WME

Dennis Any progress on the brakes?

Stock Toyota fuel tanks have a drain plug in the bottom. If your does drain it. Be careful, bas gas burns almost as good as new gas. Put the plug back and poor in 2=-3 gallons of kerosene, rock the RV back and forth. Drain tank again. See if you can disconnect the fuel line from the tank somewhere underneath. Add 3 gallons of gas to the tank. Attach a hose and run the fuel pump by turning the key on/off a few times. IF it pump clean gas the next thing is to change the fuel filter. On the 22RE it is a major PIA to change so a mech might be a good idea at this point. Otherwise plan on spending $2-300 on having the tank dropped and cleaned and new filters.

I rehabbed two RVs, its just like eating an Elephant.... just one bite at a time and eventually its done.

I added a receiver hitch to my 86 Escaper. In a fit of overkill engineering. I replaced the rear bumper with 1/8" wall 4" square tube. I cut through the new bumper and pushed an 18" receiver tube through and welded it up flush. The other end of the receiver tube is welded to a cross bar that I added to the reinforced frame. The bumper takes the tongue weight and the cross bar takes the twisting from the trailer going over the bumps. Neat thing is now I have a good hitch and NOTHING sticks below the bumper to drag.

I give up The ONLY lube the six bolt axle gets is what you packin them. NO oil gets past the seal unless its damaged.

In my Toyota Shop Manual, it shows an inner seal, inner bearing, outer bearing and axle. The 1/2 ton has an outer seal. The paper gasket is to keep the bearing grease from leaking past the axle cap. The SIX bolt axle REQUIRES HAND packing of all 4 bearings

No debate, a monkey Mech twisted off one of my left handed studs on the drivers side. I had to pull the axle and hub to replace it. I repacked the bearings while I was doing this. Next Day I did the other side for "just because"

NO...NO....NO on the Six bolt both the rear bearings on EACH side are packed, NOT splashed lubed

MORE??? speed witha Toy M/H. Surley you jest. Going faster doesn't mean lower ratio gears, it means more HP. Just learn to cruse at the speed of Smell.

Toyota says not to use the O/D when your pickup is heavly loaded. Most of us think hauling around a house counts as being heavly loaded.

www.macmaster-carr.com. An isolation mount will have some flex in it so it will move as the panel changes size as temps vari. Pg 1346, 1347, 1350, 1351

Fiberglass some iso (lord) mounts to the roof and bolt to them..... No holes ANYWHERE, the glass work couldn't be seen from the street.

The problem is not running an engine on hydrogen. Its been done lots, if you get the timing curve right its a piece of cake. The problem is running on both H and petrol at the same time AND making enough H to run a large engine.

Take all the Cr p out of it and weigh it. Not a big deal. Maybe look around the door jams for a mfg tag and see if it has the weight.

I THINK there two adjustments. Raise the arm by making the adjuster longer, that's for sure. MAYBE the valve can be lowered, like slotted holes. Any way do these and see what you think, if happy try attaching the arm to the frame. If happier leave it there, if unhappy return things to where they were. Its all adjustments at this point, nothing permanent. FWIW mine is hooked to the frame. Again a statement of fact, not a suggestion.

It should be on the frame just above the axle on the passenger side. The adjusting bolt is on the drivers side. rear side of the axle

Low flow shower head??? Is the diverter fully diverted to the shower?

If your rear brakes arn't doing their thing, adjust the brake proportioning valve on the rear frame. It will make the rear brakes work harder. The valve was designed to limit the rear brake pressure when the Toy truck was empty, (AKA level). When you added a load the rear would sag and the valve would increase the rear brakes, because with more weight the rear tires could get more traction and wouldn't skid. As the scales show you have 4000 lb in the rear bed and should be draging the bed and you need max braking on the rear wheels. But the springs and airbags make the Toy level, or in your case, up some..... So the valve thinks your pickup is empty and limits the rear brake pressure so you don't skid. Some folks raise the adjusting bolt up all the way, some just tie the control arm to the frame so the rear brakes always get MAX pressure, some have even removed the valve. The spring shop should understand what I'm talking about.

1. Your Isolater is damaged and is shorted. You are running off the engine battery. To check disconect engine battery. 2. You do have a coach battery hiding somewhere.... Start looking every where.

ON the weathervane thingie. Works great going down the road. Dose a fair job when parked and there is some breeze.

Chuck ran out of axles about 3 years ago. Time to hit the net for used auto parts Where are you?? Several folks have posted that they have axles, on the Yahoo group

Don't forget to add a bag or 2 of ice cubes. Then go for a drive, they bang around in the tank and knock things lose, then melt and make an easy dump

Easy.... remove swamp cooler. Check to see if there is an 110v ac receptical near the vent. Lift the new A/C on the roof and install tit. The rv A/C units are bolted on with the bolts going through the 14x14 vent hole so no drilling in the roof. You will need a gasket for the base, get it when you buy the A/C. The units come in the 9000 btu or 13.5k btu sizes. The smaller 9000 btu ones will work of a 2kw generator. The 13.5k units need 2500w +. The 9000 will keep an rv cool, it justs takes longer to coo it down. My Toy has a 13.5 and it takes about 1/2 hr to cool down the inside from 100 deg to 75 or so. WME

If it won't fit out the door. Remove the passangers seat and take it out that door.

If the shop is warrantying their work, then do it their way