WME

Think " How do you eat an Elephant" take lots of small bites. Don't get all excited and gut the interior.

Oops #4 was supposed to be 2 adapters and 3 6 bolt rims

Basic choices. 1. Do nothing and limp to repair $ 2. Buy a spare 6 bolt rim and tire. $$ Where to keep 2 spare tires. 3. Buy a 5 bolt/6 bolt adapter and a 6 bolt spare. $$$ Flat in rear just bolt it on, flat in front bolt on the adapter then the 6 bolt spare tire. 4. Buy 2 adapters and 6 bolt spare, $$$$ Easy peasey tire change any axle. FWIW I driven RVs for 24 years and about 95000 mi and had 3 flats. 1 spike and 2 tire failures

Good news, good 1 ton axle. Not "bad" news but you probably have a 5 bolt front wheel. So take off the front hub cap and see what you got. The problem is IF you have a flat. Your spare is most likely a 5 bolt, so the front axle is covered. If the flat is in the back then, you have no spare. The normal drill is to remove the flat and drive to a repair shop. You will have 3 tires in the back, they will be very close to their max rating (but under the limit) so drive slow. A small 12v compresser will let you inflate the single tire to max pressure. Several of us have had to limp over 100mi.

Here are some diagrams for different isolators...https://www.custombatterycables.com/battery-isolators/

Its the thought that counts😁 Regardless of the art work its a viable option for a cheaper alternative while still having a vented heater

Here is some thing I forget about, that popped on the other Toy site. https://www.amazon.com/SUPERFASTRACING-Remote-Control-Diesel-Heater/dp/B07KMQ9VWY

Because of the engines and the available parts age and designs this will be "old School". You already have run the truck for 75 mi so the normal cam break in period is null. Under 3500 rpm, 25 mph, 40mph, 60mph. DO NOT lug the engine. DO NOT run at a constant RPM. Slightly speed up and down with a full deceleration every few min for 100mi. Then longer periods until 1000 mi are up. Then sneak up on normal speeds. Oil change at 250 and 1000 miles

Plastic fender paint for running boards, no idea about cab over joint. Actually strip the bumper and use the same paint.

Need 1000mi to seat the rings on an old school rebuild. Change the oil at 250mi and 1000mi, then go to your normal interval.

I don't have the 20r specs handy, but a 22r is something like 170 lbs with all cylinders within 14 lbs. So 160, 155, 160, 160 is good. But so is 145, 145, 150, 150. Minimum is 120lbs. You have 2 cylinders with more than a 14lbs variance. Also the "good" cylinder showed no change with added oil and the "bad" cylinders showed a big change. Possibility of stuck rings. An oil change with modern oil and a 50 mile drive MIGHT unstick things. Or you could just have a tired engine. Good news is that you don't have 2 low cylinders next to each other, so your head gasket is most likely OK

Brutal truth, there are a bunch of old POS Toyota MHs that people are living in. It depends on your tolerance for things. Like using a broken Refer as an icebox, a dead water heater is fixed by boiling water on the stove, a busted toilet/ broken holding tank is fixed by removing the toilet and replacing it with a porta potty. Broken heater, buy a sleeping bag. The more stuff that is broken the cheaper the RV. The big deal is NO leaks. Use snow coat to seal it up If you have skills a carbed 4cy is anvil tough and cheaper to work on/fix up than an EFI equipped 4 cyl engine. The V-6 is a nightmare. If it turns out that this ain't your thing a Toy MH with a 1 ton axle is often worth more as parts than the purchase $$$.

Paranoid about water leaks in your "newly " rebuilt Rader?..https://www.stanleyengineeredfastening.com/fasteners/rivets/open-closed-end-rivets/pop-closed-end-rivets

If you driving while waiting to locate a 1 ton FF axle, the thing to do is keep 10 psi MORE air pressure in the inner duel. This reduces the stress on the axle caused by "leverage" from the outer wheel.

Rivets definitely sketchy. At the very least redo them and use a washer on the inside to spread the load out and prevent pull through

So Derek ya got a set of those line drawings for a 2002 Tundra?

Well first thing you need is a giant balance beam scale. Put the Sunrader shell on one end and gold bars on the other. This will give you an idea of cost😵. If you Google Toyota Tundra/sunrader rv there a few pictures. The critical dimensions is the length of the shell from the front of the lower shell to the center of the wheel opening vs the distance from the back of the truck cab to the center of the rear wheel. The one I recall the builder had to cut, splice and lengthen the truck frame to get every thing to match. Good luck

Looks good, where do you keep the sewer hose?

Well, hows your whittling skills. The new Atwood furnaces in the 12-16 kbtu come in 2 basic sizes. DFMD 16xxx 7 3/8 x 16 1/2 x 20 and the DFSD 12xxx and the 16xxx, 7x12x20 Atwood was bought by Dometic so all the new PN are Dometic

When I use the vinyl cover, I'll buy.a roll, unroll it and leave it on the shed roof all summer. This preshrinks it. Also if you screw each end down, it looks nice longer

Blocking the front window has been done. Make, model, year and a photo of the front from the outside.

The NT-16 was the standard heater in most Toys of your vintage. What make and model do you have now?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Suburban-NT16SE-RV-FURNACE-NT-16SEQ-16-000-BTU-GAS-12V-CAMPER-NON-DUCTED/124052423020?hash=item1ce219c16c:g:E6gAAOSwFytaEzIC

Here are "just the facts" At 60mph with LT185/14 tires. 4.10 ratio 3rd gear 3400rpm, O/D 2400 rpm 4.56 ratio 3rd gear 3750rpm, O/D 2700rpm 4.88 ratio 3rd gear 4000rpm, O/D 2900rpm 5.26 ratio 3rd gear 4450rpm, O/D 3150rpm FWIW "normal" O/D's are around 15%, including most Toyota manuals,. So IF Toyota used the RIGHT ratio in the A43D, with a 4.10 ratio, the engine would be turning 2950 rpm in O/D. Very close to what the 4.88 does with the 28% O/D. With a 5.26 ratio the engine is running just a bit slower in O/D than the 4.10 is in 3rd As always YMMV

Fred were the regulators DOA or did they fail after X hours.