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Posted

The rear braking system is complete so other than painting the 3rd member, the rear axle is done.  Still will be pulling apart the leaf spring packs for proper cleaning and paint.

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Waiting on parts is the hardest part of a build.  Especially when they're coming from multiple sources.

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New bearing is in.  

And after some wrestling and triple checking schematics, it was done.  All seals and bearings are new, all brake components are new.

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Posted

The rear axle rebuild is COMPLETE.  100% new brakes (every part replaced), all metal stripped, derusted, rust converter applied and painted.  Drums painted black as well.  Overall it was a smooth rebuild other than getting the old bearing out and the new pressed in (without a press)!  I decided I am going to delete the load sensing proportioning valve, or possibly install a hand adjustable valve under the hood.  I have yet to decide.  

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Next is cleaning up the leaf spring assemblies before reinstallation.  They are removed and disassembled.  The U-bolt nuts took 8 feet of extension leverage and my full weight (185 lbs), before they finally started snapping.  After one or two wrestling matches, the cut off wheel was put to work.

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I had new grade 8 U-bolts bent up today from my local (awesome) frame and axel shop.  They whipped them up within 25 minutes custom bent, very happy with their service.  Compare the new to the old, can you spot the old one?!  jk

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Once the leaf packs are re-assembled, the rear end will be ready to roll back under the frame.  We are VERY excited!  

Posted

This is one of the cleanest builds I have ever seen on any site. One of my friends son does Jaguars for concours shows where they literally swab the engine with Q-tips to check for cleanliness. At the rate your going you might have the first motorhome eligible to enter one. Going to pin this thread when your done. 

Linda S

Posted (edited)

Thank you Linda.  We are very excited to see the build progressing.  It feels like it will be a long time until I see a finished camper but we are pumping through it!  I sourced the remainder of the hardware needed for the leaf springs today.  Tampa spring is an absolutely awesome place if anyone in the Tampa area ever needs this kinda stuff.  Excellent prices and very very knowledgable.  They do all of the work on heavy rigs (fire trucks, dump trucks, cement, etc).  The bolts were bent to shape for me while I waited.  

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All new bushings, rubber, clamps, and bolts ready to go.  I also brought the portion of the driveshaft with the carrier bearing to Tampa Driveshaft specialist since this was not a Toyota driveshaft support and I had no idea what it was off of since the RV company installed it.  They had a new one installed for me within 45 min, very happy with their company as well.  

The driveshafts still need cleaning and paint.  The leafs are ready for paint and then reassembly.  Once the leafs are done, the entire rear end will be rolled back under the truck and we will begin prepping for the wall rebuild and filon installation.  I also still need to figure out the fuel tank.

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Edited by Odyssey 4x4
Posted

Do the springs use Teflon buttons or pads at the end of each spring. Or is it all metal to metal?

Posted
19 hours ago, WME said:

Do the springs use Teflon buttons or pads at the end of each spring. Or is it all metal to metal?

yup, tiny little pads for noise dampening.  See them in the previous photo, they're the square black pads underneath the u-bolts.  

Posted

FWIW The current big deal for leaf springs is a 5-6"pad between each leaf at the U'bolts and a teflon tip. This way there is no friction between between leafs. Of course dirt will eventualy grind the tips down. Maybe a old fashion canvas wrap for the springs would help things last longer ?

Posted

Yup those are all badass.  The thought and ingenuity that went into the first one is amazing.  I will be reusing my wall framing from the old design so it will retain the same shape as the camper prior to the build.  I The front over-cab will have a rounded circumference rather than the sharp point they did in the previous design.  The sides will also be the updated flat filon rather than the old school looking corrugated stuff, I think this will really bring a much more modern look.  Add brand new paint to the cab, new custom vinyls, off-road front and rear bumpers, etc etc I think it will look pretty good.  

I could never do a canvas sided pop camper.  I like the feeling of security when I'm asleep whether it be in a walmart parking lot or the middle of a desolate forest.  Also, I imagine pretty poor insulation ratings from the canvas as well and I'm sure I'll be camping in some pretty cold temps more than once.  

