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Hi folks. Spent some time scrolling through various threads but life is short. So, I will jump the line and ask my question. I have a 1983 shorty Sunrader with 22r and a 4spd manual. The rest axle is out of an 87 and has a 4:88 rear end. I would like to swop in a 5spd. What are the options beyond the L52? What years of 4Runners would have comparable transmissions? The more options I have (years/vehicles) the more likely I can find one locally.

Ouch! 10.5 mpg out of a 4Runner? I have 3 of them,… the closest I get to that mileage is with my 87 22-RE, 5 speed manual, on 36” tires at about 12mpg. My 85 22-RE automatic on 31s gets around 16-17 mpg lastly my 93 3vze manual again on 31s with a burned valve on #3 still gets between 13-14mpg! Of course my 19 Tacoma is the best at 21mpg…. (Yes I currently own 5 Toyotas) So, I’m taking it the mini cruiser is 22re, and the 4Runner is 3vze? Youre absolutely certain it’s electrical causing the poor mileage? my 93 had the tensioner bearing go out on the timing belt and it slipped a couple teeth,… still ran fine, but completely crapped out for power. I didn’t drive it long enough to see a change of mileage…. (Literally just home then diagnosed and repaired)

On the automatic trucks the ones that came with the Turbo 22RE were a bit beefier, I imagine the same will be true on the manual ones. This is a slightly obscure question, but I bet there is a chart/lost around somewhere. Google this: 1983 Toyota pickup 4spd to 5spd swap (No sarcasm or snarky meant by that lol)

Hi folks. Spent some time scrolling through this threat but life is short. So, I will jump the line and ask my question. I have a 1983 shorty Sunrader with 22r and a 4spd manual. The rest axle is out of an 87 and has a 4:88 rear end. I would like to swop in a 5spd. What are the options beyond the L52? What years of 4Runners would have comparable transmissions? The more options I have (years/vehicles) the more likely I can find one locally.

We just bought the camper, and are real excited to spend some days in it. I’m having trouble finding any sort of owners manual, or any info for general maintenance and instruction for it. Does anyone have any resource for this? Also, any suggestions on typical maintenance or things to look out for? We’re already going to replace the suspension and do a little lift to it. Any help would be great, thanks!

First 2 have been taken from the Toyota camper IO group. You will probably have to join to see them, toyota-campers@groups.io | Home 86-SunraderOwnersManual-Cover.jpg (groups.io) INST NT 12 16 20 S 204031 5-17-06 REV B.pdf (groups.io) More appliance manuals at Bryant RV manuals Service Documents and Manuals (bryantrv.com) Have no newer Sunrader manual but you can see it doesn't have much info anyway. This person has been selling these CD's for years. Some people have been happy with them. Surorised they haven't upgraded to digital. Who has a CD anymore. SUNRADER MOTORHOME OPERATIONS & AC FURNACE MANUALS for Toyota RV w/ Appliances | eBay Linda S

Hi, Linda - I'd love to get my hands on this Manual Set as well - but the link doesn't seem to work for me (even logged in). Any assistance is greatly appreciated!

