fred heath

In prior posts about rock auto I mentioned what a great data base they had. I get the part # from rock, then google it. Amazon is usually first up.

If you want to completely rebuild your toy from the ground up using only rock auto parts you might be in the running along with several thousand others to be featured on a magnet. Rock Auto’s prices a often good but many times shipping will negate any savings. At least with Amazon you get free returns if not satisfied. Rock Auto return is on your dime. I’m not promoting Amazon over rock auto but having used both for years I think across the board Amazon is cheaper.

Try with a different multimeter. I didn’t have my fluke one day so used a Chinese substitute. Voltage readings were unusually high. Retested with the fluke and voltage was spot on. Chinese POS went into the trash.

Mileage shouldn’t matter. You need to have a forensic examination done by a qualified shop that works with this type of axle. Save everything!!!!!

Based on your narrative it sounds like the shop that did your brakes has some major liability here.

https://www.marlincrawler.com/transmission These people are the authority on Toyota Transmissions. This would be your best bet to determine what you have and if it’ll fit.

The answer to your question is yes!

Thread pitch is 1.25 for Toyota, not 1.5. Bottom cut tap will give you a little more meat to grab onto. Whenever possible I substitute studs with nuts for bolts when going into aluminum. Stud allows for more torque with less chance of stripping aluminum threads. Toyota FSM recommends leaving intake and exhaust manifolds attached when removing cylinder head. Makes head gasket install pretty simple.

Diameter is everything. The 27” is just a general ‘max’ diameter. It all depends on the clear opening of your wheel wells. Measure front to back in two different areas. Using the smallest measurement subtract 1” from that. This is the maximum tire diameter you can use without rubbing. The 225/60-16’s have a 26.7” diameter. It will be close if not too big.

I have the 6727 series. The ID plate is under the top cover riveted to the chassis (rear drivers side). I have the paper manual in my storeroom somewhere. It’s 7200 BTU and is a sealed ammonia based system. Very durable unit. Why do you want to change it?

W58 would be a good choice.

Why bother with all that work. Grab a universal 2pin connector and bypass that green connector completely. Plenty on eBay and Amazon. Those old factory connectors have marginal contact even when cleaned up.

Great list. The poster probably used the same trick that I used. I researched the factory part number on rock auto (great parts data) then switch to Amazon for usually lower price and free shipping. With Prime the parts arrive within 2 business days.

Last time I checked a new Onan 2800 was well over $2500.00. That’s the basic genset. Remote start and transfer switch is more $$$. I have the 2800 and I love it. Quiet running. Avoid having Onan do the installation. It would be very expensive. Any shop that works with generators should be able to do the work.

Linda, I’ve been running that exact tire on my rig. Averaging about 30-35K miles before changing. Not because they’re were worn down to unsafe, just preventative maintenance. They are a great tire for our rigs. Very pleased with wear and performance. My second set is just as durable. I didn’t mention 15” wheels because people can get into trouble if they buy the wrong tire. Simple tire is my company of choice for these tires.

15” will work but keep in mind most wheel wells will only accept tire diameter of 26-27”. The factory 185/14 is only 25.7” in diameter. Best to measure your wheel wells front to back then subtract 1” from that measurement. That would be the maximum diameter tire you should buy. I recommend a zero offset on the wheels. This centers the weight equally across the tire width. Some people try going slightly negative offset to get a wider stance but this distributes the weight unevenly and puts more pressure on the bearing. Finding the perfect balance of tire and wheel can get involved. Take your time.

Any 14” wheel with a 5x4.5 bolt hole will work. You don’t need the 114.3 Toyota wheel. Places like summit racing have good selection and fair prices. I buy the cheap white wagon wheels knowing I’m going to be using new hubcaps. Saves going to a pick-n-pull or similar place and taking a chance with a used wheel. No special offset. Standard centers work fine. Don’t think you will ever get a single part of a foolie that will balance correctly. Go with new wheels.

Weight will determine if you can go to single rear wheels. Weigh the back half of the motorhome (weight over the rear axle) fully loaded with any gear you will be carrying, fresh water tank and fuel tank full. If 4K pounds or less, you can run singles. If over, you need to stay with duels. The 5 lug axle is UNSAFE for duel wheels and will need to be replaced. New tires will not change metal fatigue. If your weight is 4K or under just switch rear wheels to singles. New tires and bearing replacement recommended.

Rear axle, 5 lug or 6 lug? If 5 lug, walk away. If 6 lug you’re good. Everything else will be dependent on how mechanically inclined you are.

The upper (frame) bolt should push through as well as the bolt holding the leaf spring. You may need a torch and an air hammer to get them out. Many times they’re frozen in place. The welded center brace is used to prevent flexing of the shackle itself. I’ve never cared for fixed styles like this. You can buy heavy duty shackles online for replacement or fabricate your own.

Replace all those butt connectors. Probably loaded with corrosion.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1001373840551193/?ref=facebook_story_share. For those who think a shorty with bad axle is safe to drive. Can't believe how much money they're looking for.

Sounds like seized calipers and possibly rear brake shoes dragging. How long was it sitting and did you have the emergency brake on during this time? Many times the cables do not completely release the rear brakes due to rust etc. even though you’ve released the handle inside the cab. It’s tough to diagnose without seeing what’s actually going on. Jack the rear axle up and see if the wheels turn freely(with the e-brake off). It could be something like the LSPV but seldom do they go bad. Pull a front caliper and see if the slides are functional. With limited mechanical experience you may need a shop to do the diagnostics.

We think the same way. Think everything else is good or it can wait until later.

Factory oil pump should be fine. Those engines have been known to run over 300K miles. Water pump is external and easy to replace. Can save for later or change it now. With 85K miles the water pump would probably be a good thing to change while everything is torn apart. Budget permitting.