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could be 4.10, 4.110,4.30, 4.375, 4.556, 4.875.

here is a way to break down and read your tag IF the axle came with your truck

http://www.brian894x4.com/Gearratiosanddiffs.html

not that every Toyotas code was correct with what was actually in it but it is a good reference.

you can rotate your tire 1 full revolution and count how many times your driveshaft rotated- yes I know kind of hard so you tape a string to it at the bottom or top (to the driveshaft) and it will wind itself on it allowing you to count how many times it rotated

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Yeah it now has the 6 lug axle. I have not yet driven it but everyone says these are dogs and they want to put new engines in them. Is there anyone out there that regeared with any success? I read that once you hit overdrive its hard to maintain speed. What RPM's are people seeing at say 55-60 in overdirve with the 22RE auto. If I changed it to say 4.56 or 4.88 then that should help drivability but I don't want it screaming at 55-60. Just thinking it would help out overall with minimal loss of fuel economy. Also it might just improve fuel economy with a minor regear because you would'nt have to keep your foot in it as much.

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Yeah it now has the 6 lug axle. I have not yet driven it but everyone says these are dogs and they want to put new engines in them. Is there anyone out there that regeared with any success? I read that once you hit overdrive its hard to maintain speed. What RPM's are people seeing at say 55-60 in overdirve with the 22RE auto. If I changed it to say 4.56 or 4.88 then that should help drivability but I don't want it screaming at 55-60. Just thinking it would help out overall with minimal loss of fuel economy. Also it might just improve fuel economy with a minor regear because you would'nt have to keep your foot in it as much.

regearing is easy, pulling the axles out is a PITA. you can source gears from a 4runner for 4.875 or 4.556, just read its tag to determine what ratio it has and when you pull it out count the teeth on the pinion and on the ring gear then fig out what the ratio is to verify before you leave the salvage yard.

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Several have switched to 4.56:1 (~11%) and report improved driveability without hurting economy. A few have gone to 4.88 (~19%).

It would be nice if some of them could chime in with their results. My new to me Granville is going to be delivered to my folks house on May 4th. I am in Iraq and won't get to mess with it till I get back. Its good to go for my trip when I get home. very nice unit that was stored indoors. Tires and brakes are all good. The PO took it to the shop and got it inspected and a fresh oil change. He is dropping it off for me. Super nice folks. I will be putting a tachometer in it and I will check out RPM's and such. Then if I regear it I will let you guys know the results. I am a big Toyota fan and I have had 3 4X4 trucks. 3 Landcruisers. Still have an 86 FJ60. I also had an old 84 corolla. The Granville is super clean. I have lots of photos and 4 videos of it. I think I'll get an online photo bucket going and post up a link. I love these Forums! I join them for all my hobbies. I'm on Ih8mud and COG. Concours Owners Group for my 2008 Kawasaki Concours 14. This is the best place to get information and tips. I am also planning to tow my bike which is about 600lbs on a 200lb trailer eventually. I know what some of you are gonna say but I have read it all on here!! Now someone please post up some actual info on the whole gear swap thing please.

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A post from the Yahoo Group:-

I run 4.56 gears with my 22re automatic. In overdrive it purrs along quite

nicely at highway speeds. I don't notice any more engine noise than I did with

the 4.1 gearing. The 4.56 feels right - like it should have been geared all

along.

When you do need to be in drive at highway speeds you'll notice a big difference

as it is wound up even more in drive than it used to be! I now find it

unacceptable to go over 55 in drive.

As far as cost, complexity, durability, and availability the 4 pinion 4.56's

were used in the v6 automatic 4runners with 31" tires. These were very popular,

had fragile engines, and so the 4.56 third members are easy to come by. Even

better many of the third members got replaced to accommodate over-sized tires

and to try and make up for the too-tall overdrive and underpowered engines in

the 4runners. If you want one let me know and I'll keep an eye open. The swap is

super easy - I think I posted the process on here once. It takes less than an

hour from start to finish, requires no special tools, and can be done by an

average shade tree mechanic. There is no difference other than gearing between

the third member that came on the 1-ton axles and the 4 pinion third members

that came on the v6 4x4's. Unfortunately, the Tacoma and other next generation

third members are not interchangeable with our style.

I wouldn't go to a 4.88 as I think it would be too low. I do have a nice 4.88

third member but have not installed it for that reason.

As far as cost I traded my 4.1 for a 4.56 and so it didn't cost me anything. If

buying one outright it shouldn't cost more than $125 or so which is what the

exporters pay for them.

