WME

What is your model #? that should tell you what you need to know.

Like you said ALL NA engines lose power at altitude. What happens is that the generator rated output is matched closely to the engine HP. If you lose HP then the engine won't pull full rpm at rated load and the generator loses RPM and voltage

If it works, then its good. I would have hard wired the batteries to the controller, with correct fuse. Mounted the controller inside so that it could be monitored. Then ran the wires out to the nice little cubbie hole you have and installed the quick disconnect there.

Oh well, I've done it on about 6 cars and it worked once.

FYI. My Escaper has a Onan 2800. I live around 5000 ft. A generator LOSES about 3.5% of its power rating for each 1000 ft above 500 ft. It loses about 1% per 10 degrees above 85 degree. So a 100 degree day at this altitude I'm down about 500 w. My 2800 would not reliable run the 13.5k AC. It would after I installed the starting cap booster. At my favorite 9000 ft fishing lake nope no deal. So based on this I would say you need at least 2500w for a stock 13.5k AC near sea level. On a vacaton here in the Rockies fer get about it with your under 3000w generator. i

Sorry for the weird post my tablet went off. Clocking... most converters are mounted to the flex plate with 3 or 4 bolts. Unless your converter is keyed to the flex plate by an offset bolt pattern, just un bolt it and rotate it to the next bolt hole. IE turn the converter 120 or 90 dgrees in relationship to the crankshaft.

Before that try clocking the converter

Oooh "special projects" ,in the USAF the pc term was "An opportunity to excel"

Get it weighed before the next phase of building. That way you will have an idea of how much the house can weigh before causing problems. It is much better to build lite, than to try and make it lite after its built.

If all else fails, put a breather on the front and T the PVC line into the brake vacuum line between the manifold and the 1 way valve on the vacuum line.

Here's food for thought https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gdvEFABF38k

A leaking cold start injector or a dirty sticking injector. About equal chances. When I replaced my old head I also did a HP cam and bored throttle body, so no real base line for MPG with the new injectors

No harm IF you kept up on the oil changes. The burned gases will mix with oil and form acids if not vented constantly. Do you have any of the left over parts? If not here is what you need .http://www.lceperformance.com/Weber-32-36-38-Carb-Linkage-Kit-p/1035021.htm http://www.lceperformance.com/EGR-Block-Plate-Kit-Cyl-Head-20R-22R-RE-RET-p/1016009.htm. Your remove EGR pipe and block off the opening. Then install fitting on intake and run rear hose to it.

Where does your power brake booster hook up to the intake?? Is there a plugged hole in the rear/side of one of the adapter plates?? For part just go to NAPA and get a new grommet, PCV valve and the molded rubber hose.

OK you need to start looking at what your have for a setup and not internet pics. You are just confusing yourself. You need a basic setup. The front vent is the fresh air inlet for the crankcase vent system. The rear vent goes to a vacuum port in the intake manifold. The fumes from the engine crankcase get burned in the engine. Your vent carb out the rear vent and it will make the engine compartment a mess. In your #11 post the pic has the brass fitting and large rubber hose for the correct What to do?? the second picture in your original post is the way to go is the simplest way to go. Plan B is to follow the orginal design. The front vent gets connect to the air cleaner with a bolt on hose fitting so your have clean air going into the engine. The rear vent goes to the fitting on the intake or carb base. Parts...For air cleaner http://www.ebay.com/itm/Air-Cleaner-Vent-Tube-Fitting-PCV-W-Bolts-And-Gasket-Fits-Most-14-Air-Cleaners-/121736926689?hash=item1c581615e1&vxp=mtr For simple system...http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-Air-Breather-Filter-Valve-Cover-Vent-12mm-Red-UNIVERSAL-/140920946067?hash=item20cf8afd93&vxp=mtr The PCV valve and hoses should be stock Toyota stuff This is really simple stuff

Second one is sorta correct. They put a breather cap on the first vent and a hose and PCV set up on the back vent. The PCV goes to the intake manifold or to a port in the base of the carb

The cake tin is a fuel baffle. It keeps the pump inlet covered when the fuel level is low and your going around corners and the fuel is sloshing back and forth

Check ignition timing.

OK go with the mechanical pump, install it and drive it. If its OK, Bingo you're done. If it runs rich get a pressure regulator and install it between the pump and carb.

first things first.. The mechincal fuel pump mounts on the top front of the engine. Do you have the fittings and enough hose??? http://www.yotatech.com/attachments/f114/90488d1358968741-help-please-questions-about-replacing-fuel-pump-1982-22r-22re_fuel-pump.jpg You need to install the electric fuel pump correctly so that means close to the tank, probably need to run new wires too.

"I bought a 22 mm socket for the nut that holds the steering wheel on. This week I hopefully I will get to O'Reilleys and get the steering wheel puller. The steering wheel is the last piece left of the old ugly UV damaged brown cab interior I have to deal with and I am thrilled to see it all go away. The new interior color scheme in the cab is black and grey. I will be glad to get the cab renovation done, its too much bending like a pretzel at awkward angles work for my taste. But I had to do it while the weather was nice as a lot of the time I had to be outside the doors reaching into it.' Lots of choices for aftermarket steering wheels. If you haven't got one some advice. If you have power steering then most any diameter will work, if you don't then stick to stock diameter. Get a real leather rim, not vinyl or wood. They don't work well in cold damp weather. Also use this chance to change the dish (depth) of the wheel to get a more comfortable driving position.

You can use larger wire to move it to where you have room. Maybe under wifies seat.

The Holley is a bit to much pressure for WEBER carb. Max pressure should be 3.5 psi. MORE important the pumps should be mounted with in 12" of the fuel tank so that they can push the fuel. Holley makes a good regulator 12-804 factory setting is 2.7 lbs and it is adjustable from 1-4 lbs

I guess get a ladder and look close. If the installer drilled through the roof the wires should go to a cabinet near the house battery. Just as a SWAG that is about a 20-25 w panel and maybe installed without a controller. But it HAS TO connect to the battery some where.

I could be wrong but I don't think a 94 Dolphin had "factory solar". Just look at the panel and follow the wires. A lot of installations the wires go down the refer vent if it had a roof vent. There should be a controller at the other end of the wires. The controller should be near the house battery. BTW what is the watt rating of the panel, or what are dimensions of the panel?