cliffhanger4 Posted May 29, 2017 Share Posted May 29, 2017 Hi I'm new to the site and Toyota Rving. I just picked up a 1991 Toyota Winnebago Warrior. It was only used to travel from Toronto to Florida for last 20 years. So the Interior is great some fading of the decals and a little roof work. It also came with all the receipts for 20 years. I'm just going around every seam in the roof and resealing them with the Dicor lap sealer (a little slow but getting there) and caulking all the seams front to back.Then I need to wash the roof. My question is the roof top air conditioner is not sitting flat on the roof see picture. Should it be? I didn't want to mess with it unless I had to. It doesn't seem to leak but doesn't look right. Also as you can see in the picture the metal roof is showing. They must have had a roof rack or something on it. The rest of the roof seems to have a painted rubber on it. Does anyone know what kind it is so i can paint this section. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted May 29, 2017 Share Posted May 29, 2017 You might be due for a new A/C gasket. http://bryantrv.com/roofacleaks.html https://www.google.ca/search?q=rv+air+conditioner+gasket&source=lnms&tbm=vid&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjhntTr95XUAhWm8YMKHb8PAHEQ_AUIDCgD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanAatTheCape Posted May 29, 2017 Share Posted May 29, 2017 I am quite familiar with your make - everyone I have seen sags a bit where the AC is mounted. If there are no signs of leaking I would be very slow to mess with it. In storage, I would make sure one end is up a bit so the rood will drain . The problem is that the mfg did not put trusses directly under the AC opening. I have seen one where the AC had been mounted on what appeared to be angle iron with a metal frame - essentially sandwiched between the AC and the roof. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cliffhanger4 Posted May 30, 2017 Author Share Posted May 30, 2017 thanks Great links. I should probably just buy a new gasket,. remove the AC unit clean it on the ground, clean the roof area and reinstall it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vrocrider Posted May 30, 2017 Share Posted May 30, 2017 I put 2 new gaskets in a few years back. One stacked on other. If I recall correctly reason was to get A/C up off roof so crude wouldn't accumulate so much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjrbus Posted May 30, 2017 Share Posted May 30, 2017 Never a bad idea to replace 20+ year old rubber on a vintage Toy. Not a hard job to replace gasket, I keep a couple pieces of plywood around to spread out the weight when I go on roof. Gasket fasteners have a torque value, so do not over tighten!! 20 inch pounds is the spec I have read for torque, no inch torque wrench? Snug, do not use lots of pressure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted May 30, 2017 Share Posted May 30, 2017 Your bare metal roof also needs to be coated with a Kool Seal type product. https://www.google.com/#q=elastomeric+roof+coating&spf=1496172895098 That aluminum roof is known to get tiny pitting where it can leak even though you can't see it. Protect it before then. Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markwilliam1 Posted May 30, 2017 Share Posted May 30, 2017 Like Linda posted, I used Snow Seal (made by Cool Seal a Sherwin Williams Co.) on my metal roof last year and am very satisfied. It has a 16 year warranty. Good Luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cliffhanger4 Posted May 31, 2017 Author Share Posted May 31, 2017 Thanks everyone for your Information. I found some Cool Seal on sale for $8.93 a quart. Going to pick some up today. Having some issues finding a AC seal. Does anyone know the size of seal I need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted May 31, 2017 Share Posted May 31, 2017 They are universal. Fit all motorhome air conditioners. Any RV repair place or supply store should have them in stock. Look here https://www.google.com/#q=rv+roof+air+conditioner+seal&spf=1496252138120 Might be cheaper to get a gallon of that cool seal. Don't think a quart will be enough. It's very thick Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markwilliam1 Posted May 31, 2017 Share Posted May 31, 2017 I bought a 5 gallon bucket of Snow Seal for my bare metal roof and used around 3 gallons (4 coats) Have some spare for touch ups! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hunkaman Posted May 31, 2017 Share Posted May 31, 2017 linda s , is correct about the "invisible pin holes" !!! -- clean and coat your roof BEFORE it leaks. you will never regret it. joe from dover. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cliffhanger4 Posted June 1, 2017 Author Share Posted June 1, 2017 Thanks everyone for your Information. I found some Cool Seal on sale for $8.93 a quart. Going to pick some up today. Having some issues finding a AC seal. Does anyone know the size of seal I need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cliffhanger4 Posted June 1, 2017 Author Share Posted June 1, 2017 I did notice what looked like some small holes when I was lap sealing the seams and put a dab on the ones I could see. I thought maybe they were from the roof rack they had on it. I do have a tarp on the roof now as I haven't completed the resealing the whole roof. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markwilliam1 Posted June 1, 2017 Share Posted June 1, 2017 Hey Cliff, it's quite a process to reseal a roof properly and a quart of paint ain't gunna do it! It took me days to paint my roof with Snow Seal. It's Very thick and you need to put on more than 1 coat. It goes on blue but dries white. Takes time to dry depending on the humidity. I cleaned my metal roof with acetone before applying the paint. The surface must be clean for the paint to stick. You also need to remove all the old caulking and re-apply lap sealent. I also replaced all the screws under the edge trim with larger Stainless Steel screws and applied sealant over them before replacing the trim. I don't think you can over do it up there so take your time and do it right! My 2 cents. Good Luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vrocrider Posted June 1, 2017 Share Posted June 1, 2017 (edited) Take to plastic grill/cover off the inside to access nameplate for A/C. Use model number to get exact gasket replacement. You have to remove grill to replace gasket so no wasted effort. Edited June 1, 2017 by vrocrider Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted June 1, 2017 Share Posted June 1, 2017 AFAIK, all the roof A/Cs we're likely to encounter on a Toyota fit in an Industry Standard 14" square vent opening. Of course, Winnebago has their own 'Standard' which is still 14" square but with radiused corners. I assume having the radius didn't hinder installing a Standard roof A/C. https://www.amazon.com/Camco-25071-Universal-Conditioner-Gasket/dp/B000EDUTNQ I'm not sure if installing 2 is a good idea or necessary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cliffhanger4 Posted June 7, 2017 Author Share Posted June 7, 2017 I picked up a 14 x 14 air conditioning seal. will try to install it next week. I would like to remove the unit, clean it up on the grd also clean the roof up under it and re apply another coat or 2 of rubber roof paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.