vrocrider Posted April 1, 2017 Share Posted April 1, 2017 Rebuilding overhang area on Warrior. Replacing some of the wood supports that go from side to side. What kind of wood & what are dimensions? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hunkaman Posted April 2, 2017 Share Posted April 2, 2017 you may need to get the dimensions from original after demo. not totally sure what "wood supports" you are referring to. some pics may help. type of wood? if structural support dimension lumber, i am just guessing the original was pine. if that is the case, pine replacements should work, or if you think treated is worth the extra cost (not much) then maybe use it. good luck with it. joe from dover Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanAatTheCape Posted April 2, 2017 Share Posted April 2, 2017 might want to research weight of various woods.. I would not use pressure treated - I would not want to be in closed box with carcinogenic wood that was out-gasing into that box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjrbus Posted April 2, 2017 Share Posted April 2, 2017 Pressure treated as noted is the wrong wood to use! White oak does well for this type of project. The dry rot that destroys the wood is actually a fungus so any wood can be used if treated with a fungicide. If the manufacturers had spent $2 on each unit we might not have this issue. A million and 7 articles on the net pertaining to wood rot. do a bit of searching. http://alsnetbiz.com/homeimprovement/homemade.html Only my opinion, not to be misconstrued as professional or expert advice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted April 2, 2017 Share Posted April 2, 2017 I've still got a gallon of creosote hidden in my basement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hunkaman Posted April 2, 2017 Share Posted April 2, 2017 ok, i stand corrected, treated probably NOT a good choice. i know several years ago the formula (chemicals) were changed in the process to produce "treated" lumber for the reasons of toxicity and health related issues due to exposure. have no proof that it is entirely harmless to ones health now, so not a good choice. joe from dover. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjrbus Posted April 2, 2017 Share Posted April 2, 2017 I would not use treated because it is not stable due to moisture content. Lumber marked KDAT is Kiln Dried After Treatment. But most are not going to find that on the rack at HD or Manards. I used a piece of treated on my door, but it had sat around drying for a couple years and was not going to warp any worse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hunkaman Posted April 2, 2017 Share Posted April 2, 2017 you can use a moisture meter to find the moisture content of any piece of wood. joe from dover. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjrbus Posted April 2, 2017 Share Posted April 2, 2017 Never checked moister on PT lumber but is likely about 70% : ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted April 2, 2017 Share Posted April 2, 2017 Here's my thought: Since it's you that are doing the repairs, use pretty much anything. Why? Because as long as you own it, I'm sure you're going to be more diligent keeping it leak-free so that you don't have to do it again. So 2, 5 or 10 years down the road when you decide to sell, it'll still be rot free. After you sell it, who cares if the new owner doesn't continue your good practices? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vrocrider Posted April 3, 2017 Author Share Posted April 3, 2017 Thinking white oak or douglas fir on wood species. Should I be concerned on ability of fasteners to penetrate oak? I know I could drill holes but too much work. Thoughts? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted April 3, 2017 Share Posted April 3, 2017 I have not had good luck screwing oak together with no pilot holes. Very hard wood that likes to crack. Never had to redo a motorhome frame but I have built some stuff. Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjrbus Posted April 4, 2017 Share Posted April 4, 2017 20 hours ago, vrocrider said: Thinking white oak or douglas fir on wood species. Should I be concerned on ability of fasteners to penetrate oak? I know I could drill holes but too much work. Thoughts? Thanks. If you do not want to predrill the oak use another wood. Without pilot holes oak not only cracks easy but can break cheap screws! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted April 4, 2017 Share Posted April 4, 2017 (edited) Pine lasted 25+ years, you plan on keeping it after the rebuild that long?? If so the use something like this to pretreat the wood. http://sealitgreen.com/product/xtreme-marine-wood-sealer-1-gallon/ Edited April 4, 2017 by WME Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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