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No spark


brentc182

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I think I put this in the wrong discussion so re-posting hereOk I have inherited a 84 toyota MRV Motorhome from the wifes family and can not wait to get it going. Here is the problem its been sitting for at least four years and the father in law connected the battery on backwards. I have replaced:

1. 50 amp fuse in the engine bay

2. 7.5 amp ign fuse at the drivers kick panel

3. Ignition coil

No spark' so to further test I have pulled both the coil wire and a spark plug to test for spark and nothing(except for a random spark right when the key is turned to the off position?) To be 100% sure I shot some starter fluid and nothing.

I have never worked on a toyota (just old scouts) and just looking for some other ideas.

she has a carb no FI

Thanks brent

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Well if the key was turned on with the battery backwards then the ignition amp is likely toast.

Find a Pick a Part and get another one and see what happens.

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Like WRE said junk yard parts it could be either the ign amp or the pick up. I can not remember when they went to a point less ignition but if it has points they were extremely sensitive any bit of oil, dirt or corrosion on the points and it will not spark, and after sitting for 4 years it's suspect. Being an 84 it may have been built in 83 any way you'll know if it has points if you pull the cap off.

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I'm not sure when Toyota started with electronic ignition, Its a module that connects to the coil. You may have also taken out the the sensor in the distributor.

Basically, anything that is electronic is probably toast,

I bought an old El Camino many years ago that had a small engine fire - Find a good donor in the junk yard, or buy and similar truck for a few hundred bucks.

John Mc

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It may have more problems but right now I am working down the line and first is the fact that no spark is coming from the coil. She was made in Feb 1984 and has a ign module under the coil(I will be going to the pick and pull to see if I can find a new one Monday).

Thanks for the response brent

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Brent;

Does the starter crank now??? if so, that's good progress. :ThumbUp:

As for ignition, You might want to look at the distributor also, There may be an electronic ignition pickup in the distributor. either get the entire distributor or pull the sensor out of the distributor.

ALSO - you mentioned you had a carb, but I bet you also have an ECU - and I'll also bet the ignition goes through the ECU.

There is a Factory Service Manual for the truck on the Yahoo group for an 85 and an 88, both of these manuals are EFI. ( You said yours was an 84 w/carb)

As you start adding up the costs of these items, consider purchasing a donor, if you can find a truck with same model year, engine, etc thats a rust bucket, you might be able to drive it home for a few hundred dollars. AND the fact that you drove it home, you know it runs. It would make troubleshooting easier,, and you'd have a complete source of parts. When your finished, call the junk yard to come and get it. (One of the risks of purchasing parts from junk yard, your not sure why the donor found its way to the junk yard, it may have had the same problem your trying to cure.

John Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto

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N Opoints late 1978 on the box on the coil is called the ing niter very well could be bad even the distubter also prebly burned diods in alternater voltage reg is in ternal very good if you can get a doner i and my son have had 8 toyotas betwen us some ha ve hinden fuse links a kind of meltable wire eletric digram will schow sorry i dont have as much computor ex I have the factory book cost me 100 dollors they made the carb 22r to at least 1988 had a carb one rear ended now have 22re fi that book covers both carb and efi they sold them as delux efi air full gauges or the 22r carb no air no clock basic gauges

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The older point systems also had an ign amp there was a transition there some where but I don't remember when I'm thinking it was the very early 80's. If it sparks when you turn the key it off it just means the coil discharged and that is what the amp and sensor in the distributor are suppose to do at the right time meaning it's not switching. I just remembered an other thing but I think it was only on the much older ones the distributors used to seize and shear the pin on the drive gear and then the distributor would not turn. Yeah I really am an old guy.

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MAineah you are an old guy like me that was the 18 rc they were not as good as the 20r never had one of those but have had3 20rs 1 22r 1 22re early Feb 1977 station wagen i had points late nov 1977 sr5 2wd pu no points and yes wagen used points to control ing box on coil points would last 5 to6 years only a small triggir current my 1978 20 r moter home no points have had a toyota since 1983

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I do not have the room to buy a parts rig, so I just have to find what I need. What other toyotas have the same set up as mine? "22r with carb" I looked and as far as I could tell the years before and after had some matches (83 and 85), but I was just looking at the ignition module not the distributor.

