tlava Posted February 12, 2013 Share Posted February 12, 2013 '86 Nissan 3.0 (V6)--dies at idle with warm engine--will run for a bit, then falter and die; if I rev up idle a bit, no problem. Mechanic says fuel pump is OK--any ideas? He thinks maybe some sort of sensor? They replaced one sensor, but still a problem. Is there a way to read information from the on-board computer, under the passenger seat? would that help? * update--the mechanic said it was a sensor that also controls the idle somehow--he just told me but I forget the name because of the price shock--I had him install a fan clutch and t-stat (parts I had already bought), and the new sensor; the sensor was $155.00, and the total bill $679.00! so labor for those items $500, which I guess must include some diagnostic time? does that seem right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waiter Posted February 12, 2013 Share Posted February 12, 2013 My Toyota 22re is doing something similar, been getting progressively worst the last year or so.I originally cranked up the idle speed, this helped. now when its cold, I need to hold some gas or it dies.I've been researching the problem, it seems like a vacuum leak, EGR leak, or a Throttle Position Sensor (adjust or bad)As soon as we get some warm weather, I'll look very carefully at all the lines and intake hose to make sure there are no cracks or air leaks.Then pull the EGR off and make sure its not leaking and all the passages are clear.Then pull the Throttle Position Sensor off, clean it, and see if it will re-install and adjust.I may also pull the fuel injectors and send them out for a cleaning.John Mc 88 Dolphin 4 AUto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tlava Posted February 12, 2013 Author Share Posted February 12, 2013 Yes--that was it, the throttle position sensor--is it that hard to get to? Well, I must have paid a mint for diagnostic time.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted February 12, 2013 Share Posted February 12, 2013 '86 Nissan 3.0 (V6)--dies at idle with warm engine--will run for a bit, then falter and die; if I rev up idle a bit, no problem. Mechanic says fuel pump is OK--any ideas? He thinks maybe some sort of sensor? They replaced one sensor, but still a problem. Is there a way to read information from the on-board computer, under the passenger seat? would that help? * update--the mechanic said it was a sensor that also controls the idle somehow--he just told me but I forget the name because of the price shock--I had him install a fan clutch and t-stat (parts I had already bought), and the new sensor; the sensor was $155.00, and the total bill $679.00! so labor for those items $500, which I guess must include some diagnostic time? does that seem right? I know the Nissan V6 has a throttle-posistion sensor that can cause those problems. New it costs $50 if bought "sensibly." Standard # TH120, Airtex 5S5168, etc. If I felt like wasting money and got it from NAPA it sell for $90 (Echlin CRB219014). If that is what you got - sounds like your mechanic gave him/herself a $60 gratuity added to the price. Your are talking an hour's labor to install a thermostat, fan clutch and sensor. Mabye another hour with diagnostics, mabye? That's two hours labor. So you are saying (I think) you had $90 in parts on the bill (if bought from NAPA) and two hours time. That comes to almost $300 per hour it seems. As to the computer and reading codes? Some of the older ones have a blinking light right on the computer module. I read mine on my 1981 by holding a small mirror down there. It would tell you much though. It WILL tell you simple things like a bad oxy sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted February 12, 2013 Share Posted February 12, 2013 Here's instructions for self diagnosing your ECU http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/21-ecu-self-diagnostics-for-87-95-pathfinder/ My seat flips forward to get access Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fred heath Posted February 13, 2013 Share Posted February 13, 2013 For what it's worth, it sounds like a vacuum leak to me. As John said, check all your hoses carefully. I found on my 20R toy the hoses looked fine, but had gotten brittle from heat and age. There should be slight résistance when you pull them. Also check to ensure no hoses became detached. It only takes 1 to do it. Put a vacuum gage on any manifold line and see how your reading compares to factory specs. I ended up putting a "smoker" on the engine and found a slight leak on the intake gasket. A smoker is a neat tool that some garages have to detect vacuum leaks. I'm not sure if you can rent them or not. This is just my opinion...Not looking to start a major debate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted February 13, 2013 Share Posted February 13, 2013 * update--the mechanic said it was a sensor that also controls the idle somehow--he just told me but I forget the name because of the price shock--I had him install a fan clutch and t-stat (parts I had already bought), and the new sensor; the sensor was $155.00, and the total bill $679.00! so labor for those items $500, which I guess must include some diagnostic time? does that seem right? I forgot to mention that most dealers and some private shops work by "flat-rate." Nissan has a schedule of the "allowed time" to make repairs. That's how Nissan determines how much to reimburse a dealer for warranty work. It is also a way to make repair costs more standardized. Many private shops use an on-line digital service like Alldata for "flat-rate" schedules. Any repair can be looked up (fan clutch, thermostat, TPS, etc.). On your Nissan - flat rate time to change a TPS is 1/2 hour. If it was warranty work and a dealer wrote up a good story to Nissan - it might be possible to get 1/2 hour for replacing the TPS and maybe an extra hour for diagnosis, test-drive, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tlava Posted February 13, 2013 Author Share Posted February 13, 2013 Yeah, I don't know what rate schedule these guys use, but they get $97.00/hr! No wonder... they had about 2 hrs to change install just the T-stat, and I guess just charged me book for every thing as if starting fresh, rather than bundling -- even though having the fan clutch and fan off must have made it easier to get to the T-stat.... I don't remember labor for the TPS -- I recall a $77 charge, so that was either the FC or the TPS... I'm going to check They also want $400 for labor to replace lifters! Never mind.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waiter Posted February 13, 2013 Share Posted February 13, 2013 Unfortunately, when dealing with an older house (or Toyhouse) if you don't have knowledge, you better have a checkbook. John Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted February 13, 2013 Share Posted February 13, 2013 Dealer times for out of warranty stuff is pretty inflated they base it on Chilton’s or some other source diagnostic repair is very nebulas the better the tech the shorter the time. Nissan pays them what they say it should take and not a dime more for warranty work, dealers are expensive. I can see how they ran the bill up charging everything as a separate job and installing your parts ( no profit in that). However that is past history so did it fix it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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