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Reinforcing the frame for towing a four Wheeler.


mason

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Dear friends, I want to have my 91 warrior frame be reinforced to be able to tow some trailer with me. It is a 21 foot toy . i know that some of you have done it. Do I have it extended from the main frame of the truck(obviously) . I mean what kind of hardware do I need and how are they welded to the frame. Will have a shop doing it.

Thank you in advance for your feed backs

Mason

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I'm not familiar with these coaches, but they probably have a bit of skirting below the actual floor? I might suggest that if/when you do have a hitch built, that you might explore fabricating one that passes right through the bumper if possible rather than under it to help with clearance issues.

I might be inclined to remove the bumper and all of its extension hardware, build the hitch as high as I could and then custom attach the bumper to the hitch. This may mean having to cut into your skirting a bit.

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I'm not familiar with these coaches, but they probably have a bit of skirting below the actual floor? I might suggest that if/when you do have a hitch built, that you might explore fabricating one that passes right through the bumper if possible rather than under it to help with clearance issues.

I might be inclined to remove the bumper and all of its extension hardware, build the hitch as high as I could and then custom attach the bumper to the hitch. This may mean having to cut into your skirting a bit.

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Excellent, going through instead of going over and under.

I just remembered that it has rear air shocks. May be it is impossible and i should just be happy with installing a bicycle mount:)

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Here's some pics of a frame reinforcement on a Winni warrior. Lots of mods in this file. Frame stuff starts on page 22. lots of info.

http://f1.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/oM6MT7_f5TBkGg4TxGVZq4e_kbtqKCV1FgoEv2-wI8QcggmsTcCwmOfPPY3hxbzTFypIGe5Cj6sJn83nWWeLLyfcWwGN/Winnie_Modifications.pdf

From toyota-camper site at yahoo. You need to join the group to see I think

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/toyota-campers/

LS

Dear friends, I want to have my 91 warrior frame be reinforced to be able to tow some trailer with me. It is a 21 foot toy . i know that some of you have done it. Do I have it extended from the main frame of the truck(obviously) . I mean what kind of hardware do I need and how are they welded to the frame. Will have a shop doing it.

Thank you in advance for your feed backs

Mason

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Click on second link first and join the group. Then the other link should work. Toyota campers site on yahoo is the largest toyota motorhome group and many members here belong to it.

really not a problem to join and lots of info for you. The first link I posted is from a member there Lee. who did some wonderful modifications to his rig. A rig he took to Alaska and northern

Canada several times with kayaks and tons of stuff. Ya have to join the group to see it though

LS

Hi,

I clicked on the first link that you shared. The page said not found. is it my computer?

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Excellent, going through instead of going over and under.

I just remembered that it has rear air shocks. May be it is impossible and i should just be happy with installing a bicycle mount:)

I have a 93 winnie warrior 321rb and have had a 92 itasca spirit 321rb (they are the same).

Both manuals say no towing. You should have rear airbags not air shocks. The airbags are mounted parallel to your rear shocks. They do not add more weight capacity - they are designed to smooth things out. In reality these units are routinely overloaded and I suspect the air bags compensate for sagging rear leaf springs. note that adding "helper" springs is a problem because of the airbags.

I have seen these units with trailer hitches. Usually welded between the main frame runners and used to carry a spare or bicycles.

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I see, those black cylindrical rubber looking thing next to rear tiers are air bags . May be I just put a metal bar under the rear bumper and attach a hitch to carry two bicycle on it and give up the idea of pulling a trailer. I hate to damage the toy with my greed:)

Thank you.

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Another question. Can i jack up the rear tire with a 2 ton floor jack to take the tire out? I want to know if some one has done it so that I don't destroy the floor jack.

Thanks a lot.

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Typically, you'll have ~4000lb on the rear axle, so a 2 ton jack should handle 1 side fine.

There are a number who have towed a light trailer with no problem AFTER having the rear frame extension suitably reinforced. There are even a few who have pushed the envelope and towed a small car.

I agree with the manufacturer's recommendation about 'No Towing', with the frame extensions AS THEY LEFT THE FACTORY.

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Great now I can get to work. My rims are having some rust on them. i want to take them out and sand and repaint it. Any tips on that?

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I read some of the posts on painting the rims. Now i have to find high temprature hammered paint.

Thank you

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I don't think you need to search for 'high temperature' paint. Most auto parts stores will stock 'wheel paint'. Some like the hammered paint, which will better hide rust 'scars'. I prefer 'normal' paint and avoid 'silver' in favor of 'grey'.

Like any paint job, preparation is 90% of the job for good results.

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Right, not the high temperature paint but i think that i need to hide the unevenness by using hammered paint. But as you said avoid silver and go with gray.

I will post a picture of before and after. And also I need to find out the condition of the rear breaks while i am at it. I don't know how the drum break comes out. I will post a picture of the drum as it is on the truck tomorrow.

Thanks,

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Hammered paint is made by Rustoleum and available everywhere. I used dollar store wheel and tire cleaner and then steel wool before I painted. Tape tires or they will be shiny for a long time.