Hello all. My RV renovations stalled out in Feb (but thanks so much to folks who replied to the post I made back in January seeking help!). My beautiful partner in crime, my Service Animal Duke dog, got sick in Feb and everything had to be tabled while I dealt with his mysterious illness. Sadly, it turned out to be Lymphoma. Despite getting all the medical treatment we could, including chemotherapy, after months of struggling valiantly, he recently passed away. I had hoped to get back to fixin up the house part of my rig this Fall - to travel and heal this broken heart - but my RV overheated, completely broke down, and had to be towed - been at my mechanic for a month now. (Stuck thermostat seems to be the culprit). My mechanic pulled the engine and has re-machined much of the fixable parts. But apparently the cylinder head is not fixable and he has been having trouble sourcing the correct part / cylinder head assembly kit. He said the exhaust port on the head needs to be round; the 2 he was shipped (from junk yards maybe?) both had a tear drop exhaust port which won't do. He said both times he thought they found the right part but both times it was the tear drop version... It's a 1984, early production, 22R engine. 4 cylinder, 5 speed manual. While I still haven't had a chance to read all the replies to the thread I created back in January, I am back on here hoping someone has suggestions on how to find this part my mechanic is not finding. He said the part is hard to find because these engines haven't been in production for so long, so parts are rare. Hopefully at some point I can read the post thread replies to the house fixing post! And get back to that project. But in the meantime, the engine is the #1 priority. I have a loaner vehicle for now, but the RV is actually my "daily driver", so getting her running again is crucial. Not to mention, after 6+ months of being a hospice nurse, then the death of my best friend and right hand man, I really REALLY need to get back out on the road. (Also, Duke and I were living FT in the rig until the pandemic hit, then we sheltered in place in TN. He was sick then passed away before we were able to start traveling again, so I haven't had a trip since 2020.) I have to get back out on the road! The open road, mountains, deserts, oceans - that's what revives my soul. Not having the ability to travel in my rig is driving me insane! So I have got to get her fixed to get some healing. Even if it's just for a weekend. Thanks for reading y'all. - Rachel

I owned a toyota van 1988 and a lot of similar parts. Hoping soneday i will fin owner manual, even in japanese!

I did some digging on this truck after i bought it however all info i found is not only here on this site, but also dates back to 2014. I was hoping maybe someone had an owners manual or any factory information that they could share with me. Thank y'all for your help!

I don't think a lot of them were made. Finding actual manuals from 45 years ago is a stretch. Manual didn't have very much info in them anyway. Has yours had the axle upgraded. Kind of important. For specific questions we can usually help. Anytime Linda S

The only thing you're going to find out from your plate is your gear ratio. There's only one full floater and it has an 8" gear, the V6's are 4 pinion and because yours is an automatic it has a 4.10 gear ratio. Only other gear it was made with was a 4.30 but only on V6 with a 5 speed manual tranny. It's common to upgrade the diff to better handle the weight and on the v6 the preferred gearing would be 4.56. Common in 4x4 trucks and 4runners if you wanted to look. Your doing an amazing job. Linda S

Hiya! I recently purchased a 1987 Toyota EFI Horizon ST. It sat a looonnng time and it needs A LOT of work. I have exhausted all sorts of searches for a manual. All I can find are manuals for the Dolphins. So, how comparable are Dolphins to the Horizons? OR does anyone out there know where/how i can get a hold of a manual! Many thanx!

Hello everyone, I love that we have a forum just for the Toyota motorhomes. This is my first post on here. I acquired my 1983 sunrader (4-speed manual, no power steering, fake dual axle sadly ) a few weeks ago as a means of traveling from Virginia to Oregon with the intention to live in it for a couple of years. Before I left, I put a new set of 8ply tires on it, changed the transmission and differential oil as well as changing the engine oil a couple of times until it was running clean oil. The previous owner could've been better about keeping up with oil changes but it wasn't horrible. I made the first leg of my journey from Central Virginia to the Upper Peninsula of Michigan about two weeks ago. The engine is running fine. Getting out of first gear is okay, but with that 22r, it definitely could be easier than it is. All seems to be fine with the sunrader except for the suspension. The ride was bumpy as hell to say the least. Some of the highways through Indiana were so bad that i pulled off and took some sideroads because it felt as if something was going to go wrong. Well, somewhere in Wisconsin, we hit standstill traffic and once we came to a stop, the engine stalled. I was able to start it up, inch up for a while then it cut off again and wouldn't get going. It was a busy chunk of highway on a 95 degree day, no fun. A kind person stopped and gave us a tow off of the highway to a neighborhood. I eventually came to the conclusion that I had vapor lock because we had been running for 9 hours straight on a hot day. We let it rest for about 5 hours and it started up. We drove to the first stop light and it stalled. I floored the gas and popped it into 1st, engined was roaring but i was able to get going. I came to the conclusion that I just couldnt come to a stop. There were 6 more stoplights to make it through before I made it back to the highway. Some high RPMS, engine braking and a bit of luck, i never had to fully stop through those lights. I made it another 200 miles then pulled off to go to bed. Once I actually came to a stop, it shut off again. In the morning, I started trying to figure out what was going wrong because vapor lock didn't seem to fit the bill anymore, at least not the full bill. After pulling the gas line to the carb and starting the engine, I saw that the pull was still sending gas. I poked around some more and saw that the nut holding the throttle linkage on the carb had fallen off. This caused the spring on the idle control to come off. This was the issue. I luckily had some steel wire and duct tape with me and that was enough to finish the journey. The ride was so rough that it caused this to come loose. I am not saying vapor lock was not any part of the problem, but this bolt coming off certainly was the main culprit. So on to the suspension help. I need to get this suspension upgraded and it seems like there are some options, but I wanted to see what you all thought. From what I can tell, everything is original. Should I just go ahead and replace all of the shocks, leaf springs and add one of those air lift suspension helpers? I would like to not have to do everything, but I don't want to just do one of these and it not have much positive effect. If anyone has any specific parts they would recommend for 1983 models, that would be greatly appreciated. I am all ears. Thank you

