Riverman77 Posted December 3, 2012 Share Posted December 3, 2012 Hi, I have a 1988 Dolphin with a Dometic 2401 refer. I do not know for sure if it is a 2-way or 3-way type or refrigerator. The selector switch can be placed in the "Gas", "Elec" or "Off" positions. I know that it works on gas and I know that the heating elements work when I am plugged into 110V power (and switched to the "Elec") position. Does anyone know how to verify the "Elec" position heating the elements with 12VDC (thus making it a true 3-way refer)? Or, perhaps someone may know right away that the Dometic 2401 did or did not offer a 3-way model? Thank You, Riverman77 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted December 3, 2012 Share Posted December 3, 2012 Hi, I have a 1988 Dolphin with a Dometic 2401 refer. I do not know for sure if it is a 2-way or 3-way type or refrigerator. The selector switch can be placed in the "Gas", "Elec" or "Off" positions. I know that it works on gas and I know that the heating elements work when I am plugged into 110V power (and switched to the "Elec") position. Does anyone know how to verify the "Elec" position heating the elements with 12VDC (thus making it a true 3-way refer)? Or, perhaps someone may know right away that the Dometic 2401 did or did not offer a 3-way model? Thank You, Riverman77 I'm pretty sure the 2401 came with the AC heater rated 295 watts @ 120 VAC (part # 17 37 54-01/4). The optional DC heater is rated 215 watts @ 12 volts DC.(part # 17 37 57-01/4). The models with AC and DC come with both heaters installed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted December 3, 2012 Share Posted December 3, 2012 If your selector switch only has gas, electric, it is a 2 way fridge. otherwise it would also have a 12 volt or DC setting. Most people just leave it on gas operation while on the road. Just turn off when you buy fuel and check periodically to make sure the pilot didn't blow out Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riverman77 Posted December 3, 2012 Author Share Posted December 3, 2012 Thank you "jdmaris" for your reply! New Dometic referquestion: As I have mentioned, I have a Dometic 2401 refer in my 1988 Dolphin. The electric does work, when plugged in and the gas side of the refer seems to function just barely addequately. I am trying to explore ways to improve the gas function of the refer. What I have ALREADY DONE is: adjusted the door seal to a snug fit; put in 2 battery operated "cube style" fans; wire brushed & vacuumed out the pilot light area. My question to post for eveyone is: Has anyone taken apart the pilot light flew chimney to clean and readjust the hanging dither rod - that hangs above the flame. I have been told that the "twisted rod" in the chimney needs periodic inspection, wire brush cleaning and finally, a proper hanging adjustment so that it dangles (so much of an inch?) the correct height above the pilot flame. Has anyone ever accomplished this? And, is this service a very important one, for maximum performance, that should not be overlooked? Or, does this rod adjustment need to be looked at ONLY during the major overhaul of the refer? Thank You, Riverman77 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riverman77 Posted December 3, 2012 Author Share Posted December 3, 2012 Thank you "Linda S" for your input. Gas is my main method of cooling, when I'm out parked by the train tracks. After your reply, come to think of it, if my Dometic were a 3-way it would "clearly" have 3 different selections on the switch...wouldn't it? So, I guess mine is a gas/110VAC model. Thank You, Riverman77 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted December 3, 2012 Share Posted December 3, 2012 Thank you "jdmaris" for your reply! New Dometic referquestion: As I have mentioned, I have a Dometic 2401 refer in my 1988 Dolphin. The electric does work, when plugged in and the gas side of the refer seems to function just barely addequately. I am trying to explore ways to improve the gas function of the refer. What I have ALREADY DONE is: adjusted the door seal to a snug fit; put in 2 battery operated "cube style" fans; wire brushed & vacuumed out the pilot light area. My question to post for eveyone is: Has anyone taken apart the pilot light flew chimney to clean and readjust the hanging dither rod - that hangs above the flame. I have been told that the "twisted rod" in the chimney needs periodic inspection, wire brush cleaning and finally, a proper hanging adjustment so that it dangles (so much of an inch?) the correct height above the pilot flame. Has anyone ever accomplished this? And, is this service a very important one, for maximum performance, that should not be overlooked? Or, does this rod adjustment need to be looked at ONLY during the major overhaul of the refer? Thank You, Riverman77 I've had the burners/chimneys/vents apart many times on all my gas refrigerators and furnaces. Gas does not burn 100% clean so the gas jet (orifice) needs to be yanked out and cleaned once in awhile. Here in New York we also get the problem of mud wasps constantly plugging up the chimneys in the gas burners. Anytime I get an RV that's new to me - the first thing I do it yank apart the gas-burning stuff and clean up. Your fridge works by heat-making-cool. The design does not care where the heat comes from. It can be from a gas flame, a kerosene flame or an electic resistance-heater. If your fridge was a 3-way, it would either have two separate electric heaters - or one combo AC/DC heater element. On your model #, it would be two separate heater elements