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Fresh water tank issues


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Hello all

I discovered my fresh water tank was leaning towards the outside wall. Looking from under side I noticed the floor had sunk down. 

 

One thing leads to another and I ended up removing the sofa, and the water tank to redo the floor. 

 

Lot of water damage, I am discovering as I fix things in this rig:  therefore the floor supports are gone and floor sank. Had to support the styrofoam from below and and above for the new plywood floor. 

 

Problem I am running into now is that it raises the water Tank so that the hose connected on the tank is higher than the wall filler end. 

 

I am looking to remove the hose connections from the top of the tank and drill a hole and connect the hose on the side. I understand side is not the ideal location. After providing supports for the new floor the water tank sits much higher than before.

 

Any ideas about the fittings and way to drill hole. I guess there will be crud in the tank after drilling holes. What kind of fittings and adhesive to use so the tank is leak proof. 

 

Generally I do not travel with lot water in the tank, not even half full. For drinking I use recycled jugs.

 

Will Appreciate any advise, recommendations. 

 

 

 

20230403_140804.jpg.a5a86abe1d396adc78be68b815c07e80.jpg

Support the floor from below20230403_122230.jpg.44406e0b9973ae178660438c084c918d.jpg frame for the new plywood to sit on20230403_122148.jpg.73d435e801772bf6c4e5224291937854.jpg20230403_121710.jpg.1710996268c2df4af8d1f5c2a89dcf63.jpg

20230403_122256.jpg.ac3ca093ac6872f0ad3df3bcc7981a62.jpg

This is after cleaning the rotted wood 

 

T20230322_122854.jpg.a88d9bb9ce2e93cd5039b872a3381b5d.jpg

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I advise not drilling a new hole in a polyethylene tank. The original holes and tubes are heat welded and you just can't get that kind of seal at home. Especially one that will stand up to road vibration. You wouldn't even know it had given out until after your beautiful new floor was soaked. If you don't usually fill the tank the lower fill shouldn't be a problem. Pressure from the fresh water hose you use will still fill the tank at least part way. Maybe wrap some foam around the outside hose so it fits tightly in the fill opening and forces the water into the tank. 

Linda S

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you could get a bigger outside door and move the fill higher

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I forgot to mention: one more problem I ran into by the raised height of the water tank: the sofa does not retract, the hose connections on the top of the water tank are too high. In fact this was the main reason for the thought of relocating them to a side wall.

 

Linda I see your point about leaks, I also thought of laying a water proofing membrane to contain, in case there is a water seepage.

 

I was looking into raising the sofa height couple of inches, not more, otherwise the seat will be too high but not sure if that will clear the sofa metal frame. There is a long bar in the back of the sofa which moves when retracting the sofa.

 

So far I have not nailed or glued down anything, until I have all pieces and problems worked out. Still in the brainstorming mode. Thanks

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Where is the out flow on that tank. Can you take it out and take pics of all sides?

Show relative out flow to fill in tube. Maybe there's some way to flip it

Linda S

If moving the fill tube is the only way these fittings look like they would work. Look pretty leak proof too.

Keep your air tube where it is. Probably tiny enough to not interfere with sofa. Current fill hole could be plugged.

installing pipes in rv water tank - Google Search

Must buy the fittings same diameter as outside fill hose.

 

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Linda, thank you for your help. I spent lot of time looking for the parts. I still have not found the elbow hose connection. 

 

Attached are the photos of all sides:

20230405_175247.jpg.f7c86485b4e1f70577b404588a834b6b.jpg20230405_175208.jpg.df0318d5db5f8a28ed458a5bb0e562e3.jpg20230405_175119.jpg.098fd6be35c3f2b2adf5b5f8a7369ac2.jpg20230405_175053.jpg.8431fd3de16ff74c36e2822d5cb2a64d.jpg

Outflow side

 

Second photo shows a unused outlet at the far corner which is vent hose size. I can use this as new outflow by adding a elbow and close the current outflow. 

 

You mentioned flip the tank. Well

I tried and turned the tank hose connection side away from the wall side and it seem to clear the bar on the sofa. See photo:

 

20230406_160353.jpg.c4c6e6ccb2fd249501125be997655d83.jpg

In this position sofa clears the hose connection elbow. However Still higher than the fill point at the rig wall. Fill hose and vent hose both will be much longer around 3'-6" long. I wonder if that will be any issue when filling the rank. 

 

Thank you.

 

 

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I wouldn't worry about filling the tank. The water pressure from the hose will get enough in no problem. Turning it and getting longer hose seems like the right option to me. No new holes, no redoing the whole sofa which I think would be crazy hard to do. You'll be fine

Linda S

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Install one of these...https://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/electrical-plumbing-lp-gas/rv-pumps-water-filters-fixtures/water-fills-hatches/recess-wtr-inlet-white-bu_10.0733.

Water pressure will flow up hill. One problem is refilling on the road vs a gravity fill.

 

Add some reinforcing on the floor from the outside, that maybe enough to lower the tank so stock fillings will work.

 

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Hi Linda

I removed the elbow you mentioned and other items, took with me the find the exact sizes. I plan to put them back. Thank you, you have sharp eyes. 

 

One more question: what to use to bond and seal framing parts of the new floor. There are several existing material like wood, styrofoam, metal and even fiberglass on one side. Something like liquid nails but works better on Motorhomes ?

 

WME and Extech

Thank you.

Adding a new waterfill little above the existing could solve the gravity fill issue. I will look into that.

 

Also want to get your opinion on several comments I read when I was searching on line for water hose: they claimed the corrugated water hose does not provide water tight connections and it leaks. 

 

I know in my rig they never leaked. Is there a proper way to install the  corrugated water hose and tighten the clams. 

 

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I've never had a problem using corrugated water hose for infill to tank connections. In fact I've never seen a rig without them.

As far as construction glue, most of them will work, all have some flexibility but I would go with a heavy duty. Make sure it's indoor approved too. I was looking around and this one sounds interesting. Strong and multi use but the interesting part is it won't stick to polyurethane. 

Your tank won't stick to it which is what you want. Don't want to accidentally glue the tank down.

Liquid Nails Fuze-It All Surface High Strength Hybrid Adhesive Adhesive 9 oz - Ace Hardware

Linda S

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