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A post from the Yahoo Group:-

I run 4.56 gears with my 22re automatic. In overdrive it purrs along quite

nicely at highway speeds. I don't notice any more engine noise than I did with

the 4.1 gearing. The 4.56 feels right - like it should have been geared all

along.

When you do need to be in drive at highway speeds you'll notice a big difference

as it is wound up even more in drive than it used to be! I now find it

unacceptable to go over 55 in drive.

As far as cost, complexity, durability, and availability the 4 pinion 4.56's

were used in the v6 automatic 4runners with 31" tires. These were very popular,

had fragile engines, and so the 4.56 third members are easy to come by. Even

better many of the third members got replaced to accommodate over-sized tires

and to try and make up for the too-tall overdrive and underpowered engines in

the 4runners. If you want one let me know and I'll keep an eye open. The swap is

super easy - I think I posted the process on here once. It takes less than an

hour from start to finish, requires no special tools, and can be done by an

average shade tree mechanic. There is no difference other than gearing between

the third member that came on the 1-ton axles and the 4 pinion third members

that came on the v6 4x4's. Unfortunately, the Tacoma and other next generation

third members are not interchangeable with our style.

I wouldn't go to a 4.88 as I think it would be too low. I do have a nice 4.88

third member but have not installed it for that reason.

As far as cost I traded my 4.1 for a 4.56 and so it didn't cost me anything. If

buying one outright it shouldn't cost more than $125 or so which is what the

exporters pay for them.

Wow! Thenks Derek! Yeah I joined the Yahoo group but it is not very user friendly IMHO. I like this place much better. I am taking the Granville from the Martinsburg, WV area to Key west FL when I get back. Pretty flat driving there. One hill to climb on route 50 coming out of Winchester VA. I'm just gonna get a feel for the rig. I'm starting off fresh with a new 3 row Radiator and trans cooler and 180 deg thermostat. I always take out the 195ers. I figure thats 15 deg cooler. Heat is a drivetrains enemy! After my trip down I'm gonna take I26 to I77 upthrough Charlotte into VA to I81. I'll find out how much of a dog it is then. If I'm unhappy with that then I'm gonna probably go with the 4.56 regear. Thanks alot!!

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It would be nice if some of them could chime in with their results. My new to me Granville is going to be delivered to my folks house on May 4th. I am in Iraq and won't get to mess with it till I get back. Its good to go for my trip when I get home. very nice unit that was stored indoors. Tires and brakes are all good. The PO took it to the shop and got it inspected and a fresh oil change. He is dropping it off for me. Super nice folks. I will be putting a tachometer in it and I will check out RPM's and such. Then if I regear it I will let you guys know the results. I am a big Toyota fan and I have had 3 4X4 trucks. 3 Landcruisers. Still have an 86 FJ60. I also had an old 84 corolla. The Granville is super clean. I have lots of photos and 4 videos of it. I think I'll get an online photo bucket going and post up a link. I love these Forums! I join them for all my hobbies. I'm on Ih8mud and COG. Concours owbners Group for my 2008 Kawasaki Concours 14. This is the best place to get information and tips. I am also planning to tow my bike which is about 600lbs on a 200lb trailer eventually. I know what some of you are gonna say but I have read it all on here!! Now someone please post up some actual info on the whole gear swap thing please.

assuming you are serving in the military- and not sight seeing in that shithole, thanks for what you do..

I am on Ih8mud too!! I have 2 80 series and a pretty cool 83 trail truck

if you are lucky you can find 4.30 gears which should be about right to upgrade for you. where you located?

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assuming you are serving in the military- and not sight seeing in that shithole, thanks for what you do..

I am on Ih8mud too!! I have 2 80 series and a pretty cool 83 trail truck

if you are lucky you can find 4.30 gears which should be about right to upgrade for you. where you located?

I am retired Military and no I am not sightseeing! LOL I am in the Martinsburg, WV area. I think I'm gonna go with the 4.56 gears because I'm gonna have some frame reinforcement done and a hitch so I can drag the bike along. I think it will be good. I don't need to go fast. Just wanna be able to climb the hills a little better and actually cruise in overdrive. I was thinking about a manual swao too but that will have to wait until the Auto dies.

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I am retired Military and no I am not sightseeing! LOL I am in the Martinsburg, WV area. I think I'm gonna go with the 4.56 gears because I'm gonna have some frame reinforcement done and a hitch so I can drag the bike along. I think it will be good. I don't need to go fast. Just wanna be able to climb the hills a little better and actually cruise in overdrive. I was thinking about a manual swao too but that will have to wait until the Auto dies.

thought I read you in Iraq currently.

a manual swap is doable, have to fool the computer. when you get to doing this email me on how.

