Part # For Alternator With Higher Output

[shibs]

I have a 90 rwd toyo.

I have seen mention of a direct fit higher output alternator. I think it was a chevy alternator. Can someone please post the part # for the alternator.

[zero]

I have a 90 rwd toyo.

I have seen mention of a direct fit higher output alternator. I think it was a chevy alternator. Can someone please post the part # for the alternator.

There are old-tech Delco alternators being sold to stick on Toyota trucks from the 80s-90s. Those are Delco 10SI and 12SI alternators. They are being cloned in China and available all over the place, brand new, for $60-$70. Chevy used them late 1960s to mid 80s. So you need a Delco 10SI or a 12SI, and a bracket kit to adapt to your Toyota (about $45).

If you want high output at low engine speeds, a Delco 10SI (most common) is not going to do the job. 12SI is better, and CS series better yet. Denso probably the best.

When you look at kits with Delco SI alternators - if they have metal fans they are 10SIs. If they have plastic fans they are 12SIs.

Also many places selling complete kits with an old-tech Delco or newer (and better) Denso to change over.

There are also places selling bigger Nippon Denso alternators to fit the 80s-90s Toyota trucks. They cost more money. Denso is a division of Toyota. The OEM 45 amp or OEM 60 amp alternators that these Toyotas came with new are also Densos.

[zero]

Here's the info on the Delco CS series. I don't want to start any arguments here - but here I go anyway. I've discussed this on another Toyota forum and it really ticked a few "experts" off. Sorry. I used to repair these things and they ARE what they ARE.

Most so-called "upgrade" kits come with cheap Delco 10SI alternators. They are very popular with people wanting to add alternators to just about anything. By today's standards they are low tech and hardly what I'd call an upgrade on a 80s-90s Toyota. They are popular because they were a "dime a dozen" for years with junkyards full of scrapped GMs from the 60s-80s. They are also very easy to work on. That because the have only one ball bearing instead of two like a Denso and therefore come apart easy with no puller needed. You can take one all apart with one wrench and no desoldering needed. Delco SIs are large for the output they provide.

12SI has the same general design but was an improvement (not by much though).

Then late 80s - the Delco SI was replaced with the CS series. A big improvement. High output especially at low engine speeds and twin ball bearings like an OEM Denso. CS144 is the one most people want for high amps IF a Delco is wanted. New 120-200 amp CS144s can be found for $100 if you shop carefully.

Many newer Chevys started using Densos instead of Delcos.

[shibs]

JD,

Step 1: get CS144

will this one do?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-Delco-Remanufactured-Alternator-321-367-10463069-CS144-/221626047476

Step 2: get adapter plate for toyo

this one?

http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/toyota-gm-alternator-bracket.html

Does the GM alternator have the belt pulley as the Toyo?

As usual, thanks a bunch Sir!

[zero]

JD,

Step 1: get CS144

will this one do?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-Delco-Remanufactured-Alternator-321-367-10463069-CS144-/221626047476

Step 2: get adapter plate for toyo

this one?

http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/toyota-gm-alternator-bracket.html

Does the GM alternator have the belt pulley as the Toyo?

As usual, thanks a bunch Sir!

I've never seen a CS-144 that came OEM with a V-belt pulley. Just a ribbed one . I'm not sure what engine you have or what belt drive. The shaft diameter of the Delco CS-144 is the same as the older SI series - so pulleys are easy to swap on there.

As to that bracket you linked to? I'd ask the person selling it and verify it will accommodate a Delco CS series. It probably does but that bracket - going by the "one wire alternator" description is probably being sold for a Delco 10SI or 12SI series. When someone says "one wire" it usually means they bought a $10 aftermarket self-excite regulator and stuck it into a Delco SI.

