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The "E" engines used a single roller chain the "R" a double and they never wore out. The snubber is spring loaded and pressure feed so they take it on the chin too. The logic was less mass to keep moving better fuel economy etc. The oil pump is right up front and they were known to leak with high miles so it should be good for another 100K!

I have 17 foot camper camper I made a heater out of an over head electric bathroom heater. The thermostat is line voltage, I can not sleep through the propane heater I wake up and wonder why I parked at the jetport!

They are not torque to yield and pretty hefty. Have reused them probably a hundred times. clean the treads block and bolt a drop of oil and go for it.

How many miles? If it is in the 100K plus (doubtful) the timing chain /guides would be a good ideal. Check the front seal you may want to replace the seal and the oil pump sealing ring but other than that it's' not a bad job. Valve adjustment of course goes along with it.

The RV systems are all the same the Toyota it's self is different. If you can get the numbers from the fridge etc an on line lookup will help you out. The 22RE was an extremely common Toyota engine so if you have seen one you have seen them all.

I kind of remember the fuel system have an electric fuel shut off valve. That generator is far superior to any after market unit. It is designed to run in an enclosed space, it exhausts out the bottom of the RV both engine exhaust and hot air. Running a portable generator enclosed in an RV is dangerous.

Well hard question. It most likely was 3K but since then oils have improved quite a lot and now it's more like 5K. So here is the question how far do you think you will drive in a motor home during that range? Many oils at this point actually need to be driven to do the job they were intended to do. Sure hauling around a MH is pretty hard work so that is a factor. I'll still go with the 5K range I tow a camper with a Tacoma so I'm some where in the 6,000# range with the setup. So every two years.

I remember them they were quite popular years ago!

There is another thing you need to consider if you switch to LED's they may quick flash unless they are ready have a resistor to correct that. Many times a flasher unit will not correct that unless you go with LED's both end. The resistor is a quick fix.

You haven't lived till you run across a Nova Star they must have got a deal blue and green wire and a few other odd colors. The blue and green are the lighting wires I don't remember but I don't recall a single black wire.

Wait till you decide remove the sofa it weight a ton!

People are amazingly perceptive of off level the inaccurately of comfort is not enough to screwup up a fridge unless you parked it in the yard and for got to turn it off.

A bench test will tell you it turns not much more zero load. There is no relay the contactor is in the starter.

Before you spend the money try jumper cables to the starter.

Actually have had pretty good luck with Walmart batteries date marks need pretty good look over though! One of the Walmart batteries on my camper is 6 years old just did a load test on the pair for an end of year camping adventure mid month. I do leave my batteries on a smart charger year round that seems to make a difference in longevity instead of all most dead to full charge when needed.

Makes me dizzy thinking what that diesel engine weights!

Yes they should match both 24 or both 27's You will need a good smart charger for best results There are but a few flooded cell batteries manufactures in the US (like 3 or 4) so don't let the name fool your decision. I run a camper all most totally self contained with 2 batteries and a home made portable framed 100 watt solar panel that I can elevate and rotate on the ground.

Yeah it works I did the same to my Tacoma a couple of years ago not some much for the heat as the noise level.

"The way life should be" and I have a house. I'm in the foot hills of the White Mt. -20 is fairly common in the winter. By first frost campers tend to get a bit chilly.

Well I'm in Maine that's kind of out of the question. Question how about dealing with freezing water and waste tanks? Can you sleep through blast furnace of a propane heater? 100# propane tank? I'm all done by mid October the first frost. Camper insolation at best is 1 1/2" thick.

This is where a clamp on current reading meter comes in handy. Either reduce the load or increase the wire gauge.

drop (V) = Iwire (A) × Rwire(Ω)= Iwire (A) × (2 × L(ft) × Rwire(Ω/kft) / 1000(ft/kft)). It ain't all that easy.

If you think you need to take the house with you camping it's probably best to stay home.

The AC and the lights have nothing to do with each other. Most small RV's have 3 breakers that look like the ones in the house a 30 (main breaker for every thing then a 15 for outlets and a 20 amp for the AC. They should be easy to spot. There are two systems lights, radio, water pump maybe a vent fan. Outlets, AC and charging systems require you to be plugged in. One of the simplest gadgets you can buy is a plug in outlet tester most hardware stores will have them like 5 bucks I leave mine plugged all the time it will also tell you if the camp ground is properly wired!

I have a Honda 5K generator it's on the plus side of 230#! Not a real good addition for all ready over weight MH! It does run my house though.