Posted

I agree the pop top could be manageable as well as very beneficial (clearance offroad, fuel economy, etc), but we will be keeping the current shell design.  We will be traveling for an extended amount of time in this rig living in it the entire time and definitely need some comfort since we will also be working out of it, not all nights will be at beautiful camp sites haha.  

Today consisted of nearing completion on the rear end.  All of the leafs were cleaned and painted. They were reassembled with some wrestling. All new bolts, bushings, teflon dampener pads, lithium grease coated, clamps, you get the idea. The most labor intensive part was hand hammering the new rivets into the clamps but it made for some cool footage. 

 

After the clamps were on, everything was laid out.

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Triple checked that we had everything in the correct orientation and then assembled from the bottom up! Once done we put them back on to the axle. 

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And back on the frame!

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That's it for today. We still need to do some tying up down there. Sway bar reinstallation, run new brake lines and plumb those up, diff fluid, bolts on leaf clamps, drive shaft paint and u-joints, touch up paint in a few spots, etc

Posted (edited)

Stalking the RV section of craigslist paid off (even though I already have an RV lol).  I got a Dometic round stainless steel sink with the collapsable faucet and glass lid for $75, it's still on amazon for $485!  I won't be needing it for a while considering where I'm at with the build but it will be sweet when it comes time.

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Edited by Odyssey 4x4
Posted
3 minutes ago, linda s said:

Wow that's a nice sink. I would have bought it too. 

Linda S

now I gotta wait for a nice new oven to be posted ?

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

A quick update on some work done.  A 45 gallon RecPro fresh water tank was ordered.  It is being placed under the belly of the truck right in the center above the driveshaft.  The driveshaft angle and travel distance was measured and confirmed not to interfere with the location of the tank.  This is a great location for the tank considering even front/rear side/side weight distribution.  I went with the large 45 gallon tank considering I will be boon docking for extended amounts of time while traveling and water capacity is one of the higher priorities in the build.  

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The tank will be insulated as well as heated via a Facon 12V heating pad stuck to the belly of the tank.  The heating pad will be wired to a switch inside the truck.  When switched on, the pad automatically turns on at 45 deg F to prevent freezing, and off once temp reached 68 deg.  There will be a pad on the fresh water tank as well as the gray.

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We decided on reinstalling the factory fuel tank.  With the tank out of the truck we measured its capacity to be about 23 gallons via manually filling it.  This is confusing to me as the 1990 Toyota 4x4 shows having a tank capacity of around 17 gallons.  My tank even looks exactly the same as replacement tanks online, so I am pretty sure it's the factory tank.  The gallon difference confuses me if anyone has any ideas?

The tank was cleaned, painted and 3M coated.  A new fuel pump will also be installed.  

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For added fuel capacity, we are planning on installing a secondary auxiliary tank behind the factory tank since there is sufficient room.  The aux tank will be 5-7 gallons.  We will add a filler cap for the aux tank next to the main fill in a locking compartment.  The reason for the secondary tank is not only added fuel capacity, but to carry higher octane petrol for my motorcycle I will be bringing.  

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The aux tank will have a small 12v pump attached on a switch.  When the switch is activated, the pump will bring the tank line to pressure and there will be an aux fill hose located in in the locking compartment with the filler neck as well as an electronic gauge for the aux fuel level.  This will be for filling the motorcycle or transferring fuel to the OEM truck tank if need be or whatever else.  We have not decided 100% on this aux fuel option but we are likely going that route.  

Another reason for the hidden aux tank is to avoid theft.  I considered jerry cans on the rear of the truck or a rotopax can but those options attract too many dishonest eyes.  Under the truck will also keep out of the sun/ elements.  

Once the install of the fresh water tank is complete as well as aux fuel tank/fuel lines/ brake lines/ etc, we can begin prepping for floor install and then walls.  There is no need for a black water tank as I will be using a cassette style toilet.  I'd love to do a heated floor but it sounds too complicated to mess with!  I see electric pads needing too much electricity, and using heated water too complicated running the lines under the floor with a pump system.  I would also have to lose some headroom and I am already nearly too tall for the camper!  

