DanAatTheCape Posted August 30, 2015 Share Posted August 30, 2015 I had to replace my center rod & idler now my toe in is way out. The toyota service manual I have shows a number of different setting in the list of possible vehicles that have the 185r14 tires. Anybody have any insight into what might be the "best choice" of settings? Attached is the pages that list all the possibilities..... from toyota anyway ToyotaManualFEA2.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted August 31, 2015 Share Posted August 31, 2015 What is your model #? that should tell you what you need to know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtdave2 Posted August 31, 2015 Share Posted August 31, 2015 I just did the same thing. you can get them close but you will need an alignment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted August 31, 2015 Share Posted August 31, 2015 I had to replace my center rod & idler now my toe in is way out. The toyota service manual I have shows a number of different setting in the list of possible vehicles that have the 185r14 tires. Anybody have any insight into what might be the "best choice" of settings? Attached is the pages that list all the possibilities..... from toyota anyway Most any vehicle is supposed to achieve zero toe-in or toe-out when driving down the road. Toe-in setting of maybe 1/16th of an inch is based on some play in the steering linkage so when rolling - the slop tightens up and the front wheels are perfectly parallel. I'd push against the inside of the front of the two tires outwards, set at 1/16th or 1/8 th and call it good. Not a real critical adjustment as far as handling goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted August 31, 2015 Share Posted August 31, 2015 I just did the same thing. you can get them close but you will need an alignment. Why would anyone need an alignment after changing a center-link and idler arm? It has no effect on caster or camber. Only on front wheel parallel setting, i.e. toe-in. Easy to do with a measuring stick, tape measure, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanAatTheCape Posted August 31, 2015 Author Share Posted August 31, 2015 <<<<Why would anyone need an alignment after changing a center-link and idler arm? It has no effect on caster or camber. Only on front wheel parallel setting, i.e. toe-in. Easy to do with a measuring stick, tape measure, etc.>>>>>>> that is what I said in my original post. If you read the attached PDF, there are a number if models listed with the tires we use (185r14). Hence, I am looking for what the actual correct spec's are for a cab & chassis dual rear tires micro motorhome. Going to check my ball joints today - then assuming they are in within spec, set toe in and probably go somewhere and get it checked by someone with the right equipment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanAatTheCape Posted August 31, 2015 Author Share Posted August 31, 2015 Update: checked ball joints using the jack stand/ pry bar on locked wheels to check uppers - no play. Used pry bar on lower control arm to check lowers, no play. Tape measured distance between front & rear of tires measuring as close to center height as possible. Found 1" difference. Adjusted tie rod link 1 full turn, now I have 5/16 difference. Manual calls for 5/32 difference which is measured from center of axle. Also discovered that I have a VZN95L-TWSREA6. When I googled on this I found a toyota parts page that displayed this when given my VIN. http://www.japan-parts.eu/toyota/eu/1993/4-runner-truck/vzn95l-twsrea6/3_672450_071_/tool-engine-fuel, entered VIN, selected the bottom of the 2 choices (the top had manual tranny) Obtained VZN95L-TWSREA6 - the rest of the VIN info matched._ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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