bvsajjan Posted July 23, 2015 Share Posted July 23, 2015 When I am hooked up to external AC, automatically the battery charger kicks in. I am curious what turns it off? And also if I can manually keep it off? I now have a good solar panel system which charges my house battery sufficiently. I don't want to cook the battery.... Thanks for your help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob C Posted July 23, 2015 Share Posted July 23, 2015 There are several different brands of converters used in these RV's. Can you take a photo of the converter and also the fuse panel? What is the brand and model of the RV. Maybe someone will have the same as you and help you out. My personal Rv has a converter that plugs into the 120 volt line and then has output lines that go to the fuse panel and battery. If I wanted to disconnect my 12 volt from my 120 volt system, I can just unplug the converter. I don't need to do that because I have replaced the stock converter with a "smart" converter that reads the condition of the battery and sends the appropriate charge. If the battery is fully charged, the converter does not send anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bvsajjan Posted July 23, 2015 Author Share Posted July 23, 2015 Whoops! Of course... sorry! 1990 Toyota Odyssey 6cyl Auto. Progresive Dynamics Inverter Model # PD7231 I am happy with it as an inverter! But now with the addition of Solar Panels to charge my house battery, it is an overkill to the battery I think! I will try to download a photo.... BV Sajjan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted July 23, 2015 Share Posted July 23, 2015 Whoops! Of course... sorry! 1990 Toyota Odyssey 6cyl Auto. Progresive Dynamics Inverter Model # PD7231 I am happy with it as an inverter! But now with the addition of Solar Panels to charge my house battery, it is an overkill to the battery I think! I will try to download a photo.... BV Sajjan I assume you mean a "converter" and not an "inverter." Two totally different things. If you have the PD 7231 model "R" converter, it has the auto-switch transformer that swiitches automatically via a transformer when you plug it into an active 115-120 volt AC outlet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bvsajjan Posted July 23, 2015 Author Share Posted July 23, 2015 (edited) I need to know if it is possible to disengage the charger in the converter, please? The add file feature of these posts is not uploading my photos... thanks ya baby! Is there a feature to not use the charging feature of this converter and use the other features? Edited July 23, 2015 by bvsajjan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bvsajjan Posted July 23, 2015 Author Share Posted July 23, 2015 Ok, I downloaded a owner's manual for this model... It says that the battery charging is automatic! It has a feature of a red light that when fully charging is constant red. Trickle charging at 90% flashing red. Red light off. Fully charged! But the light comes on constant when plugged in at first! And then it stays constant for hours. But the battery is fully charged from the solar panels. Any comments? Suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted July 23, 2015 Share Posted July 23, 2015 http://www.progressivedyn.com/pdfs/pd7200%20owners.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bvsajjan Posted July 23, 2015 Author Share Posted July 23, 2015 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted July 23, 2015 Share Posted July 23, 2015 It's the original charger converter and it might not be switching to trickle down mode properly. Might be time to upgrade. Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bvsajjan Posted July 24, 2015 Author Share Posted July 24, 2015 This converter although old has worked great for the 3 years I have had it. Only once I had to use a jewelers file to clean the contacts on the magnetic connectors that switch the system from battery to the AC power. Anyone know if the battery charger circuit board can be modified? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted July 24, 2015 Share Posted July 24, 2015 I need to know if it is possible to disengage the charger in the converter, please? The add file feature of these posts is not uploading my photos... thanks ya baby! Is there a feature to not use the charging feature of this converter and use the other features? Try just unhooking the wire harness plug from the battery-charger circuit board. I suspect that the converter part of the power center will still work this way and just the charger will be eliminated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted July 24, 2015 Share Posted July 24, 2015 If you'd rather fix the charger - this guy sells new boards for the PD power-center. $40 each. dmckay@dan-marc.com Or just call the service department at Progressive Dynamics in Michigan. They fix some of those old boards but have dropped support on many. 269-781-4242 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted July 24, 2015 Share Posted July 24, 2015 Yeah it's an old style charger it is not