stamar Posted October 7, 2012 Share Posted October 7, 2012 Autozone tested the battery as bad. I exchanged it. Thanks you were right I already killed it in a month. The onboard battery tester shows the new one as 3/4 filled just like the old one. I bought two led lights in amber for two of the overheads. 12 leds they seem much dimmer but let's hope they have a low draw. Anyhow I will make sure I only fall asleep to the led lights. Definitely will check the deep cycle at autozone every once in a while to be sure. This is a size 27 deep cycle 100 am hr battery the biggest they carry. Alway get batteries at costco its like they all have lifetime warranties so long as you turn them in once a year Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
90toydolphin Posted October 7, 2012 Share Posted October 7, 2012 every time i read this i can't help thinking the converter doesn't come into play unless plugged into shore power. if plugged into shore power it runs all the 12 volt plus charges the battery. when it's plugged into shore power the battery isn't used at all. at three amps charging it would take many hours to recharge the battery for sure. using 12 volt items while running the motor is using the battery and at an idle probably wouldn't supply enough to run the 12 volt items and charge the battery. if i'm way off please someone point it out, really, i have thick skin and i know i don't know it all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stamar Posted October 7, 2012 Share Posted October 7, 2012 you are right. my converter box is only charging the battery exclusively. It is not running 12v off shore power or powering the ac recepticles. it would normally do more than mine does. its either broken or a fuse is blown somewhere. I bought a couple reading lights because currently I wont be doing a lot of web surfing. Got a library card too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted October 7, 2012 Share Posted October 7, 2012 The stock converter charger has two circuits in it one charges the battery (poorly) and the other runs the light etc. There is a relay inside that shuts off the battery when it is plugged in and uses the converter to make 12 volt power it does not power the 120 volt outlets they are powered by the load center. The second circuit charges the battery while all this is going on the battery has no effect on the 12 volt system when it's plugged in. A group 27 battery at a 100 amps is about as good as it gets for a group 27 they usually are around 80 amps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stamar Posted October 8, 2012 Share Posted October 8, 2012 Ya in my laptop it lasts less than an hour. For this project way smarter to get another laptop. I also don't want to run the laptop off battery power I want the full power. Or also what could be very cheap is to get a volt raiser from 12 to 19:2 and skip ac completely. Laptops are dc items also they are normally 19.2 volts dc. Car converters could be an expensive way from targus. Or electrical shop Thats what's making the small battery in the laptop last an hour but this huge one last 4 hours is the dc to ac to dc conversion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stamar Posted October 8, 2012 Share Posted October 8, 2012 The laptops with low battery drain are marketted as ultra books now. They have ssd hds also now. Cost from 600 to 1500. Dell makes one too. They sell them at costco. Recomended not because of the deal they sell because you can get better online but their no fault returns where you can get your money back. Its like a new laptop for life. if I could power a laptop 24 hrs a day id get clear.com 4g internet for 35 to 50 a month. Then I would literally live in an rv for life. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stamar Posted October 8, 2012 Share Posted October 8, 2012 As far as my cell phone, well now I'm using it for internet mostly. I have six batteries and an external charger. Using a droid 2 for the internet the phone lasts 3 hours, the charger charges a new batter in 2: so you barely stay ahead. Plugged in it stays even but turned off it charges one itself in two hours. That is all the internet my rv can charge at the moment if that until I get solar panels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stamar Posted October 8, 2012 Share Posted October 8, 2012 Oh maineh in my case when my converter is plugged in it does not shut off the battery it just charges it and the battery powers everything. I bought two led 1156 amber lights for reading lights they are very dim and also sort of orange. I kind of like them for sort of stealth reading but could have definitely just got one. I know now I want way brighter leds that this for the other bulbs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eve "n" Stephen Posted October 8, 2012 Share Posted October 8, 2012 Here's what I bought, 7 of them actually. They are very bright, good reading at 4 feet away with the original plastic light diffusers on the old ceiling lights in place. http://www.ebay.com/itm/36-SMD-3528-LED-Light-Panel-Warm-White-Festoon-Dome-Adapters-144LM-12V-DC-/280986533757?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item416c1a3f7d&vxp=mtr They come with a bunch of adapters, none of which is correct for the 1156 type base! I made my own adapters by popping old bulbs and soldering the leads to the wire leads that come out inside the bult and hook to the filament, but it would be easier for most people to just hard wire these to the light fixture. I've been using them for about a year now. It's nice to have good light that uses so little power that I never worry about leaving them on for long periods. