Jump to content

3-way fridge RM2354


Recommended Posts

So I picked up this lightly used Dometic RM2354 it is an automatic fridge meaning it will switch from LP to ac or dc. And a little led display that show what setting you are on. The manual says it must be hooked up to 12v to run. (I assume for the automatic setting) my question is does anyone have a fridge like that and when running off of LP how much power is it still pulling from my coach battery? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the dc runs the control panel, control circuits, electric ignition, you need it all the time. the dc power use is negligible until both lp and ac are not available. then it uses dc for actual cooling and consumes something like 4-5a while it needs to cool (once every few hours).

Edited by neubie
Link to comment
Share on other sites

A 3 way Dometic  operating on propane will draw about 300ma at idle and 800ma when the gas valve is on.

Totally WAG average 500ma for 24 hours would be 12AH, of course in warmer weather the flame runs more so 20AH is possible.

Edited by WME
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Lol, so it will run off my 1 12v marine battery for a 2 or 3 day weekend or I need to figure something else out?

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

WME, those numbers look a bit off. I cant imagine the absorption running at 10W, the controls, may be. Absorption is rated something like 175W. The energy has to come from somewhere.

I have only tested the 24 series and not 23. But that eats 5-10W just for the controls.

edit: google search quote "When the Dometic refrigerator operates on AC or DC, It uses heating elements (different one for 12 and 110 volts) to heat the ammonia in the refrigerator.  When operating the refrigerator using 12 volts, this heating element operates at about 12.5 amps. That is a good amount of current."

edit2: i think WME meant cooling by LP (not by dc) but operating on DC  normal operation. then his numbers are right and i am dumb.
 

Edited by neubie
Link to comment
Share on other sites

86Dolphino, you can run your controller board for the fridge on your battery for a good long time, depending on your battery.

Going off of WME's numbers, in a worst case scenario your controller board might pull 20AH a day.  So, for a 3 day weekend, you're probably looking at less than 60AH.  I wouldn't run it on a battery that had less than 125AH, but that is just me being scared of killing batteries.

Of course, I could still be totally wrong, as you don't have to fully understand your electrical storage system for it to work. ;)

Good luck!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes control board only uses about .8 amps so that comes to just under 20amps a day. So glad I don't have an automatic one. Even though that's not a massive amount of power your using other things too when boondocking and it all adds up

Linda S

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you have a fridge with a push button lighter for the gas (like a BBQ grill) it uses no electricity on gas. The ones with lights in a panel require DC to operate the panel and the gas valve. Running a fridge directly on DC will kill your battery in short order it takes a lot of current to run the heating element. The AC side of my old one drew 175 watts I never checked the DC side but in order to make the same heat it should be very close to the AC heater meaning close to 14 amps DC! The amount of time on DC controlled gas is real dependent on ambient temp so it's current draw varies a lot with weather. I fully agree with Linda the old push button fridge can't be beat!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I loved my old original one but it stopped getting cold enough. This new one made ice in 8 hours from being off. And my battery gauge hasn't moved so trays nice. 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

SOLAR is the answer, a simple single 100w panel will deliver 30-40AH a day. A 100w kit is under $150

Link to comment
Share on other sites

WME that's my next purchase I got a guy selling me his two 100w each renogy panels with controller cables and all for 150. I just got to wait for some more cash to come my way. Figure next week or two. That really starts me into my next question I wanted to research and have seen some talk on the best way to afix the panels to the roof for I dont want to drill holes 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

My Norcold fridge is also propane/A/C (but not DC) with automatic controls and automatic switching.  The installation manual says it requires between 15.4v(max) and 10.5v (min) to operate correctly.  It says to wire it with #18 wire and a 6 amp fuse. 

A house battery can be way down, almost dead, and still make 10.5v.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yes I have since had a chance to use my fridge and I love it. no issues on power. I have just one marine battery. its nice to be able to keep a few things cold now.

 

I have my old fridge and I'm not sure what to do with it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I have an automatic 3way , it will only run on DC if the engine is running like when you're traveling to some place, so you don't have to worry about draining the house battery.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

mine has a electronic display that needs to be powered on to run. but its such a small voltage it doesn't make a difference. I am very happy with the fridge and for 300 I feel like I got a great deal.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...