real well regulated but it's not a high amp unit either I would not leave it on long term but you should be OK while you are camping. Usually they were wired directly to the power cord so if you are plugged in it's on. There are ways around it but a little complex and not real automatic. Like Linda said a modern upgrade would cure a lot of issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bvsajjan Posted July 24, 2015 Author Share Posted July 24, 2015 I removed the wire harness from the battery charger circuit board and bingo! The unit still powers the 12V system and 120V refrigerator, but is not charging the battery! Thanks yababy! :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted July 24, 2015 Share Posted July 24, 2015 This converter although old has worked great for the 3 years I have had it. I realize you have not expressed a need for a working battery charger, just the converter part of the power center. That being said, I figured I'd add this info anyway (perhaps for someone else). RVs have two battery systems - engine cranking and "house" and hopefully those two systems are normally isolated from each other when the RV is parked. When a converter works well - except for the battery charger option - or even when the charger DOES work - there's another great option for battery charging. A dual-output marine-type on-board charger. I have them in all my RVs and love them. All batteries self-discharge whether hooked to something or not. I.e. they all do dead when sitting around not being charged. Many if not most RVs spend a lot of time sitting parked. A dual-output charger gives a separate high-tech battery maintenance to all the batteries in an RV - cranking and "house." Just hard-wire it in, and plug in the one AC cord when parked in storage - and all batteries are maintained. I've had three of them now for 5 years with no issues. My 1988 Minicruiser has one cranking battery and two type 29 deep-cycle "house" batteries. When I park, I just plug in the one lead cord and all the batteries are kept at a perfect state of charge. you can buy these dual-output chargers for $100 new if you shop around Cheaper yet if you buy used on Ebay. I don't know of any RV converter power-centers that offer the "all batteries in the RV charge" function. May be one out there but I'm not aware of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Back East Don Posted July 24, 2015 Share Posted July 24, 2015 I realize you have not expressed a need for a working battery charger, just the converter part of the power center. That being said, I figured I'd add this info anyway (perhaps for someone else). RVs have two battery systems - engine cranking and "house" and hopefully those two systems are normally isolated from each other when the RV is parked. When a converter works well - except for the battery charger option - or even when the charger DOES work - there's another great option for battery charging. A dual-output marine-type on-board charger. I have them in all my RVs and love them. All batteries self-discharge whether hooked to something or not. I.e. they all do dead when sitting around not being charged. Many if not most RVs spend a lot of time sitting parked. A dual-output charger gives a separate high-tech battery maintenance to all the batteries in an RV - cranking and "house." Just hard-wire it in, and plug in the one AC cord when parked in storage - and all batteries are maintained. I've had three of them now for 5 years with no issues. My 1988 Minicruiser has one cranking battery and two type 29 deep-cycle "house" batteries. When I park, I just plug in the one lead cord and all the batteries are kept at a perfect state of charge. you can buy these dual-output chargers for $100 new if you shop around Cheaper yet if you buy used on Ebay. I don't know of any RV converter power-centers that offer the "all batteries in the RV charge" function. May be one out there but I'm not aware of it. On mine, I installed a bypass relay so that I can energize the isolation relay with a simple flip of a switch. It was an easy bandaid for a so so battery under the hood. I hit a switch and the house battery is my jump start battery. Or if I want to make sure both batteries are charged up while plugged in. I've read pro's and cons on trickle chargers. Lead Acid Batteries will only self discharge approximately 5% per month if in good shape. I just make sure to start up the RV at least once every couple months. Rather than deal with power out to where I park the RV, I decided a battery cut off switch was a more apt solution for me. This way I know there is no chance of something inadvertently discharging the house battery and I can live with the small self loss. In the winter, I take the batteries in, charge them up and leave them for the winter on a shelf in the basement. This year I got rid of the so so battery along with a new house battery. No plans to change methodology. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted July 24, 2015 Share Posted July 24, 2015 I leave mine plugged in when it's parked with a modern 3 stage converter/charger I did have to replace a 5 year old battery though imagine that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted July 24, 2015 Share Posted July 24, 2015 I used to leave mine always plugged in and I have an old stupid power center. No step down charger at all. My batteries still lasted 5 years. Just checked the water a lot. I was just too lazy to empty my fridge all the time and I liked being ready at a moments notice to take off. I am ashamed to say it took me 11 years to figure out I could just open the fridge panel on the outside and plug my fridge into the extension cord directly. No adapter needed either. Battery charger bypassed. Let you know in 5 or more years if it made my battery last any longer. Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted July 24, 2015 Share Posted July 24, 2015 Batteries self-discharge and when allowed to sit that way, get a shorter life. Yes, some only lose 5% per month when fairly new but others lose a lot more. An AGM battery in good shape loses 3.5% per month @ 75 degrees F and 7% per month at 95 degrees F. A standard FLA (flooded lead acid) battery like most cars and trucks have - loses 10% per month at 75 degrees F. A heavy-duty starting battery with lots of antimony inside it loses twice that per month. Whether that matters to anyone is a different issue. Since I started using battery mantainers - 8 years ago, I've had no batteries crap out prematurely. In fact, the first set were the pair of cranking batteries in my Ford F250 diesel. A few months over 8 years and they are still fine - but I just changed them anyway. I don't trust an 8 year old plus set of batteries out on the road. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bvsajjan Posted July 25, 2015 Author Share Posted July 25, 2015 Now I have this solar power system and when I leave it for storage... it will continue to charge if needed. thanks for this info, and help... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GinjaTurtle Posted March 7, 2016 Share Posted March 7, 2016 I just unplugged wiring harness from the charger board on my 88 Odyssey (PD 7231 Power Box) and it worked like a charm! I am now charging with my Marinco Guest dual output charger and Renogy solar. Thanks for having this discussion, it saved me hours of trouble. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted March 7, 2016 Share Posted March 7, 2016 I've had my Guest dual-output charger now for 9 years and it has been in three different vehicles. It has worked flawlessly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GinjaTurtle Posted March 7, 2016 Share Posted March 7, 2016 Do you have the one with the alternator input? I have that one, but I haven't hooked up that part yet. I am curious whether my little Toyota alternator is going to be able to even turn that charger on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted March 7, 2016 Share Posted March 7, 2016 No. Mine is a Guest 2610A. Has dual outputs. One for each battery or battery bank. No alternator hook up. I could if I wanted to. That is run the output for the "cranking battery" to the output terminal on the alternator instead of the battery. Still wind up in the same place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted March 9, 2016 Share Posted March 9, 2016 I use a standard on board modern charger and a combiner does both batteries just fine leave it on all winter long. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted March 9, 2016 Share Posted March 9, 2016 On 2016-03-08 at 8:19 PM, Maineah said: I use a standard on board modern charger and a combiner does both batteries just fine leave it on all winter long. What does "standard" mean? In this context, what does "combiner" mean? All a person has to do it put a jumper wire on the isolator when parked and they have a defacto combiner. One advantage with the marine dual-output charger has is that it keeps the "house" battery system separate from the "cranking" battery system and requires no fooling around with anything. Just park and plug it in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 Sounds to me like what a combiner does. A switching charger well regulated nothing special standard issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanAatTheCape Posted May 27, 2016 Share Posted May 27, 2016 If I stay plugged in for more than a day, I would unhook one of the terminals from my house battery. Most converters are supposed to step down the charging voltage as the battery voltage rises. How well that works is another issue,,,,, MY camper (93 winnie warrior) is set up to disconnect the battery when 120vac is detected, then the converter provides 12vdc for the cabin and charges the house battery. On mine, when the battery has run down, the converter cooling fan kicks on when the draw is high - either from charging the battery or because of high draw in the cabin (lights, 12v fan etc). A multi meter is handy for monitoring what is going on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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