[Maineah]

Your charge light most likely won't work with the Delco and if it's a one wire it definitely won't work. If you use the older style Delco you will need to wire the "ign" wire from the Denso to the #2 pin of the Delco and the # 1 pin to the B+. The Delco's are big and the mounting is different. There is not a shot of driving a 100+ amp alt. with a 1/2" V belt without it slipping. Why do you think you need a bigger alternator?

[zero]

Charge light in the Toyota will work fine with the alternator he's looking at (Delco CS-144). All is needed is the correct pigtail-harness for $7 that is made for an "idiot light" and the CS-144. Belt drive is a different issue. I assume he wants the bigger alternator for more amps at low engine speeds, not high max amps. The CS-144 can charge 50 amps at engine idle speed. CS-144 comes OEM with a 6 ribbed pulley made for a grooved flat-belt. It MUST have that or two V-belts if it's ever going to make 140 amps. 50 amps at engine idle though is no problem with a single 1/2" belt.

[zero]

Here are a few of the harness pigtails available for installing a Delco CS series on anything. They are often on Ebay for $5- $7 each.

[Maineah]

That is correct but it does not make the Toyota charge light work just the makes the alternator charge with out the light input to the regulator. Delco used two methods of exciting the alt, the light, or a ign feed through a resistor for their vehicles that had a volt meter. The one wire alternator will work with only a B+ connection there is no provision for a light no matter what you put it on they were intended for the likes of old tractors, hot rods etc. One way out would be to install standard volt meter and forget the light if it is not some thing you need. Just went through this with a Piston Bully that we needed a charge light on, it had a one wire alt. on it the only way to make the light work was to replace the regulator add the diode trio and a ballast resistor then excite the regulator with the charge light. Toyota MH used relays to turn the charge light on they do not have enough coil resistance to be used as an exciter.

[zero]

That is correct but it does not make the Toyota charge light work just the makes the alternator charge with out the light input to the regulator. Delco used two methods of exciting the alt, the light, or a ign feed through a resistor for their vehicles that had a volt meter. The one wire alternator will work with only a B+ connection there is no provision for a light no matter what you put it on they were intended for the likes of old tractors, hot rods etc. One way out would be to install standard volt meter and forget the light if it is not some thing you need. Just went through this with a Piston Bully that we needed a charge light on, it had a one wire alt. on it the only way to make the light work was to replace the regulator add the diode trio and a ballast resistor then excite the regulator with the charge light. Toyota MH used relays to turn the charge light on they do not have enough coil resistance to be used as an exciter.

Delco sold charge-light relays back when the SI series was current -for use in certain applications where an "idiot" light could be hooked by conventional means. I'm not sure if Delco ever offered the 1-wire, self-excite regulators OEM. All the ones I've installed were $10 each and aftermarket.

The SIs could get field current with no resistor or charge-light or diode by using an ignition switch with two isolated power posts - e.g. IGN and ACC. That way field current could be supplied and the vehicle would still shut off when the key was turned off.

Got a Piston Bully sitting down the road from me right now. Being used as a snowmobile trail groomer. The name caught my attention but don't claim to know anything about the machine except it looks expensive.

[shibs]

I have a 90 winni, which is probably an 89 chassis, it is a v6.

I have no idea what pulley I have, I going down to storage this weekend to cover the camper up with my handy dandy home made cover out of tyvec, I will take a pic of the pulley then.

[Maineah]

The # 2 pin on the Delco regulator is powered by either the charge light or an ign feed through a resistor. As soon as the key is on the light lights because it sees the alt. as a ground and provides a + feed to the alt regulator. Once the charge cycle is completed the #2 pin no longer provides a ground and the light goes out. The feed through the bulb is the command for the regulator to excite the field once the key is turn off the regulator turns off the field circuit that is the only thing that needs to be turn off to avoid killing the battery. There is no need to turn off the alt. to stop the engine from running as there is no feedback through the wiring. Delco redesigned the one wire charging circuit to be used as a fits all ideal it could be used on anything with no wiring changes the basic alt is exactly the same inside, same frame same field rotor same stator and diodes the regulator is different and there is no diode trio or ballast resistor. Yeah we have 4 groomers, one Piston Bully, 3 Thiokol’s I think the Piston Bully is sold. One Thiokol is a parts monster and the other two are just maintenance nightmares they are mid 1970’s with Ford 6 cylinders gas engines.