I have a 1991 Toyota Itasca, 6 cyl with 120,000 m on it, and in very good shape if I may say so! I note that in reading the Toyota manual that my gas tank has a 13 gallon capacity which, given my RV travel plans, is very modest. Given where I will be travelling, I do not expect gas stations as often as here in Canada or the US. I found an online supplier who offers 17 gallon tanks for this vehicle which sorely tempts me as I am a bit reluctant to put 10 gallons in Jerry cans on the back bumper. Has anyone had any experience in putting in a bigger gas tank? Any advice? Many thanks!

I am selling my beloved 1989 Toyota Sunrader because I bought a new truck and don't have the space for both. I am asking $19,800 or best reasonable offer. No lowballs, please. The deets: 21 feet long Sleeps 4 6 cylinder, 3.0 liter gets great gas mileage 11-16mpg (regular UL gas) Fiberglass shell, no leaks! Odometer reads 200,753 Reliable V6 Engine was rebuilt at 100,000 (that's what the previous owner told me, but I can't find the documentation, sorry.) Spent most of its life in California, where it was purchased. It has been in NC for the past 4 years. No rust on frame. Great pick up and runs strong and smooth Speeds up to 70mph Power steering and brakes with cruise control Automatic transmission w/OD with ECT power boost switch for climbing hills never smoked in, no pets Cab-over bed sleeps 2 adults Repairs & Updates Gas line replaced 2022 New engine and house battery 2022 Brakes replaced 2019 Sunroof/vent replaced 2022 Professionally cleaned fall 2022 Hot water heater replaced 2022 Replaced wiring to water pump 2022 More about the rig: Interior Huge picture window in rear 3 burner stove with oven in working condition Fridge/freezer combo works great in electric, propane is a pain in the butt. Air Conditioning and heat works in the front cabin Sealed lead acid battery (12 volts) to run the 12 volts lighting system and the 12 volt water pump in the living area ...all in good shape and no leaks from the water pump Black holding tanks in good condition Grey water tank needs to be resealed, has a leak. Build in 20 gallon propane tank Has a wet bathroom in immaculate condition Cabinets all in working condition Eating area converts into a full bed New carpet in the entrance area 2 skylights with fans Sink drain, shower drain, bathroom sink drain and venting all in great working condition, no leaks, no clogs Rare and wonderful floorplan with big view window at the back, side front entrance close to passenger side Vintage Cassette tape player works great Thermostat controlled coach heater with ducted heating to dinette, kitchen and bathroom All original cab Exterior ~75% tire tread left Good amount of exterior storage, with some tools included from previous owners Strong and stable ladder to get on top Rear bumper can hold fishing rods All keys for exterior cabinets available All window open and close well Reupholstered dinette cushions... super cute and clean! Known repairs needed Electrical issue with the rear hydraulic system: When connected, it drains engine battery. We used the workaround of disconnecting battery terminals when not driving, but could be rewired or use a trickle charger. Needs shower head replaced. Crack in gray water tank. Crack in windshield. Missing antennae for radio Camper heater works sometimes, sometimes not Fridge only runs when plugged into electric. Black and grey water release pipes need new exterior caps. Other info: Original owner's manual and paperwork Records dating back to original sale...the grandpa kept all receipts CLEAN TITLE I am the 3rd owner. An old couple had it until 2012. The second owner had it until 2018 when I bought it in Santa Cruz, California. The rig is in Asheville, NC. Come and take it for a drive. Email me at jmoray1@gmail.com

