Recall axle - did I just get lucky?

[IdahoDoug]

So I bought a Dolphin FF rear axle a couple weeks ago, put it in my work area and moved on with the Sunrader project. Because I'm bringing some metal to a machine shop, I thought I'd also bring the axle and have the spring perches moved while I've got the trailer out.  Just to see what the shop will need to do, I crawled under mine and measured the spring widths, then compared them to the axle I bought.  Eh?  Same measurement.  Even has a correct bracket for the proportioning valve, though I'll need to get larger U bolts for mounting my sway bar (the Dolphin did not have one).  

 

Axle guru's - am I right to assume the spring perches are good?  I'm pretty sure, but I've never seen a video of a Toyota Fooly axle replacement that did not require the spring perches to be cut off and rewelded.  OK to pinch myself that the Toyota gods are smiling down on me with this one, or am I missing something?

 

There are no markings on the new axle except for an "N1" stamped on the rear face of the axle housing well above the drain plug.

[extech]

my swaybar connects to the axle on the back side of the axle tube

[IdahoDoug]

So does mine.  What does yours attach to on the axle housing?  A flat plate with two screw holes, or a pair of U bolts?

 

[Toycollector47]

 

 

 

just like that.

[IdahoDoug]

So, my new axle has that flat plate.  My old axle attached with thick U bolts to essentially the same position.  I'll have to do some measuring and perhaps I'll attach the rear anti-sway bar to the exact plate on the new one.  If you wouldn't mind - when you get a replacement bolt to fix that, I'd love to know the measurements, thread and perhaps a source?  Thanks.  And be advised a sway bar can experience forces of 20,000 lbs-ft so you'll want to replace that or something's going to let go.  

 

Regards,

Doug

[Toycollector47]

Yeah, my driveway has a slope to it, that whole project was sketchy to say the least.   Last thing I really wanted to do was get under there and be pushing a drill FORWARD down hill with it still on jackstands!!!!

[IdahoDoug]

Find a cobalt reverse drill bit, but yes - secure the beast!  I've always had good luck applying a torch to rusted fasteners.  Keep going till it's cherry red and you may have luck.  I also use Liquid Wrench as it recently won a competition against some much more expensive penetrating oils.

[thewanderlustking]

On 11/8/2023 at 10:54 PM, IdahoDoug said:

 If you wouldn't mind - when you get a replacement bolt to fix that, I'd love to know the measurements, thread and perhaps a source?

 

It will be 8x1.25 and however long you need it to be.  I would go with grade 8 or better.  Standard hardware store fare, car parts store, or a local specialty bolt shop like Fastenall will have it on the shelf.  Nothing about it is special.  Unless you get the old broken off bolt out of the hole cleanly though, a simpler path might be to just drill it out (or punch it out with an air hammer) and go bigger with a through bolt and nut.

 

But because the bolt broke off, you may be able to grab the backside with vise grips and continue working it out through.  There is a fair chance the bolt isn't tight in the hole, unless it broke trying to take it out.  Soak it over a couple days with PB Blaster if it doesn't spin easily.  

 

If you are going to try heat, you need a GOOD source of it, not a little butane torch but like an oxy/accetaline setup.    You would need to get the swaybar and bracket out of the way and try heat the surrounding area, not directly the bolt itself.  Heating expands metal and you want to loosen the bolt.  If this came into the shop, that would be my approach.  See if enough of the bolt sticks out and try to get something on it.  Try some heat, try again.  Soaking it with good penetrating oil between steps.  But I would quickly resort to blowing out the bolt and welded nut with an air hammer and then using a through bolt and nut.

 

When working on stuff like this (in general), I can't stress the importance enough of using the right tools.  Don't use steady force with a long ratchet trying to break it free.  Either an air impact gun hitting rappidly and fast, or a quality electric impact will actually get out most bolts that would break when done by hand.  If something is stuck, soak with penetrant, and short hits with the gun.  Sitting on a tight bolt for long bursts, will heat it up until it breaks.

 

I have a small Milwauke M12 1/2" impact gun that was able to take apart every single thing I tried on my Mini Cruiser including a full front end swap.   

[fred heath]

If you have a mig or tig you can use a 5/16 nut to remove the snapped off bolt. Just weld into place and use a wrench or socket to remove. Much easier than drilling and tapping a new thread.

 

A 50/50 mix of acetone and atf is probably one of the best rust busters out there. Cheap to make and better than WD40, Liquid Wrench or any other commercial rust buster.

[Toycollector47]

EZ out to the rescue now that I finally had time to get back under her!

 

So, Doug, are you planning on using the plates like the axle is equipped or the U-bolt system that will come off your old axle?