[zero]

There is no need to turn off the alt. to stop the engine from running as there is no feedback through the wiring.

I got lost. I don't know which alternator, which wiring scheme, and which vehicle it's to go in (in the context of engine run-on).. Delco SI series alternators when wired in conventional three-wire fashion certainly have a feed-back problem that prevents engine shut-off when done wrong. Especially with diesels. The proper resistor or 5-10 amp diode in the field circuit easily prevents that. So does wiring to an ignition switch with two power poles that are isolated when turned off. A direct wire from the IGN pole to the alternator field results in an alternator that charges fine, but when you try to shut the engine off that field wire backfeeds to the ignition coil or diesel-shutoff-solenoid. Some of the diesel solenoids will not shut down until voltage drops below 3 volts. Subsequently some resistors used in the field circuit are not enough for some diesel apps. Obviously none of this applies to self-excite regulators and one-wire hook-ups. They get their excite current the "old fashioned" way - they make it on their own and need high RPMs to do it.

[shibs]

I got lost. I don't know which alternator, which wiring scheme, and which vehicle it's to go in (in the context of engine run-on).. Delco SI series alternators when wired in conventional three-wire fashion certainly have a feed-back problem that prevents engine shut-off when done wrong. Especially with diesels. The proper resistor or 5-10 amp diode in the field circuit easily prevents that. So does wiring to an ignition switch with two power poles that are isolated when turned off. A direct wire from the IGN pole to the alternator field results in an alternator that charges fine, but when you try to shut the engine off that field wire backfeeds to the ignition coil or diesel-shutoff-solenoid. Some of the diesel solenoids will not shut down until voltage drops below 3 volts. Subsequently some resistors used in the field circuit are not enough for some diesel apps. Obviously none of this applies to self-excite regulators and one-wire hook-ups. They get their excite current the "old fashioned" way - they make it on their own and need high RPMs to do it.

Sorry, dumb question...

I just read up on the 3 wire setup for alternator,

So, the delco I posted previously will still work for me? plug and play with the adapter and wire harness adapter?

[zero]

I just read up on the 3 wire setup for alternator,

So, the delco I posted previously will still work for me? plug and play with the adapter and wire harness adapter?

I've never come across anyone selling a complete "plug and play" kit to put a CS144 Delco in an older Toyota. I HAVE seen such kits for the Delco 10 and 12SI alternators that I don't regard as any great upgrade.

Here is one write-up of many from a guy that put a CS-144 in his 4-Runner.

[Maineah]

You can make the alternator work you can't just plug in the Toyota wiring. In your case the Delco one wire would be all you need because the charge light will not work any way. Just connect the large white and red B+ wire to the one wire and fire it up. If you have a need to know the charge rate a volt meter is all you would need. You can make any alt work as long as you can bolt it to the engine and come up with a belt to drive it. The question is how involved do you want to get?

[Derek up North]

http://www.egauges.com/100-Amps-Ammeter-2-1-16-p/a2c53210974-s.htm

[zero]

One-wire alternator does not do the job properly. If it was that easy, the auto-companies would do it and save a few cents on wiring. An alternator needs a battery-voltage-sensing wire that gets attached very close, or directly TO the battery. That is, it "needs" it to do the job correctly. That feature is eliminated when an alternator is converted to a "one-wire" set-up. A one-wire setup cheats and senses alternator output voltage instead of battery voltage and the two are not the same.

The OEM Denso alternator that came on Toyotas new, as well as the GM Delcos - used battery voltage sensing wires.

