Debbit Posted October 5, 2013 Share Posted October 5, 2013 Well, somewhere along the way, the waste water tank really cracked. It had bedpan patched before, we could tell, but this is a serious crack that runs almost the length of the back edge. We will attempt to patch it to get home without grossing anyone out, but I wonder how realistic it is to patch such a large crack. Can we replace our tanks? Just wondering what to do.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vanman Posted October 5, 2013 Share Posted October 5, 2013 Search the forums. I have seen a post on this with good ways to fix it. I am a J B Weld guy myself, although this might be better job fot Marine-Tex. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted October 5, 2013 Share Posted October 5, 2013 I have fixed pretty large cracks in ABS tanks with good results. First can you access the whole length of the crack. If not tank will need to be removed. If you can first thing to do is drill a small hole at each end of the crack to release pressure and prevent it from cracking further. Then do this Posted 21 May 2011 - 10:10 AM This method works very well. You make a slurry of abs shavings and abs glue. I used a rasp fitting on my drill and ground up a 1 dollar abs fitting I bought at the hardware store. Mix in a disposable foil pan, dollar store. Paint onto area where it's cracked. Press into it very open weave figerglass mat. Paint over again until completely covered. You have to work very quickly so have everything cut to fit and ready. Fiberglass doesn't stick to abs but the open weave supports the abs gunk and your basically making brand new abs over the crack. You will need to mix new pan of shavings and glue probably several times. Gloves and eye coverings are a must. Total cost is very little so worth a try Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Debbit Posted October 5, 2013 Author Share Posted October 5, 2013 Thanks! Going to attempt a mending job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dolphinite no longer here Posted October 5, 2013 Share Posted October 5, 2013 Debbit, Linda's method sounds like a good bet for repairing your tank in place. I have one more way that might be a little simpler. I worked for many years as a shipwright building and repairing boats in Alaska. One of the quick and dirty ways to fix a hole or crack in wood, plastic, steel, aluminum and, yes, ABS, is to use a product called "Splash Zone". Its made by Woolsey Manufacturing Company and can be ordered on line if you can't find it around the Southwest U.S. I've used it to repair parts of boats that were underwater! It will actually set up underwater. It comes in two parts that you mix together in your hands (with gloves on). When the two colors mix together and become one color, just roll it into a "worm shape" and press it into the crack or hole and smooth it down with your hand dipped in water. (If you don't use a little water, the stuff tends to stick to your hand) If the surface is wet or damp (like your tank) use some tape to temporarily hold the stuff in place until it sets up. Like a nice sunset in the Southwest, you'll be amazed... John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Debbit Posted October 7, 2013 Author Share Posted October 7, 2013 Plastic welding seems to be working. We will see. Pump seems to be sucking air, still need to find the source of that problem. So no water. I guess that makes a split wastewater tank less of a problem, anyway. One of our dogs got pretty sick, found a vet and spent some money. Not the relaxing trip I'd envisioned, but other than a dead battery, no real vehicle problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Debbit Posted October 13, 2013 Author Share Posted October 13, 2013 Biggest crack welded and not leaking. But there are several other cracks and places the water seeps out. I have to run water into the tank, slide under, note where water is dripping, mark with white crayon, drain tank. Then let it stop dripping, and slide back under to melt some more plastic welding sticks. Eventually, I may get them all, but I bet we shouldn't drive with any weight on that tank! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gulfstream Greg Posted October 13, 2013 Share Posted October 13, 2013 Biggest crack welded and not leaking. But there are several other cracks and places the water seeps out. I have to run water into the tank, slide under, note where water is dripping, mark with white crayon, drain tank. Then let it stop dripping, and slide back under to melt some more plastic welding sticks. Eventually, I may get them all, but I bet we shouldn't drive with any weight on that tank! Welded? There is an actual way to weld plastic using a small pencil heat gun. Basically with the heat gun you melt the item you need to weld together while melting a stick of the same material into the crack or seam. Once cooled you can figure out the rest. Here is a video on the process http://youtu.be/If1TKvhokxw Also do a search on eBay for plastic welder for many kits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Debbit Posted October 13, 2013 Author Share Posted October 13, 2013 I bought a plastic welding "kit" at harbor freight while we were in tulsa. My son did some repair while we were there, and I've been doing more here and there. I just don't know it the tank itself is too old and saggy. Aren't we all! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Debbit Posted October 18, 2013 Author Share Posted October 18, 2013 Even though all cracks are welded, and then some, a little water keeps seeping out of the middle area where there is the most flex and the messiest welding. Going to try to reheat and remove some od the welded patching and redo. When I hold open the flush lever to the toilet, I can see right down to the tank and the inside portion of the crack that is flexing the most. So just GUESS what else I'm going to do. And I hope my arm doesn't get stuck!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted October 18, 2013 Share Posted October 18, 2013 Any chance of adding some extra support under the tank so it doesn't flex as much? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Debbit Posted October 18, 2013 Author Share Posted October 18, 2013 Thank you for the good ideas. Is there a post somewhere that could guide us in the removal of the tank? Underneath, I see the angle iron we need to remove to drop it. I don't know what to expect in the toilet and drain pipes attachment. If we could remove it, we would have more success, I know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Debbit Posted October 19, 2013 Author Share Posted October 19, 2013 I thought I'd post an update to add to the shared experience pool. The tank isn't repairable, it is entirely brittle. Removing the bracket to hold it into place and trying to shift it resulted in fractured pieces. It snaps in pieces as easily as egg shells. I'm not sure what it's made of, looks like an opaque plastic, but it has some kind of speckles in it. Anyway, it's gone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted October 19, 2013 Share Posted October 19, 2013 Waste tanks are usually made of ABS plastic. Hope you can at least still measure what the size was. Try Ebay for a new one Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Debbit Posted October 20, 2013 Author Share Posted October 20, 2013 Here is what is left, plenty to measure. It was pretty funny, we were under there peeling off the plastic I'd welded on, it came off ridiculously easily. My husband took the brace off and said "I bet if we push this over, it will come down". As he pushed a little on the corner, a piece of it broke into his hand. Well, at least we know we need another tank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted October 20, 2013 Share Posted October 20, 2013 I'd have to say: at least the tank was empty! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Debbit Posted October 20, 2013 Author Share Posted October 20, 2013 EWW. Yeah! The toilet in our dolphin is nice, but leaks badly from somewhere. Until we fix the tank and the toilet, I'd rather use a porta potty in there. And since our tank was grey and black water combined, we were planning on doing something else anyway. The plan for now is remove toilet, and substitute porta potty. We have one of those grey rolling wastewater tanks which we will take along. We will catch kitchen sink water in that tank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted October 20, 2013 Share Posted October 20, 2013 I see it has a separater in there to keep the solids away from the grey section. I don't know how well it worked but I would be looking for 2 waste tanks to replace this one. Keep the poopy out of the gray water. Please post measurements of the whole deal including depth and length of just poopy section up to separater. I will look for something that will work Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Debbit Posted October 20, 2013 Author Share Posted October 20, 2013 Thanks, that would be great. I'll measure tomorrow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted October 20, 2013 Share Posted October 20, 2013 The tank is upside down in the pic, I don't think that it is a separator. BUT I do agree that 2 tanks would be a better idea. Just measure the SPACE where it fits also. There might be room for more tankage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Debbit Posted October 22, 2013 Author Share Posted October 22, 2013 We took the big toilet out and covered the hole. Then put the porta potty where the toilet used to be. I was never very happy with the idea of one waste water tank, and if we do put the toilet back, we will have seperate tanks. Just greywater for the kitchen sink should be fine and it gives us a lot of aftermarket tanks to choose from. The area will accept a tank 33" x 24". We may go smaller, and will secure it with straps that run between the two angle iron pieces that held the original into place. I really don't mind the porta pot instead of a big toilet, in fact I like the idea a lot better! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted October 22, 2013 Share Posted October 22, 2013 You need to note the depth of your tank too. Many of them would hang down too low. Are the measurements here just what the grey tank would need to be or the size of your old one. The pic of the old one looks bigger Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Debbit Posted October 22, 2013 Author Share Posted October 22, 2013 The depth is around 8". The original tank is bigger, yes. It is has an indentation to fit around one of the frame parts under the camper. If we leave off the part that the toilet and bathroom sink and shower drain into, we could use a small standard tank under the kitchen sink drain. Then we could hang a smaller black water tank under the toilet and bath drains, if we need to. I'm sure we would have a really hard time finding a tank like the original configuration. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted October 22, 2013 Share Posted October 22, 2013 Another member here is parting out his 83 Dolphin. I have asked him to give me more info cause he is near me. Shipping might be the problem but I will at least take a look at them for you. If I get them I will reinforce them before I ship. The process that I described with the ABS slurry can coat an old brittle tank and make it stronger. Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Debbit Posted October 23, 2013 Author Share Posted October 23, 2013 Very much appreciated! Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted October 23, 2013 Share Posted October 23, 2013 Very much appreciated! Thanks! Im rethinking this. I know I can reinforce it some the guy whose parting his out has a rear dinette model and the tanks are going to have holes in all the wrong places that would need to be closed and new ones drilled. Might be too much for an old tank no matter what I do. New might be a better idea. Should be less than 150 and then you drill the holes where you need them. Look here for the right size tanks http://www.plastic-mart.com/category/34/rv-holding-tanks http://www.tank-depot.com/product.aspx?id=163 At this place look at ronco only http://www.themetalcompany.com/node/19 at this placed you need to call and ask for more details and prices but they are well respected and make the tanks right there. Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Debbit Posted October 23, 2013 Author Share Posted October 23, 2013 That sounds good also. 2 new smaller or one just for kitchen drain will be easy to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted October 24, 2013 Share Posted October 24, 2013 On the first rv I had the sink gray tank was under the sink, not under the floor. There was a single dump coupler. The black tank valve went streight to it The gray tank was a simple 1.5" feed that went to valve on the top of the black tank. So you would dump the black tank (toilet, bath sink and shower) and then dump the kitchen gray tank. Auto black tank flush. Elgent soulation. How ever I will admit to discovering a lot of new words when I had to drop the black tank to change the gray valve seals. A simple mod would place the gray valve under the sink with a 1.5 line to the black tank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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