magic princess Posted August 9, 2013 Share Posted August 9, 2013 Just give Toyota make and model and ask for 22r/re dual stage thermostat... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magic princess Posted August 9, 2013 Share Posted August 9, 2013 Oh ya, and year...but I think they had this problem all the way to 1994... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magic princess Posted August 9, 2013 Share Posted August 9, 2013 My new problem is after he replaced drive belt it now screeches going uphill...hoping it just need tightening....but don't want to bring it in again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magic princess Posted August 9, 2013 Share Posted August 9, 2013 I am thinking I might have ruined the whole cooling system with these stupid aftermarket stats. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tlava Posted August 9, 2013 Author Share Posted August 9, 2013 Found it: a two-stage t-state, part # 90916-03070 (03078 is the reg. t-stat); $33.00 + $10.00 shipping online at Olathe OEM parts ctr: https://parts.olathetoyota.com/index.html. There was also one on Ebay for $50.00 free shipping Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tlava Posted August 9, 2013 Author Share Posted August 9, 2013 BTW--so you were experiencing temp fluctuations? Funny, though, driving the car back from Wisconsin the temp held steady, so this started recently. I think it is not a lower tem t-stat though: the one on Ebay is rated at 190 I believe Oh, BTW--does this require a gasket? any special way it should be inserted (ie., the various holes pointing in any particualr direction)? I assume it doesn't matter since it is a horizontal mount... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tlava Posted August 9, 2013 Author Share Posted August 9, 2013 RE cooling system flush, bleeding, etc--This is all there is to it ?: http://www.carsdirect.com/car-repair/how-to-bleed-a-radiator-an-auto-diy-maintenance-guide Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magic princess Posted August 9, 2013 Share Posted August 9, 2013 I think they reused the gasket...but you know a Toyota parts sales clerk can be a wealth of free info....I am no expert...maybe my radiator was already gone? Let me know what u do...I am now afraid to drive mine...I never broke down on the side of the road in it b4.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magic princess Posted August 9, 2013 Share Posted August 9, 2013 The mechanic had me start it with radiator cap off and warm it up so he could make sure coolant was flowing...the check engine light flashed on, he told me why, I can't remember but it was unrelated....ran it for awhile with cap off, it didn't overheat in idle....I think this is called 'burping' or getting air out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tlava Posted August 9, 2013 Author Share Posted August 9, 2013 Hi All-- Idled the engine quite a while--temp guage in cab still runs up close to R, then drops. Using the infrared reader device, the highest temp I can get on the engine is right next to the engine temp sensor--close to 200 if I hold the device witin an inch or so of the spot I'm reading; if I back off about 6" to a foot, and read the same spot, it reads10-15 degrees cooler, so not quite sure which is the accurate reading. In any case, this seems to correlate with the high end of the temp guage on the dashboard in the cab--just below the red. When the engine reaches the high 190s (measured at the temp sensor), either the t-stat opens more, or something else happens and the guage on the dash begins to drop, ad the temp reading goes down. So one question I have is, when the temp guage on the dash is close to red, would that normally indicate an engine temp in the upper 190s? or or the upper 190s more or less normal operating temp. if so, maybe the temp sensor is too sentitive? Reading several spots on the block and heads, readings vary from the 170s and 180s to the highest as I said above. the rediator when hot reads in 160s --170s at the very top, to close to 100 in places just below the top, and 80's about midway down. When I measure the exhaust side, I get readings over 200, and even up to 220, when trying to measure at the spark plug area... well, a lot of hot air blowing on the temp device there, too, and the exhaust manifold nearby--so perhaps this is confusing the reading? Otherwise don't know why two sides of the head (couldn't find a spot to check the block on the exhaust side) would read so differently. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tlava Posted August 9, 2013 Author Share Posted August 9, 2013 ALSO NOTICED: the pulley that the fan clutch attaches to seems a bit loose--if I pull on the fan, I can move it back and forth a bit--should this pulley be loose or snug? If it should be snug/tight, then what might a loose on imply? water pump not working properly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted August 9, 2013 Share Posted August 9, 2013 The hottest is at the top the very coldest at the bottom.The hand held temp interments do not do well at an angle and can explain your different readings.Drain enough water to see the tubes in the radiator have a look at the tubes if there is trash in the tubes it's plugged up. Flushing really does not do much for a radiator that is full of yuck. As recommended before try a thermostat it is the simplest thing to do. Check engine light is only emission related nothing to do with overheating. If they had the radiator flushed it sounds like this is an on going problem that is not really a maintenance related thing. Linda probably nailed it with a 3 tube radiator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted August 9, 2013 Share Posted August 9, 2013 I got the best brand, CFS all metal, but when I needed it they didn't have a 3 core in stock. I settled for the 2 core and it never even gets to half way hot anymore. Not even in the mountains. The main thing is it's new and not old and cruddy inside. If your driving with a 20 plus year old radiator I don't care how much you flush it, it's still cruddy inside Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tlava Posted August 9, 2013 Author Share Posted August 9, 2013 got the radiator too--$255 for a 3-core. Any ideas about the loose pulley? normal? this is deja vu for sure---did all this witl the SR, to no avail.