The other down-side to the one-wire setup is the difficulty the alternator has getting "started." I've seen tractors sit and run for a full hour with no alternator charge at all because the engine never got revved up high enough to get the alternator to start charging. The one-wire setup needs very high RPMs at first, and then it feeds itself can charge fine at normal speeds.

Granted that none of this may matter to someone who just wants more alternator power. Not features I'd want with what was being considered an "upgrade."

As to the Toyota charge light? I've hooked up several with the OEM Toyota wiring to three-wire Delco alternators. Is it worth the bother? That's up to the individual. I like having a charge "idiot" light and a voltmeter. I like amp-meters too but they are a pain to hook up unless they are shunt-wired versions.

All that is needed to hook the Toyota "no charge" light to the Delco is a voltage-sensing, normally closed relay that sends a ground signal to the light when charge voltage drops below 13 volts. They can be had for around $20.

The Delco CS144 is a good alternator for someone who is more concerned about getting 50 amps at engine idle speed instead of 120 amps at max output.

There is also a bolt-in replacement 80 amp alternator from Denso that was used in some high-end cars like 1989-90 Supras - that bolts right into a truck.

Note that I installled two Delco CS-144s in Toyotas but both mine were on four-cylinder engines. 20R and a 22RE. I've never owned or messed with a V6 which I believe has a different belt drive.

[Vanman]

Woundn't it be easier to put a different pulley on the stock alternator? How much could you change the size without screwing something else up and still get more idle charging amps?

I ask because I think someone here has already done that on a 6, which has a ribbed flat belt.

[zero]

Woundn't it be easier to put a different pulley on the stock alternator? How much could you change the size without screwing something else up and still get more idle charging amps?

I ask because I think someone here has already done that on a 6, which has a ribbed flat belt.

The problem is the loss of belt traction. I think the V6 uses a 4 rib belt. With an OEM Denso 60 amp alternator that belt is already at the max when it comes to traction.

A higher output Denso alternator like a 80 amp comes with a 5 rib belt drive. 120 amp alternators come with 6 rib belt drives.

To make an alternator put out anything it has to turn at least 1600 RPM. So at engine idle speed of 800, there has to be at least a 2 to 1 ratio between the crank pulley and the alternator pulley. 3 to 1 is more common. So when the engine idles at 800 RPM the alternator is turning 2400 RPM. When a stock Denso turns 2400 RPM it has a max output around 30 amps. To get more, you'd have to stick a smaller diameter pulley on it and small means less belt-surface area. Also means the alternator spins faster then designed when the engine spins faster.

Race cars and farm tractors do the opposite. They often use over-size pulleys that slow the alternator down.

One reason why some people choose the Delco CS-144 , 120 amp alternator is because it can make 50 amps at engine idle speed and spinning at 2400 RPM.

Many Denso alternators do it too. My Dodge GrandCaravan has a Denso 150 amp alternator that makes 60 amps at engine idle speed. If I ever need to stick a large alternator in a Toyota again - I might use a big Denso instead of a Delco. Why? They are being mass produced in China and a cheap. I bought a brand new 150 amp alternator for $85. Just needs a $15 regulator added. Many newer alternators have built-in regulators anymore. The computers have a chip in them that take care of that. It's easy to buy a $15 regulator and use the alternator in anything.

[shibs]

Gentlemen,

I had to read the posts a few times and it makes sense (danke!)

My need is a little bit more amp at idle, I park in DNR lots where there is no hook ups when we go out to fish for salmon/steelhead.

Revised implementation:

1. get a denso reman alternator for 90s supra with part # 210-0158

like this one

http://www.amazon.com/Denso-210-0158-Remanufactured-Alternator/dp/B000C5WBLE

$146 is a good price?

