Dolphinite no longer here Posted September 17, 2014 Share Posted September 17, 2014 Can anyone tell me where the sail switch is in my furnace and how do I get at it to clean it? I don't have the model number close by but the furnace is the stock one that came with my '85 Dolphin. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whyverne14 Posted September 17, 2014 Share Posted September 17, 2014 That's on my TODO list also. Mine works fine, last guy put in a new Dino board. Squeals a bit though. I'd like to clean and lubricate. Does the whole thing just slide out? I don't know these things yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanAatTheCape Posted September 20, 2014 Share Posted September 20, 2014 on my camper, (93 win warrior), if you pull the grate off & look straight in the opening where the warm air exits the furnace, the sail switch can be seen to one side. curious why you think you have a sail switch problem? I did have a sticky sail switch on my last camper - I took a coat hanger, cut & carefully bent it to hold the switch out for testing purposes. I found that just exercising it some helped a lot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted September 21, 2014 Share Posted September 21, 2014 They are easy to remove if the motor is squealing it's the only way. Hint the screws have to be removed from the outside vent in order to get it out. The sail switch is part of a proofing chain it's operation can be checked at the board 3 things have to be meet in order for the board to open the gas valve. The thermostat, over heat switch, and the sail switch all have to be closed. If you have power to the board at the control pin (different modules have different pins) then the gas valve should open. Some of the better boards have an LED in that chain that will light when there is power. The sail switch is a very simple device and generally if the air flow is not restricted (bugs in the intake or weak battery) likely as not it will work. Most of the units I have repaired have all had faulty boards IMHO the Dinosaur boards can't be beat and if it some times does not light and other times it will replace the board nothing worse that standing in front of a furnace blowing cold air on your bare feet at 2 in the morning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whyverne14 Posted September 21, 2014 Share Posted September 21, 2014 Thanks Maine. Haven't had time to check it out yet. The furnace works, still playing with the things that don't work. I'll get in there eventually. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Debbit Posted November 18, 2014 Share Posted November 18, 2014 Yesterday the furnace worked intermittently. Today fan blew but did not ignite. Assuming the sail switch. Will check it out. Can the squeal be fixed? It goes away when it warms up (if it warms up) The furnace on the dolphin seized up after a few days of squealing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted November 18, 2014 Share Posted November 18, 2014 Yesterday the furnace worked intermittently. Today fan blew but did not ignite. Assuming the sail switch. Will check it out. Can the squeal be fixed? It goes away when it warms up (if it warms up) The furnace on the dolphin seized up after a few days of squealing. The "squeal" is the Oil-Lite bearings. They are porous bronze bushings with 30 W motor oil soaked into them. When they warm up from a shaft spinning inside - they are supposed to release some of that lube and get quiet. They DO dry out over time. They can be taken apart and recharged but it's no easy task. You can also upgrade to a more pricey blower motor that uses ball bearings. That all being said, the Oil-Lite bearings have been around for many years and generally work OK. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustrmrk Posted October 22, 2015 Share Posted October 22, 2015 I've been having an interesting problem w/ my Isotherm 12,000 btu furnace. It only seems to start if the batteries are above 12.7 vdc or so. The motor squealed a bit the first few times I started it, but now it seems to be fine. My current assumption is that the blower needs the higher voltage to spin fast enough to close the sail switch. I have very limited access to the side of the furnace, so I tried pulling it, but after disconnecting the gas line and removing the screws that secure the flange to the cabinetry, I was unable to pull it out by gentle rocking / pulling. Being on the road and not wanting to screw something up, I decided to put it off until I was someplace w/ access to parts for a few days. We are in Tempe, AZ visiting a friend, so now is a great time to work on it. After disconnecting the wiring and board connector during my aborted removal attempt, and reconnecting it all, the heater started fine for 2 mornings at 12.25 - 12.4 vdc. The third morning it failed to start until I ran the genset and battery charger to get the voltage up to 12.7 - then it fired right up and kept running after I shut down the genset. Electrical parts cleaner on the board connector had no effect. I just read that I need to remove the screws from the exhaust to remove the unit, so I'll be giving that a shot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjrbus Posted October 22, 2015 Share Posted October 22, 2015 I did not remove the outside screws to remove. Took a bit of brute force to remove. May have to remove them to reinstall? The sail switch should be located in the square tube on the bottom, going from front to rear, not 100% sure on that? Jim Left click to enlarge photos Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted October 23, 2015 Share Posted October 23, 2015 Nothing in the outside port for the furnace like a bee's nest? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustrmrk Posted October 23, 2015 Share Posted October 23, 2015 I'll be checking for that and, probably also pulling the furnace today. I'll let you all know what I find. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustrmrk Posted October 23, 2015 Share Posted October 23, 2015 Nothing visible from outside, so I pulled the unit. Opened the blower cover and found .... a mess of sunflower seeds!!?!?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustrmrk Posted October 23, 2015 Share Posted October 23, 2015 The hose between the fan and the burner was also packed w/ mud dauber mud. Took it all loose, cleaned it out, put it together, and it seems to be working. Here are a few photos that show the sail switch and its location. On my 12,000 BTU HydroFlame, facing the furnace, it's on the right side under the fan cover. I removed the two screws that hold the fan assembly onto the furnace (one on top and one on the bottom) and the whole fan assembly lifted right out. The sail switch is under the fan assembly - in my furnace, it's got two white wires going to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjrbus Posted October 24, 2015 Share Posted October 24, 2015 Mine has a screen on the exhaust like this. I am NOT recommending this one just using it as an example. Mine is held on with springs. Jim http://www.walmart.com/ip/29764377?wmlspartner=wlpa&adid=22222222227021475579&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=40838462552&wl4=&wl5=pla&wl6=78652101272&veh=sem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustrmrk Posted October 26, 2015 Share Posted October 26, 2015 Jim, Great suggestion - thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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