90toydolphin

the reviews linda pointed too makes it sound like a roll of the dice. if i were to try to save the money compared to the honda i think i would try the one costco is selling. no electric start, but same power level and db rating as honda, around $450. i would go with the costco because of the generous return policy they have.

what i have found is that it seems to be strictly a converter. if it has a three way switch, conv., off, battery then that is what you have. from what i have found it does not double as a charger, strictly converts 120 volt to 12 volt. so when on conv. it is converting and all you 12 volt items are running off of it, off is off, battery setting runs all 12 volt off the battery. some here have upgraded to a newer converter/charger and didn't sound too hard nor expensive.

if you don't need a 2 or 3 way frig, there are ac units that fit pretty good. there have been times i wished i was able to afford a 2 way at the time. but with putting in a couple of frozen gallon jugs it has worked well as an icebox until i can plug in or run the generator. will want to know if your anti mice campaign works.

i used waiter's plans and did it too. i agree with 5000 btu not being quite enough. when mine dies, and it will, i'll get the biggest that will fit and my gen will run. i also posted pictures of the installation.

i could be wrong, but i think that is also called a governor? if it is the same my experience has been they are not easy to adjust properly and if set wrong can allow the engine to over rev and "burn" itself up. i have a honda motor that the spring has gotten weak, bent the spring a tiny bit making it a little stronger again. been to lazy to try to find a replacement spring and it has worked for two years now )

if you do try to drain, fill it with water so there aren't any fumes, the fumes make it a bomb. some have talked her about adding an electric in line unit, think it was for carberated units only. personally i wouldn't mess with a gas tank, save up and have a professional do it, less than buriel costs.

you may already know, but when looking for parts for the cab and chasis look for appropriate year toyota parts, chasis very often 1 year older than the camper is registered as.

it's been mentioned here that it is very difficult to see if the flat type fuses are good or not just by looking at them. try a new one, cheap enough.

came north over the grapevine, going up wasn't t hat big a deal, didn't heat up at all, but it has never heated up under any conditions including 105 weather with the air on, it's the coming down that worried me. i just stuck it in second, (auto, V6) and got in behind some trucks and came down at about 40 using the brakes very little.

was ac was plugged into the inverter output? inverter can't plug into shore power, can only connect to battery or other 12V source. the voltage drop from alternator to battery or battery to inverter is where there is big sensitivity to dropping. the ac out of the inverter isn't nearly as sensitive, just like house current, and we've all run 100' extension cords to run things. maybe i'm reading the questions and postings wrong. could happen )

second the towing, if your traveling on mapped roads that should take care of most things. if a couple of days lost really screws up the trip then add a few parts and tools to maybe save the time. we are planning on about a 2000 mile trip next spring, will be doing what waiter suggests before taking off. as they say, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

mine doesn't, have not heard of any. would have to set up air tight into coach, vented outside, somehow keep the unit cool, fuel source from trucks tank, not to mention the wireing. sounds pretty difficult to me. seems that someone here set up a box on the back, but i don't think it was rigged up so it could be used going down the road. any engine needs lots of fresh air to be able to run and keep cool.

looks and sounds good for the money. in the mountains. http://modesto.craigslist.org/rvs/3283362013.html

1986 Coachman for sale in Modesto Ca. $1000 20+ thousand miles. PostingID: 3284899907 http://modesto.craigslist.org/rvs/3284899907.html a deal for someone

don't remember the site, but read that it was 1990 that asbestos was removed from the head gaskets, the replacement didn't work very well so the recalls. prior to that asbestos was used and gaskets weren't as succeptable as later ones and i didn't read as to when it was finally solved. so maybe if your v6 was 89 or earlier the problem wasn't really there? i'm hoping so )

if the front isn't smashed into the motor and one can use wrenches, could be worth replacing the broken body parts, if you could get the whole thing cheap.

wrapping the motor? that would make it get hotter faster, set up a fan blowing on it to keep it cooler maybe? maybe i'm totally misunderstanding the wrapping. faulty new plug would be my next test.

one thing about digital is if you get a signal it's perfect, if not you get nothing. there's still the digital adaptors for analog tv's out there, like the ones that were free for awhile, about 20 bucks.

not familiar with wingard, but know that regular house antenaes, the old styles all pick up hdtv, just need the hdtv reciever. not all digital signals are hd so nothing fixes that. i can get digital signals with rabbit ears from 60 miles away and my reciever is high definition so if broadcasted in hd that's what i get.

good idea on closing off the cab. maybe my little 5000 btu window unit will work better, duh )

thanks, now i can picture what has to be done.

way too much money for what it is. imo

same message i get when the board is extra slow. not sure what i means, but means to me try another day. if the fix has a price tag maybe collectively we can fix it.

do a little math with the requirements of the frig considered and figure out what you need in the way of 12V power to run it. i can run my little 4.6 amp AC frig with an 800 watt inverter, just not very long on one battery. on my system i could run it about 1 hour on half the charge of the battery, and my understanding is you really don't want to kill a battery all the way. that's based on about 48 12V amps needed to run. not sure of start up power needed as this can be considerably more. i don't use it that way, if not plugged into AC use a generator and frozen jugs to keep things cool.

thanks for sharing. sounds like a serious undertaking. don't remember anyone on this site doing it. when and if the time comes with mine i think i'll get it towed in to fix. at 1300 sounds like not a bad price for what has to be done.