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Just Bought An 84 Sunrader


wanderlost

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Hi im new to the forums here and I just bought a 1984 Toyota Sunrader for 300 bucks. Its a little rough around the edges but I plan on restoring it. It is a rear entry model. I saw that the whole back panel opens like a hatch back, does anyone know how to open this? Also is there anything I need to look out for? How do I tell what model it is? And where should I start with my restoration? I can take some pictures tomorrow.

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Welcome aboard. Ask all the questions you want, there are many very knowledgable people on the site. Post a picture of your new to you RV so that we can all see what you have.

Bob

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Is there a plate or sticker attached to the drivers side door jamb? That would have a date on it. Also check the vin plate in the window. Less than 17 digits means it's a 1980 or older. Like I said though they stopped making these models in 78

Linda S

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The 4 headlights make it an early production 1979 or 1978 or older.

Toyota used the 1978 c&c until June of 1979.

There is an I.D. plate on the inner fender drivers side. It should start with the letters RN....,.....

I.e. RN28......... would be a 1978. RN27 would be a 1977.... etc.

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After looking closer at your pictures, this is definitely a project vehicle.

The body is showing major rust issues. I would carefully inspect the frame rails for rot. Toyota used thin gage steel for their frames during these years. Also pull the carpet in the cab and check the floor pans. I'm sure there's not a lot of steel there.

Finally, you appear to have the "foolie" axle.

Good luck. Fred

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Found a tag on the side. It is a 1978. The cab is pretty rusty and the frame has allot of serious surface rust. The cover for one of the roof vents is completely dry rotted. Im uploading a video to YouTube of the rust. It looks like its gonna be to much trouble to fix. Does anybody have any idea of what would be involved to swap the shell over to another truck?

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What shape is it in?

I never got to see it. The owner had the auto trans blow in Indiana and wanted to get rid of it quick. I was just responding to his email to me when it got sold. Needs work I'm sure beside the trans. Regardless - $50 sounds like a bargain. I was willing to pay at least a couple of hundred bucks regardless of what it looked like. Ask the guy in Niles, MI that bought it. Maybe he'll post some photos.

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Besides all the electrical stuff which probably needs redoing anyway, there are supposedly only 4 big bolts holding that shell to the frame. It's been done before by a few people.

Linda S

Just curious but has anyone transplanted the shell onto something other than a toy like a dodge?

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Besides all the electrical stuff which probably needs redoing anyway, there are supposedly only 4 big bolts holding that shell to the frame. It's been done before by a few people.

Linda S

Linda,

I remember you suggesting the transplant as an option for my rotting 90 winni.

what wheel base do the older shells fit?

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Well there was Chinook shell for sale in Denver not long ago installed on an F250 diesel.

Here's a Sunrader camper on a Silverado

http://www.drivetheamericas.com/sites/default/files/Salt%20Hotel%20Bolivia.jpg

This one is a big Toyota Odyssey camper on an F250 diesel

can't find any other Sunraders but I bet they are out there. It can be done

I've seen Steve's conversion he did. That's Steve the other owner of this site.

A guy in New York did a frame off conversion to a 3.4 4x4 Toyota complete with frame extensions. That one is the nicest I've seen.

Considering the high cost of the molded fiberglass camper like the Bigfoot and the Northern Lite seems like a Sunrader shell is a very neat alternative. Sunrader truck camper do come up every once and a while too. Some fit full sized trucks and some are for the Toyota sized.

Linda S

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Linda,

I remember you suggesting the transplant as an option for my rotting 90 winni.

what wheel base do the older shells fit?

Wheel base measurement is not the key factor. It is the distance from the rear of the truck cab to the centerline of the rear axle. Different make cabs differ. Just went through this with a Toyota Chinook. In that case, a few years of standard cab long-bed Chevy S10s and Ford Rangers lined up.

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Linda,

I remember you suggesting the transplant as an option for my rotting 90 winni.

what wheel base do the older shells fit?

