4000 miles on them. The main difference I notice is that the camper leans more with the coil springs than the air bags. I suspect this is because the springs have a constant coefficient whereas the airbags are probably logarithmic. I have a new airbag kit but I wanted to try out the simpler and cheaper solution first.

I bought the entire refrigerator hatch and frame from Bottom Dollar Surplus on Ebay. I paid very little, like less than $10.

You will get varying opinions. Aluminum is a very resistant metal but it can corrode. Avoid standing water and organic material (leaves) pooling around the air conditioner. I leave mine unpainted because I like the heat reflective properties but I park the front wheels on 2" planks to keep a slope that drains the rain water off the back of the camper.

The bearing on the cooling fan on my old converter failed. I could have replaced just the fan but the newer converters were superior in terms of low noise, better power regulation and weight, about 5# less.

You may have a bad ground or the voltage may not be reaching the bulb. For a bad ground: With the vehicle in reverse and ignition ON, use a voltmeter to measure between the bulb's contacts and a metal part of the vehicle chassis. If you get a voltage, check for where the circuit may be broken, often it will be corrosion due to water incursion in the lamp housing. There may be corrosion from dissimilar metal contact between the lamp housing and the path to ground. For no voltage: Try to follow a path from where there is voltage to where there is none. You may need to locate the reverse switch near the transmission and determine if there is 12V on both sides of the switch.

Sometimes the switch by the brake pedal can become misaligned. Press on the switch manually while an assistant watches the lights. Seemed like there was a pressure plate on the pedal that could be tightened.

I have a 91 Warrior and there was water damage on the floor of the over cab area. I used a half gallon of epoxy resin to seal up the damaged wood. For strength, a layer of fiberglass cloth was incorporated. The corner over the driver side was badly damaged with gaps of daylight. I removed the aluminum extrusion. I laid out fiberglass cloth on heavy duty Reynolds wrap. Brushed the resin on, and then carrying the aluminum by the "dry" side, I molded it around the corner of the camper. A piece of wood is still required to keep the patch flat.

Don't use epoxy, it will melt the foam board. Gorilla Glue or the low expansion version of Great Stuff spray foam works well for reattaching the delaminating fiberglass. I look for an existing penetration, such as a light, screw hole or previous damage from a puncture or jab. I have also drilled from the outside or sometimes from the inside. Using the straw nozzle of the spray can, I move it around several inches in circumference and then smoothed it out further by hand. Pushing on the fiberglass layer with a rubber glove. If you get any on your fingers, you live with it for about a week.