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted October 8, 2012 Share Posted October 8, 2012 Oh maineh in my case when my converter is plugged in it does not shut off the battery it just charges it and the battery powers everything. I bought two led 1156 amber lights for reading lights they are very dim and also sort of orange. I kind of like them for sort of stealth reading but could have definitely just got one. I know now I want way brighter leds that this for the other bulbs If it does it's been replaced. All of the stuff goes on at the same time chargers and provides power but the 12 volt power is more like 30 amps and the charge rate is like 3 amps that is why it has a relay to disconnect the battery charger from the converter, modern converter/chargers do not need to do that they provide amps on demand if only 5 amps are needed to run the lights and charger the battery that is what they do if the battery is quite low the output rises to meet the demand of the lights and battery charging. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waiter Posted October 8, 2012 Share Posted October 8, 2012 Steve - Looks like the ones I used. Can't tell the difference between a bulb and the LEDs. Same brightness and same color. I soldered mine straight to the switch and glued the LED panel to the fixture. http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=3943 John Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stamar Posted October 8, 2012 Share Posted October 8, 2012 found these http://www.ebay.com/...350428e&vxp=mtr and these http://www.ebay.com/itm/BA15S-1156-1141-54-SMD-3528-LED-Car-Tail-Stop-Brake-Turn-Signal-Light-White-12V-/180965929835?pt=US_Car_Lighting&hash=item2a2268f36b Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waiter Posted October 8, 2012 Share Posted October 8, 2012 Stamar - I tried those and wasn't happy with either the color (blueish) or the brightness. You can see the comparison of color in the second photo of this link http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=3943 John Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stamar Posted October 8, 2012 Share Posted October 8, 2012 Ya I'm no expert and the luminems listed are strange. I just got two that are 12 led and they're not what I want. But they're fine for variety, these are orange low light urban stealth lights good for just leaving on. You listed 36 led ones and they are all facing down which would be better But there's some that are 54 led. And with chinese shipping....I don't know lol. I'm going for two of yours that requiire some soldering. In warm And one of the high powered ones, in bluish its 540 lm. Ill leave the others incadescent. I have 9 1141 bulbs and two other lights and one in the cab. but having 5 leds is enough the others can be short timers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totem Posted October 8, 2012 Share Posted October 8, 2012 coming into this thread late and skimming it, my two pence : 1.) the cat vomit blue lighting does not justify the expense of the "warm" colored SMDs if they are an extra $5 per. Also the warm have less lumen rating usually. Solution: yellow cellophane inside the plastic cover works great or can get warmer hued plastic cover replacements from RV supply even. personally I like cat vomit blue. 2.) I got my peel n stick LED SMDs for almost free from a company that's well known to be chinese and late on shipments but hey man; my entire Rig is LED for like $15 and free shipping plus they sent me extra ones after i complained on ship time. Not one failure on these yet; several days non stop time on them. 3.) check the inverter; I had one go bad that would drain battery in 40 minutes. My new inverter has USB on it too; will run all day even while plugging my shore line back into it! 4.)the harbor freight panel kit comes with a charge controller that has USB and 12 volt plug; thus no inverter needed to charge phones and can run car laptop charger right out of it.. though I am not a fan of that charge controller 5.) mono crystalline tech is only good in Full sunlight and doesn't produce so well on clouds. Might be better served to find similar solar product in amorphous (like the harbor freight ones) you can always get a 20% off coupon code at www.retailmenot.com then search on harbor freight. they have a 15 watt panel for 59 bucks which matches your price gets better output and works on cloudy days http://www.harborfreight.com/15-watt-12-volt-solar-panel-96418.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eve "n" Stephen Posted October 8, 2012 Share Posted October 8, 2012 My experience is that the cheap yellow ones I linked to are just fine and too bright to look at directly. Also, crystaline panels do work fine in cloudy weather, although there's certainly much less energy there to be harvested, somewhere between 1/8th and 1/32 as much energy as full sunight. Amorphous panels work fine when partially shaded though, where crystaline panels don't. The catch to amorphous panels is that they are 3 times as large for the same output and, unless they are the peel and stick kind, also weigh much more for the same output. So, if you are parked where there's any branches or other partial shading a large part of the day, you likely are better of with amorphous panels. Otherwise, I'd go with crystaline. Size and weight are definetly considerations on the small open roof areas of our mini motorhomes! Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totem Posted October 8, 2012 Share Posted October 8, 2012 yeah; and any system worth its salt should have panels at optimal angle towards the sun also... I took those two considerations into account and decided that Solar was about the most bang, performance in shade and angle; the other 95% of the time I'm at a campsite or driving to one or boon docking where i wont have the time to setup solar. If you are camping in conditions (longer term) that require solar then set them up right; heck could make charging station outside that can detach but stays at your site. but I didn't really see a point in permanently mounting panels to my rig on non optimum angle in Michigan (often partially shaded) conditions. people may like the stick on panels onto the roof; but they sure aren't cheap and don't harness power like a properly angled Amorphous set will. To each their own. I agree with Stephen though; if i had fat wallet to blow I would get a sticker panel. My panels sit in a gun case the other 360 days a year where they do not take elemental weathering etc. I figure they will live forever. Question for Stephen: What are your thoughts on wire gauge for SAE 2 pin connectors. Everyone says the ones that come stock are junk and to switch out to 14 AWG or thicker for optimal transmission. This true? (I'm at about 16 feet wire run. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stamar Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 The panel might be cheaper but the amazon set comes with a large cable and a controller. From there I could add a couple harbor freight amorphous panels. And a sun blvd 20 watt poly panel all in parallel. All one at a time purchases. So start with the 10 watt for now. Definitely is a good thing to think about as I live in portland to have some of those amorphous ones though. When it comes to a 100 watt panel I think the price difference is bigger but that's not where I'm at. I've got. 60 watt system in mind. And the links I have show me a good 50 50 split. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stamar Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 I saw a battery powered led set with duracell batteries at costco for around 20. Seems like the opposite of what I want right why get disposable batteries when I have a huge rechargeable and 12 lights already? I've got 2 led flashlights that haven't needed new batteries in 2 years. Only one has a single led that burned out and it still works, So stick em led lights might be a good idea Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eve "n" Stephen Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 Since solar power is fairly expensive and the roof area is limited, you don't want to waste power with wire that has too much resistance (too small for the distance). There's a nifty voltage drop calculator at the bottom of this page. You enter a wire size, distance, voltage, and amps, it tells you how much you lose. Makes it simple to figure. With my 100 watt panel and about 12 feet of wire to the charge controller, I used 10 gauge stranded copper and only loose .8%. I could have used 16 gauge and would have lost 5%, but figured I'd be adding another 100 watt panel so wanted the larger wire. I bought 1 short plug in connector for my panel and cut it in half, then soldered the 10 gauge wire to it. Soldered connections are much lower resistance and don't corrode over time. I use shrink wrap tubing over the connections. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stamar Posted October 10, 2012 Share Posted October 10, 2012 I must say that even though I doubted him eve and stephen was definitely right. The new battery is doing just fine with lights and cell battery duty basically for days now without a panel or led lights. I just killed the other battery fast with my laptop and it never saw light duty when it was healthy. I went I think two days of bringing the battery to shrieking point, and then shutting it off but leaving the inverter on when I went to sleep brought it to zero. Recharged and did it again, and then tried to just give it light duty. But it was gone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stamar Posted October 10, 2012 Share Posted October 10, 2012 Believe it or not I have the spare parts from my inverter to hook a panel to the 12 volt rear recepticle Going through the rear vent. Its only like 3 feet from the recepticle, or its actually already there with the multi recpticle thing I have. Won't have to try and get my 250 pounds on the roof or buy any cable at all. You want to know something? I can literally put it on the vent cover and then point it at the sun with the cover opener. If that's not genious nothing is. Put one on all 4 vents and install it entirely from the inside. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted October 10, 2012 Share Posted October 10, 2012 I'm sure its been mentioned before, but a couple of things 1. For max battery life do not discharge below 50% of rated capacity 2. Inverters draw power even when "off". So unplug it or put a dc switch in the power lead to it. Your real answer is an additional house battery and at least 100w of solar. Actually you need professional advice on a complete solar system and then buy it in parts as your budget allows Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eve "n" Stephen Posted October 10, 2012 Share Posted October 10, 2012 My system is simple to set up and has kept up with everything we do. It consists of the following: Solar Cynergy 100 Watt 12V panel from solarblvd $145 Morningstar Sunsaver from solarblvd $44.46 Concord AGM 102 AH from solarblvd $273.67 I got mine on sale for $125 including shipping so maybe this is no longer the best choice. I ran 10 gauge wire down the ladder and through the plug cover for the 110V cord and have the charge controller mounted just outside the panel for the original converter. This route avoids any new holes! Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skydancer2992 Posted October 11, 2012 Share Posted October 11, 2012 I've started my solar project with a Uni-Solar flexible, self-adhesive panel. It is a 68 watt and cost $99 from Solar Blvd. I plan to run the wires through the seal next to the shower stall vent in the bottom right of the picture. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stamar Posted October 11, 2012 Share Posted October 11, 2012 That's perfect. How long are the wires that come with that and what's on the other end? What are those connector things? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skydancer2992 Posted October 11, 2012 Share Posted October 11, 2012 Right now, the wires are not connected, they are just sitting next to the vent. They are about a 18" each and have MC4 plugs. The plugs are about $3 a pair on ebay. I ordered a pair of 5 meter wires plus plugs for $20 (from Ebay). I have a Harbor Freight solar power control center. Haven't decided where to put that yet. The specifications are located here. http://www.uni-solar.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/PB_ePVL_Technical_Data_Sheet_EN_(AA6-3624-04).pdf Installation guide: http://www.uni-solar.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/Bonding%20and%20Installation%20Manual%20(AA6%203633-03).pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totem Posted October 12, 2012 Share Posted October 12, 2012 Nice panel! I believe the stick ons are amorphous. My aluminum glass harbor freights constantly get naysayers but I challenge anyone to make 3 amps on 45 watts like they do. Watts aren't everything; amps flow while watts are just pressure. Ideally you want high amperage too don't forget. I've seen huge wattage claimed with small amperage... Suspect . I love that 12 volt 68 watt at $99. Is it 3.xx amp? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skydancer2992 Posted October 12, 2012 Share Posted October 12, 2012 Yes, the Uni-Solar is amorphous like the Harbor Freight cells. I actually had bought the Harbor Freight panels for the RV but they will probably go on the house instead. The Uni-Solar is rated 4.1 amp under optimum conditions but the orientation on the camper will hardly ever be the best. Because of potential shadow from the AC unit the panel was placed at the extreme left. There is almost enough room to add a second panel with a slight overlap. Each cell seems to have an inch border inside the plastic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stamar Posted October 12, 2012 Share Posted October 12, 2012 where you placed yours is under a cage on mine, so some would be blocked. by coincidence its where the lowest footage is for the cable though. and then the cable just follows the pipe down to the battery box on mine. i would actually say thats huge for only 68 watts. but it fits like nothing is there. ohhhhh i gotcha your bathroom is forward. Same spot in mine is behind the luggage tie down cage. but is almost perfect for reaching the coach battery, and where my other coach batteries are going. im penciling in this set up now http://www.solarblvd.com/Solar-Panels-&-Systems-12-Volt-Solar-Panels/c1_269/p2671/Unisolar-PVL-68T-68W,-12V-Thinfilm-Roof-Laminate/product_info.html http://www.amazon.com/HQRP-Controller-Digital-Display-Radiation/dp/B002GIWMJG/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1350029751&sr=8-6&keywords=solar+charge+controller can you direct link the cables needed thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skydancer2992 Posted October 12, 2012 Share Posted October 12, 2012 Google MC4 cables or MC4 connectors or ebay those terms and you will find them for sale. $3 for a pair of connectors. My bathroom is in the back. The shower is the back corner with the wall between it and the stove. The vent goes up the false wall, which also houses the monitoring station. On the Uni-Solar panel, there are self-adhesive and non-adhesive versions. When I ordered mine, I made sure to put in the remarks that I wanted the self-adhesive one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stamar Posted October 13, 2012 Share Posted October 13, 2012 Well it seems like 4 go lengthwise like that apc 250 watts. Then there's. Lots of room for crystalyline panels all over but ideal on the down slope of the overhead going at 45 degrees 4 going like that can have 3 sets of the y mc4 things to connect to the one next to it then it ends in the battery box. 3 100 watt polys fit between the vents ad that is before you use the cabover area which would have....a few hundred watts 400 watts in ppolly panels. Something like 1200 watts fit on your roof without trying. So roof space is the last concern. By the time you've got 1200 watts in solar on your roof come back here to complain. By then you really are set Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted October 13, 2012 Share Posted October 13, 2012 I've looked at roofs and there aren't too many flat spaces to use that aren't interrupted by a vent, antenna, A/C or something else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stamar Posted October 13, 2012 Share Posted October 13, 2012 Definitely as far as shadow there's. Not as much totally free as what I described but as far as space. There is. I think putting 2 stick ems on the other side you need to move or remove the antennae Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted October 13, 2012 Share Posted October 13, 2012 Also varies with make and model. e.g. '90s Winnebago has 3 - 14" vents, Dolphin/SeaBreeze has 5. Plus, of course, fridge vent, plumbing vent(s), antenna, roof rack/ladder, etc. I don't know if current, new motorhomes are designed with solar panels in mind. Probably not, unless they're offering them as Factory options. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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