Otolith Posted March 29, 2020 Author Share Posted March 29, 2020 4 minutes ago, fred heath said: WME, you’re correct. Lacking a 17 digit VIN, the chassis is definitely an 1980. The early Toyota ID plates attached to the inner drivers side fender also contains such information as engine type, transmission type, and rear axle type. When in doubt, refer to this information. Attached is a typical ID plate. That’s it! Actually on the inside of the passenger fender on mine. 1980 20r L43. Thanks Fred Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fred heath Posted March 29, 2020 Share Posted March 29, 2020 Otolith, you’re welcome. Not sure if you’ve addressed this subject. Does your rear axle have 5 lug nuts or 6? If you have duel rear wheels with only 5 lug nuts (GO82 axle), your axle is unsafe. You should have a total of 6 lug nuts on your rear axle. This is known as a full float (ff) axle. Hope you had the upgrade. Fred Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otolith Posted March 29, 2020 Author Share Posted March 29, 2020 11 minutes ago, fred heath said: Otolith, you’re welcome. Not sure if you’ve addressed this subject. Does your rear axle have 5 lug nuts or 6? If you have duel rear wheels with only 5 lug nuts (GO82 axle), your axle is unsafe. You should have a total of 6 lug nuts on your rear axle. This is known as a full float (ff) axle. Hope you had the upgrade. Fred Yes thankfully the axle was swapped to 6 lug including receipts. Just to derail this post even more: Anyone swap their L43 for the L52? I’d be curious if the swap difficulty as well as improvements in drivability Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fred heath Posted March 29, 2020 Share Posted March 29, 2020 3 minutes ago, Otolith said: Yes thankfully the axle was swapped to 6 lug including receipts. Just to derail this post even more: Anyone swap their L43 for the L52? I’d be curious if the swap difficulty as well as improvements in drivability I’ve heard W58 is the way to go. Supposed to be an easy swap. Elongating the tunnel shift hole is only requirement. I’ve never done this swap (love my L43), but a former member here reports every thing matches up. You will need a 5 speed cross member. Other than that, the spline count, transmission length, everything else should work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted March 29, 2020 Share Posted March 29, 2020 2 hours ago, Otolith said: The chassis has a manufacture plate that is stamped “2/80” but I can’t find a vin in the typical spots. Not sure if this means 2 of 80 or 2nd in ‘80. February 1980 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otolith Posted April 3, 2020 Author Share Posted April 3, 2020 Still learning the ins and outs of this old thing. Looks like some of the systems were replaced and are a bit jerry-rigged. Anyways, I have a water line leak underneath the furnace right where it connects to the bleed valve. I can't find much information on these old lines. What does it take to redo this connection? I'm considering switching the system something like PEX. Seems easy enough besides the really tight areas. Any advice from those who have done this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted April 3, 2020 Share Posted April 3, 2020 What ever you do remodel, repair remember Sharkbite...https://www.homedepot.com/b/Plumbing-Pipe-Fittings/SharkBite/N-5yc1vZbqpfZ4n3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otolith Posted April 3, 2020 Author Share Posted April 3, 2020 I was just reading up on that... Sounds like the Sharkbite fittings may be best option for now. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otolith Posted April 9, 2020 Author Share Posted April 9, 2020 On 4/2/2020 at 10:56 PM, WME said: What ever you do remodel, repair remember Sharkbite...https://www.homedepot.com/b/Plumbing-Pipe-Fittings/SharkBite/N-5yc1vZbqpfZ4n3 Thanks for that. After I fixed that one, I noticed the city water valve was leaking. Another thing to replace On another note, anyone have good solutions for relocating the propane tank? I have a diamond plate truck tool box I'd like to put on the back of the vehicle. But this blocks the propane access. Options are 1. Relocating propane in rv 2. Swing out cargo box 3. Relocate propane to cargo box? A bit sketchy back there. The access for mine is currently above the rear bumper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otolith Posted April 18, 2020 Author Share Posted April 18, 2020 Do these have different timing than non-rv 20r motors? Mine just has an 8, then it has an indented mark next to a raised mark but both of these are offset (to the left) of the 8 instead of directly underneath it. The vehicle is good under power but has a slight miss at idle and a tiny bit of wavering at idle. I went through the steps to set the low and high idles. Also, the compression was something like 160, 135, 155, 125 (I don't have them with me) Then wet compression was something like 160 150 155 145. I believe the car sat for a bit. Possible buildup issues? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted April 18, 2020 Share Posted April 18, 2020 I don't have the 20r specs handy, but a 22r is something like 170 lbs with all cylinders within 14 lbs. So 160, 155, 160, 160 is good. But so is 145, 145, 150, 150. Minimum is 120lbs. You have 2 cylinders with more than a 14lbs variance. Also the "good" cylinder showed no change with added oil and the "bad" cylinders showed a big change. Possibility of stuck rings. An oil change with modern oil and a 50 mile drive MIGHT unstick things. Or you could just have a tired engine. Good news is that you don't have 2 low cylinders next to each other, so your head gasket is most likely OK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85mirage Posted April 20, 2020 Share Posted April 20, 2020 pex is the way to go . Shark bite can lead to electrolysis when used with copper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otolith Posted April 25, 2020 Author Share Posted April 25, 2020 Thanks all. 4 leaks later and it works as it should. Maybe a stupid question... How do you know the Grey and black water tanks levels? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted April 25, 2020 Share Posted April 25, 2020 8 hours ago, Otolith said: Thanks all. 4 leaks later and it works as it should. Maybe a stupid question... How do you know the Grey and black water tanks levels? They used a 4 light system on a panel I do not know if and when it was optional but it did give some basic ideal. The water tank by design could not fill the waste tanks, the problem comes with being connected to a water pipe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted April 25, 2020 Share Posted April 25, 2020 This is a TYPICAL Sunrader wiring diagram. I have no idea if it applies to your year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otolith Posted April 25, 2020 Author Share Posted April 25, 2020 Thanks Derek you are a wealth of info. Looks like I don’t have indicators. Will have to do it the old fashioned way Any advice on where to put an inverter? My house battery is in the engine bay. I'm thinking about putting the inverter in the engine bay with a remote switch and an extension for an outlet. Thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted April 25, 2020 Share Posted April 25, 2020 As near to the house battery as possible to reduce voltage drop is the typical recommendation, but I don't know how well a typical inverter will survive the hostile environment under the hood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otolith Posted April 25, 2020 Author Share Posted April 25, 2020 43 minutes ago, Derek up North said: As near to the house battery as possible to reduce voltage drop is the typical recommendation, but I don't know how well a typical inverter will survive the hostile environment under the hood. Yeah that’s a good point... under the dash might be the happy medium Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted April 25, 2020 Share Posted April 25, 2020 (edited) Move the battery..🤡 Here is a wire size vs amps chart...http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/newsletter/images/DC_wire_selection_chartlg.jpg SO you can put the inverter where ever you want it to be, just use the right size 12v cable Remember if the thing you want to power from the inverter draws 3 amps @120v ac then the inverter will be drawing around 30 amps from the 12v battery. Your going from 12v to 120v which is a factor of 10x plus the losses in the inverter Edited April 25, 2020 by WME Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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