amigotx Posted May 12, 2015 Share Posted May 12, 2015 GREETING FROM RENO, NV JUST PURCHASED 1988 DOLPHIN WITH 76K MILES. WANT TO REPAINT ROOF WITH EPDM LIQUID RUBBER. DIY ESTIMATE IS 3 GALLONS FOR $300. ANY EXPERIENCE/RECOMMENDATIONS REGARDING THIS PRODUCT. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted May 12, 2015 Share Posted May 12, 2015 read through this thread http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=8049&hl=+back+east Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shibs Posted May 13, 2015 Share Posted May 13, 2015 amigo, before you paint, see what Don has done, you hafta take all the stuff off and reseal and same for the top seams. Read the application instructions on the manufacturers webpage, and they also have 1800 # for questions, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Back East Don Posted May 13, 2015 Share Posted May 13, 2015 I'll give you my take on what I figured out from researching and doing the roof. Mine is an 19' Itasca and the calculation called for 3 gallons but only had a length and not width. I found that I could have done the job just fine and with a pretty heavy coat at 1 1/2 gallons. I read a review on Amazon by a guy who did his Toyota who stated that he too purchased 2 gallons and had more than he needed. I decided to do a square foot calculation based on the data sheet for coverage and decided I would be more than good with two gallons and it turned out I was. The primer two part quarts calculated out as just enough to do the square footage. I ended up covering heavy with it and had plenty as I used it all up. I regretted not going lighter where it slopes off because unlike the liquid rubber, it is much thinner and was running like crazy. It takes 10 hours to reach cure point and is meant to stay tacky for up to 48 hours. So best bet is primer late one day and liquid rubber the next. There seems to be a couple of vendors but seem to all be from the same source. Pricing is about similar. Prep work in advance. I am not certain that anyone needs to go to the extent that I did. The primer is meant to seal over asphalt products. If there is roof coatings already on there the only requirement is that it be stable and not flaking off. Heavy cracks need to be screened using fiberglass tape. If there are holes even larger pin holes, flash them with aluminum and lap seal. I decided that I really needed to address a bit more than the surface with mine as I had lots of holes that were not properly repaired. I also wanted to repaint the trim and clean up the lap seal rather than coat over it. How far you take it would depend on what shape things are in up there. Mine was really rough and a few poor attempts to repair it went horribly and inadequately wrong. Taking off the top trim was quick and with a heat gun and stiff putty knife you could get the old stuff at least leveled in a couple hours. The primary advice I would give anyone is to not do what I did and that is focus most of my attention on the interior with a secondary half arsed roof repair. Do it right the first time and seal it up properly. I chased a few leaks for three years after putting a ton of effort in the inside and not enough on the top. It has been extremely frustrating. That all said, I am really glad I went this route. I like the result. It is raining today and so when I got home from work the first thing I did was have a look inside and finally I have not a drip. Two gallons should be enough. Got two gallons, the primer and the mixer for the drill for $264 delivered. Use a short nap roller for the primer but don't bother with brush or roller for the roof stuff. It is too thick. I used a 10" shower squeegee that I picked up for around $4 at home depot. Worked great at spreading it. If it is not cold out it will also self level quite a bit. Go thin where it starts to go vertical to avoid runs. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Back East Don Posted May 13, 2015 Share Posted May 13, 2015 Should also mention that if you do remove the trim you'll want to replace the lap sealant. I got Dicor self leveling 3 packs on Amazon pretty cheap with free shipping. Not sure if 3 would quite get you enough to go back to front on both sides. I went through 4 tubes to do the two seams in the roof, the 3 vents and a half dozen patches. Got 4 more tubes left and am hoping it is enough. Figure about $11-13 a tube. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Back East Don Posted May 13, 2015 Share Posted May 13, 2015 Here is the completed roof. Next up: the front and one side window come out, gets resealed and the front of the berth gets re-painted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted May 13, 2015 Share Posted May 13, 2015 Based on your "experience" could the primer and EPDM have been extended to cover the front of the house. Or is it to steep?