Homerocks

Thank you all for the replies. While things have taken an interesting turn, I'm having more problems, and they just don't make sense. Following my original post, I was away for about a week. When I got home I went to install the isolator I ordered http://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Tow-Ready/TR118665.html?feed=npn&gclid=CLGQiJvOhLwCFWhnOgodmGwAuw . When I popped my hood, I looked in the area that darrel's pictures showed, and found that I had two isolators under the hood. I still have the manual switch with the aftermarket heavy duty cable as in my original post, and I also have what appears to be the original isolator and cable installed, just at Darrel's pics showed. I had a three pole isolator mounted to the chassis with 10g cable coming off of each side of the isolator, and the center pole had a wire going to the wiper motor. Taking a look at this already installed (original?) isolator and cables, I quickly realized that the cable that should go from the isolator to the truck battery positive was connected from the isolator to the truck negative terminal. I first removed this cable from the battery. I then metered, and I found that the cable on the coach side is still wired to the coach battery (12.3 no shore power and engine off). I then went on to check both sides of the isolator, and when both sides of the isolator were connected, I had the same voltage on both sides of the isolator regardless of whether or not the ignition was on. When I metered the third pole (wiper connection on the isolator) I got no voltage when the ignition was off, and I got over 14v when ignition was running. So I installed my new isolator, which I linked earlier, and I got the exact same readings in all situations. I am baffled and becoming very frustrated. This should be very simple. Are all three isolators bad..including the new one? Could I be metering wrong? I have been measuring the hots with my ground on various locations, and I have gotten the same readings on both sides of the isolators, regardless of the truck running or not, shore power plugged in, or nothing plugged in. The voltage is passing through in both directions regardless of anything. What now?

Thank you for the replies. I guess my next question would be what is the stock alternated rated at, and what current breakers/fuses should be placed in line? And could I use a four pole solenoid if I manually wire the fourth pole to a ground?

Nice. The finishing looks great. What did you do with your converter? I see that the stock one is pulled out. I ended up replacing mine with a 3 stage 45A slide in kit from bestconverter.com. I'm assuming the new light fixtures are led? Looks great. I kept the original fixtures in mines, but I pulled the bulbs and soldered in leds. Not to drift on the thread topic here, but it's interesting seeing pics from another 89' because mine has some pretty significant differences. For example, I don't have windows in the sides of the overcab bed. Once I get a bit more done, I'll put up a thread with some changes on mine. I picked up a worn down beater and am turning into a fun vehicle for ski trips.

So, I was searching some electrical problems, and I stumbled across this thread. Yikes! Is there any update? I will admit that I skimmed many of the tangent posts in this thread while reading in full the posts by the few main contributors. With that being said, Sunnynshare really provided some great information on the surface, but mostly he provided a wealth of knowledge between the lines about lawyers and the judicial system. So how did this all turn out?

Can you provide the specs on the batteries? I'm in the process of all sorts of electrical work on my 89 Warrior, including the removal of the stock generator, and I really like your use of the space back there. Thanks

Pic 2

Hello, I've slowly been working on the electric on my recently purchased 89 warrior. I have come to the conclusion that I need to replace the isolator. Here is what leads me to believe it needs to be replaced: When I bought the warrior, I was told by the previous owner that the alternator will not charge the coach battery. When I popped the hood, I saw that this was due to the positive cable from the isolator to the coach battery was disconnected, taped off and cable tied (obviously disconnected on purpose). The isolator also appears to be a manual type (see photos). There is a physical switch to open and close the circuit within the isolator. There are only two posts on the isolator. One has a cable directly connecting to the truck battery's positive terminal with nothing else in line, and the other is for the positive feed to the coach battery (disconnected). There is no post for an ignition connection. I reconnected the coach positive cable to the isolator and found that with the coach battery and truck battery connected, regardless of the physical switch position, voltage was the same on both sides of the isolator. When I plugged in to shore power, both batteries charged. When the truck was running, both batteries charged, and when I had the truck off with no shore power, I got the same non charging voltage on both sides of the isolator and at both batteries. I'm assuming the isolator does not work, which is why the previous owner disconnects it. Does this sound correct? Also, what isolator would I replace with? Can I use a relay type? Is it pretty straight forward to run an ignition feed to the relay? Thanks Again!

Pete, So in total you are only using two 6v in series for the 255ah?

Hello, all. I'm new to the forum and I've done some research, but haven't found an answer. I would like I upgrade my converter. Would a progressive dynamics 9245 be the correct upgrade for an 89' warrior? My kohler generator is shot so I am using a honda eu2000i directly to the shore power plug. Will the 45 amp converter be too much for that generator? I already ordered the converter, but now I'm wondering If I jumped the gun. Thank you, Tony