fast freddy

Thanks for your help, I got it done in a hurry with the help of butyl tape, 3M marine adhesive sealant, and RV sealant, the final product didn't turn out to be to my satisfaction, but hey it is what it is. first trip was a success it did ok except my electric cooling fan conversion for the motor doesn't seem to be enough to cool it on the uphills. Still got 16+ miles a gallon which I think is awesome. Need to do a real good cleaning and take pics of final outcome which I will post, Thanks again. FF.

here is a pic of the corner, no butyl in the gap.

no couch on this one, it has a dinette, almost there, finished the wiring, propane connections, and most of the plumbing. Left the Genny out and covered the flooring, not sure on wether to use the space for inside storage and close the hole or make a cubby accessible from the outside. Linda the trim is there but the old butyl tape was only applied to the top surface, when I took it off I noticed there is exposed seam right on the corner, so was wondering if butyl tape should be covering the top with the edge hanging off the side to cover the gap, I will take a pic and post it. Thank You.

update on the progress, and a question on the outside trim, when you apply the butyl tape does it need to cover the side where there is a gap between the siding and the roof?

thank you! floor epoxy it is then!

yes I got a few rolls of butyl tape they also use it to seal the fender wells to the walls and the floor, there is more gooey stuff that looks like was applied to seal the edges, it looks like black tar on the outside but its silver, taking lots of elbow grease and solvents to get it off along with the butyl tape. finished all the insulation today and most of the plywood cut, should be done tomorrow, thinking of just wood staining the plywood with a lacquer coat or two on top, any experience or opinions on that?

this happened to me when I restored a jeep, then I did it with a boat, and now the RV, I just never learn! its a can of worms! once you open it you start finding more things to replace, so the update is the complete floor is being replaced including the aluminum sheets in the bottom since they just got jacked up when I took the insulation and the wood out.

decided to go with a solid plywood instead of the foam, started stripping the corner molding where a grey silicone like substance was gooped on, what is this crap? its gooey, sticky and don't want to come off, what chemical do you use to brake it up? here are some pics. also found small holes in the nose of the cabover near the bottom which look like oxidation that ate through the aluminum, anyone know the best way to repair those?

round 2: we were able to strip the whole interior and pull up the wood floor separating it from the foam (for the most part in one peace). Now what I wonder is should I replace the foam with a solid plywood all across the floor as well? is there really a big difference in the R value in an RV? when you take in the consideration of all the windows, windshield, and the steel frame surrounding the whole thing? here are some pics of the stripped interior which seems they never took in consideration of ease of removal on most of the interior, considering how they were put together. I forgot to take pics of the exposed floor, I will post that later. Any ideas or opinions on replacing the foam with plywood is appreciated.

So I got this 90 micro warrior after months of negotiation for 750 bucks, I was a toyota tech and know these trucks inside out and kind of knew what I was getting into. The Rv had not ran for 7-8 years, only 75k on it, and the interior looks a couple of years old other then stains on curtains and cushings. Off the back I knew there was some water damage but decided to start with the mechanical first, put in a new battery and sprayed some carb clean in the intake and Bammmm the thing ran, next I dropped the gas tank and HOLY S****** the thing was just covered with rust and I mean not just the bottom the whole inside of the darn thing was covered in rust. found a used one for 100 bucks complete off of a 4runner it was a perfect match minus the sending unit which I cleaned up and reused, 5 gallon of gas and there she went purrring like a cat, I am planning on a big trip in a month and don't need to brake down in middle of no where. Timing belt, water pump, pulleys, seals and belts were next, no problem so far! well except radiator was bad and the radiator guy said its junk, and to top it he said check your engine oil cooler, because he found oil in the radiator, so I did, and what do you know? the darn oil cooler is leaking! dealer only! and it's 574 BUCKS!! yikes call the guy I bought the tank from he said he had one and just gave it to me since he never sells those! really? cool! I took it and tested it to make sure it wasn't leaking. Now comes the water damage that was caused by broken front window and the shower drain pipe which had broken off the pan. I got the bottom of the cab over off and plan on just replacing it with a solid plywood instead, pulled almost everything out of the rv to replace the floor which feels like potato chips when I walk on it, now I find out what the floor is made out of and what a pain it will be separating the top layer that is still in good shape around the outer area. here is some pics.

are there options to replace the original holding tanks to larger ones?

I am picking up a 90 warrior that is not running, and is missing a generator, what kind of generator came with this RV? and where can I find owners manuals or any other manual for this. thanks for your help.