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Posted
46 minutes ago, Derek up North said:

Seems kind of HOT to me!

 

Implying 68 is too high? 

Posted

Very true!  Not sure I can tweak the automatic settings in the built in thermostat.  Can always flip switch off when not needed

Posted

It probably comes on at 45 to make less work for the heater in comparison to 32 deg.  

Posted

So what’s your theory on their temp choices for on/off?

Posted

T-stat measures off of ambient air temp since its outside of tank, I guess that explains it 

Posted

" Sensor electronically monitors the outside ambient temperature, activates the system when temperatures fall to 35°F (1.6°C), shuts down the system when temperatures rise to 45°F (7.2°C) "

More reasonable. But 45F is still shorts & T-shirt weather to me! :)

https://www.annodindustries.com/shop/shop/heaters-and-warmers/rv-and-marine/accessories-packages.html

Posted

A Florida boy like me would be would be wrapped in 10 coats!  

Posted

If its raining its warm...

Posted
2 hours ago, WME said:

If its raining its warm...

I don’t get it 

Posted

Haha thanks for clearing it up!  You can tell I’m from Florida

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Lots of great work done lately.  The truck is running again with the new fuel pump and fuel lines ran.  All new brake lines ran as well!  Water tank is mounted and partially insulated.  We had a great time trying to figure out why the pump wasn't getting 12v after the work done although it was fine before.  We jumped the wires in the diagnostic port to bypass the fuel pump relay and BAM, 12v at pump.  Somehow during the work the fuel pump relay had failed.  It was removed and cleaned and put back in and worked as it should.  The replacement relays are $120 so I ordered another spare off of ebay since this one seems to be okay now.  

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Rather than typing a bunch up and lots of pics, here's a link to my newest youtube video giving a breakdown of the recent work and future plans!  

       https://youtu.be/_rPcW6H7BWA

Also, Santa brought us a Thetford C402C Cassette toilet for the build!  Couldn't be more excited.  Due to a lack of information online about the Thetford I went ahead and made an unboxing video.  

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Check out the unboxing here if interested!  

https://youtu.be/UPdcdY2ULuI

We are now planning the spare fuel tank setup and after that, flooring installation begins.  I need to source a good marine plywood source in the Tampa area!  

 

 

 

 

 

Posted

About a million boats near Tampa so lots of boat repair shops. Call around and ask if anyone will steer you to a top notch supplier for the plywood. About the fuel tank. Toyota didn't put the tank there. Odyssey must have. The 4x4's came with a 19 gallon tank. Also possible that it's a custom tank made by Aero. They did the custom 25 or 26 gallon tanks in Sunrader 4x4's and in 90 they were still in business not far from the Odyssey plant in San Bernardino. A few people with the larger tanks have said they really measured out at 23 gallons. Oh and of course very nice work

Linda S

Posted
3 hours ago, linda s said:

About a million boats near Tampa so lots of boat repair shops. Call around and ask if anyone will steer you to a top notch supplier for the plywood. About the fuel tank. Toyota didn't put the tank there. Odyssey must have. The 4x4's came with a 19 gallon tank. Also possible that it's a custom tank made by Aero. They did the custom 25 or 26 gallon tanks in Sunrader 4x4's and in 90 they were still in business not far from the Odyssey plant in San Bernardino. A few people with the larger tanks have said they really measured out at 23 gallons. Oh and of course very nice work

Linda S

I've compared the tank that's in the odyssey to the tank for the 1990 4x4 Toyota and it looks like the exact same tank to me looking at photos online.  I think Odyssey just repositioned it to the rear and extended fuel lines and tapped in the line for the generator.  

2 hours ago, WME said:

I'll likely be checking with Marine supply as a lot of reviews mention low quality wood from the big box stores or not "true" marine grade.  We will see!  

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