2a. get a big denso + external voltage regulator, ( like this one?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DODGE-CARAVAN-98-00-PLYMOUTH-VOYAGER-98-00-DENSO-130AMP-ALTERNATOR-13765-/301409806000

)

2b. or get a cs144 delco + adapter + wire adapter + Volt sensing relay (as mentioned above)

[zero]

Here's more alternator info then the average person probably cares to see. But digital ink is cheap. Info on various outputs at low speeds of alternator. How to wire in a charge-light with a Delco one-wire setup. How to choose the right pulley, etc. This is for mostly older stuff before year 2000. I've lost track of the newer alternators and can't even tell who really makes them. GM has been using big Densos as far as I can tell. The AD244 is the newer workshorse. Once the "Delphi" name gets used, I get lost. I've heard that just about every alternator in the world now, as used on cars and small trucks, is made by Bosch, Denso, or some places in China.

Note that most sellers or people hyping up "upgrades" with Delcos into Toyotas are using Delco 10SIs or 12SI alternators from the 60s-80s. The CS144 tha the poster was asking about here came out later and was used on high-end cars like Cadillacs. It it known for high-output at low speed and was one of the best in its time (1986-1999).

[Maineah]

Once the one wire Delco reaches the charge rate rpm it starts to charge and will continue to until the engine stops. This is not completely electrical the residual magnetism in the fields iron core needs the rpm to produce enough voltage to excite the field circuit the regulator senses B+ voltage. The manufactures do not use them because they need them to do things like light warning lights that are integrated with other electrical management systems. When something fails in an alternator it stops charging and the warning light goes on if a belt breaks it stops charging, a voltage sensing circuit would not react until the system voltage dropped below a certain point and perhaps overheated an engine. This is why they use regulator warning lights. The ideal behind larger pulleys dates back to generators, they could not stand the higher RPM at operating speed because the centrifugal force would pull the windings apart. Interesting failure the results look like a rat had built a nest inside. This of course is why they did not charge at idle speed. You could indeed put a smaller pulley on an alt. to increase its low RPM charging rate but the pulley size is also a mechanical design factor one being over driving the alt. at high RPM the other being the ability of the belt to drive it.

[zero]

The manufactures do not use them because they need them to do things like light warning lights that are integrated with other electrical management systems. When something fails in an alternator it stops charging and the warning light goes on if a belt breaks it stops charging, a voltage sensing circuit would not react until the system voltage dropped below a certain point and perhaps overheated an engine.

One-wire setups do not have the ability to accurately sense battery voltage. That is a BIG reason why they are usually not used on OEM setups. They sense voltage at the alternator output instead that can often be 1/2 volt higher then what's at the battery. Thus the reason for the long battery volt sensing circuit that OEM Delcos use on GMs and OEM Densos use on Toyotas. Not a big deal; when the alternator is very close to the battery or batteries. IS a bigger deal as that distance grows.

In regard to big pulleys. Many tractor companies still use them to increase longevity of the alternators and added belt traction. The less they turn, the longer they might last. When John Deere started using Motorola, Bosch, and Delco alternators - they chose not to use the 2 1/4" pulleys like used on cars and used 3" to 3 1/2" pulleys instead. The reasoning as explained to me in Deere tech school was that tractors did not need the high amps that cars need at low RPMs. So the bigger pulleys gave better belt traction (less chance of slipping) and longer life.

And about "idiot light relays" not reacting fast enough if a belt breaks? Granted the light would not come on immediately but does come on pretty damn quick when the right sensor is used. Often a 13.5 volt chip is used. If a "belt breaks", battery voltage would down to below 13.5 volts in 10-30 seconds. That is plenty quick. Long before overheating will ensue due to the water pump not turning IF a vehicle that shares the same drive between the water-pump and alternator. Many do not.

[zero]

On the subject of “no charge” idiot lights – here’s a story I might have believed had it not happened to me.

Subject car is a 2002 Subaru Impreza. It was running fine but at 120K miles – I yanked it apart and put in a new timing belt, idlers, water pump, and tensioners.

