Maineah

I feel his grief I saw listings for transmission bands that transmission has no bands. That was a very popular cable I'm guess he needs to have it in his hand there was to my knowledge only a couple of cables, the ends are what counts the length is not too important as long as it's long enough they made millions of those things. I would try a friendly transmission shop. Just out of curiosity what is the problem with the cable?

Google "TV" cable there are dozens of hits. A kick down cable is kind of miss leading all though it does make it "kick down" that really is not it's purpose it is a throttle valve cable directly connected the the throttle linkage that controls shift points. There are a zillion Toyotas out there that used them up until they went electronic.

The saddle tanks are exempt. Most places are kind of clueless and don't have the tank adapter any way. Try a large camp ground they know how to do it. It is a 30 LB tank a lot nicer than lugging around 20 LB BBQ tanks.

Not something I would try, lot of peaks in the NE where MH's are banned.

Some times it pays to be smarter than your gadgets!

I don't think you under stood what I was saying yes FI is far more efficient than any carb. My point is aero dynamics of a class "C" sucks you can make your 22R/RE more efficient but the results are not going to be dramatic it maybe more fun to drive with some extra power I don't dispute that but it's not going to get 20 MPG. Now, I was in the auto trade for only 38 years during that time was the slow change over to FI, I taught continuing education for Bosch so I do understand how it all works. If you look at the fuel figures the only things that get reasonable millage are class "B"s they are small, light and good attempt at aerodynamics that is the key. One of the biggest issues with a class "C" is the bunk roof over hang that's a big part of the "brick issue". Go for it have a ball it will be a lot more fun to drive with the extra power.

I'm going to say it's where the trans cooler line where fit into the trans. The right angle fitting fits into the trans the nut on the fitting has a copper washer behind it. The washer maybe be fine the nut holds the fitting in place at the proper angle if it's loose it will leak.

I would like to add one more thing do not get carried away with greasing the bearing a little bit is OK they are flooded bearings meant to be lubed with gear oil.

The nut appears to be correct the "ring" at the top of the nut needs to be "staked" in against the pinion grove once it's at proper torque. Don't go crazy with an impact tool the crush collier takes a good bit of torque to crush it beyond the recommended torque so torque it to specs then take a small punch and drive the nut top collier into the grove in the pinion. There are two methods pinion bearing load a normal torque wrench or a spring scale in your case neither will do much good because pinion bearing load can not be tested properly with the ring gear in place but not to worry there is no real reason for it to change. With out the axles in place and the wheels on the ground and the brakes on you'll never get the nut to the proper torque with out the tool to hold the pinion from turning (it's nothing more than a long bar with holes to bolt to the pinion flange).

You can remove the seal with a small screw threaded into it and plyers. Drive the new one in with an deep socket.

Well like I said it is not brand dependent my 4 liter V6 Tacoma has more than enough power but towing I get the same results as I did with my 87 22RE it pulled it OK but the gas milage sucked. I have noticed the same results with my dually Dodge Diesel it pull a load fine don't even have to shift much with a millage hit also. Yeah more power is better less towing or driving in the right lane and trying to get a running start to an incline but it's not going to do much for mileage. To get max power with a turbo it has to have more fueling so if the stock injectors are used you are going to end up with a lean mix and and maybe burnt pistons if it carburaburated larger jets will be needed. It takes fuel to make power so yeah it makes for a bit more pleasant drive perhaps but you will see very little difference in mileage and it may even be worse.

A great part of the problem is the vehicle it's self it has all the aero dynamics of a brick and a matching weight. The coefficient of drag increases with speed very quickly. My modern Tacoma can yield maybe 24 MPG on the highway if I keep the speed down. Connect my 17' trailer I'm down to at the most 14 at 55. Never did much better than 13-14 with the little motor home I have found that towing any thing with truck or a motor home for that matter has the same effect no matter what you tow or drive it with it's right in the 10-15 mpg. There are certain things you just can't fix.

