DanAatTheCape Posted April 27, 2016 Share Posted April 27, 2016 I had the dreaded code 52 (knock sensor) so I decided to change the knock sensor harness and after seeing how bad the sensor looked I changed it too. Since I had the plenum off and was looking at the valve covers I decided to measure the lash - all the intakes were fine and all the exhausts were too tight. I bought one if the tools which helped on some of the valves but I could not position it on others. On those I used a bent screwdriver. The curved metal tool which I found frustrating at first actually was quite helpful. The trick is positioning it on the edge of the bucket. I used a pointed tool and small magnet to extract the adjustment shims. I have always been good at math but the first time I tried to replace the shims, 3 did not work out right so another trip to my toyota dealer. All in all quite a job, Broke the EGR while removing the plenum so it is blocked off/ disconnected - for now and probably for a while to come.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted April 27, 2016 Share Posted April 27, 2016 For the record, how many miles on the engine? Any record of the valves ever being checked before? How tight were the exhaust valves? I'm assuming there were no symptoms to warn that they were tight. Do you find it feels any different to drive with correct clearances? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted April 27, 2016 Share Posted April 27, 2016 I've got an engine here that had the exhaust valves too tight . John Deere, not a Toyota. Ran fine but seemed a little low on power. Main issue was it started OK cold but was miserable to start when hot. Had almost zero clearance on the exhausts when cold and I suppose they were held partially open when hot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjrbus Posted April 28, 2016 Share Posted April 28, 2016 9 hours ago, DanAatTheCape said: I had the dreaded code 52 (knock sensor) so I decided to change the knock sensor harness and after seeing how bad the sensor looked I changed it too. Since I had the plenum off and was looking at the valve covers I decided to measure the lash - all the intakes were fine and all the exhausts were too tight. I bought one if the tools which helped on some of the valves but I could not position it on others. On those I used a bent screwdriver. The curved metal tool which I found frustrating at first actually was quite helpful. The trick is positioning it on the edge of the bucket. I used a pointed tool and small magnet to extract the adjustment shims. I have always been good at math but the first time I tried to replace the shims, 3 did not work out right so another trip to my toyota dealer. All in all quite a job, Broke the EGR while removing the plenum so it is blocked off/ disconnected - for now and probably for a while to come.. And no pictures?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanAatTheCape Posted April 28, 2016 Author Share Posted April 28, 2016 I thought about some pic's - but did not take many. Certainly not a project history by any means. But I recall all the steps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaunt Posted April 28, 2016 Share Posted April 28, 2016 Ugh... such a PITA job to do... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanAatTheCape Posted April 28, 2016 Author Share Posted April 28, 2016 21 hours ago, Derek up North said: For the record, how many miles on the engine? Any record of the valves ever being checked before? How tight were the exhaust valves? I'm assuming there were no symptoms to warn that they were tight. Do you find it feels any different to drive with correct clearances? The engine is at 95k. Last summer I was in Colorado and overheated - lower radiator hose had come off. I had done the timing belt job before the trip. Not sure if the hose came off because it was not properly installed (likely) or if a head gasket or head issue pressurized the cooling system. Anyway I had to make a work around for the knock sensor issue (code 52) and limped home. The lash was quite tight. here is the BEFORE : 2016-03-04- 95480 checked valve clearance in ex 1 .011 .007 2 .011 .007 3 .009 .005 4 .009 .004 5 .010 .007 6 .011 .002 maybe .003 specs: intake .007-.011 exhaust .009-.013 Here is the after: 2016-03-29 95480 Replaced knock sensor, knock sensor harness, adjusted exhaust valves. Broke EGR - it is now blocked, removed water coolant lines to EGR. Cleaned fuel injectors (none were clogged). ex settings after adjustment 1 .011 2 .013 3 .012 4 .013 5 .013 6 .013 AS for how it runs, it does seem stronger now. I am in florida so no mountains here to test it. I also did so many things it is hard to determine cause effect. I plan to take a 3 or 4 gas tank trip around florida's state parks to see what the mileage is now. I am thinking that will be informative. When I limped back from out west I was getting 12 at the best. Before the trouble I was getting a little better then 14. I My thoughts are that when I engine is not running "right", one has to push the gas pedal deeper to get the same (prior) performance. If you notice cylinder #6 was really tight, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted April 28, 2016 Share Posted April 28, 2016 (edited) Yea #6 always seems to be the problem child, because of the extra exhaust heat from the exhaust crossover Edited April 28, 2016 by WME Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
payaso del mar Posted April 28, 2016 Share Posted April 28, 2016 Dan, all I can tell you is that the job is EVEN WORSE when that same V6 is transversely mounted in a Sienna........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanAatTheCape Posted May 7, 2016 Author Share Posted May 7, 2016 (edited) here are a few pics..... 1_ pic of tools I bought to adjust valves. The little tool is used to hold the shim bucket down, It has 2 ends - the larger one gives enough clearance to get the shim out. When I used the plier looking thing (it worked on 4 or 5 cylinders - obstructions stopped it on the others) I could use the large end. On the other cylinders, I had to use a bent screwdriver, use the small end to hold the cup & shim down while I repositioned the screwdriver to compress the shim & bucket enough to get the larger end on the edge of the bucket. Using the little tool was quite frustrating at first. But I got the hang of it and found it useful. Getting the tool to set on the edge of the bucket is the trick. The round thing is a shim. I think they are 28mm diameter Edited May 7, 2016 by DanAatTheCape Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ctgriffi Posted May 11, 2016 Share Posted May 11, 2016 This job, and the tools involved, look very similar to valve adjustment on Toyota's 5SFE, which I did a few years back and documented here. Glad to know this 'cause I'll probably need to adjust valves on my Warrior one of these days... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
payaso del mar Posted May 11, 2016 Share Posted May 11, 2016 actually very similar to most any shim-over-bucket arrangement.....I was even able to use the tools I bought for air cooled Yamahas and my '88 Kaw 750 when I did the Taco. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanAatTheCape Posted May 13, 2016 Author Share Posted May 13, 2016 bent screw driver can suffice for compressing the valve. The small tool was useful, albeit frustrating till I realized that I had to place it on the edge of the bucket Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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