Took a 300 mile trip and when almost home with 50 miles to go, the gauges started to flutter. Most notable was the tach. I suspected some sort of electrical problem. So while rolling along at 50 MPH, I shut the engine off, put the trans in neutral, and tried to restart. Note that as soon as I turned the engine off, the “no charge” light came on. The engine would not start with the key so as I suspected, the battery was near dead. NO charge. I popped the clutch to restart and that “no charge” light went off. What the heck?

We barely made it home. By the time I got to our house the engine was skipping and would not idle. I had to keep the gas pedal near the floor just to get the car into my workshop.

So what do you suppose the issue was? Ends up it was corrosion on the OD of my Japanese alternator. When I had removed the alternator to put the timing belt in, I had broken some sort of electrical bond between the aluminum alternator body and mounting brackets. When I put it back in, even though it was bolted in tight in two places – that alternator no longer had any useful contact with chassis ground. The charge light system is a closed circuit that does not rely on vehicle ground. All it does is read alternator output voltage. So my alternator was putting out over 14 volts easy. Just happens that no charge current was getting to the battery. That is what I’m going to call bad engineering. Good thing it was a day trip. Had it been nighttime with the lights on – we would not have made it.

All it took to fix was to remove the alternator, wire-brush and spots where metal needed to contact metal, put some anti-oxidant on it, and re-install.

[Maineah]

If the voltage is set at a fixed voltage the light will false trigger or will not trigger at all. If you want a reliable charge light you need to have an alternator that provides that no exceptions. If the Subaru was your's you were lucky it did not blow some thing up like the radio etc.in order to register voltage you have to have a - and + or there is no reference. If the regulator senses low voltage because of a bad ground it will go about over charging, the light will not come on because it is charging the problem is a fluke not common place. Grounds will come through any wiring that is at lower voltage than the output the potential matches resistance to ground. A one wire system is directly connected to the battery through a wire much larger than any other it sees battery voltage very nicely. I'm done with this do what you want do not allow science get in the way.

[zero]

A one wire system is directly connected to the battery through a wire much larger than any other it sees battery voltage very nicely. I'm done with this do what you want do not allow science get in the way.

I let science "get in my way" often and am well versed in Ohm's Law.

[kayakthecoast]

Northwest off-road sells a bolt on Nippon 100 amp. Cost more. But it just bolted in along with electrical plug. Just check what plug you have, square or round, give them a call.

http://www.northwestoffroad.com

[zero]

I don't think they've had "Nippon" in the name for a long time. Started out as Nippon Denso, then Nippo Denso, and now Denso Corp. It's owned by Toyota. Higher max amp, bolt-in-swap alternators were available even back when our RVs were new. Just had to get one from a high-end car like a Supra. Those 80 amp alternators had 5 rib flat-belt drives. Not single V-belt drives like the 22RE engines have.

What I do NOT understand is the description given at the Website URL you posted. It says they use special pulleys to give more amps at low RPMs. I.e. they are installing smaller pulleys then OEM to make the alternators spin faster. How the heck can that work on a 22RE? With the single V-belt drive, the OEM pulley is not big enough, to have traction enough, to make over 100 amps. Making that pulley smaller just makes it have less traction and less ability to make high amps. The photo they show has a dual V-belt pulley which would do the trick IF the 22RE engine had dual belt drive for the alternator and it does not. I see they say "some minor mods might be required." I wonder what those minor mods are?

I'm not nit-picking. Just trying to understand their ad that makes little sense to me. Any alternator can be made to give more amps if run faster. Adding a smaller pulley does just that. But a smaller pulley also allows the belt to slip which makes doing so a waste of time. I had a 80 amp alternator on my diesel Chevy Suburban with a 2 1/8" single drive pulley. No matter how new or tight that V-belt was - it would slip for 30 seconds after a hard, cold start. Worse when cold because the diesel glow plugs drew a lot of current, along with the starter motor. Once started -there was a huge demand for current from the alternator. The final fix was to install a 3" pulley that gave more traction and also lowered the output of the alternator.

