Skydancer2992

I've owned Toyotas since 1986 and learned how to repair them from the Toyota factory manuals. When it came to buying a camper, Toyota was the logical choice. One thing I have been wanting in my 91 Warrior is a hatch over the gas tank to be able to access my fuel pump. My old 4Runner had one and I went through two fuel pumps over its lifetime. One hour at the most and I was back on the road. On the Warrior, I hate the idea of having to drop the tank for a simple pump swap. As for R-value of the floor, probably not a factor, except for over the exhaust and catalytic convertor. Road noise might be something to consider. I've seen thin Styrofoam for use with vinyl siding that might work as a medium between your plywood and the sheet metal (aluminum?). BTW, thanks for showing the "naked" Warrior.

Uhaul has a site on Ebay where they sell their old inventories of parts for the Toyota dually truck. They usually have oil coolers for less than $200. Their pricing is all over the place. Some are deals and some not. I bought a tire from them and it came with the wheel as well. Wish I'd bought a full set. Sold out quickly.

Most likely there was insufficient coolant in the engine. I've had the same experience after changing coolant. Several fillings of overflow bottle and radiator to get everything topped off. However, in my case the temperature would climb very high after a couple of miles of driving. Later, I found that it easier to remove the top radiator hose from the radiator. Pour new coolant directly into that hose and fill the engine completely full.

At the time I posted the link, I did not realize that she had posted a topless picture of herself in the blog. If anyone is offended by this sort of thing, don't read Days 15 & 16. Everyone else, this is a good read and don't just look at Days 15 & 16.

My Magnetek began to hum loudly. Opening it up, I could see the cooling fan was frozen. As this convertor tended to boil my cabin battery, I decided to swap out with the Parallax upgrade unit (I had bought one on Ebay for $30 was the main reason for why choosing Parallax). Swap was easy, about an hour because I decided to also upgrade the distribution with the included fuse panel. New unit weighed about 5 pounds less. The Magnetek could be a boat anchor.

Here's a woman presenting a first hand account of her RV adventure http://katedevinmusic.com/hello-world/ Seems like a lot of us are a "a bit off my rocker", perhaps mildly eccentric. She begins: "So I actually did it. After toying around with the idea for about three years, I went out and bought an RV. Yes, I realize the idea of living in an RV – especially in New York City – is crazy, but luckily my friends and family have all accepted the fact that I’m a bit off my rocker anyway, and have therefore expressed their congratulations and, to quote one friend, “mad respect”, of my newest endeavor."

Most likely your O2 sensor is marginal and may go bad. Watch your MPG carefully. If it drops about 20% then probably the O2 sensor. About as easy to change out as a spark plug. Also, make sure your gas cap is tight. Check the O-ring on the fuel cap for damage. Or just buy a new fuel cap if it is old. Keep the old one as a spare in case of loss. V6 Mini Wini has the fuel filter on the frame under the passenger side door.

However, if you have a tire tread separation, the rubber flap(s) can place your invertor cable at risk.

I met someone who owned an old diesel Ford Tempo. When asked where he got his fuel, he said that he had an underground tank full of heating oil.

Sounds like a normal Toyota motorhome. The water damage needs to be investigated further. Look for pooling under the mattress. The wood may be rotted. Nothing you listed sounds like a deal breaker. But you need to be happy that your purchase price has taken any repair issues into consideration. Both you and the significant other need to look at the camper as pictures often fail to capture details such as dry rot and surface impacts. If the significant other is female, then the different perspective will be useful. Especially if that person is expected to spend a lot of time in said RV. Without airbags or helper springs, my experience has been that the camper tends to "bottom out" - the axle hits the rubber bumper on the frame making for an unpleasant banging noise inside the camper. Not so noticeable up front but people in the back notice, particularly significant others. I'm currently using coil helper springs in place of air bags and am satisfied with the performance - this was an easy and cheap solution.

Walmart has a metal tape that holds up better than duct tape. Same size roll. Resists the elements better than duct tape. Or you can do a fiberglass repair. Most auto stores carry the resin and fiberglass cloth. Buy the extra thick aluminum foil and lay out the cloth on a piece of it. Mix up the resin in a paper cup and pour onto the cloth. Spread with a piece of plastic cut from a milk carton. Holding the patch on the dry side of the aluminum, press it to the repair site, molding it in the required shape by pushing on the aluminum backing. About an hour later, you can peel off the aluminum.

Use hydraulic jacks to raise the short side (7' side) up by two feet. Your former high side will now be the short side. Use hurricane ties, such as Simpson Strong Ties to keep rafters in place during the transition.