Thanks brent

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I'm thinking if you find an 83,84,85 with a carb, it should be good. SOmetimes I take a photo of what i'm looking for, print it on my laser printer, and take that with me.

get the whole distributor or just the sensor out of the distributor.

Find the ECU in yours and get a photo maybe a part number, when you get to the junk yard, see if they match.

If i find a couple candidates, I would take the part out of one that had been in an accident, verses one that had no apparent damage. The logic was the one that had the front end smashed in or had been T-boned was probably running when the accident happened. The one that had no damage, the big question, Why is it here if there's no visible damage.

Good luck

John Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto

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Where is the ecu located? I already have several pictures of the ignition module to take with me, and if I find a good donor I will most likely take everything I can just to be safe. Should I be looking at anything other than a toyota pickup? any cars that might match?

Thanks brent

Hey John I noticed your into long ez I have never flown one but they do look fun.

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as i rember the distributor and box and the coil are differnt for thecarb then the efi i would go with a whole distributor that box on the coil is controled by the distributor with a carb there is a lot less computor stuff to be damged by reverse polarity how is the alternater that most often burns them out check behind left driver side kick panel can be some stuff behind that one the efi ones they have computor there for the efi my carb truck did not have much in there also rember i said there may be fuse links that can be melted they are not like a regular fuse they are likea burnable wire sorry i dont re mber there being much of an ecu on the carb ones you got a new coil did you get with the ingter box that is what toyota calles it that box is probly bad as well

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ECU should be behind passenger side floor kick panel. (at least that's where its shown on an 85)

WARNING - Airplane Topic Follows :ThumbUp::ThumbUp::ThumbUp:

LongEZ is F16 performance on a Piper-cub Budget :-) Mine cruises about 230 mph, top speed 270 mph, At FL210 (eastbound) I get about 30 mpg with a ground speed of 250 - 350 mph depending on jet stream.

END OF AIRPLANE TOPIC

JOhn Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto

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I fly lears(35 and 55) and king air200's(in which the you have a good chance of out running) for a part 135 operation here in Denver. I've been a fan of the longez's for awhile

I will look for the ecu Friday and hopefully get to the pick and pull Saturday. I'll let you guys know what happens.

Thanks brent

WARNING - Airplane Topic Follows :ThumbUp::ThumbUp::ThumbUp:

LongEZ is F16 performance on a Piper-cub Budget :-) Mine cruises about 230 mph, top speed 270 mph, At FL210 (eastbound) I get about 30 mpg with a ground speed of 250 - 350 mph depending on jet stream.

END OF AIRPLANE TOPIC

JOhn Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto

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Just another thought we had a older ford with computer controlled carb & distributor would have been $$$ to fix, used a older point type distributor,coil,balast resister,and a bypass around the resister for starting and carb , it ran better then I had for years.

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WARNING - AIRPLANE TALK, AGAIN. :ThumbUp::ThumbUp::ThumbUp:

Brent,

The best day of my flying career was about 15 years ago, I was in my LongEZ landing at LasVegas McCarrarn. I was probably #3 about 9 miles out, mixed in with the 737s, MD80s, etc.

Approach Control calls;" Experimental LongEZ One Echo Zulu, I need you to slow to 190, your over taking the Lear traffic in front of you".

Lear Pilot;" Approach, Lear 1xx, What did you say that traffic was overtaking us??"

YYYYEEEESSSSSSSS. I wanted to call Approach and tell him to pull the tapes because I had to have a copy of this :ThumbUp:

jJOhn Mc

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That is great! It just goes to show you that some people just can't handle too much speed. The lear does take some getting use to typical landing speed is +/- 136 knots. I'm off to the pick and pull Friday so hopefully I can find what I need.

brent

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Ok so I got the used ign/module and she fired right up(not bad shes been sitting for over five years) sounds and runs good, but she will not idle. Once you take your foot off the gas she would just die. I did not replace the distributure or the emishions ecu, I think they are OK, I am just going to rebuild the carb and that should solve the problem? Anyone what do you think.

Thanks brent

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Also look for broken/cracked vacuum hoses.

