dayoff53 Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 OK here is some actual testing of various filters including the K&N. That was very interesting, Greg! It's nice to see some actual test data in a discussion like this. While the filtration part of the comparison is a little less scientific than the air flow part, it looks like a pretty well-designed real world comparison of different kinds of filters. I was particularly impressed with the fact that the most restrictive filter material had only a negligible effect on air flow (only .07 psi pressure drop more than the completely unfiltered test). While a K&N type filter did allow more air flow, the difference is so slight that I can't believe you could sort it out from other variables in our Toys. It also turns out that the common-sense analysis that there is an inverse relationship between air flow and filtration is correct. The K&N type filter definitely let more dirt through. While I'm sure this controversy will not die, when you factor in the cost and the maintenance hassle, I am quite content to stay with OEM-type filters! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee & Joan Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 I used to be a K&N avocate. I put waterproof grease on the airbox , air plenum walls downwind of the carb and filter thinking that if any dirt got by it would stick to the grease and I could then see that the filter was passing dirt. I never saw any dirt there. I wore out the stock set of intake valves and then two sets of Black Diamond Stainless Steel valves (always the intakes never the exhausts) until I got it through my hard head that I should go back to the Honda oil wetted foam filter (or similar Twin Air). I have put a lot more miles on that bike and have yet to have ANY valve resession since I went back to the foam filter, Granted that this is on a dirt bike that gets exposed to way more dirt than a street bike or Toyota Motorhome, but... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/kn-vs-oem-filter.html Little more detailed but same results. Oiled filters can kill hot wire sensors and will kill a hot film sensor (found on later model mostly European cars) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ynkedad Posted February 28, 2011 Share Posted February 28, 2011 Just my .02 I'm running K&N (drop in) filters in my Jeep and the wifey's Rang Rover for several reasons, one of which is they're re usable and I don't have to buy another filter... EVER. Performance wise.. I have 0 complaints. Although I had hoped for HP gains as well as better fuel economy... The reality is there are gains but, they aren't as great as you're lead to believe. Will I get a Drop in for the Dolphin..Yep! Why? Cuz I can! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bunneys Posted March 1, 2011 Share Posted March 1, 2011 Just my .02 I'm running K&N (drop in) filters Will I get a Drop in for the Dolphin..Yep! Why? Cuz I can! If you have not bought the filter yet, get the intake kit... Link:http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=57-9006 Drop-in filters do not offer any gains other than not having to replace... (i used one in the wifes 04 Matrix, no gains what-so-ever, other than environmental... I never used the kit on the 3.0L V6 (3VZ) but it makes a big difference (if used right) on the 3.4L V6 (5VZ) Andrew. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ynkedad Posted March 1, 2011 Share Posted March 1, 2011 If you have not bought the filter yet, get the intake kit... Link:http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=57-9006 Drop-in filters do not offer any gains other than not having to replace... (i used one in the wifes 04 Matrix, no gains what-so-ever, other than environmental... I never used the kit on the 3.0L V6 (3VZ) but it makes a big difference (if used right) on the 3.4L V6 (5VZ) Andrew. Thanks for the tip and the link! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted March 1, 2011 Share Posted March 1, 2011 ... it makes a big difference (if used right) on the 3.4L V6 (5VZ) Please explain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bunneys Posted March 2, 2011 Share Posted March 2, 2011 Please explain. The K&N filters have a bad rap (according to me)"IF" you re-oil too often and too much your going to coat things with oil that don't need oil and then problems might show up. Like bad gas mileage and lower power, then your going to say K&N are crap... Really if you think of it, the BIG cone filters have soo much more surface area, that they don't need cleaning at all for a very-very long time... I only clean mine when they look dirty. In the case of the Red Tacoma above, I have NEVER re-oiled. I do take it apart often and look at it and check the air sensor, I have cleaned the sensor around three times (mostly because i was board)I do think K&N does not explain this enough, I guess they want to sell the re-oil kits Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gulfstream Greg Posted March 2, 2011 Share Posted March 2, 2011 I just pulled the K&N Cone filter out of my Mazda B3000 pickup because I had to get it smoged. Was afraid it would not pass Visually even though it did pass 2 years earlier with the cone in place. But also then and now truck is / was running a Granitelli after Market Mass Air Flow sensor (because the OEM had failed right before smog check (passed with the granatelli 2 years earlier). (I