1986 22re with A43D automatic transmission. There's a leak coming from the shift lever linkage where it goes into the transmission above the pan. I confirmed that the circled area below is where the leak is coming from by wrapping a shop paper towel around the lever and it gets soaked with ATF after a couple of days. I've looked through the Toyota Shop Manual as well as the A43D Transmission Service and Repair Manual and I can't find anything that would tell me if there's a gasket/o-ring or some other part that might have failed in that area or the steps needed to fix the leak. I would really appreciate any help in diagnosing and repairing this problem.

I posted this in the Yahoo group, but since all things Yahoo are wholly lame, I like this forum much better. I've learned a lot about the A43D tranny in the last couple of weeks - I have two broken down in, uh, my kitchen undergoing overhaul. It's actually not difficult at all, and I'll have two excellent rebuilds for $600, including all the tools and reference. There's a good kit on eBay right now for $45, vs. the $250+ plus that's normal for a master kit with steels. My failure, which I wrote about in detail on an earlier post about the saga of picking up my 86 Sunrader, was a loss of gears from OD on down. Made it from St. Pete FL to mid-LA when I started losing gears. Got home to Texas with occasional 3rd gear operation. Maintained the unit, test drove it a bunch, and it was fine. Worked very well, actually. So, being completely nuts, we drove it to Denver to see a concert, then all through the mountains and even some steep, snowy stuff in March. Performance, for a MH, was excellent. We got to commandeer an entire CO state park that hadn't opened yet. Awesome trip. Then, on the way home, we ascended the steep pass east out of Angelfire NM. Near the top, we were almost rolling backwards (and laughing like oooo). That was the only oddity, though, and we made it over the top. Shortly thereafter, it started slipping out of 3rd. The worst part is that it happened while listening to Pink Floyd's Echoes, one of the greatest works in history. How utterly uncool. We pulled over and spent the night with about 100 loud cows (which was pretty fun, really) and limped about 650 miles home. We only got one shift from 1st to 2nd per fluid warm-up. That made for an interesting trip - coundn't go fast enough for the interstate, but lost 2nd gear every time we slowed down. It was like a less-trying version of the film Speed. Too bad Dennis Hopper didn't come with us. Every time I coaxed her into second, we yelled "gooooooooooaaaaaaal" like at the Mexican soccer game. Finally we just said "ta oooo wid it" and jumped on I-20. The 22RE likes being wound up, and we managed 50mph and some of middle fingers from our kind fellow citizens. After the last fuel stop, 100 miles from home with no more slowdowns to cripple us, a TX DPS trooper left his speed trap position and chased us down for not having mudflaps on a dual axle. My understanding is that a MH is not required to have mudflaps, and installing them on a Sunrader is an interesting proposition in itself. Sheeeesh. So we had to sit on the side of I-20, watching The Simpsons on the laptop, waiting on the fluid to cool one more time. Our desire to get home to a city which (on a good day) we loathe was overwhelming. We got underway again and made it home, the last 20 miles being pure insanity, battered by the worst thunderstorms in many years. 3 times now Toyotas that shoudn't have made it have gotten me home. The transmission autopsy was a big event in our home, 'cause we like stuff like that. It's the only part of one of these rigs I've not dismantled and reassambled - I have 89 and 87 4Runners too. What went wrong in my 70K tranny? My 89 4Runner has 168K, towed another 4Runner from MA to TX, and shifts like silk. Being 0-for-6 in major drivetrain repairs from the sleazy mechanics that rule this area, we knew well that we'd do a better job than a rebuilder who gets fired if he takes too much time examining and cleaning parts. I can't tell you how many atrocious tranny rebuilds I've seen. I got one once that lasted less than 100 miles. Stuff like that made me abandon all vehicles outside of the 1st generation 22RE Toy pickup class, build a home workshop, and say goodbye to car payments and outrageous repair bills forever. 3 vehicles heades for the crusher restored to glory for less than half of what my 2001 Chevy cost. An? one of ?em has this rather splendid fiberglass house on the back. The fluid was dark, especially for so little mileage on it, but wasn't full of metal. But, before I originally left FL with the rig, I changed the tranny fluid and had no way to examine it. Subcomponents kept coming out looking good. Valve body looked good. Then, the rear parts group and output shaft didn't want to pull out by hand like they should. Spent an hour coaxing it, then slept on it before putting it on the press. It popped out with a tiny amount of pressure. Woo hoo. I looked at the tailshaft and in my best surly blue collar voice, growled "there's yer problem". On the last inch of the output shaft inside the case (not the extension housing, but the case itself), there are 3 metal interlocking oil sealing rings. Two of them had broken and gouged the bore at the rear of the case. It was pretty nasty. The rings were shaved across their diameter like a deli slicer worked 'em over. I've never seen anything quite like it. The bore looked like it was supposed to be grooved, but got chewed up too. Yes, a worst "case" scenario - the case is the most expensive hard part, but I quickly found a $100 donor unit at the junkyard just 6 miles away. I efficiently broke her down in just a few minutes, and this time the tailshaft group slid out with no problem, but..... TWO OF THE THREE AFOREMENTIONED OIL SEALING RINGS WERE BROKEN! So now we're zero for two trannys with sound sealing rings. Only these had not come out of the grooves to wreak havoc - thank goodness the rear case bore was smooth. But, the rings were shaved down like mine were - one is about 1/4 its original thickness. My original case was gouged so badly that I didn't realize the rear bore was supposed to be smooth until I examined the donor unit. These rings separate fluid passages to the governor, which controls shifting based on fluid pressure and centrifugal force as it rides on the tailshaft. Disrupt pressure to it, and it wreaks havoc on upshifting. Nowadays, the governor is replaced by electronic speed sensors and solenoids on most cars, but the A43D's only electronic control is the OD system. Amazingly, the pieces of metal were mostly stuck to the side of the center support and did no other damage. Hard parts look great, and the clutch discs had plenty of life remaining (but were replaced anyhow). So that solves the mystery of the shifting problem, but what caused this with so little mileage on a pretty durable tranny design? Toyota sez that if a bushing is out of spec, you replace the whole subassembly. Yeah, nice work if you can get it, but I wasn't born yesterday and, consequently, can change bushings. When looking at my nice new extension housing ("asscone") bushing from the A43D kit, I remarked on the apparent design improvement - a big X-shaped oiling groove in the bore. But, when looking closely in my asscone, I saw faint marks of what was once those same oiling grooves. Wowzers! The bushing was so worn that it appeared to be smooth inside! I measured it - 1.536", far in excess of the 1.4996 spec. TOAST. 