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I guess all of them are a bit different, fuse panels can be about any where some are with the coach battery some are with the converter or both just have to track them down. Futar has a good point clean them up and make sure there is tension on the connections for the fuses maybe squeeze the connections together a bit after you clean them. A small knife works good just make them bright where they touch the fuse. A 12 volt test light is very helpful most any auto parts store has them and they are not expensive touch both sides of the fuses and see if it lights if not it’s either dirty or bad.

Good deal on the clean outs wish mine had on I just open the hatch on the tank and let her rip! My clean out is inside the house and some how I don't think it would please my wife if I used it. The local campground here wants $50 to dump if you are not camping there.

Have you tried Toyota? Other then that maybe a junk yard should be the same as any Toyota pickup.

Funky I like it! Glad every thing worked sounds like you had fun.

OK now I understand. The later one would be the one I would use rides better less problems with the front end and you can buy beefer torsion bars for the extra weight. Too bad it is not an extra cab they are longer. I would really try to find out what the deal is with the transmission. Try your wheel base on both it maybe the same with some added frame behind the axle. Nothing is imposable but I'm glad it's your project!

Had another thought the solid axle used leaf springs and the 91 has independent “A” arms with the front diff. bolted to the frame I’m thinking yours is old enough to have used the solid axle on the 4X4 then there is the matter of spring hangers.

You kind of lost me, do you want to put your body on another truck or put the parts under what you have? Either way I hope you have a lot of free time. Also what kind of transmission did he put in? To my knowledge there is no “larger” Toyota transmission even in a T 100 that will bolt to the 22R/22RE another consideration will be the differential ratio they have to match exactly front and rear.

Man I eat like a king! I take every thing! I pack that fridge even ice cream! I do stir fry, eggs and bacon you name it. When it’s nice I cook out side with a propane stove but I do use the MH stove in the morning for breakfast and coffee. You really can do some gourmet meals it never ceases to amaze me as to how much you can get into those small fridges. Yeah I fill the doors and every thing. I don’t cook at home so I try to impress my wife when we go camping with a great meal. I spent a lot of years in a tent then a popup and now I live it up in my little Toyota!

Mine is about 6' 2" but it is a '87' Nova Star 21'. I am 6' and I can not stand under my A/C It is the same front to rear just the A/C is low. I'm afraid I can't help you with a Dolphin though. Sounds like razing the roof might be quite a task.

Compressed air does a good job I have done dozens over the years and have never had a problem. A nice long tip helps or even a small hose hooked to the tip so you can get deep inside. Get out what you can you can't do any better then that. The worst possible scenario would be between the vale and the seat but aluminum is soft and it won’t last long. As I say in 35 years of working on engines I have never had an issue redoing spark plug threads just be as careful as you can.

I don’t believe I would heat it, gear oil stinks when it burns. What you might try is a punch on the out side of the axle lined up with the stud, the washers are tapered and usually that is enough to jar them loose. As shoprat said a chisel works too if you can find an edge sticking up, the split in the cone is top to bottom so it will give.

Good plan with the piston at tdc also grease the cutter and the tap well with some thing like wheel bearing grease and go slow most of the shavings will stick to the grease. The helicoil kits work very well the treads are very deep so you should have no problem repairing the hole. The drive tab on the helicoil is meant to brake off when the installation tool is reversed (locks the helicoil in place) so you will want to use needle nose pliers to brake the tab so you can remove the tab with the pliers as it brakes.

I'll take a guess and say it's an automatic. If it shifts a lot (up and down) shift to the next lower gear until you climb the hill. Overdrive is more likely to shift out when climbing a hill unless it is real steep so just turn off the overdrive until you are back on the flat good ideal any way when you are going too slow for the O/D to stay in. The automatic is pretty good about picking the right gear so if it shifts a lot pick a lower gear until you gain speed again.

They are pretty noisy you would know if it was turning. They come apart pretty easy take the screws out of the top and see if any thing is broken or if there is some thing in it that does not belong to the pump. Maybe it has water in the motor and the bearings have seized. They are not cheap so it's worth taking it apart first.

If it's a fixed tank it's OK just the tanks you can take out have to conform.

If you don't want to spend the money for a 6 bolt rear don't buy it. I would not drive it any where until it was replaced it's running on barrowed time. I would continue to look they are out there I looked at a 85 Sunrader yesterday with a 6 bolt rear

Found a Sunrader today rear kitchen I believe it is a 85, automatic 66K It needs the entire interior redone and the shower and toilet have been removed. It does have the big rear and decent tires, all the tanks are there and the plumbing. The kitchen is still intact and so is the fridge and heater. I did not see any water damage but there are no cushions or mattress carpet is shot and I was thinking $2,000? I did not talk to the owner only his dad and he said he thought his son had kind of lost it because he wanted $5,000!! I can’t see offering more then 2,000 but it could be a nice camper what you guys think? I really don’t need another MH but I thought I could make a few bucks rebuilding it.

Most vets carry a solution that works but it ain't cheap. We had a dog that chased one into the house that was not fun as we were in the house at the time along with the skunk and the dog.

Get some cats but they could care less about mice (too well feed I think) unless they are in the house then they chase them all night and generally I am the one that has to catch them chip munks too. There are some pretty big spots in this thing I would need a 55 gl. drum of foam I'm afraid.

Yes your converter should charge the battery and so should the truck while you drive. It is hard to say if there will be enough battery to work your heater maybe some one can do a load test on your battery to see if it is ok and check the charging system while they are at it. Some times the fan motors turn hard from a lack of lube (they get dry with age) that slows them down and draws even more power from your battery if it squeeks that's a sure sign. Check the battery first and go from there.

Why did it flunk? Do you have the figures CO, CO2, NOX etc. A missing choke plate will only make it hard to start. Vacuum leaks, rich, idle mix, timing will effect your smog test does it still have it's cat?. If it comes down to a used carb why not just rebuild the used one then put it on? it would be a lot easier all the parts would be there. There are a lot of small parts in the Toyota carb an overhaul is not for the faint of heart so you need to find some one who has a done a few before.

I am going to go out on a limb here and say they are most likely right hand nuts because they are chrome plated. Try one on the right and see how hard it comes off then try the same on the left if it does not move go the other way.

You have got to have plenty of wind from the fan try it when it is plugged into house power and see what that does that will give the battery a boost . There is a switch that allows the gas valve to open it is called a sail switch and it does pretty much what it's name implies when the air from the fan blows it pushes the sail switch closed and turns on the the gas. There are other things that may cause your problem but the sail switch is a common issue and generally from lack of enough air flow.

Ground your connection the the temp gauge at the sender turn the key on and it should go all the way hot. If it does replace your sender unit. Feeling the radiator is not really a good test you can get skin burns at 140 so any thing above 100 or so feels really hot. I would say make the gauge work then see what the temp really is doing. Like tweberglass said senders are cheap.

Yeah I live in the middle of 80 acres lots of fields trees etc. So far I have not had any problems over the winter Maybe you probably know but small class "C" covers are big covers for a Toyota class "C" so they pretty much touch the ground. I have had good luck with a box of moth balls over the winter it just the blasted things are getting in during the summer when I have it parked. Maybe it was just so wet this year they were afraid of drowning and jumped in the MH for high ground. I think I am going to try the glue strips they sell to catch the bloody things and put them on top of the tires they have to have water at some point and I guess they are climbing the tires to get in. I'll let you know if I catch any. I guess I could befriend a snake ( the wife would sure like that)