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Back East Don Posted May 13, 2015 Share Posted May 13, 2015 Based on your "experience" could the primer and EPDM have been extended to cover the front of the house. Or is it to steep?? Funny you should ask as I considered it. Certainly there was enough of both. Primer would have to be applied thin and even then, take care to cover the cab as it might still drip and run a bit. The documentation stated it was not intended for vertical applications so I gave up on the idea. I was initially considering it but decided to use marine epoxy to patch and fill some of the front rot and paint it instead. Where it curves it was applied very thinly but still covered well. Not sure how stable it would remain as it got steeper though. So the real answer is I don't know for sure. I might have pulled the trigger if I had had the front ready when I did the top but really wanted to get top side water tight so I could stop any further damage to all my work inside. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted May 14, 2015 Share Posted May 14, 2015 http://supermarinepaint.com/marinepaint/pc/Topside-Paints-c5.htm for the fiberglass parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shibs Posted May 14, 2015 Share Posted May 14, 2015 hey Don, Which dicor is the correct dicor for the roof seams, underneath the edge trim - The self leveling one? or the non-self leveling one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Back East Don Posted May 15, 2015 Share Posted May 15, 2015 http://supermarinepaint.com/marinepaint/pc/Topside-Paints-c5.htm for the fiberglass parts. 87 Itasca is aluminum top and sides. Previous owners had a few bangs and bumps. Some pretty bad bondo and paint work. Got primer for aluminum and then automotive enamel. Will fix it up as best I can. Haven't sprayed in over twenty years. Went to the automotive paint shop and asked a ton of questions. Was told that although much of the paint has changed for modern cars, standard one step enamels are pretty much still the same. It's off white, no flakes, non-metallic standard color. A few light coats and it should be better than what is there now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Back East Don Posted May 15, 2015 Share Posted May 15, 2015 hey Don, Which dicor is the correct dicor for the roof seams, underneath the edge trim - The self leveling one? or the non-self leveling one? I picked up both but mostly the self leveling. All the seams up top was self leveling. I plan on the same with the edge trim once I'm done re-painting them. The plan is to lay a bead down then place the trim down with another bead to over lap it. The non-sag is for where it goes vertical at both ends. If it's warm out the self leveling really settles. I don't think it would work well past the curve in the berth or the back. I'm still a couple weeks away. Where I was getting a few days off here and there, I am now really busy at work. 12-16 hour days this week. Got a huge project thats gone completely off the rails. Not much time left till Memorial day. Don't think I'll be done by then but it will be hopefully at least road ready in a few weeks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amigotx Posted May 18, 2015 Author Share Posted May 18, 2015 I appreciate the information. It started to rain (finally) here in Reno, NV so it will be a couple of weeks before I get started on the roof project. I will be working on installing laminate flooring. (Don, I saw the job you did on your flooring and looks very professional). I am fortunate to have a handyman who also owns a 5th wheel to help me with the projects. Between this forum and youtube, I am getting a better picture of how to proceed with the projects. Again, thanks for your help. AMIGOTX Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amigotx Posted May 29, 2015 Author Share Posted May 29, 2015 ANY RECOMMENDATION ON WHAT INSULATION I USE BETWEEN THE LAMINATE AND THE PLYWOOD FLOOR IN THE COACH AREA? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Back East Don Posted May 29, 2015 Share Posted May 29, 2015 When I did mine I used thin luan plywood and topped it with the thinnest laminate flooring I could find and get my wife to agree on. Some of the floating laminate have specific foam padding. Some guys are going the vinyl flooring route which would require a glue down. To save some weight I found a plywood company that carried 1/8" luan. Some subflooring glue in a caulking tube and really short crown staples tacked it into place. How you do yours would depend a lot on what you put in and how you decide to secure it. There are a few challenges with something that moves around on the road. Others might chime in as there are other choices out there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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