Kyla Posted November 27, 2021 Share Posted November 27, 2021 So my Sunrader is the version that the shower is plumbed to the (rather small) black water tank. I read on here at some point about changing it so that it could be hooked up to a standard garden hose and drained to the ground (if permitted by the location) or to a 5 gallon bucket. I would very much like to do that. Or better yet to have a valve on it that would let me control whether it went to the black water tank or to a hose - however I'm not sure if there is really room there to make that happen. I'm mostly completely clueless about all things plumbing. Can anybody help me with a 'for dummies' version of how to go about this? Specifically I'm wondering what parts would be needed to convert from the existing pipe to a hose fitting. I'm completely lacking in the vocabulary for such things and don't know what I should be searching for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted November 27, 2021 Share Posted November 27, 2021 Here is a pic of the shower drain Greg put on his Sunrader. You're going to have to get under there and look for that square notch in the tank. Shower drain should be above it. I really don't recommend a novice to start cutting plumbing pipes when the tank can probably not be replaced if you goof. Black tank will need to be resealed too. I'm pretty good at this stuff but even I have never attempted it Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToyoGuy Posted December 3, 2021 Share Posted December 3, 2021 Hi Kyla, Here (Below) is your tank, in the wild. If you really want to do this, you will need a capable handyman, (or woman) who has some plumbing experience, some WD 40, plumbers-tape, probably a strap-wrench and others, and assorted 1 1/2" pvc fittings and glue, a drill to mount the brass hose-fitting and an afternoon. A judicious allotment of beer might help with the handyman... Oh yeah, and emptying black-water tank helps too.... If you're motivated and still game, as Linda said, you could complete the re-routing for the shower like Greg and I, but you still need to cap the PVC pipe currently draining to the black tank or you're going to be in for some serious stinkage and possible danger, depending on your octane rating. The block you see on top of the tank is for venting black-tank sewage gas (pointing up) and accepting the shower drain-off (pointing sideways). As labled in the pic, the downward 90 Deg elbow coming off the long sideways pipe is where the P-Trap is normally connected to keep black tank gas from venting up into the stall. It should be threaded at the end for the metal P-Trap that is currently connected there, and I believe, when you remove the trap, you can screw on a cap there to cap off gasses. (It's been 7 or 8 years ) You would then cut and dry-fit first, out of PVC pieces and an elbow, the "L" shaped drain to screw on/connect to the shower drain flange coming down through the floor of the shower. (The same one the old P-Trap was screwed on to) Be aware, that you may have to thread the "down-pipe" on to the shower drain flange, before you glue it all together, because you may not have room to rotate the whole assy next to the tank to get a tight fit. On another related note, If a tank is really damaged, I believe you can still get a replacement (it's been 7 or 8 yrs ) here in California. (technical drawing below) I'll pm Linda, aka the oracle, with the whole catalogue for the archives. Stay well everyone, BR, TG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wadingthroughlife Posted February 23, 2022 Share Posted February 23, 2022 On 12/3/2021 at 12:35 AM, ToyoGuy said: If a tank is really damaged, I believe you can still get a replacement (it's been 7 or 8 yrs ) here in California Howdy! I'm about to purchase an 85 18'er, and the prior owner had suspension work done, deciding not to reconnect the black tank. She didnt use the bathroom, and thus told the suspension folks not to bother re-attaching it. Now, to get going with the toilet, we'll need to obtain a comparable replacement and install it. (I'm hoping there is enough down pipe to easily re-attached to without pulling the toilet or shower drain (is there a closet vent and a shower wall pullout needed too in addition to the shower drain and toilet drain?) Are you aware of the location to obtain the replacement, or is there a more roomy blank version that can be mounted and solely used for black water? I'd like to to the bypass on the shower if we're starting from scratch anyway. is this the direct replacement? (https://www.tank-depot.com/productdetails.aspx?part=R-59H) Would theses perhaps work with the greater capacity? https://www.plastic-mart.com/product/11038/trionic-14-gallon-holding-tank-wh-2014 or https://www.plastic-mart.com/product/954/18-gallon-rv-holding-tank-69h THANKS so much for all the info all have posted about this! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fred heath Posted February 23, 2022 Share Posted February 23, 2022 1 hour ago, wadingthroughlife said: Howdy! I'm about to purchase an 85 18'er, and the prior owner had suspension work done, deciding not to reconnect the black tank. She didnt use the bathroom, and thus told the suspension folks not to bother re-attaching it. Now, to get going with the toilet, we'll need to obtain a comparable replacement and install it. (I'm hoping there is enough down pipe to easily re-attached to without pulling the toilet or shower drain (is there a closet vent and a shower wall pullout needed too in addition to the shower drain and toilet drain?) Are you aware of the location to obtain the replacement, or is there a more roomy blank version that can be mounted and solely used for black water? I'd like to to the bypass on the shower if we're starting from scratch anyway. is this the direct replacement? (https://www.tank-depot.com/productdetails.aspx?part=R-59H) Would theses perhaps work with the greater capacity? https://www.plastic-mart.com/product/11038/trionic-14-gallon-holding-tank-wh-2014 or https://www.plastic-mart.com/product/954/18-gallon-rv-holding-tank-69h THANKS so much for all the info all have posted about this! IMPORTANT!!! Before purchase check to see if the rear axle has 6 lug nuts holding the rear wheels in place. If you only find 5 lug nuts, the axle is unsafe and will need an upgrade. This can easily run anywhere from $2-4K. You may have to pull a hubcap to see what’s there. Welcome to our forum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wadingthroughlife Posted February 23, 2022 Share Posted February 23, 2022 19 minutes ago, fred heath said: IMPORTANT!!! Before purchase check to see if the rear axle has 6 lug nuts holding the rear wheels in place. If you only find 5 lug nuts, the axle is unsafe and will need an upgrade. This can easily run anywhere from $2-4K. You may have to pull a hubcap to see what’s there. Welcome to our forum. Thanks! It's stated that it does have a 6 lug rear. Waiting on close up photo confirmation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted February 23, 2022 Share Posted February 23, 2022 The Ronco one is the right tank. The others won't fit. Small irregular space, there's just no room. Get under there and see if down spouts are still in place. There's also a vent in your closet next to the bathroom that needs to be attached. If down spouts are all there easiest way to make a pattern to cut holes in tank, they have to be exact, is foam board. From underneath press up firmly. If the pipes are at different levels. Cut the first hole and press up further until you have cutouts for all three holes. If bypassing the shower you will need to install a bend and a hose attachment on it. Greg the owner of this site did that to his. I will try to find the pic and get back to you. Linda S Sorry I know he posted a pic of his set up but I cannot find it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted February 23, 2022 Share Posted February 23, 2022 Silly me it's in this thread and was copied and posted by me. Just scroll up until you see the pic I posted of Greg's set up. Toyoguys set up would work too. All of this work requires a considerable amount of skill so be careful. Don't want you messing up expensive parts. Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wadingthroughlife Posted February 23, 2022 Share Posted February 23, 2022 23 minutes ago, linda s said: Silly me it's in this thread and was copied and posted by me. Just scroll up until you see the pic I posted of Greg's set up. Toyoguys set up would work too. All of this work requires a considerable amount of skill so be careful. Don't want you messing up expensive parts. Linda S Thanks so much! The shower and toilet spouts are still there, but I didn’t see the vent one from the underbody video.(would I be able to even?) I figure if the BWT is already out, I should go ahead and bypass or look at a reroute before getting the tank back in, aye. Along with the actual tank, close off valve, shower reroute pipes, and appropriate supports, what other component items would be needed to refit it? I saw mention of a foam seal, but I think that was for the actual toilet. I’m assuming a properly sized rubber boot that fits in the tank and gets sealant for the tube to slip into, but I’m uncertain. Is there a diagram or parts list perhaps? Thank so super much! Headed to pick it up in 2 weeks if all well. -Kyle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted February 24, 2022 Share Posted February 24, 2022 You can see the toilet down spout in Toyos post. Strange as it seems they are not sealed to the tank. Just the rubber grommet you see on his pics at the bottom. Is there still a toilet flange. Is it in good condition? If so you can probably just replace the seal. If not, you're going to need a new flange I don't have a complete list of parts anywhere but I bet there is a YouTube video of installing an RV toilet. Your tank vent pipe is in the closet next to the toilet. Remove the drawers if they are still there and look down towards the floor. They might have just cut it to get the tank out. Can be extended down with a coupler and more ABS pipe with ABS glue. You really need it in your hands before you try to figure out anymore. Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wadingthroughlife Posted February 24, 2022 Share Posted February 24, 2022 Thanks so much again. We’re also considering a composting toilet to avoid all this or even just run the shower to grey. I need to check the dimensions to see if it works. The Nature’s Head unit claims to be wet bath compatible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted February 24, 2022 Share Posted February 24, 2022 Composting toilets are very expensive, and I think they have more yuck factor than emptying a black tank. Running the shower to the grey in the back requires a pump to get the water over the axle. There are some pretty decent porta potties for RV's that have over a 5 gallon tank and actually flush. They are very reasonably priced. Little over a hundred bucks. Like I said, wait till it's in your hands. So much easier to figure out what you need and want then. Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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