Long topic. You can store far more energy in a 20 LP propane tank than 10 batteries, anything that requires heat needs to run on propane fridge tea kettle water heater. Ok the hand tools have some hefty batteries so a lot depends on use, inverters are less than 100% efficient so what you take out you have to put back in. If you are going to spend a lot of time away from power you need to reduce the electrical loads. Again it is the 10 factor 120 volt items plugged in draw 1 10th the power they would running on 12 volts from an inverter. You will not overload a 30 circuit the plug is a TT30P it will only fit in a TT30R socket they are rate 30 amp max. If you trip the breaker you have some serious issues with trying to take the entire house with you to go camping. As far as controllers they need to match the solar output you only need one, in a small system even with 3 panels they well be parallel wired meaning they only need a single controller to feed the batteries that will also be parallel wired you do not need one for every battery. When in doubt buy a hefty controller more that you real need it does not care it works just the same on a small system.

There are only 3 or 4 flooded acid battery manufactures in the entire country. WalMart actually has a pretty good reputation with their batteries they are made by Johnson Controls. The only reason I patronize WalMart is for batteries, oil and filters!

Your big one is probably closer to 100 watts dependent on the age maybe 150. Yes your isolator needs to work if you want the truck to start. If your solar is working properly then it could become your jump start battery! Because my panel is steerable and I can elevate it I get max daylily out put instead of high noon with a roof mount. Reduce your loads get rid of things that make heat (light bulbs for one) replace them with LEDs plug your phone into a small inverter and your laptop if you must they are small in the 45 watt range. Forget AC and big fans. If you have to have AC buy a generator. If you are going to play with batteries make sure your system is compatible LipO batteries are not going to work on a system made for lead acid or the other way around. Mine runs on off the shelf deep cycle lead acid batteries.

Yep standard sink size the entire thing fittings etc. A lot of them I have seen in MH and TT's are cheap plastic. Any decent hardware store.

Check the voltage at the batteries that's all you need to know. On a small system it is highly unlikely they are series wired so at the panels on a good bright day will yield 22 volts that by it's self is too much so you need to check the battery voltage that he panels are connected to, on a good bright day. Most of the small controllers are PWM (pulse width modulated) they charge batteries by turning on and off don't get out your stop watch though! Because batteries are resistive the voltage must be higher than resting voltage usually in the 14-13 volt range a full charged resting battery is around 12.8. A small system is a pretty simple operation so don't over think it. I have a TT with 2 batteries I made a stand that folds up to charge the batteries I can turn and elevate the panel, it is a 100 watt panel the controller is mounted on the panel not the best place but but the loss is minor it connects directly to the batteries I can go indefinitely with that setup.

Linda is right about the stops your discerption match's, all Toyota trucks of that vintage eventually did that as the plastic stops wore out. My fix after replacing the plastic parts a couple of times was grease on the lower control arm. You will find a bright ware mark on the control are where the stops rubbed it a bit of grease will stop the noise it would probably take 5 decades for any damage of the involved parts to ware.

Agreed they are not bad units. Don't think I would want to load a 9500 in the RV though!

My Garmin has shortest and fastest usually the shortest wins!

Measure the panels then look on line I would guess 100 watts or less. The controllers are directional so it shouldn't make much difference. A normal panel will output around 22 volts in direct sun, it is the controllers job to keep it within standard battery tolerance.

Short answer yes. The parts are resistant to brake fluid because it is a safety factor rubber parts swell if they are not fluid resistant and it's possible you would not be able to depress the peddle. Years ago it was kind of normal to find brake fluid in boosters a lot of it was burned up in the engine but yeah.

If you are going to replace the booster get a check valve too or try that first. Any thing above an idle the vacuum drops fast. The ideal with the check valve is to have at least one good boosted stop no matter what.

It probably did no damage to the booster that's kind of expected any cylinder leak will be increased because of the vacuum in the booster so the guts are pretty hardened to brake fluid. That used to be common decades ago.