[shibs]

I went ahead and bought a denso supra alternator off amazon

DENSO FIRST TIME FIT 210-0294

NEW ALTERNATOR 93 94 95 96 97 98 TOYOTA SUPRA 3.0L 27060-46050, 27060-46060

it says it does 90 Amps, not sure what it does at idle, I recon more than what I have in my 90 V6 Toyota Winni.

this is what it looks like

[Totem]

there is a bolt on aftermarket alternator i cannot right now remember the brand, but in previous posts i put a link to it in previous discussions where we were discussing ways to use alternator to potentially power window AC unit. That alternator had a much higher idle output, and only required you put your stock toyota pulley on it from your older alternator.

[linda s]

there is a bolt on aftermarket alternator i cannot right now remember the brand, but in previous posts i put a link to it in previous discussions where we were discussing ways to use alternator to potentially power window AC unit. That alternator had a much higher idle output, and only required you put your stock toyota pulley on it from your older alternator.

I think this is the one you posted. Mucho money but it does crank out some massive power.

http://www.fasttrackautoparts.com/item/136138-powermaster-41280-alternator

Linda S

[Totem]

Alas not enough to supply a large enough inverter to run a roof av... Window unit possibly though. Was it waiter that had put a window ac unit in?... Has me thinking still about a couple high capacity deep cycles, a 4000 watt HF inverter and oh so nice AC, though the inverter genny works well too

[zero]

there is a bolt on aftermarket alternator i cannot right now remember the brand, but in previous posts i put a link to it in previous discussions where we were discussing ways to use alternator to potentially power window AC unit. That alternator had a much higher idle output, and only required you put your stock toyota pulley on it from your older alternator.

I don't see how that is possible. It defies any laws of electronics and physics as i know them. The weak link is the single belt drive. A 2.4 engine engine with a single V-belt only has belt-traction enough to make maybe 80 amps if all is perfect and that is doubtful. 60 amps is more like it. It doesn't matter what the capability of the alternator is if the belt slips trying to turn it. A roof-top AC unit is going to need over 110 amps of current surge every time it starts and then taper back to around 60-70 amps @ 14 volts. Now if somebody came up with a dual belt drive for that alternator - yes. My 1985 Iszuu 2.2 engine came standard with dual-belt drive on the alternator. So did my 1987 Subaru with a 1.8 engine. Not any Toyota 2.2s or 2.4s I've seen though. The Toyotas in the 80s that came with 80-90 amp alternators used 5-rib or 6 rib flat-belt drive as I recall.

By the way - I've done some actual testing this. That because I had several "problem" diesel Chevys that had alternator belt slippage issues since they were new. Why just the diesels? Because of the excess current draw when starting due to the higher-amp starter (350 amps) and eight glow plugs drawing 80 amps. At start-up - the big surge of power demand on the alternator caused a lot of burnt-up V-belts. And yes - the 379 cube diesels had just a single 1/2" V-belt like Toyota uses on 2.2s and 2.4s. Those were 72 amp alternators. I tested with an amp-meter. 70 amps was the threshold when that single (brand new) V-belt on a 2 1/4" pulley would slip. The final fix was to install a single 3" pulley. That bigger pulley gave more belt tractor but also resulted in less amps at engine idle speed since the alternator turned slower.

[Totem]

ive replaced pulleys many times. no defying physics about it, i just unbolt the old pulley and put on the new. The part is clearly labled for a toyota.

If you meant defying physics to power a rooftop AC, yes thats the general consensus we arrived at; that it couldn't be done without a massive battery bank that would eventually deplete even while driving. It may however lend enough power to run a light duty window unit though which have much smaller electric needs, and as mentioned I think John put a window AC unit mounted in the wall of his rig. can't remember, was an old thread.