Count me in. The Toyhome Convoy on Sunday sounds like a lot of fun.

I once had a fuel leak on the road; pulled into an Autozone in Albuquerque, NM and crawled underneath. Looked like a mouse had been eating at the fuel line near the fuel tank. Pulled the hose off, simple clamp type fittings onto the metal tube that goes forward to the engine. The normal fuel line was out of stock but they sold me some fuel injection hoze that looked about the same but was a higher grade. I bought several extra feet as a precaution. Replaced about a foot of fuel line. Washed up in the Autozone facilities and was on my way. The fuel lines above the tank looked like ordinary fuel line.

The screws that are under the vinyl insert in the middle of the aluminum extrusions holding the edges of the body panels to the internal frame. I bought some at Tractor Supply Co. They are self-tapping but if you are simply replacing them in the existing holes, the replacements can be the cheaper wood screws.

On the Winnebago Warrior I leave the bed set up all the time and still use the rear window. A Fresnel lens makes a big difference. The side mirrors and wide angles are vital for checking blind spots.

4-Wheel drive. I could use a project like that! Wish it were closer.

Friday, was passing by Sikeston, MO, so I told the girlfriend we should stop at Lambert's Café for their "throwed rolls." She ordered a chef's salad and I ordered a barbecue sandwich. While waiting for the food, the staff threw rolls at us, brought boiled fried potatoes, macaroni, fried okra, apple butter, black-eyed peas - as many rounds as you want. The salad was served in a 14 inch bread bowl and piled high. We had salad for dinner last night and lunch today and still have quite a bit left.

I have a 91 Winnie Warrior and my roof sags about 1/3 inch in the center around the AC. Normally, in my driveway the two front wheels are on 8" wide boards to keep the water draining towards the rear of the RV. No pooling with this method. I did experience a leak under the AC unit. I caulked from the inside, using the end of a wooden paint agitator to push silicone sealant from my caulk gun into the seal/roof border. Also, removed the plastic cover on top and proceeded to seal the outside seal/roof border, again using the paint agitator to push sealant. Leak stopped. Also, had to chase leaks around the windows at the forward bunk and around the clearance lights. My long term plan is to replace with a low profile heat pump.

Time for the 91 Warrior to head North. Staying at St. Francois State Park just north of Park Hills, MO. http://mostateparks.com/event/60158/missouri-mines-rock-swap "Rock hobbyists from all over the U.S. will set up outdoors and under tents to swap and sell rock and mineral specimens, fossils, rock jewelry and other rock-related items. The public is invited and all are encouraged to participate. The historic site’s museum will be open free of charge during scheduled hours throughout the event. A covered dish supper for swappers will be held on Saturday evening and auctions of donated rock-related items will be conducted to benefit the site's mineral museum. The historic site co-hosts the rock swap with the Mineral Area Gem and Mineral Society and the Greater St. Louis Association of Earth Science Clubs. Click here to read the news release. Event times: Friday and Saturday: 9 a.m. - 6 p.m. Sunday: 9 a.m. - 4 p.m. 4000 State Hwy. 32, P.O. Box 492, Park Hills, MO | (573) 431-6226 "