36 thou might not seem like a lot, but it might as well be a mile in this application. The picture becomes clearer still.... See, the bushing wear was caused by the shaft wallerin' 'round in my asscone. No, really As the wear increased, the rear case bushing began to grind out of spec (only .009" over max, but still bad). What sits between the asscone bushing and the rear case bushing? The three oil seal rings that seem prone to coming apart! The rings are metal and have right-angle claw ends that interlock to make a kind of smooth unit that spins freely in a groove. Many of these in different sizes are found in the A43D, and now they scare the freakin' crud outta me. I theorize that on the first trip, the rings came loose and caused moderate problems. On the second, they held up for 4 days, then came really, really loose and ate up the case. The heat from that malfunctioning comprimised the torque converter which, after we got home, was performing poorly. No surprise there. The junkyard case donor I broke down looked fine too, other than those bleepin' rings. I wonder how many crappy rebuilds certain chain tranny shops have sold when all that was needed was a new TC, oil sealing rings, and two bushings? I wonder how many of those times the victims were told they needed a bunch of hard parts, too? I've seen people almost taken for THREE THOUSAND FROGSKINZ when all they needed was a throttle cable adjustment. So, the last part of the mystery...why did the extension housing, or asscone if you prefer, bushing get waller'd out like that? Research indicates it's not uncommon for Volvos running the same tranny (with a different asscone and bushing) to need the bushing done at 120K. A 21' Sunrader is obviously stressing the drivetrain a bit more than a Swedish turbobrick, so that likely accounts for some of it. I marked the driveshaft, of course, but since I'm not the original owner I can't be sure that my marks mean anything. Some of the work I've found on the rig is below even goober standards. I'll closely examine the driveshaft, center bearing, and probably change the likely-20-year-old U-joints while the shaft's out and pay special attention to good driveshaft phasing. Our recollection is that, especially on the second trip after adding new tires and Bilsteins, the ride was pretty sweet. No strange noises or vibrations, but a long shaft like that can get freaky if installed out of phase. I know why the tranny went nuts now, but can't tell if it was just normal wear or if an imbalance behind the tranny accelerated the wear. Again, we noticed no evidence of such a problem. Sometimes, problems like that are indicated by a leak at the rear seal, but the Toyota is very well sealed - a rubber metal-clad inner riding against a metal-clad felt-lined outer. That's awesome if you hate tranny leaks, but it will help a bushing wearing out of spec go unnoticed. So what in the name of tow trucks are you supposed to do? I'd pull that asscone every few years as part of routine maintenance. Drop the driveshaft, pull the speedo, six bolts holds the tail on. The bushing only costs a few bucks, cuts out easily with a hacksaw blade (large oil channels under it make damaging the bore a nonissue), and presses in easily. Make sure you line up the oil hole just right. A shop shouldn't dream of charging more than $100 to do the whole thing, or $20 to press the bushing. If the bushing looks really bad, check the driveshaft and u-joints. This can save transmission that should have run for many more years. Unfortunately, you can?t access the three oil seal rings without disassembling the transmission. You might have to tap the cone some with a rubber mallet to separate it. The housing gasket, which goes on dry, is likely to be a real nightmare to deal with, especially while under the vehicle. Scraping off the old gasket at the kitchen table was very time-consuming. Actually, it was the worst part of the rebuild so far. I guess that's, in a way, great news. I've always applied a light coat of grease to most gaskets to make future disassembly a snap. All my 22REs are assembled with grease instead of RTV (except a few special spots like half moons, oil pump bolt, etc.) and have never leaked a drop. The tranny is a pain to pull from the vehicle. Unlike on my 4Runners, the crossmember does not pull out. It's welded in. ACK! Getting that thing out from under that low-sitting vehicle is the stuff nightmares are made of. I think, actually, it might be impossible. It's easier for me to pull the motor. Pop the mounts and move the engine/tranny forward and you have easy access to the infamous two upper 17mm bellhousing bolts. Yoink the motor out, then tranny comes out easily through the hood. By watching eBay I was able to equip my home shop for absurdly cheap. Got a rebuild kit on there for $60, then another for $45. Shop equipment was accumulated by watching local auctions for heavy stuff. Got a two ton engine crane, two engine stands, and a load leveler for $100. And, got stuck in the mud in a national forest with all that stuff in the back of my Blazer as a game warden gave me an undeserved ticket. It?s a long story?? Disregard the $400 Toyota SST tool kit. Almost everything I needed was already on the workbench, and I fashioned most of the rest. A clutch spring compressor, $36 eBay, was the only tool I had to buy. Compared to the cost of rolling the dice on a half-assed rebuild, doing it yourself, even if you have to buy a lot of shop gear, is a blast. And, you get to keep the tools. The 1993 A43D Toyota manual is excellent, with much more information than the '80's FSM's. We supplemented the 4 manuals used with lots of notes and dimensions, plus over 1000 photos. What was once the greatest mystery on the vehicle I now know like tha back of my hand. Our attention to detail in measuring, examining, and cleaning was fanatical - much more than any shop would use - and no repair we've done has ever failed. If you can work efficiently and follow directions well, there's no reason why most can't rebuild the A43D. And so goes my strange tranny story, so far. I'm going to rebuild and soup up a spare 22RE for her, so it will be a little while before I'm rolling again. It?s too hot outside to go boondocking anyhow. I'll post more info and photos shortly.

