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All right all you torque heads (that's hot rod talk for those who do not know, actually, it would be motor heads) I have the famous rear wheel lug nut torque question that I must ask. I am looking in my 1991 Owner's manual and see some startling figures. Here is the torque specified for "Models with dual rear wheels" 170 ft-lb. 101 ft-lb for single rear wheel lug nuts.

I am assuming this is no misprint and 170 ft-lb is correct. My torque wrench only goes up to 150 ft-lb.

Opinions Please!

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The chart I found lists a grade 12.9 14mm bolt torque at 158 foot lbs max. I tighten mine with the tools Toyota provides knowing that one day I maybe the one to take them off in the middle of I95! I just had mine off and had to get my BIG braker bar to get them off,they were put on with air tools. I would recommend doing the rears after a short drive once again.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

If that's what it calls for that's what you should use. If the torque is too low the lugs will be subjected to fatigue load cycles and could snap.

I torque mine to 150 then use a breaker bar with socket and add a bit more. It's not rocket science, I just have a feel for it.

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With the Toyota socket and bar you can meet and exceed 150fp and still get them off with the same tool. An impact wrench on a 14mm bolt will quickly deliver 400fp, with a breaker bar you can match that. That is a lot of stress on a 14mm stud. I would not go much beyond 150 and expect to get them off in the boondocks.

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An impact wrench on a 14mm bolt will quickly deliver 400fp,

I always assumed that my air impact did not torque the lugs more than 90 pounds. So after impacting them on I put my torque wrench on and found that they were at least 150 pounds and more (wrench only goes to 150). How much more I have no idea.

Another question, what about the use of anti seize thread compounds. Good or bad? If good, good where? On the threads and lug mating face or what?

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Most torque tables assume light oil. I don't think anti seize is necessary what binds them up is the taper in the wheel and nut and excessive torque.

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  • 3 years later...

So I should torque them to 150 with my torque wrench and then add a little with my breaker bar. I almost had my tires loose when they torque it to 150 and spraid oil on it for easy removal in the tire center. Some of my nuts had only 20 pounds on them after 300 miles of travel. I was lucky to notice them. Thank goodness.

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Hi Linda,

I weigh 190 pounds.I should stand about 10.7 inches away according to my math.I should never spray oil on them again.

So just use your regular lug wrench and lean into it instead of jump. There's a time to be technically perfect and a time to just tighen the nut. The first time I ever removed a wheel I had to loosen all the nuts by jacking up the wrench with my bottle jack. If I had been out on the road without my jack stands I would have not been able to get them off no matter how hard I jumped.

Linda S

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I have a 150 pound torque wrench. If I torque it to 150 then I can use the breaker bar to turn it just about a quarter of inch then I should be at 170 pound per foot torque.

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My 1991 Toyota owners manual says 170 ft/lbs. To high for me, I have a lifetime working with hand tools on many kinds of machinery so I use the 1/2 inch breaker bar by hand method. With a relieved 6 point socket.

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