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ONAN 2800 MICROLITE INSTALLATION


sdboltdude

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I just picked up a Onan 2800 Microlite off of a 2005 motorhome. Only 50 hours of use.

The RV had an engine fire and was a loss. Generator is in great running order. Started right up.

I traded my Onan 2400 Homesite and an inflatable boat & 12 volt engine...

A good deal for me.  :first::first::first:

Now have to retro fit storage compartment & move battery box.

Has anyone installed one in a storage compartment? I know I will have to take the storage box out and make a new compartment to fit the genset...

What's the best way to get fuel? Tap into fuel line or tap into gas tank?

Steve..

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Fuel line is a no-no. Especially if you have FI.

Tank is the way to go. Pm me for more info. This is how i hooked up my microlite 2800.

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TY FRED

no fuel line

will install on tank ..

Fuel line is a no-no. Especially if you have FI.
Tank is the way to go. Pm me for more info. This is how i hooked up my microlite 2800.

helps if I read instructions......

Edited by sdboltdude
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I need 2.8 microlite "kv" genset compartment measurements so I can get a good idea what I need to build/buy thinking of a looking in junkyard for a rv compartment that would be a good TIGHT fit...

if anyone could give me their measurements maybe a pic to go along (just to see how tight the genset sets)

thanks Steve

I do have the pdf on install and genset measurements ..would still like to see what my options are.....

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Don't forget to leave plenty of room for air circulation. A louvered door by the front is a must do.

Your genset is air cooled.

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yes I will have air intake at the door

also maybe underneath unit..rv already has a air intake underneath witch is closed off right now(thinking this was for a genset. I could be wrong..

Don't forget to leave plenty of room for air circulation. A louvered door by the front is a must do.
Your genset is air cooled.

spec sheet says I only need 1/2inch for air except 1inch for air flow under unit...

my measurements are 1.5inch or more then specs..

how did you build yours FRED? what your measurements ?

You mean like this stuff that is meant to put in generator and engine compartments? It needs to be fire retardant foam in that location.

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=9345

thanks Karin very good point we where going to use home depot 1" foam that's we used for cab-over model..

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how did you build yours FRED? what your measurements ?

Mine sits on the back platform deck, so no problem with air.

Your fan sits on the left of the unit. The under cover area has foam insulating strips that seal the unit to allow cooling air to stay inside. Be sure these are correctly positioned when you put the top back on.

The primary air intake is on the left front of the unit and appears as a vertical grill. You also have a smaller two hole opening directly below this grill. These must be open for good airflow. Be sure your access plate is also securely fastened as this helps to keep cool air inside.

My personal opinion is to leave as much open space as you can around the unit.

The bottom clearance is also important. There are holes drilled in it to allow the heated air to escape.

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how did you build yours FRED? what your measurements ?

Mine sits on the back platform deck, so no problem with air.

Your fan sits on the left of the unit. The under cover area has foam insulating strips that seal the unit to allow cooling air to stay inside. Be sure these are correctly positioned when you put the top back on.

primary air intake is on the left front of the unit and appears as a vertical grill. You also have a smaller two hole opening directly below this grill. These must be open for good airflow. Be sure your access plate is also securely fastened as this helps to keep cool air inside.

My personal opinion is to leave as much open space as you can around the unit.

The bottom clearance is also important. There are holes drilled in it to allow the heated air to escape.

The back might be a good spot...will keep that as a option...

That insulating foam from Home Depot will dissolve if gasoline gets on it.

You can very likely use the products they make for insulating the firewalls on the engine compartments of cars. That will be easy to find at the auto parts stores. It will also be sound dampening. Because it will have a metal foil surface it will reflect the radiant heat which makes for pretty good insulation. Big advantage it does not take up as much space!

You could/should line your compartment with sheet metal for added fire protection. Just like having a steel door between your house and the garage, every little bit of extra time to grab that fire extinguisher helps. They make fire stop caulking and spray foam, you can get it a electrical supply stores. Or you could build your compartment with sheet metal instead of making a plywood box and lining it.

With a metal lined box that has firewall insulation inside the box you could also put the Home Depot foam on the backside of the box facing the motor home interior. That way that foam is not exposed to gasoline or excessive heat.

..will be sheet metal box l!!

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My Onan sits on the bumper on my Tiger. Was factory installed there. I have also seen them installed on a couple of other small rv's like the Rialta with the Onan underneath install kit. No box involved. Just sits in the open underneath the frame with only the smallest of doors for access to the starter button and fuses. Might have been some shielding between the coach and the install but nothing I could see.

Linda S

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My Onan sits on the bumper on my Tiger. Was factory installed there. I have also seen them installed on a couple of other small rv's like the Rialta with the Onan underneath install kit. No box involved. Just sits in the open underneath the frame with only the smallest of doors for access to the starter button and fuses. Might have been some shielding between the coach and the install but nothing I could see.

Linda S

can I see a pic of your gen box

how do they support it on bumper?

ty steve

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hey there,

So I have purchase sdboltdude's generator and am going to attempt to install it it my 1986 Dolphin. So I cleared out my compartment today and saw this sign say " If Generator is installed add extra leafsprings. I am not too concerned about the extra weight but I was hoping someone could share a picture of the generator in their Dolphin. I was going to remove the box that is the storage compartment to allow maximum air flow but now I'm concerned that if I remove the box it will weaken the strength of the wall of the motorhome? Can I just seal the box to the house, put in some sheet metal and insulation and drill some holes in the bottom of the box? Then mount with the underfloor kit and be safe? Any help would be appreciated.

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All the undermount Onan's I have seen had no floor in the compartment at all. Looking up from beneath the coach you can see the bottom of the generator.It weighs about 125 lbs so less then putting water in your holding tank. I have a Kohler installed on my Sunrader and have no extra leaf springs on the side. Equalizing with the air bag system should be fine. Funny I have never seen that tag on anyones rig before. Derek's right you need a door with venting and certainly would help to seal the compartment from the inside.

Linda S

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you could build up storage box and cut bottom out

your storage compartment sounds like it is already beefed up for generator

if taking box out you might get lucky with finding some good framing support to build enclosure

if generator fits inside box drill out exhaust & spark plug hole and drill holes in door for air intake.

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Turns out that the storage box was just a tad too small. I spent the day removing the old storage and rebuilding the generator compartment. I had some birch ply and angle aluminum laying around so the compartment came out nice. Hopefully I will get the generator mounted tomorrow after I pick up some odds and ends. I was looking at putting in a 3 way automatic transfer switch but at about $200 I will just put in a outlet from the genny that I can plug the converter into.

So I still need vents in the door even with the bottom half of the generator completely open?

p.s. I don't have air bags but think it will be fine

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Edited by rigger camper
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ATS 301, 30 amp transfer switch, $70 Ebay RV section

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So I got a little further today. The generator is bolted up and wired up. I'm waiting for my junction block and remote start in the mail. Also need to get fuel to it but I think I have it figured out. Oh, and some vent holes in the door.

Here is a link to the auto transfer switch I was looking at

http://www.amazon.com/Rapid-Mobile-Automatic-Transfer-Switch/dp/B000GHHW8A

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