Reliability

[tommypade]

I am about to buy a 1989 toyota warrior winnebago with the V6 engine. 83000 milles on it and seems to have a just a little bit of maintenance history. I would like to know how reliable are these truck? And what should be done on it befor i it the road for 10 000 miles with it?

[sdboltdude]

Welcome

AS FAR AS THE ENGINE

CHECK FOR HEAD GASKET LEAKS

CHECK VIN# FOR HEAD gasket recall

change all your

fluids

look at tire make sure tires are not old

even if they look good they can fail if they are old tires

[waiter]

Tommy, I believe there was a recall on the cylinder heads, easy to check to see if its complied with, get the VIN and talk to your Toyota Dealer.

Other than that, I haven't heard of any bad reports on either the truck or the coach.

Remember its a 25 year old vehicle with unknown maintenance history. Before we embarked on a 12,000 miles Alaska trip, we went thru ours, hoses, belts, brakes bearings, tires, plugs filters, etc, etc, etc even replaced low probability items that were inexpensive (water pump, radiator flush and test)

HOWEVER - educate yourself on the coach, water leaks, appliances, etc.

Good luck and welcome to the forums.

John Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto

[ShaggyRV]

Timing belt would be a really good thing to check out. If it hasn't been replaced start there as far as engine. A complete trans filter and flush. Upgrade the trans fluid to Dex VI as it is a much better fluid. Maybe a bigger aux trans cooler and everything else previously mentioned.

[Derek up North]

AFAIK, '89 and early '90 V6s were not included in the HG Recall. Certainly worth checking the VIN with Toyota to see where you stand.

At 60k miles, the Maintenance Schedule calls for the timing belt to be changed (not 'inspected') and for the valves to have their clearances 'inspected and adjusted'. The V6 has a reputation for burning (especially the #6) exhaust valve. I suspect this happens because adjusting V6 valves is NOT a cheap and easy task so is often not done. Don't let a mechanic tell you that they don't need adjusting because they're not making any noise. On the V6, as thing wear, the valve clearances actually reduce (making them quieter). This is the opposite to many engines.

Of course, if the seller can't prove that certain maintenance tasks have been done, you've got to assume that they weren't.

[waiter]

Derek, Is the V6 also a zero clearance engine???. More incentive to change the timing belt if it is,.

John Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto

[Derek up North]

I think it might be a 'non-interference' engine (i.e. if the belt breaks, your valves and pistons don't try to occupy the same place at the same time). I could be wrong. However, any way you cut it, when the belt breaks (often with zero warning, even if it 'looked like new' the week before) your engine stops DEAD and you're left immobile wherever it happens. No chugging, no running rough, no 'limping to the next exit'. You'll go as far as a loaded motorhome will coast.

I think nothing makes (most) repair shops rub their hands together with glee than seeing someone far from home being towed in on the end of a chain. Kaching, kaching! Jackpot!

Far better to have it changed by your trusted mechanic under your terms and conditions. And get the valves checked at the same time. Chances are the the 'randomly selected' (by the tow truck driver) mechanic in East Overshoe, Montana will have no idea how to do it properly.

[Riverman77]

In addition to what the previous poster's have said about your V6 / 3.0L engine, along with there being issues with one of the heads or the #6 cylinder, I have also been told that one of the exhaust manifolds should be carefully watched / inspected for cracks. I would venture a guess that it is the manifold associated with the #6 clyinder.

-Riverman77

[Derek up North]

I've heard mention of the cracked exhaust manifold problem. From (feeble) memory, usually the passenger side. Often mentioned, but I don't recall too many mentioning actually having to change it! FWIW.

[zero]

Don't let a mechanic tell you that they don't need adjusting because they're not making any noise. On the V6, as thing wear, the valve clearances actually reduce (making them quieter).

That seems odd for a overhead cam engine. What is the cause? Most engines I've had to fix that lost valve clearance was caused by valve-seat wear (recession). Common with integral induction hardened seats but I assume rare otherwise. I've also seen it happen on pushrod engines from headgaskets "settling."

[zero]

Derek, Is the V6 also a zero clearance engine???. More incentive to change the timing belt if it is,.

John Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto

My Cloyes book shows the following Toyota engines as "interference engines" regardless if with timing belts or chains. For an unknow-to-me reason it lists the 3 liter in the 4-Runner but does not mention the truck.

1986-1995 1.5 liter Tercel

1981-1983 2.2 liter truck

1984-1987 2.4 liter truck

1982-1988 2.8 liter Celica, Cressida

1987-1994 3 liter V6 4 Runner

[Derek up North]

My Cloyes book shows the following Toyota engines as "interference engines" regardless if with timing belts or chains. For an unknow-to-me reason it lists the 3 liter in the 4-Runner but does not mention the truck.

1986-1995 1.5 liter Tercel

1981-1983 2.2 liter truck

1984-1987 2.4 liter truck

1982-1988 2.8 liter Celica, Cressida

1987-1994 3 liter V6 4 Runner

Good thing I said 'I could be wrong.". But no doubt if it's an 'interference' engine in a 4Runner the same's true in the truck.