for a three-way. If you are looking to improve it - the gas mode just about always cools better then the electric mode unless you've got a large optional 300-something-watt electric heater element. But the refrigerator MUST be near level to cool properly. That's the problem with gas refrigerators and camping. Not always easy to find a level place and not always possible to level a cock-eyed camper. An AC or DC compressor type rerigerator works fine no matter how unlevel. Also, on many RVs . . . if you travel on the highway at high speeds with the gas on -it can sometimes flame out - with the pilot-light types. Also illegal in many states to refuel at a gas station with it on. For travelling - I much prefer a compressor electric refrigerator - I regard it as much less hassle. The Dometic gas fridge that has the 12 volt DC option is extremely inefficient running in that mode. Might not mattter if as long as it stays cool and your alternator is big enough to handle it. It can draw 7-10 amps constantly and just about never shut off. A good compressor refrigerator is "off" most of the time. You can super-insulate a compressor fridge but not a gas fridge due to the venting requirements. The more heat the burner or element makes - the cooler it will get - IF on level ground. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riverman77 Posted December 3, 2012 Author Share Posted December 3, 2012 Thanks again "jdemaris" for your input. I too have heard of folks who drive with their refer pilot light on...and even people refueling at the gasoline stations, this never seemed to be a safe practice for me. There is this one member on here who posted a photo of a Chinook blasting off into outer space saying "Where no Toyota has gone before"! That photo pretty well sums it up for me, too. Other than fire danger, I have always been cautious to be perfectly level BEFORE even turning on the L/P gas valve. I'm sorry, but I should have mentioned that in my "new question" of adjusting the dangle dither rod. ****With that said, specifically, has anyone ever cleaned & adjusted the "dangeling dither rod" that hangs within the flew chimney? And, how important is this for best refer fuction?**** Thank You, Riverman77 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted December 3, 2012 Share Posted December 3, 2012 The pilot light really is the heater flame it's very small not much more then a candle flame. Both of the fridges in my MH and pull behind have not been touched since they were made one is a "90" the other an "87" both work flawlessly (if it ain't broke don't fix it) and if I don't turn them down when the weather got cooler they would freeze the milk. Mine has never blown out even in a gale force storm at the beach. The manufactures say "if you are comfortable so is the fridge" It drives me nuts when the camper is not level maybe that's why my fridges work so well. My Toy home had a 3 way fridge 12v,120v, and gas more often then not I just left it on gas it used so little I never worried about it. The cooling adjustment seems to reacts differently for each setting (gas or electric) so you may have to play with the thermostat depending how you are using it the electric one turns the heater on and off and the gas adjusts the flame. Both of mine have a camper side vent they are a bit harder for the bees to get into some vent on the roof if the bees build a nets in the condenser coil it could reduce the cooling efficiency but it probably would be down in both modes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waiter Posted December 4, 2012 Share Posted December 4, 2012 We use ours almost exclusively on gas. (switch to electric if on shore power) What everyone said, also, Couple other items; 1) If you remove the roof vent cover (or top side cover) you can get a flashlight and look down on top of the cooling unit to make sure there aren't any leaves, bird nests, or other critters setting up house keeping on top of the heat exchanger cooling unit. 2) If the frig is far out of level, cooling will degrade to the point that it won't work. the frig needs to be reasonably level. i.e. standing in front of the frig an looking at the front door, the frig needs to be level side to side. In most Toyhouses, this equates to the truck being level front to back. 3) the gas burner can get pretty yuky, rust and residue, as others mentioned, disassemble and clean. John Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5Toyota Posted December 5, 2012 Share Posted December 5, 2012 MY FREND ALMOST BURNED HIS SLIDE IN TRUCK CAMPER AND TRUCK DOWN STARTED THE REFER UP IN THE WOODS HAD A BIG BIRD NEST IN IT PUT IT OUT WITH FIRE EXTINGER Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gideon Art Posted January 6, 2013 Share Posted January 6, 2013 I have a Dometic refrigerator RM 2400 87 Dolphin, The temp knob that goes all the way to back of refrig is broke, it must be part plastic on the end where it go into a valve? for it will not reach. How to get at it? Anyone know where to get the part/replacement? It looks like the two knobs which is the gas and elect turn on and temp in front, would only come out one inch. Do I have to take it out of wall and how do I do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5Toyota Posted January 7, 2013 Share Posted January 7, 2013 if you cant get at it from outside you may have to pull it inside sory never done that job. dont no if you can get new maybe an rv shop might have to get a junk unit parts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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