Replaced the leaking seals on both driver and passenger sides of the transmission. Not a bad job at all with the right basic tools. It's tight but there's enough room to get it done in place. I drained about 3 qts of ATF prior to doing this repair. I bought 2 new seals from NAPA: Automatic Transmission Seal, Manual Valve Lever Shaft - Metal Clad. Part number ATP 15234. Passenger side. Remove the bolt, nut and a locking washer from the neatral switch and pull it off Old seal is now visible, red clay color in my case Driver side. Remove the cotter pin on the left side and the 4mm hex nut above the transmission pan and take the shift lever assebly off. The old seal is now visible I've tried different methods of removing the seals, including a small screw, but the only one that worked was using this pick tool from Walmart. Basically make a hole in the middle of the seal with the pick's sharp tip, insert, angle the tip towards you and pull. Then do it on the opposite side of the seal and alternate pulling. Just make sure that the sharp tip doesn't come into contact with anything but the seal itself. Installing the new seal is easy. Clean out the area with some break clean, q-tips and shop towels first. Put some grease on the seal and the shaft. Then use a deep socket placed on top of the seal to push it in with just the fingers first and then lightly tap it in to seat against the case. This picture was taken before wiping off the grease. Same on the other side Comparing before and after pictures I noticed that the new seal was sitting something like 1mm further out than the old one. I measured both the old and the new seals and the new one is that much wider so I think that's just how it is. Perhaps this will finally fix a slow leak that I've had for a while now. It sat overnight after I filled up the ATF to the correct level and so far so good. True test will be after I put it all back together and go on a long drive. I couldn't find this information anywhere and if you're having a similar issue I hope this is helpful.