Sorry, can't offer any explanation for the valves tightening with use but so far from my reading it's been pretty much universally accepted. Of the people here and on the Yahoo Group who have had them checked and posted the measurements I don't remember any clearances that were over spec but many that were under (or close). Unfortunately nobody has driven far enough to have them done twice to give a true 'before' and 'after' 60k miles reading. But assuming they left the factory with the valve at the mid-point of the clearance range, they do indeed appear to tighten, unlike the22R/22R-E.

[zero]

Good thing I said 'I could be wrong.". But no doubt if it's an 'interference' engine in a 4Runner the same's true in the truck.

Sorry, can't offer any explanation for the valves tightening with use but so far from my reading it's been pretty much universally accepted. Of the people here and on the Yahoo Group who have had them checked and posted the measurements I don't remember any clearances that were over spec but many that were under (or close). Unfortunately nobody has driven far enough to have them done twice to give a true 'before' and 'after' 60k miles reading. But assuming they left the factory with the valve at the mid-point of the clearance range, they do indeed appear to tighten, unlike the22R/22R-E.

I don't disblieve it. Just wondering why. I just got done fixing a four cylinder engine in a John Deere that suffered that problem and it was at the end of my list of things I'd suspected.

In the case of the Deere the engine ran perfect. Great power and smooth. Engine was rebuilt two years ago. What happened is that this Fall it got harder and harder to get started on cold mornings for the owner (logger friend of mine). It also ran hotter then it should. I have a lot of experience with Deere engines and my experience made things worse instead of better. That because I started out assuming instead of using proper tools to test. I had figured it had weak spark problems at cold starts when cranking voltage goes to 9 volts. Some electronic ignition systems completely stop working at just below 9 volts. The starter motor tested to be drawing more amps then normal and that led me to think the problem was low cranking voltage related.

To make a long story a big shorter - after a lot of screwing around, off an on over a few weeks one morning the Deere would not start at all. I did not feel real guilty to this point. Although I have a repair shop and charge money to the general public - this was a friend who I charged nothing. Although it seemed counter-intuitive to check compression on an almost new engine that ran perfect once started - I reluctantly stuck a compression gauge in each cylinder, one at a time. To my total suprise - it had 0 PSI, 35 PSI, 70 PSI, and 130 PSI at cranking speed of 300 RPM. Ended up pulling the valve-cover off and the problem was the rocker-arms being too tight and the valves not closing. Odd that it ran so well ONCE running. I guess that happened because when running faster -there was not ample time for the valves to leak enough to effect power. I adjusted the valves and now it starts at 20 below zero F and the engine runs cool. I still do not know what the absolute cause was. It has to be the head -gasket settling or the valve seats wearing. Head bolt torque was still perfect so I assume it was valve seat recession. I know the adjusters were locking fine. Now we have to wait a few years and see if it happens again.

Valve seat recession was a huge problem all over the world when leaded gas first got discontinued. It is usually rare now though except in engines built before 1973 (in the USA).

[Derek up North]

Valve seat recession was a huge problem all over the world when leaded gas first got discontinued. It is usually rare now though except in engines built before 1973 (in the USA).

Like the BLMC 'B'-Series.

Don't mention J Deere to me. My damned 'blower just died on me so I had to finish by hand. One of the wheels came off with the axle!

[zero]

Like the BLMC 'B'-Series.

Don't mention J Deere to me. My damned 'blower just died on me so I had to finish by hand. One of the wheels came off with the axle!

Yeah, but if you have a Deere walk-behind snowblower it does not have a Deere engine. Blame it on Tecumseh, Briggs, Kawasaki, or whatever.

[Derek up North]

Just a plain old Tecumseh 10hp on mine. Not a problem with the engine. Damned fancy schmancy locking diff thing they have. Whatever holds the half-shaft in the diff let go. The whole half-shaft pulls out with the wheel attached. Wish I had a heated shop to work on it in instead of the snowbank.

[Skydancer2992]

Toyota trucks and their engines are very reliable. The 3.0 V6 has known to go one million KM without needing an overhaul. The transmission is rock solid. The engines are easy to take apart and reassemble. Toyota did a good job of standardizing bolt sizes. Toyota factory repair manuals are straight forward and have lots of pictures for those who can't or don't want to read.

The 3.0 is usually denigrated on the Yotatech site for its lack of power at the high end. The engine was designed to be a truck engine, with low end torque.

Changing the fluids (engine oil, transmission, cooling and maybe differential) should be primary importance. These vehicles sit a lot and condensation degrades the utility of the fluids. If you do this yourself, the condition of the old fluids will clue you in about the health of the vehicle and past maintenance.

Change the spark plugs, rotor and rotor cap. Since these are older technology, they are less reliable than modern vehicles. The rotor itself is the most vulnerable as the constant arcing wears it down, creating greater resistance and encouraging electricity to look for other paths, say directly to the cap.