http://www.autoshop101.com/ Toyota Automotive Technical Training SeriesSelect a Topic Below Electrical Automatic Transmission Engine Performance OBD I Auto Trans Diagnosis Engine Performance OBD II Brakes Hybrid Electrical (New 623 Course) Hybrid Diagnosis Web Series Technical Articles Toyota Series - Electrical 01 Electrical Fundamentals with questions.pdf file size 401KB 02 Electrical Circuits with questions.pdf file size 319KB 03 Electrical Components with questions.pdf file size 517KB 04 Analog vs Digital Meters with questions.pdf file size 35KB 05 Wire, Terminal and Connector Repair w/qu.pdf file size 270KB 06 Automotive Batteries with questions.pdf file size 741MB 07 Toyota Starting Systems with questions.pdf file size 870KB 08 Toyota Charging Systems with questions.pdf file size 850KB 09 Understanding Toyota Wiring Diagram.pdf file size 1.9MB 10 Electrical Diagnostic Tools.pdf file size 784KB 11 Diagnosing Body Electrical Problems.pdf file size 1.31MB 12 Semiconductors with questions.pdf file size 216KB 13 Transistors with questions.pdf file size 42KB 14 Computers / Logic Gates with questions.pdf file size 205KB 15 Overview of Sensors & Actuators w/quest.pdf file size 287KB 16 Electronic Transmission #1 - Operation.pdf file size 574KB 17 Electronic Transmission #2 - Diagnosis w/quest.pdf file size 287KB 18 Shift Interlock System.pdf 241KB Technical Articles Toyota Series - Engine Performance OBD 20 EFI#1 EFI System Overview.pdf file size 349KB 21 EFI#2 Air Induction System.pdf file size 500KB 22 EFI#3 Fuel Delivery & Injection Controls.pdf file size 727KB 23 EFI#4 Ignition System.pdf file size 435KB 24 Engine Controls #1 - Input Sensors.pdf file size 793KB 25 Engine Controls #2 - ECU/Outputs.pdf file size 495KB 26 Engine Controls #3 - Idle Speed Control.pdf file size 352KB 27 Engine Controls #4 - Diagnosis.pdf file size 446KB Technical Articles Toyota Series - Engine Performance OBD-II 31 Sensors#1 - Mode Sensors and Switches.pdf file size 201KB 32 Sensors#2 - Thermistors with questions.pdf file size 205KB 33 Sensors#3 - Position Sensors with questions.pdf file size 282KB 34 Sensors#4 - Air Flow Sensors with questions.pdf file size 302KB 35 Sensors#5 - Pressure Sensors with questions.pdf file size 261KB 36 Sensors#6 - Speed Sensors with questions.pdf file size 283KB 37 Sensors#6 - Oxygen / Air Fuel Sensors w/ques.pdf file size 328KB 38 Sensors#8 - Knock Sensors with questions.pdf file size 55KB 39 Ignition#1 - Ignition Overview w/questions.pdf file size 239KB 40 Ignition#2 - Electronic Spark Advance w/quest.pdf file size 223KB 41 Ignition#3 - Distributor / Distributorless w/qu.pdf file size 664KB 42 Fuel System#1 - Overview with questions.pdf file size 721KB 43 Fuel System#2 - Injection Duration w/ques.pdf file size 173KB 44 Fuel System#3 - Closed Loop /Fuel Trim w/qu.pdf file size 112KB 46 OBDII#1 - Overview of On-Board Diagnostics.pdf file size 331KB 47 OBDII#2 - Serial Data.pdf file size 289KB 48 OBDII#3 - Data Interpretation.pdf file size 304KB 55 Emission#1 - Chemistry of Combustion.pdf file size 301KB 56 Emission#2 - Emission Analysis.pdf file size 292KB 57 Emission#3 - Engine Sub Systems.pdf file size 180KB 58 Emission#4 - Closed Loop Feedback Systems.pdf file size 233KB 59 Emission#5 - Electronic Spark Advance.pdf file size 130KB 60 Emission#6 - Idle Speed Control Systems.pdf file size 118KB 61 Emission#7 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation.pdf file size 227KB 62 Emission#8 - Evaporative Emission Control.pdf file size 148KB 63 Emission#9 - Positive Crankcase Ventilation.pdf file size 126KB 64 Emission#10 - Catalytic Converter.pdf file size 316KB 65 Emission#11 - Secondary Air.pdf file size 107KB Technical Articles Toyota Series - Hybrid Hybrid01 Hybrid System Overview.pdf 579KB Hybrid02 Hybrid System Operation.pdf 877KB Hybrid03 High-Voltage battery.pdf 318KB Hybrid04 Engine.pdf 796KB Hybrid05 Chassis.pdf 345KB Hybrid06 Body Electrical.pdf 345KB Hybrid07 Appendix.pdf 32KB Technical Articles Toyota Series - Hybrid Diagnosis Hybrid11 Principles of Operation.pdf 274KB Hybrid12 Engine Control System.pdf 409KB Hybrid13 Fuel and EVAP System.pdf 691KB Hybrid14 Hybrid Vehicle Control System.pdf 714KB Hybrid15 HV Battery Control System.pdf 401KB Hybrid16 Brake System.pdf 190KB Hybrid17 Electric Power System.pdf 210KB Hybrid18 Other Systems.pdf 163KB Hybrid19 Appendix.pdf 84KB Technical Articles Toyota Series - Automatic Transmissions AT01 Fundamentals of Automatic Transmissions.pdf 144KB AT02 Torque Converter.pdf 478KB AT03 Simpson Planetary Gear Unit.pdf 380KB AT04 Gear Selection and Function.pdf 20KB AT05 Power Flow.pdf 1211KB AT06 Automatic Transmission Fluid.pdf 27KB AT07 Transmission Oil Pump.pdf 136KB AT08 valve Body Circuits.pdf 963KB AT09 A340H Transfer.pdf 60KB AT10 Electrical Control.pdf 308KB AT11 Transmission Check, Adjustments and Diagnosis.pdf 170KB AT12 Shift Lock System.pdf 186KB AT13 Appendix.pdf 1290KB Technical Articles Toyota Series - Automatic Transmissions AT21 Automatic Transmission Basics.pdf 1723KB AT22 U-Series Transaxle.pdf 947KB AT23 Valve Body Circuits.pdf 610KB AT24 Electronic Control System.Pdf 860KB AT25 Diagnostic Procedures.pdf 621KB AT26 Diagnostic Tester.pdf 485KB AT27 Remanufactured Transmission.pdf 186KB AT28 Appendix.pdf 339KB Technical Articles Toyota Series - Electrical (623 Training Course) Elec01 Essential Electrical Concepts.pdf 774KB Elec02 Electrical Circuits.pdf 1244KB Elec03 The Battery.pdf 785KB Elec04 The Starting System.pdf 1359KB Elec05 The Charging System.pdf 911KB Elec06 Introduction to Electrical Signals.pdf 388KB Elec07 Appendix.pdf 107KB Elec11 Electrical Circuit Theory.pdf 1100KB Elec12 Using the Electrical Wiring Diagram.pdf 1853KB Elec13 Electrical Diagnostic Tools.pdf 498KB Elec14 Six-Step Troubleshooting Plan.pdf 808KB Elec15 Diagnosing Body Electrical Problems.pdf 750KB Elec16 General Development of Multiplexing.pdf 388KB Elec17 Appendix.pdf 59KB Technical Articles Toyota Series - Brakes Brake01 Fundamental Principles.pdf 194KB Brake02 Master Cylinder.pdf 420KB Brake03 Drum Brakes.pdf 337KB Brake04 Disc Brakes.pdf 268KB Brake05 Brake Booster.pdf 608KB Brake06 Parking Brake.pdf 224KB Brake07 Brake Diagnosis.pdf 319KB Brake08 Hydraulic Control.pdf 553KB Brake09 Anti-Lock Brakes.pdf 834KB Brake10 ABS Diagnosis.pdf 327KB Brake11 Other ABS Actuators.pdf 1041KB Brake12 Traction Control System (TRAC).pdf 1357KB Brake13 Appendix.pdf 193KB Technical Articles Web Series - these are the online instruction modules from this site Control Devices.pdf 190KB Circuit Protection.pdf 683KB Understanding Relays with questions.pdf 550KB Battery Basics v1.1.pdf 531KB Battery Service v1.1.pdf 478KB

