mini-wini-dan Posted January 6, 2014 Share Posted January 6, 2014 I will look through the forum for answers to this problem. The burner seems to fail to ignite during cycles of off and on. The blower starts but the burner fails to ignite. I hear the click but burner does not fire. The only way to get the heat back is to shut down the furnace and wait for the blower to shut of and then restart. This usually gets it back into operation but over night it will consistantly fail and I will wake up in the cold with the blower shooting out cold air. I am guessing that the igniter mechanism needs replacement? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fred heath Posted January 6, 2014 Share Posted January 6, 2014 Sounds like a bad controller board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted January 6, 2014 Share Posted January 6, 2014 I agree with Fred, Dinosaur boards can't be beat and unlike the stock boards they try to light 3 times before they give up. Some of the top of the line Dinosaur will even turn off the blower if it fails to light. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waiter Posted January 6, 2014 Share Posted January 6, 2014 The furnace sequence is1) Call for Heat (Thermostat tells furnace to run)2) Blower turns on for a purge cycle. This blows any unburnt gas out of the furnace to make sure things don't go BOOM. and brings in fresh air for combustion.3) Controller tests to make sure blower is running by looking at the "sail switch"4) Controller opens gas valve5) Controller turns on igniter6) Controller looks at flame to see if there was ignition 7) If no ignition, controller turns off gas and igniter, but levaes blower running. If you not getting past #3 (very common) then you need to look at why the sail switch isn't turning on. This can be a weak battery causing the blower not to run fast enough, or there is blockage in the intake or exhaust (Bugs like this and make a nice home during the summer). or, a defective sail switch.If you are getting past #3 you should be able to hear the gas valve "click" and the igniter turn on and start sparking.If this is happening, but no ignition, then check the gas supply, (If your stove works, the furnace should work) Also, there have been reports of the gas valve sticking. give it a good wrap and see if you get gas flow. JOhn Mc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanAatTheCape Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 which furnace do you have? mine (suburban) has a "3 try" logic - after 3 trys it will leave the fan running - yes it blows cold air. I would try it with good voltage available to see if that is an issue. you may have a thermocouple issue - probably located near igniter -- if that is not "detecting heat" (generated small bit of voltage which tells controller that combustion is occurring). Might check burner for obstructions - when the unit is lit is the flame even? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob C Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 I have a problem with my furnace lighting and found that I have a mud-daubber nest in my vent. I cleaned out the obstruction and the furnace worked properly. I also installed a screen over the outside of the vent. Warning - do not touch the screen when the furnace is running, the warning label is correct when it says that the screen gets hot. It leaves a nice basket weave mark on the skin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanAatTheCape Posted January 15, 2014 Share Posted January 15, 2014 good advice - check for obstructions Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
douglitas Posted January 15, 2014 Share Posted January 15, 2014 I just went through this issue with my 87 Seabreeze. turned out it was the igniter board..whatever that is. cost $150 or thereabouts for the experts at the Motorhome Repair place to get to the bottom of the problem. good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sdboltdude Posted January 29, 2014 Share Posted January 29, 2014 my 1987 Mini Cruiser heater was not igniting clean up everything and shop vac outside vent and all around heater now works great.. cleaning would be my 1st choice then start to check electric components good luck Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boots Posted May 4, 2014 Share Posted May 4, 2014 There is a sensor in some heaters, which measures the voltage of the power supply. There are two sources coming to the furnace, which can be confusing. The first comes from your "shore power" / AC plug in, which goes into your coaches electrical system. There the AC is converted to 12 volts and provides a lot of voltage and amperage to all of your coach. When you are connected your furnace will likely run, without problems (this is a clue to solving your problem) and leads you to the second source of DC power - your coach battery. If you have no way of confirming that the coach battery is deteriorating, then you should take into a battery shop, where they can load test. Ps. just using a multimeter to test voltage will not work. So if your coach battery is worn out, then it is time to replace it. What happens when the furnace calls for heat, the circuit board measures the voltage, this a safety feature, because insufficient voltage will compromise the furnace's safety and operation. if the voltage measurement is below a certain value (say 12.5 volts) it will not allow the furnace cycle to continue, it will shut the furnace down, and probably try again, only to happen over and over. Cold air is a good sign that you have this battery condition. I have also seen this caused by a faulty furnace board, that can be replaced, for about 200 dollars. Boots Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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