The 3.0 V6 is non-interference, the valves and cylinders do not contact each other. If the belt breaks, you put on a new belt and keep on driving. Some of the young guys on the Yotatech group seem happy driving their timing belts to 150,000 miles and beyond. Uhaul changed the belts out at 90,000 mile intervals, along with the water pump. If you elect to changing the timing belt, all other belts have to come off anyway. Most mechanics should be willing to put on new belts with no additional charge for labor.

Most timing belt kits come with a water pump and a couple of rollers. Doing the job yourself is an educational experience.

As a general rule, Toyota seems to put timing chains on engines that are interference and timing belts on non-interference.. Honda and Ford put timing belts on interference engines. The belt breaks and the engine will probably bend up a bunch of parts. Ford Escorts seem to have a reputation for self destructing. However, they also had lubrication issues as well.

Before doing a valve job, do a compression test. If one of the valves is not closing, there will be a low compression on that cylinder. A valve that does not close cannot transfer heat to the cylinder head and will burn.

I like my V6 and the power it produces. It seems adequate on level ground but when there's a headwind or uphill, I wish it were the 3.4 V6 instead.

[Maineah]

I don't think the 3L will bend valves if the belt breaks. The 3L uses shims on top of the cam followers the theory is that the whole mess wares at the same rate so the clearance remains the same for the life of the valve. Good plan not all ways true. They are a right pain to adjust read expensive I would at least do a compression check. The belts by timing belt standards are huge I have seen them with 200K but 100K is far more realistic and yes a kit is the way to go. My new Tacoma is a "sound" check at some thing like 90K I am glad to hear they have not had issues with the 4L, 4 cams and 24 valves and variable cam timing sounds quite the under taking.

[zero]

Just a plain old Tecumseh 10hp on mine. Not a problem with the engine. Damned fancy schmancy locking diff thing they have. Whatever holds the half-shaft in the diff let go. The whole half-shaft pulls out with the wheel attached. Wish I had a heated shop to work on it in instead of the snowbank.

Probaby still made by Tecumseh. Peerless divsion that made little gearboxes for lawnmowers and snowblowers. As I recall Tecumseh/Peerless/Power Products went bankrupt and is gone.

[5Toyota]

i did own a TECUMSEH POWERED LAWNMOWER I LOOKED A YEAR AGO ON THE NET AND YES TECUMSEH IS GONE OUT OF BUSNESS. I THINK IT SAID 2008

[Derek up North]

The old beater snowblowers I buy almost always have Tecumsehs. Maybe I should look at a new one (except they're all Chinese junk). The latest old JD didn't even make it through 2 storms!

[tommypade]

Thanks everybody for the answer

[zero]

The old beater snowblowers I buy almost always have Tecumsehs. Maybe I should look at a new one (except they're all Chinese junk). The latest old JD didn't even make it through 2 storms!

Some of the low priced Chinese engines are built much better then any Tecumseh was (and some are junk). When I went to vairous small engine service schools in the 1960s (Kohler, Wisconsin, Clinton, Tecumseh, Briggs, Homelite, etc.) I was blown away by something. I found out how much better small engine quality was for American engines when sold in Europe. I was told at the time the Europeans would not buy "throw-away" engines so they needed to be better quality then those sold in the USA and Canada. Most European engines had iron cylinder-wall sleeves, replacable main bearings, etc. Then mid 1970s Honda entered the US market with small engines and upset things badly - just as Toyota and Datsun did to American car makers. Honda engines were lasting 3X as long as most American engines. That forced some in the US to improve a little. That's when Briggs introduced it's IC series (industrial-commercial). Wisconsin made a deal with Subaru in Japan and started rebadging Subaru small engines as "Wisconsin Robin."

Tecumseh cornered the market with their "Snow King" engines for snowblowers. Cheap - no air filters, metal primer for cold weather, valves in block (flat-head), optional AC 120 volt electric starter, non-replaceable sleeve main bearings and aluminum cylinder wall. Now I guess there's tons of better stuff from Briggs, Kawasaki, Subaru, Honda, and many Chinese clones. I just bought a new Chinese 7 horse engine for $110 with overhead valves, pressure oiling, twin ball-bearing mains, and a cast-iron cylinder liner.

[tommypade]

Is the warrior have to have the front and rear bearing repack.

[waiter]

Tommy, Yes, especially if you don't know when the last time it was done.

John Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto

[Derek up North]

The Maintenance Schedule as published in the FSM, Schedule 'A' says "FRONT wheel bearing and thrust bush grease (4WD )" every 30k miles (or 48 month). No mention of REAR wheel bearings.

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/maintenance/1maintena.pdf

The Owner's Manual (1992 at least) is a bit more vague: "Wheel bearing grease (2WD)" @ 30k miles.

The FSM might be a boo boo by Toyota, forgetting the FF 1-Ton rear axle.

It makes sense to check the rear bearings out too (and the rear brakes at the same time).