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Could a broken vacuum hose keep it from idling? It does run very well if you have just a little pedal, I didn't even look at any of the vacuum lines. Does any one have a good picture of a 22r carb and the vacuum lines? The only carbs I've worked on are simple holley 2300's for my scout.

Thanks brent

Also look for broken/cracked vacuum hoses.

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Get a can of carb cleaner and give areas with vacuum hoses a little blast the stuff is quite flammable so be careful if the engine idles up you know you have found a leak. A carb overhaul on that thing is not for the faint of heart there are lots of little parts! An other thing you might try if you find no vacuum leaks is remove the air filter assembly floor it and slam your hand over the top of the carb and hold it there until it all most quits if there is some loose stuff in the carb that may pull it through. There is also a fuel cut solenoid that turns off with the key and it has a very fine fuel jet in it if it's plugged or has no power with the key on it won't idle

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A vacuum leak can kill an engine at idle. There is so little fuel/air flow through the carb a leak makes it go lean.

Its a lot simpler to look for a broken hose than it is to rebuild a carb. Then again you could have a plugged idle jet. Can you adjust the idle fuel mix, normally there is a screw adjustment.

There is a long shot chance that when the carb dried out a lot of the shellac ended up in the idle circuit. If you can adjust the idle mix so the engine will run, the fuel will clean out most of the junk and you could readjust the carb back to "normal"

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i would change the gas filter on a carb unit mabe up over the right rear whell and chevern puts out a very good brand of pour in the tank fuel system cleaner i just had a thought those wechincal fuel pumps have rubber diaframs long years of set makes them turn hard some times they show bad by not idleing some times they leak gas into the moter sorry i cant spell

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No one can spell now a days(we do not have to the computer does it) So as far as I can tell no vacuum leak. My next plan is to test the fuel cut off switch and I will let you know what happens. The truck run great(smooth and sound good) so I leaning toward something like a fuel cutoff, or should I replace the distributor? Could it keep the 22r from idling?

Thanks brent

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i have seen and worked on other makes that when the distributor got heated up after some time running the transtirs inside would open circuit kill the enguine than after it sat and cooled down in one case an hour then it would start and stay running for a while a friends wagoner was doing that and that was the problem i cant be certain in your case look to see you get all fixed also be ware brakes that set a long time most always start to leake my first car set nine years without being touched

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No one can spell now a days(we do not have to the computer does it) So as far as I can tell no vacuum leak. My next plan is to test the fuel cut off switch and I will let you know what happens. The truck run great(smooth and sound good) so I leaning toward something like a fuel cutoff, or should I replace the distributor? Could it keep the 22r from idling?

Thanks brent

Not too likely it will make it stop but it's one of those things either it work or it doesn't. Runs OK except for the idle? (your right about the spelling except I'm an old guy and never was much good at it so with out the computer no one would have a clue what I was trying to say!)

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Maineah i am glad i am not the only old guy on here i do strugle with the computer i am two years from 60 you guys are all nice thank you

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Maineah i am glad i am not the only old guy on here i do strugle with the computer i am two years from 60 you guys are all nice thank you

Yeah I'm on the other side of 60 by 5 years so I can legally claim "senior moment" and deny any responsibly. I have learned that if I need to know some thing about computers or cell phones to ask a teenager!

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Yes i here you there son one 33 son two 31 dauter 30 tech suport

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from the side yiew of the accelerator pump that is the squre thing on the right the fuel cut off solend valve is a round part on the left it screws in and has wires on it i had forgoten there is also a secondry accelerator pump it is round held on by three screws iwould check both accelerator pumps those diahframs are probly hard the aux one can be troublesome even in regular use i have had to replace the diafram bad acc pumps can effect idle take vac hose off acc one if gas leaks out get new diafram on the old 20 r itook the plunger out of fuel cut off solend and put on not working i ran that way long timemight disel i dont know if you can do that on later ones i was looking at my 1987 factory book had 1987carb only year and half rear ended i have 1 987 efi have had 3 20r carb car and2wd pu 1978 moterhome toyota carbs good

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Where is the fuel cutoff solenoid located and what does it look like?

Thanks brent

It is about 3/4" round and maybe 2" long and it screws into the side of the carb and has one wire hooked into it.

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