Oh and please buy the silver . Hammered finish is not that shiny and gray is yuck. Or buy both and see what you like better. Whats another 6 bucks

Linda S

Right, not the high temperature paint but i think that i need to hide the unevenness by using hammered paint. But as you said avoid silver and go with gray.

I will post a picture of before and after. And also I need to find out the condition of the rear breaks while i am at it. I don't know how the drum break comes out. I will post a picture of the drum as it is on the truck tomorrow.

Thanks,

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Right, not the high temperature paint but i think that i need to hide the unevenness by using hammered paint. But as you said avoid silver and go with gray.

I will post a picture of before and after. And also I need to find out the condition of the rear breaks while i am at it. I don't know how the drum break comes out. I will post a picture of the drum as it is on the truck tomorrow.

Thanks,

One pretty cool trick for painting wheels without removing tires involves using plain ol' liquid dish soap. After you're all done sanding and prepping the rim, really soak a sponge in the dish soap and liberally coat the tire with it but keep it off the rim. Then do your paint job. When you're all done and the paint on the rim has dried, you will be able to lightly scrub the tire with a 3M sponge pad and the overspray on the tire will come right off. The soap keeps the paint from sticking to the tire.

John

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Thank you Linda I will experiment both colors ,

Hammered paint is made by Rustoleum and available everywhere. I used dollar store wheel and tire cleaner and then steel wool before I painted. Tape tires or they will be shiny for a long time.

Oh and please buy the silver . Hammered finish is not that shiny and gray is yuck. Or buy both and see what you like better. Whats another 6 bucks

Linda S

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Great now you tell me about the soap. Mason do you have a full floater. If you do getting the rear drum off is not so easy. You need to pull the axle first. Big job. And if you do it you will have to replace the rear axle seals. After all this time just pulling the axle can trash an old one. Just want you to be prepared.

LS

Yes I see yours is full float now

One pretty cool trick for painting wheels without removing tires involves using plain ol' liquid dish soap. After you're all done sanding and prepping the rim, really soak a sponge in the dish soap and liberally coat the tire with it but keep it off the rim. Then do your paint job. When you're all done and the paint on the rim has dried, you will be able to lightly scrub the tire with a 3M sponge pad and the overspray on the tire will come right off. The soap keeps the paint from sticking to the tire.

John

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Thank you John that saves a lot of time.

One pretty cool trick for painting wheels without removing tires involves using plain ol' liquid dish soap. After you're all done sanding and prepping the rim, really soak a sponge in the dish soap and liberally coat the tire with it but keep it off the rim. Then do your paint job. When you're all done and the paint on the rim has dried, you will be able to lightly scrub the tire with a 3M sponge pad and the overspray on the tire will come right off. The soap keeps the paint from sticking to the tire.

John

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That is not good, May be i can take a pic from that little hole to see the thickness of the shoes i am glad you told me in advance.

Great now you tell me about the soap. Mason do you have a full floater. If you do getting the rear drum off is not so easy. You need to pull the axle first. Big job. And if you do it you will have to replace the rear axle seals. After all this time just pulling the axle can trash an old one. Just want you to be prepared.

LS

Yes I see yours is full float now

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Mason,

I have done some reinforcing to the back end of my RV for towing. If your RV is like mine, there is just too much over hang to add any kinda load on it. But if your pulling a four wheeler, you can beef up the hitch to take the push-pull force... (I'd really caution this even with modifications though, it is just not built right to take on any more weight back there)

In this thread you can see what I have done, (Post #32 and #35)

http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=4157&st=0&p=23433&fromsearch=1entry23433

Remember, the brakes on your unit are at the upper end of what it was designed for. I'm going to use electric trailer brakes to help me on the long hills and for emergency stops, but generally will be driving slower than normal when towing anything.

Hope it helps!

Andrew.

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Hi

What you did is great, a little beyond for what i want to do. My tongue weight is not going to be more than 80 pounds. I think that all i need is to strengthen the connection between the truck frame and the end of the toy. merely add and weld a c Chanel (3 to 4 feet long) and it should withstand the extra 80 pound extra.

Mason,

I have done some reinforcing to the back end of my RV for towing. If your RV is like mine, there is just too much over hang to add any kinda load on it. But if your pulling a four wheeler, you can beef up the hitch to take the push-pull force... (I'd really caution this even with modifications though, it is just not built right to take on any more weight back there)

In this thread you can see what I have done, (Post #32 and #35)

http://toyotamotorho...h=1

Remember, the brakes on your unit are at the upper end of what it was designed for. I'm going to use electric trailer brakes to help me on the long hills and for emergency stops, but generally will be driving slower than normal when towing anything.

Hope it helps!

Andrew.

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Hi

I couldn't register with them .

Here's some pics of a frame reinforcement on a Winni warrior. Lots of mods in this file. Frame stuff starts on page 22. lots of info.

http://f1.grp.yahoof...difications.pdf

From toyota-camper site at yahoo. You need to join the group to see I think

http://autos.groups....toyota-campers/

LS

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