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I started on my project today, it went reasonably well. Of course the fan shroud is broken. I will try to repair the shroud. The nuts on the fan are not new and worn, so I had to stop and go buy a #12 6 point metric wrench. Also the fan nuts must be torqued to 4000 ft lbs or are they installed with locktite? Was raining when we came home, so only got radiator and battery out today.

First day, I obviously do not have enough metric tools, bought some, ordered some. Spent 45 minutes on the internet trying to figure out how to remove the grill, will give that a try tomorrow.

I will have to start and stop early each day due to the heat here in FL, it is also rainy season. So I am thinking about 2 weeks to do this. So will likely take me a month to six weeks.

I hope the flanged hex nuts for the fan are available locally, I do not recall seeing them anyplace? I also need to make up a list of things I need to order. I have not ordered the water pump/timing belt kit, any suggestions on that? Upper and lower radiator hose look very old and the belts appear to be old also, so they will go on the list. Would reusing the original factory clamps be ok, or should they be replaced?

Any input, thoughts, suggestions, ideas greatly appreciated. Jim SW FL

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Replaced mine with good quality stainless steel hose clamps. Springs wear out, I have broken the OEM spring clamps when I was putting 'em back on. New clamps cheap, better safe than sorry.

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I don't remember needing to remove the grill when I did the t-belt on my V6 last fall; shroud and radiator came out just fine with the grill in place. I did pull off my front license plate and drilled a neat hole through the bumper so I could use a long ratchet extension to easily turn the crank pulley. The entire job took the better part of 3-4 days...

I didn't run into any unusually difficult problems except that the AC belt tensioner bolt (the adjusting one) snapped on me; pretty common on these vehicles unfortunately. I torqued the primary bolt on that tensioner (the one that runs straight through the pulley) down very snug, and it seems to be holding tight, not squealing or anything.

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I am also replacing the AC condenser and tranny cooler, so grill comes out. SS clamps it is! It's 4 pm and all I did was open the hood on the Toy to look for my glasses! Jim SW FL

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So far I have removed the grill, radiator, condenser, transmission cooler, fan and timing belt cover. The worst part of the job was the grill, the clips were difficult, I took a looong 1/8" drill bit to some and drilled through them! Ordered new ones online. The fan nuts were also difficult, I bought a six point metric wrench and used an 18 inch pipe on that. I was surprised to find new flanged metric nuts at Home depot.

The timing belt looks excellent, hard to believe it is 14 years old with about 40K miles on it. I do not trust a 14 year old belt so am replacing it! Also the water pump . I was told the water pump would have a date on it, but cannot find a date? Looks OE. The fan shroud was broken, a bit of epoxy on that. The accessory drive belts show many cracks when flexed and the hoses do not look good.

As I take things off I am cleaning and painting, The frame while not rotten has way more rust than expected, I will be cleaning and painting that. Maybe pulling the bumper to get to parts of it?

Am I missing anything? Jim SW FL

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Check out Eastwood.co for anti rust stuff.

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I've pulled a timing belt with 140K miles on it and it looked like new. My fan shroud cracked in two places. I used fiberglass cloth and epoxy to make the repairs. Still holding after 20K miles.

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Here I am flying right along, only 8 days and I am ready to start putting it back together :lol2:This would be going a lot quicker if I knew what I was doing.

I have been stubborn about replacing the timing belt and almost decided against it because it looked so good. As I was taking the belt off I noticed the upper idler bearings are loose, I likely would not have caught that had I not removed the belt!

I put a the breaker bar against the frame and used the starter to remove the crankshaft pulley bolt, disconnecting the coil. Worked very well. I bought a puller to remove the crankshaft pulley and it slid right off, far easier than I expected. I could have used my steering wheel puller.

There is a date on the water pump. Above the word Toyota there is a circle, cleaning it revealed it is stamper 12/92. Likely OE?

The new water pump came with a gasket. Should I use some type of sealer also, what kind of sealer??

Should I use treadlock on the nuts and bolts as I reassemble, what is the preferred type/brand? Anything to watch out for?

Any input always greatly appreciated. Jim SW FL

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I'm sorta old fashion and stuck in my ways. On gaskets I us a product called Gasketchinch. I would use it on the water pump and a little grease on the block side of the gasket. . This will easy removal of the water pump in the future. NEVER USE IT ON BOTH SIDES OF THE GASKET.

Use Loctite 242 on the bolts if you want. It will allow removal with hand tools

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Seemed like the newer water pumps had an extra stud. I recall having to remove one to make the new part fit. Also, the smallest bit of old gasket left on the engine can cause a leak. I used a solvent the second time to get every last bit off.

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3VZE, 6 cyl. My new Aisin water pump came with a metal gasket. There was no gasket on the old pump, the Haynes manual shows no gasket and the FSM shows no gasket for the 6 cyl.

Whats an old guy to do?

The 242 says parts must be clean, that is going to take some time especially the holes. Jim SW FL

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Go to Walmart and get a can of Super Tech carb cleaner, use the extension tube and blast all the bolt holes. It cleans good and doesn't leave a film.

Metal wp gasket ? that's a new one on me. Does it have a rubber bead on it? If it does use it DRY.

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Has the rubber bead so used dry. Got the carb cleaner used it and also used a tap and die to clean threads, They have a grey substance on them that is rock hard and has discolored the metal, not perfect but will have to be good enough.

Tried to install timing belt and something moved, now marks are not lining up :Poster_oops: . Beyond my skill level so have a mobile mechanic :help: coming Monday to set up and install the belt. Will this disqualify me from that coveted "Shade tree mechanic" certificate?

Removed the old AC compressor and lines, this V6 :ranting2: is a real pain to work on!

Any input always greatly appreciated. Jim SW FL

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I didn't know there was a certificate. It is a big job and nerve racking the first time you do it. I've done a couple. The first time was on my daughters Honda Passport (Isuzu Rodeo). I did find a few Youtube video's that I found really helpful in identifying all the line up marks and disassembly tips but you already have it apart so more than half way there.

Still no judgement from me. AC work has always baffled me. I understand the theory but that is a long way from the applied put a wrench to it work.

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