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waiter Posted August 9, 2013 Share Posted August 9, 2013 Play in the pulley doesn't sound good. If you wiggle the fan, how much does the pulley move, i.e. 1/16 inch, 1/8 inch. The pulley drives the water pump, the bearing in the water pump could be worn and causing the play, but this shouldn't be causing your heat problem, but the water pump needs to be replaced. If the fan wiggles, but the pulley isn't moving, the fan clutch could be a problem, and this could be causing you temp issues. John Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tlava Posted August 10, 2013 Author Share Posted August 10, 2013 I'd say at least 1/8, maybe more and a bit noisy -- maybe the noise is comming from the loose pulley. something definitely loose... so is the water pump is a difficult job? replacing the radiator and t-stat doesn't look to tough on this engine; for water pump I'd need to get the FC off--always tight. Any rec. on a tool for this, since I know a standard rachet won't fit? anything special I have do to when installing radiator (to avoid air bubbles, etc)? just fill, turn on engine, and keep filling? (I added a like earlier for flushing, so I guess same procedure?) Last time I installed an FC, the pulley and belt just stayed on--will I need to loosen a belt tensioner to remove the pulley? any step-by- step would be appreciated oh--just four bolts for the radiator brackets on the side, or some on the bottom as well that I can't see and won't be able to get to without pulling the engine or something equally absurd? would it be a good idea to flush the current radiator w/engine running before pulling it so that I can flush the block in prep for new installation? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waiter Posted August 10, 2013 Share Posted August 10, 2013 If you have that much play, you need to change the water pump. I'm surprised its not leaking. It wouldn't hurt to flush it good before pulling the old radiator and pump. While your at it, put on new hoses and belts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tlava Posted August 10, 2013 Author Share Posted August 10, 2013 Actually, after looking at a YouTube vid showing how to replace the pump, I realize it is not the pump that is the problem, just the black pulley that mounts on the plate--it looks like a kind of metal cup that slide over the water pump mounting plate, and the belt rides on that; I don't know if it is just that the nuts are loose, or if the pulley is somehow misalligned, but I'm also not sure how to allign it. I read on the Toyotanation forum that there is "only 1/16" to mount it on on, and that it must be held in the "proper position" when the fan and nuts are attached, but I'm not sure what all that means... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waiter Posted August 10, 2013 Share Posted August 10, 2013 Its the water pump, It should come with a gasket, but always check.Same with the thermostat, its a rubber seal that fits around the thermostat, again, make sure its in the box before you leave the store. John Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waiter Posted August 10, 2013 Share Posted August 10, 2013 If the pully is moving when you wiggle the fan, then the bearing in the waterpump is bad. (or the bolts that hold the pully to the water pump are loose)John Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted August 11, 2013 Share Posted August 11, 2013 The laser just shows where its measuring. The IR tool measures in a cone, so the futher away your the wider the spot. So close is better. Your temps look good, the two stage theromostat is Toyota's answer to what your seeing on the temp gauge. The big techie name is temp overshoot. Think of something like mechanical hysteris in the thermostat Looking in the top of the radiator when its warming up is a good way to see the flow from the water pump, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waiter Posted August 11, 2013 Share Posted August 11, 2013 I would flush the system as best you can before you start removing anything. you don't want to put on new radiator, hoses, water pump, thermostat, then stir up all the crap in the system. Removing the water pump Getting the fan clutch off can be a little tricky.remove the shroud, (if you can)The nuts on the fan clutch are probably 10mm. Use an open end wrench and just knock them loose 1/4 turn. Sometimes if you snug the fan belt real tight (pull or push on it) it will be enough to keep the pulley from spinning when you try and break the nuts loose. quick jerks or tap the wrench with a hammer or something will generally yield better results then simply pulling on the wrench. Do the same when you put it all back together, after you get the nuts on and tight, tap on the wrench to snug up the nuts. After you get the 4 nuts loose, then you can loosen up the alternator and take the belt off. With the belt off, you should be able to remove the nuts completely and the clutch and fan will come off.Remove an replace the radiator.When you remove the bolts for the waterpump. I recommend having the new pump sitting on the floor or bench. As you remove each bolt from the old pump, place it in the correct hole on the new water pump. I don't remember if the Toyota water pump has different bolt lengths, but I have run into cars that the bolts are different lengths, and if you put the wrong bolt in the wrong hole, you can do serious damage. Again, I don't remember if the 22RE is like this, but check anyway. John Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tlava Posted August 11, 2013 Author Share Posted August 11, 2013 It seems the bottom of the shroud looks like it will slip behind the fan, so it can be pulled straight up? If I take that, and then the radiator out, it looks like I'd have more room, and could remove the fan from the clutch, and then have an easier job getting to the nuts? The PS pulley and tensioner are in the way on top, and not sure I can get in there... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rewesling Posted August 11, 2013 Share Posted August 11, 2013 The Toyota Engines will run hot if the thermostat fails,or the cooling system is full of debri, rust,or a bad radiator(ALWAYS use the OLD radiator to flush the system BEFORE putting in the new radiator .) or the radiator cap goes bad.The most common problems I have found is the LOWER RADIATOR HOSE will collaps after the engine gets hot and you turn it off then restart it, or in stop and go traffic. In these situations the cooling system will create a vacumm in the system causing the weak sidewalls of the hose to be sucked together,This vacumm in the system is normal in order to pull fluid out of the overflow tank back into the radiator as needed.There are 2 remedies that will cure the lower radiator hose problem,1- buy the lower radiator hose with a coil spring molded in to the rubber of the hose, 2- buy the stainless steel lower radiator hose spring that you put in the hose. When using the SS 1 1/2 spring be sure to put it in a new hose just to save time. The spring can be bought on the internet for about $6.98 and you`ll find it for sale as a SB Ford Mustang lower radiator hose spring. Hope this helped! Rod Wesling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tlava Posted August 19, 2013 Author Share Posted August 19, 2013 when flushing the cooling system, should I just run water through, or also some sort of cleaning agent? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waiter Posted August 19, 2013 Share Posted August 19, 2013 Yes, maybe run cleaner thru it, then flush with water. Get both up to temp, and make sure the heater is on full HOT with the blower running at a low speed. John Mc 88 Dolphin 4Auto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tlava Posted August 19, 2013 Author Share Posted August 19, 2013 BTW--the dual-hole T-stat I ordered did not come w/a gasket--but when I go to the online parts place (the one recommended earlier for the valve cover gasket), to find a t-stat gasket, they show a couple different ones for the '84 22re --an O-ring, and a housing gasket with the bolt holes; the latter looks like the one I need, though it is listed generically for the '84 pickup, 2.4L, not necessarily the 22 RE, so I assume this is standard for all; do I need both an O-ring and the housing gasket? Also, if I need the O-ring, would there be a special one for the dual-hole t-stat, or is it the same... ALso wondering, about the vavlve adjust: what is the firing order, and how will I know when #1 is TDC? Excuse me, but it has been many years... and that was with a '67 VW 1,500cc ALso rotation is clockwise? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tlava Posted August 19, 2013 Author Share Posted August 19, 2013 Oh--the link: http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1984/toyota/pickup/cooling_system/thermostat_gasket.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tlava Posted August 19, 2013 Author Share Posted August 19, 2013 ALso noticed a 160 degree t-stat listed as an alt temp? : http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1984/toyota/pickup/cooling_system/thermostat.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tlava Posted August 19, 2013 Author Share Posted August 19, 2013 Sorry--I know I should be asking this under another heading--but what about torque for the valve cover gaskets? I assume they should be tightened with a torque wrench? to what ft lb? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MontanaChinook Posted August 19, 2013 Share Posted August 19, 2013 You REALLY need a manual...especially if you're getting into bolt torque specs. Valve cover gaskets require very little. If you tighten them as much as you'd probably assume they need, it'll be too much and the rocker arms will hit the underside of the cover. For the t stat, you need both gaskets, but on the rubber o ring, you can reuse the old one if its in decent shape. I'd just replace it, though. And yeah, R, RE, should be the same exact parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waiter Posted August 19, 2013 Share Posted August 19, 2013 Valve adjust can be done when the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley is at #1TDC. You'll be able to adjust 1/2 of the valves at this position, then rotate the crank 360 degrees so the timing mark is lined up again, and you can adjust the rest of the valves. Its easiest to do this at the same time your replacing all the spark plugs (pull them all out) it makes turning the crank by hand a lot easier. As for torque, snug them up. not sure if an actual torque is listed. I don't know about your thermostat gasket, mine has a rubber ring that goes on the thermostat like the one shown in your link. thats it, just the one gasket. Mine does not use the paper gasket with the bolt holes. John Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MontanaChinook Posted August 19, 2013 Share Posted August 19, 2013 Crazy. My 83 used both gaskets. My 78 uses the paper, but not the rubber one. Guess they couldn't make up their mind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted August 20, 2013 Share Posted August 20, 2013 P.S. A 84 pickup with a 2.4L engine IS the 22r.. The 22 is the engine model number NOT the displacement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted August 20, 2013 Share Posted August 20, 2013 P.S. A 84 pickup with a 2.4L engine IS the 22r.. The 22 is the engine model number NOT the displacement. No Terry this is an SR5 model and the 22re was available on only the SR5 in 1984. Found that info in an old toyota brochure from that year Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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