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Are one of you guys going to warn him about using the overdrive with the exisiting gearing..

LS

I am retired Military and no I am not sightseeing! LOL I am in the Martinsburg, WV area. I think I'm gonna go with the 4.56 gears because I'm gonna have some frame reinforcement done and a hitch so I can drag the bike along. I think it will be good. I don't need to go fast. Just wanna be able to climb the hills a little better and actually cruise in overdrive. I was thinking about a manual swao too but that will have to wait until the Auto dies.

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4.30:1 is only about 5% difference. I doubt you'd notice a difference. I didn't when driving 2 MH with each, back to back. Instead of turning 3000rpm, you're turning 3150! Not worth the effort. IMHO.

If you want to read more from the same poster on the Yahoo Group, do and 'Advanced Search'. Author:- fsprandy. Search for:- 4.56

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4.30:1 is only about 5% difference. I doubt you'd notice a difference. I didn't when driving 2 MH with each, back to back. Instead of turning 3000rpm, you're turning 3150! Not worth the effort. IMHO.

If you want to read more from the same poster on the Yahoo Group, do and 'Advanced Search'. Author:- fsprandy. Search for:- 4.56

I am in Iraq. I thought you wanted to know where I live stateside. I'm at Camp Taji right now.

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Are one of you guys going to warn him about using the overdrive with the existing gearing..

LS

Not me. He's planning to upgrade his radiator, install another transmission cooler, change gearing and keep the speeds down. I think it sounds like he's got a handle on things. :rolleyes:

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I am in Iraq. I thought you wanted to know where I live stateside. I'm at Camp Taji right now.

be safe over there.

As linda said, dont use your overdrive with your existing gearing or you will be doing that 4 speed swap sooner than you think

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If you do plan on converting to a manual transmission sometime in the future, you may want to consider not changing rearend gears at all! For the current automatic with overdrive, the ratio is 0.688, 0.688 x 4.88 = 3.36 overall. If you go with a manual 5 speed, 5th gear is 0.85 (typ), 0.85 x 4.10 = 3.49 overall. Hence an improvement sticking with the 4.10s.

Regarding 1st gear: For the current automatic, 1st gear is 2.452, 2.452 x 4.88 = 11.97 overall. If you go with a W56 5 speed manual, 1st gear is 3.954 x 4.10 = 16.21 overall. And even if you opt for a W55 5 speed, 1st gear is 3.566, 3.566 x 4.10 = 14.62. Still much better; however, I would opt for the W56* (good for going slow on dirt/rocky roads up a hill, or just starting off on a hill).

Note: If I had to redo my automatic to manual conversion, I would have opted for the W56; however, at the time the $75 W52 transmission was there (and W56's are harder to find). To date, I have put on 12.5K miles on the W52 with no problems at all, and the W52 transmission is suppose to be slightly weaker.

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If you do plan on converting to a manual transmission sometime in the future, you may want to consider not changing rearend gears at all! For the current automatic with overdrive, the ratio is 0.688, 0.688 x 4.88 = 3.36 overall. If you go with a manual 5 speed, 5th gear is 0.85 (typ), 0.85 x 4.10 = 3.49 overall. Hence an improvement sticking with the 4.10s.

Regarding 1st gear: For the current automatic, 1st gear is 2.452, 2.452 x 4.88 = 11.97 overall. If you go with a W56 5 speed manual, 1st gear is 3.954 x 4.10 = 16.21 overall. And even if you opt for a W55 5 speed, 1st gear is 3.566, 3.566 x 4.10 = 14.62. Still much better; however, I would opt for the W56* (good for going slow on dirt/rocky roads up a hill, or just starting off on a hill).

Note: If I had to redo my automatic to manual conversion, I would have opted for the W56; however, at the time the $75 W52 transmission was there (and W56's are harder to find). To date, I have put on 12.5K miles on the W52 with no problems at all, and the W52 transmission is suppose to be slightly weaker.

Well I will be buying a third member with the gearing I choose either 4.56 or 4.88. I hope to not have to convert to manual for quite some time. May not do it at all if I'm happy with the regear. So I will still have my original 4.10 third to put back in if I go manual. Thanks for the info!!

Paul

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Well I will be buying a third member with the gearing I choose either 4.56 or 4.88. I hope to not have to convert to manual for quite some time. May not do it at all if I'm happy with the regear. So I will still have my original 4.10 third to put back in if I go manual. Thanks for the info!!

Paul

the toughest 2wd trans is the R150, if you can get 1 of those. the first gear ratio is 3.83 and it is virtually indestructable.