Thank you, I had this manual but somehow missed it. I found the needed seal on NAPA's site: "Automatic Transmission Seal, Manual Valve Lever Shaft - Metal Clad. Part number ATP 15234". MODS, please close this thread or delete it if you'd like. I'll post updates in this A43D specific thread:

https://at-manuals.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/manuals/A43D repair manual.pdf if you find page AT-12, there is a labeled oil seal on each end of the shifter shaft. This is commonly the case, and the seal is commonly designed for removal and replacement without opening the transmission. PS- I cannot view your photo.

Thank you! I think I found it on NAPA's site: "Automatic Transmission Seal, Manual Valve Lever Shaft - Metal Clad. Part number ATP 15234". When you remove it, will the ATF continue to leak out until the new seal is installed?

yes, remove the bolt holding the line bracket. as stated take the line nuts loose from the box. mine is also manual, and i forgot about the hose clamps and line nuts

I can’t comment on your setup as I’ve never worked on a Toyota power steering setup. My vehicle is older and has manual steering. Based on your pictures, the “screws” I think you’ve referring to are actually “flare fittings “ and should be removed using a flare wrench or flare crows foot socket. This will prevent the fittings from getting rounded over by trying to use a standard open end wrench. Shoot them up good with rust buster and let them sit for a day. The steering box itself is usually attached by nuts and bolts to the frame rail. Again, your setup might be slightly different. On my setup I couldn’t get a puller over the pitman arm until I loosened up the bolts holding the box in place. Take your time. If you have a Haynes manual or Chiltons manual, that will be a big help. https://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-metric-crowfoot-flare-nut-wrench-set-7-piece-68999.html

Try an online service manual to find your exact torque settings. Thats a pretty critical component and deserves careful attention. Diff internals also often spec a thread locker as they are subject to component-flexing forces that loosen fasteners.