Mine was rotted around the perimeter, overall shape like a U. I peeled most of the rotten wood and then laid down fiberglass cloth, overlapping the "good" parts of the wood by about six inches. Mixed cups of resin and poured them over the cloth and spreading with squeegees made from old plastic milk cartons. The resin imgregnated the remaining rotten wood and congealed into a nice composite with the fiberglass cloth. I cut two plywood boards, about 20" in width and the length equal to the width of the cab. These were the new "floor" of the overcab area to compensate for any loss of strength in the rotted areas. The Warrior has two metal angle irons running next to the port and starboard bulkheads over the cab. The boards rest on these angles. I used to slide one board over the other to open up the driver's cab to the cabin. Eventually, I decided that I didn't mind driving with a "ceiling" as there was extra room for blankets, pillows and "stuff."

My sensor quit working on the black tank. Crawled underneath and found that the wire had broken off at the sensor contact. The position of the wire is exposed to rocks or anything else that gets flung at it by the tires. I confess that I do use Scott single ply bath tissue as I'm "economizing" (vice cheap) and originally did so on the advice of some more senior campers. I usually try to find campgrounds with sewage connections. Prior to departure, I jam a slipper between the toilet handle and the return point. Flush the toilet a few times after emptying the black tank. Empty the grey tank. Close grey tank. Flush a couple more times. By this time most of the hose has been flushed as well with fresh water and is ready for disconnection.

My experience is that the plug is a lot stronger than the aluminum threads. However it is disconcerting when the new plug won't tighten because the threads are no longer present. A helicoil kit is about $10 at an auto parts store. However, once the coil is inserted, the little tang of metal in the center tends to break off and fall inside the cylinder. A magnetic probe costs about $5. Handy for inserting into the cylinder and pulling out the missing metal tang. Helicoil has lasted three spark plug changes or about 150,000 miles so far.

A starter usually lasts me a little over a hundred thousand miles but the engines have never worn out on me. However, I attribute some of my starter problems to trying to make a failing battery last a little bit longer. Running a starter on low voltage means the current must increase to compensate: Current = Power / Voltage I now have a fix before fail attitude when it comes to batteries. Most other things: if it isn't broke, don't fix it.