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the toughest 2wd trans is the R150, if you can get 1 of those. the first gear ratio is 3.83 and it is virtually indestructable.

do you know if there is a 2wd version of the H55 that will work with the Toybox? The landcruiser guys swear by that one!

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the R150 is pretty much the same thing- not in respect to it visually but the minitruck/supra and other Toyota guys who really know their stuff use and swear by this behind everything with any large amount of horsepower. it is bomb proof so to speak.

I have yet to do a manual in a 1UZFE swap, but 2 companys make a bellhousing to bolt them up to that V8 and stock it pumps out 280 HP- I as well as the supra guys who have built the turbo straight 6s and lexus (1UZFE V8s) up to well over 600 hp have used these behind them.

your 22R four Cyl wont ever break, wear out, ruin, stress, overheat aR150.

not real hard to find, and there is a newer version you can make work. will post that info up when I dig it up.

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Just to muddy the waters a bit. In the "old" days a lot of European cars had an optional O/D of 20%. Most of the time the company changed the final drive ratio, like from a 4.10 to a 4.30. You were still turning slower rpm in O/D but your acceleration was more "sporting".

So a 4.56 and a 5sp would follow the same logic.

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I would like to refocus this to regearing. If I do a manual swap its not gonne be for awhile if ever pending the outcome of my regear. So for those who have done it with a 22RE auto what worked best for you? 4.56 or 4.88? Also how far off did these mods change indicated speed and is there a correction available for that? I'm afraid 4.56 might not be enough and maybe 4.88 will be too much. Any actual stories from those who have done this?

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Based on what Ive read, the 4.88 is a good deal with the automatic. The mpg remains about the same, but its becomes easier to drive.

I DON"T know if it would pull OD hauling your planned trailer setup, with a trailer you might end up going about 55-60 with out OD. So if your trailering a bunch then maybe the 4.56 would be better. You might just leave it with a stock 4.10 and never use the OD at all, even empty. That's what most of the 4 cyl owners do anyway.

Ive pulled a 5x8 enclosed cargo trailer over a 9600 ft pass several times with the stock ratio. The possibility of not being able to pull OD with the trailer is why I stuck with the factory ratio as 80% of my driving was with the trailer, and 55mph just won't cut it on I80 through Wy.

The Toyota Mini Motorhome group has a gear/mph calculator in the files section. It will give you something to play with, in trying to decide.

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Based on what Ive read, the 4.88 is a good deal with the automatic. The mpg remains about the same, but its becomes easier to drive.

I DON"T know if it would pull OD hauling your planned trailer setup, with a trailer you might end up going about 55-60 with out OD. So if your trailering a bunch then maybe the 4.56 would be better. You might just leave it with a stock 4.10 and never use the OD at all, even empty. That's what most of the 4 cyl owners do anyway.

Ive pulled a 5x8 enclosed cargo trailer over a 9600 ft pass several times with the stock ratio. The possibility of not being able to pull OD with the trailer is why I stuck with the factory ratio as 80% of my driving was with the trailer, and 55mph just won't cut it on I80 through Wy.

The Toyota Mini Motorhome group has a gear/mph calculator in the files section. It will give you something to play with, in trying to decide.

Thanks! The bike and trailer will probably be around 800lbs. From your input here I'm thinking the 4.56 might just be the way to go.

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Looks right. Not what I'd call a bargain price, from what I see on www.car-par.com. $175 and up. And if you could find one locally, you'd be able to inspect it.

Yeah I hear you on that. I'm just bored and looking around. I'm still undecided on 4.56 or 4,88. I know you have seen my posts on the Yahoo group. I'm sure I will get more responses which will help me decide.

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It's going to be hard to find many who have back-to-back experience with both in a motorhome. And there really aren't that many who have actually done the conversion to either the 4.56 or 4.88. I'm guessing maybe a dozen or two, tops.

I'm going to hazard a guess and say that FSP Randy might well be the only person who has had the experience of jumping from a 4.56 into 4.88.

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It's going to be hard to find many who have back-to-back experience with both in a motorhome. And there really aren't that many who have actually done the conversion to either the 4.56 or 4.88. I'm guessing maybe a dozen or two, tops.

I'm going to hazard a guess and say that FSP Randy might well be the only person who has had the experience of jumping from a 4.56 into 4.88.

Well Derek. I think I'm leaning towards the 4.88 now. if I don't like it I can have my 4.10 third regeared to 4.56 and change to that. I'm sure I'll never go back to 4.10 again. I don't mind going slow say 55-60. But when I'm pulling hills I'd like to be able to go faster than some have reported. And being able to have some pulling power in OD will be nice.

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