WME

12K will buy an almost perfect Toy. 7K for the Toy and 5k to fix it up. Take the 12K and start looking. You know about Toys now, get what you want. Toys are cheaper this time of the year. If you settle for less than 12K you better have a GEM in hand, not a gem in the bush.

Stock is a 2 row. I up graded to a 3 row. Never overheated, even pulling a trailer over a 10,000 ft pass

Check the power to the clock. If you have 12v, then its off to the junkyard or ebay to get a used clock.

Is the volt meter good? Check the battery on a different car to see. The reason I ask is all of your readings have been wonkers.

A compressor will have a single outlet. The line goes to a controller there the compressor is turned on and off. There two valves and two gauges. You turn on the compressor and select which side the air goes to and set the air pressure.

There compressor valves that have left, right, both

Just go to ebay and search 100 solar panel. The link I posted for the kit has a store and their 100w panels are $140-160 depending on quality. You should see how much space you have to mount the panel, pocket book allowing get the biggest panel that will fit. My first setup was with a single 60w panel. With normal use 4 days was about all I could do until the battery monitor would be low in the morning. Now I have a 200w panel with a 210ah battery and always have a fully charged battery. Even running the heater at night.

Google Toyota AAP, for info starting problems

http://www.ebay.com/itm/100-W-Watt-100W-Monocrystalline-PV-Solar-Panel-and-Charge-Controller-12V-RV-Boat-/251147929404?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a7995473c $175 for 100w and PWM controller

Remember the line about a new car depreciating $4000 when you drive it off the dealers lot ?? That's cause you have just turned your new car into a used car.

I think that the stuff is a cardboard honeycomb

Both links work for me. Its "MT 5th Wheel" there are 5 photos

There is no magic PSI for airbags. I've always used enough pressure to make the Toy sit level. OR maybe just a tiny bit high in the rear, but no stink bug stance So set the airpressure as the last thing before you leave. P.S. Good shackle/spring bushings are VERY important to ride and handling

http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/minitruckcampers/photos/albums/303366498 Its sold and gone

Don't forget that all the air that goes through the radiator must have a place to go,so don't seal things to tight.

There are plenty of smalltown speedtraps. Radar detectors work at 35 mph as well as 75 mph. RVs with out of state plates are prime catches.

Ya pays yer money and ya makes yer choice http://www.jegs.com/c/Fans_Electric-Fans/10117/10002/-1 Pushers, pullers. Most have cfm rating and amp draw.

To small of a plug gap will make an engine idle bad. As long as there is clearance on a valve things are ok. Even if the exhaust was at 009 you would be ok. But you would have to readjust real soon. Try correct plug gap before messing with the valves.

Google ZUK MOD Its what your talking about

Fuel fill hose can be had at NAPA. Remove your old set and see what you need. This stuff is expensive so get only what you need. When I rebuilt mine I used muffler tubing and the rubber fill line so I didn't need to buy so much.

A spring is rated in lbs per inch for deflection. Leaf springs come with a designed arch in them. When you add load the spring will deflect based on the load. It also grows longer, thus you need shackles at least at one end. As the spring ages (wears out due to constant overload) the arch becomes less so with the same weight it deflects about the same amount, but it is starting from a flatter arch so the back end sags. Adding leafs increases the spring rate (stiffness) so even though the main spring has less arch the spring rate goes up and the spring pack deflects less. So the back end comes up. Of course the rig rides harder Re-arching springs is normally a waste of time and money as most places do it cold, ie just rebend the sucker big time. Re-arching hot and re-tempering will restore the spring to almost new. But there are VERY few places that can do this. Re-arching cold and adding extra springs will last longer but eventually it will sag too as the extra leafs are caring a lot of the load. Best is a new spring pack with the correct capacity, airbags would be next best. .

For sure, but they was familiar rocks after 8 years. Kinda of like moving the furniture around in a blind persons home.

I pick up 3 yards of a quilted insulated fabric at the local fabric store. The stuff was 7 layers, fabric, quilting, thermal barrier, then backwards. So it was the same on both sides. No idea the real name or brand. I used it as a divider between the cab and house in cold weather.

The universal boards run in the $80 range

You know about these guys ?? http://www.dinosaurelectronics.com/index.htm