Well it of course depends on what truck it was on to begin with. A 90 Winnie would have been built on a extra long wheel base of 137 inches. You only going to find a wheel base that long on a utility truck or another motorhome. My shorty Sunrader has a 112 inch wheel base and that fits any regular cab long bed Toyota truck. For other brands I don't know you would have to have the wheel base info. The older Sunrader like Wanderlost bought was built on a long bed with a wheel base of 110 inches. Pretty close to 112. Bet it would fit without major alterations. Rear wheel well will be a little off.

Linda S

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Wheel base measurement is not the key factor. It is the distance from the rear of the truck cab to the centerline of the rear axle. Different make cabs differ. Just went through this with a Toyota Chinook. In that case, a few years of standard cab long-bed Chevy S10s and Ford Rangers lined up.

Yes that distance is the most important. My Nissan Sunrader has a wheel base of 116 inches but a much roomier cab. The best truck if your tall. With the seat all the way back I can't even touch the gas pedal. Rear wheels still lined up without any frame changes

Linda S

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I completely cleaned out my rig yesterday and found that with the seat all the way back it is still cramped for me (im 6'2") I have the frame from a 1984 Nissan King Cab 4x4. The body was rusted out so I tore it off but the frame is rust free. Does anyone think it would be a bad idea to put the sunrader shell on this frame and bolt the toyota transmission to the Nissan transfer case, fabricate some mounts for the 20r, and find a cab that fits?

Edit: The wheel base of the Nissan and the Sunrader are both 112".

From the back of the cab to the center of the axle on the Sunrader is 42"

From the center of the axle to the end of the shell of the sunrader is 54"

If I put a single cab on the Nissan frame the distance from the center of the axle to the back of the cab would be 42"

From the center of the axle to the end of the frame on the Nissan is 54"

Edited by wanderlost
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Sounds like a lot of work.

Find a good cab and chassis that will work and sell the Nissan frame to recoup some of your expenses.

Or, list the shell for sale, and wait for a better complete rig to come along.

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From the back of the cab to the center of the axle on the Sunrader is 42"

2001 Ford Ranger truck with 2WD and 125” wheelbase has 37.7” from rear of cab to center of rear wheels. 2 1/2" difference which is close enough.

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I would be in heaven if my Sunrader was on a 2001 Ford Ranger. I love my Explorer, get great mileage and it just runs and runs. I have had to put way more money in my Toyota and they had the same miles on them when I bought them.Linda S

My dad has a 2008 Ford Ranger and it has loads of power but gets terrible gas milage. Its about the same as our 2011 F 150.

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My Explorer is a 2wd not a 4x4. Makes a huge difference in mileage. It also has the 4.0 V6. Plenty of power there. I get 20mpg easy now but it has almost 160,000 miles on it. When it was newer I could get up to 24mpg. Automatic too so manual would be better still. I have heard that the newer models are not so dependable

Linda S

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My dad has a 2008 Ford Ranger and it has loads of power but gets terrible gas milage. Its about the same as our 2011 F 150.

I have the 2008 Ranger 2X2 with the 3.0 V6. Great truck, but terrible MPG. I do not record nor keep tract of MPG but this one uses so much gas it is hard not to notice. I would have been better off with the F150. So as not to be off topic, I use it to get parts for my Toy : )

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Four-cylinder Rangers get great gas mileage. Goes down and down with V6s as they get bigger. I was a "on the road or in the woods" mechanic for a John Deere dealer from mid 70s to early 90s. I started out with a 4WD diesel International Scout. Then when Ford came out with the new Ranger - we bought a new one every couple of years. All had four-bangers. First one had a 2 liter with carb. Second one had a 2 liter with fuel injection. Both got amazing mileage and took an incredible beating. I hated them due to the small engines and tried to blow them up. Never happened. I really wanted a new Ford F350 diesel for a service and finally got one around 1990.

My mother-in-law is a retired Ford engineer and gets a new AWD Escape every few years. Her latest is a 2010 with a 2.5 liter four cylinder. We took it for a trip loaded with stuff and 5 people plus a fat dog. I drove it around 70 MPH the whole way and got 29 MPG on the trip.

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