like to tweak things and try different performance components) the truck performed like It had an anchor on the back bumper after the OEM Fram filter and air box install with the granatelli. Even with the granatelli MAS in place it passed smog. Here are some more facts. The battery had been disconnected long enough to reset the computer. So its first start up and running about 25 miles was with the K&N Cone and the granatelli Mas Air Flow Sensor. I then put the OEM (Fram) and air box in place. It ran like a dog. Even though the smog test passed with flying colors. I will of course be putting the K&N cone back, and I am confident that I will feel a performance increase. But a note here, the Granatelli MAS is really tuned for a higher air flow and as a result that tuning filters (excuse the pun) all the way to the computer of my 2001 Mazda B3000. Might not be the same for our older Toyota Computers. The dirt tests that I posted earlier on in this thread are in a sense microscopic results. Yes that extra dirt is making its way into the combustion chamber but it is microscopic, is it really causing more wear on the cylinder walls or is being absorbed into the combustion process and vaporized never making it to the cylinder walls? Anyhow My advice (2 cents worth) is if you really want to test the performance issue is to go out and do some specific tests with your OEM filter. Then spend the $30 and drop in a K&N filter, but disconnect your battery to reset the computer, then drive around for 50 to 100 miles so the computer can learn the new air flow and do the same test again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crasster Posted March 30, 2011 Share Posted March 30, 2011 I just pulled the K&N Cone filter out of my Mazda B3000 pickup because I had to get it smoged. Was afraid it would not pass Visually even though it did pass 2 years earlier with the cone in place. But also then and now truck is / was running a Granitelli after Market Mass Air Flow sensor (because the OEM had failed right before smog check (passed with the granatelli 2 years earlier). (I like to tweak things and try different performance components) the truck performed like It had an anchor on the back bumper after the OEM Fram filter and air box install with the granatelli. Even with the granatelli MAS in place it passed smog. Here are some more facts. The battery had been disconnected long enough to reset the computer. So its first start up and running about 25 miles was with the K&N Cone and the granatelli Mas Air Flow Sensor. I then put the OEM (Fram) and air box in place. It ran like a dog. Even though the smog test passed with flying colors. I will of course be putting the K&N cone back, and I am confident that I will feel a performance increase. But a note here, the Granatelli MAS is really tuned for a higher air flow and as a result that tuning filters (excuse the pun) all the way to the computer of my 2001 Mazda B3000. Might not be the same for our older Toyota Computers. The dirt tests that I posted earlier on in this thread are in a sense microscopic results. Yes that extra dirt is making its way into the combustion chamber but it is microscopic, is it really causing more wear on the cylinder walls or is being absorbed into the combustion process and vaporized never making it to the cylinder walls? Anyhow My advice (2 cents worth) is if you really want to test the performance issue is to go out and do some specific tests with your OEM filter. Then spend the $30 and drop in a K&N filter, but disconnect your battery to reset the computer, then drive around for 50 to 100 miles so the computer can learn the new air flow and do the same test again. Do you see any MPG increase with that K&N cone setup? Gas is getting mega expensive, even for the 22RE. May be worth it over the long haul. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supurcar Posted March 30, 2011 Share Posted March 30, 2011 They should make a K&N that fits the stock air box, so you do not have to buy the snout and it should cost less. I clean my Mass Airflow Sensor with Mass Air Flow sensor cleaner, it will help give the proper reading to the computer which will adjust the fuel mixture. There might be another sensor on the exhaust depending on the year of the vehicle, if this goes bad it could also cause the fuel mixture to be adjusted improperly by giving a false reading and tripping the check engine light. When my cars start to lose power or not running at their best I start by cleaning the dist. cap (knock the corrosion off the contacts & rotor), plugs, injection/carb cleaner, MAF sensor cleaner, and check the air filter, and fuel filter. If this does not help (almost no cost to do this), then you may have a bigger problem maybe a cracked vacuum line you cannot see or a bad oxygen sensor (I think there are two depending on the year). Just adding my two cents.... On the K&N thing, I have heard newer engine control modules or computers will compensate for cold air intakes, and even chips. So we pay all this money to get more air going thru the engine and the computer makes an adjustment to negate it. Given the age of most of these Toyotas in here I do not think we need to worry about this. As far as dirt and junk getting in, as long as the particle is not big enough to break a valve I am not too worried, ha ha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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