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My 77 toyota chinook 20r with a weber carb "electric choke" is getting oil in it right in the filter area it's also blowing oil smoke out the tailpipe. I recently had to limp the rv 4 miles to A friends house in 1st gear I kept an eye on the heat gauge ran the heater the whole way and it just barely got over the halfway point on the gauge. Now it intermittently runs rough missing and spluttering and dying my first thought was water in the fuel before I spotted the oil in the breather. I drained the tank left the cap off and drain plug out overnight then replaced the filter and put fresh gas in it problem stayed the same missing and all. After reading through several forum threads my thought was could the valves need adjusting could that be the problem? I was thinking it was time to rebuild the engine so if anyone knows the best selection for A full and complete rebuild kit that they could suggest it would be helpful. Also I have had a couple of good exhaust clearing backfires(right near a policeman's house) that were not fun. Also all new wires ngk plugs reverted to a coil and condenser all new points not replaced but clean compression check was uncompleted due to lack of a tool (needed really long needlenose pliers) to adequately tighten the gauge fitting in the head front cylinder 126 psi 2nd back from it 126 psi third back 125 rearmost cylinder unable to tighten fitting well but read at 60 psi. Any suggestions or comments appreciated and welcome.

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Check your PCV valve. You could be getting blowback from the valve cover.
Also check your EGR valve (if equipped). A stuck or partially open valve could create skipping issues.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Sounds like a bad pvc. But excessive crankcase pressure because of a broken ring can cause oil to blow through the pvc. Ya gotta get a good reading on that one low cylinder. A screw in gauge that uses a flexible hose.

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Hopefully someone hasn't cross-threaded the rear spark plug...That's kind of a pain. And kind of common. When I had my head off I took it to the shop for cleaning and had them chase all the spark plug threads while they had it. Wish I had them check all the exhaust manifold bolt holes while they were at it...oh well.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Had this happen to mine. The PCV should be routed to the Manifold directly - not the Carb - but may be worth replacing ($4 or so at the local parts store). The oil on mine was coming from the front valve cover vent/breather (near the oil cap), if this is the way yours is routed - I'd put a little generic air filter on the vent/breather and plug the port in the Airbox (generic plugs and air filters [i used a small red one from Oreilly's] can be found at most parts stores.... I ended up buying a proper K&N Weber Filter Kit (it's pricey though, think it was like $80) as my original airfilter was junk after our last trip, but it works great - and hopefully will help with the MPGs....if nothing else it looks cool.

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Say this again (or with photos).

I have the pcv routed to the place on the carb Weber meant for it to be routed, and I bought a longer hose for the vent closer to the oil cap so it would reach the air cleaner, again in the place Weber meant for it to connect.

If there's a trick/better place to route these that I don't know about, let me know! I know a lot of people put the little K&N filter on the valve cover (but didn't realize if there's an actual benefit, or if it just is its own thing and either way is fine), but if there's somewhere else to route the pcv, let me know!

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Sounds like your OK. the PCV should draw fresh FILTERED air into the valve cover, either from the air cleaner or through the K&N breather cap. The other end with the actual PCV valve should go to a fitting in the manifold or a fitting in an adapter plate BELOW the carb. To work correctly the PCV needs manifold vacuum.

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@Zach - as WME stated: the PCV should be routed to the intake manifold directly - not the carb. And I would highly recommend the little filter on the valve cover instead of routing it into the Carb (just cap the hole in the airbox where it is "supposed to go" - nice thing about my new Weber K&N is it doesn't even have this air inlet hole in the airbox). I say this because, with mine, it started sucking oil out of the valve cover and into the Carb/Airbox which made a mess out of the filter and probably wasn't helping efficiency). I'll take some pics of my current set-up (and my old nasty filter) if it ever stops raining here.

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