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What auto transmission do I need -1986 Odyssey?


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We are having transmission trouble, starting with the MH being reluctant to shift up for the first trip out this spring.

Was fine after warming up, but did it again, after sitting a few days. Fine again, after warming up.

Fast forward to some more sitting over the summer and now it won't shift out of 1st at all.

Fluid levels are fine, and it looks/smells nice and clean.

I'm trying to figure out worst case scenario prices, and looking at getting a new/used tranny, but have been asked if it needs to be 1 1/2 ton or 1 ton version.

We have the 6 lug rear axle and 5 lug front.

Can someone help me out and let me know which exact model we would need, please?

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Suzanne's transmission was shifting a little slow until it warmed up. Then her mechanic took a look at it and he told her it shifted fine. Now it won't shift out of first at all. Is there an adjustment that can be done in the linkage or is it toast. If anyone has any idea's please let us know.

Linda S

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there is something called a kick back cable.

Im looking through trouble shooting guides for you, and looking for possible solutions that dont include RR transmission.

not that i think these are your problem necessarily just what could be cheap.

there are shift solenoids also.

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It is possible your cable that goes to the transmission is bound up. There are two cables one goes the the pedal the other to the trans. find the one that goes to the transmission and pull it with you finger there should be very little slack in the cable and it should move very freely. It is held against spring tension and should return all the way back in. This is what controls the shift points if its bound up the trans acts the same as if you have your foot to the floor. It is not a fun task to replace the cable but a lot cheaper that an overhaul. There are other things that can cause this that no amount of oil changes or filter cleaning will help so I hope for your sake the cable is bad.

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A couple things to look at;

If you have the A43D tranny (3 speed with OD)

1) Make sure the fluid level is OK (Start truck, shift it into all gears for a few seconds each, then in park, leave truck running, check fluid level.

2) Look at shift throttle cable (see PDF file) make sure its adjusted correctly.

3) Climb under the truck, where the drive shaft enters the rear of the tranny, wiggle the drive shaft back and forth (put the truck in neutral, chock the tires so it won't roll). There should be almost zero play, and there shouldn't be any fluid leaking.

JOhn Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto (For Sale)

88_TOYOTA_ATF.pdf

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Thanks, everyone!

I thought I'd get an email, if someone posts on the thread, but I didn't.

Reverse and 1st are fine, but it's not shifting up from 1st.

The kickdown cable does not retract, when accelerator is not pressed.

Could that cause it to not shift up at all?

It goes into reverse just fine. Would it do that, if the cable was the culprit?

Fluid level is fine, and color/smell is, too. Looks brand new.

Transmission was rebuilt 5000k ago, according to previous owner.

Got to go to work now, and won't have time to crawl under the truck until this weekend, but we haven't noticed any leaks.

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Thanks, everyone!

I thought I'd get an email, if someone posts on the thread, but I didn't.

Reverse and 1st are fine, but it's not shifting up from 1st.

The kickdown cable does not retract, when accelerator is not pressed.

Could that cause it to not shift up at all?

It goes into reverse just fine. Would it do that, if the cable was the culprit?

Fluid level is fine, and color/smell is, too. Looks brand new.

Transmission was rebuilt 5000k ago, according to previous owner.

Got to go to work now, and won't have time to crawl under the truck until this weekend, but we haven't noticed any leaks.

Could you elaborate on that a bit? If there is slack in the cable when the throttle is released it's bound up. There is a ring that is crimped to the cable that should contact the outer jacket when the throttle is not depressed or come damn close if it's hanging out that most likely is your problem. First and reverse don't have any thing to do with your present issue. There are two things that control the up shift the throttle cable called a throttle valve or TV rod and the governor either of they not working properly it won't shift up or be very delayed. Miss adjustment will just change the pattern either shift late or too soon and it is some thing that should last the life of the cable.once adjusted. If it is stuck it means removal of the pan and the cable figure 2 to 4 hours. Any exhaust work done recently? It been a long time since I have done one but sort of remember guys torching them while doing exhaust work.

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Thanks again!

I'll try to take a photo of the throttle cable in both positions, tomorrow, in daylight.

No recent exhaust work. PO did some exhaust work before selling, but that was 2 years ago, and the transmission was working fine then.

Could you elaborate on that a bit? If there is slack in the cable when the throttle is released it's bound up. There is a ring that is crimped to the cable that should contact the outer jacket when the throttle is not depressed or come damn close if it's hanging out that most likely is your problem. First and reverse don't have any thing to do with your present issue. There are two things that control the up shift the throttle cable called a throttle valve or TV rod and the governor either of they not working properly it won't shift up or be very delayed. Miss adjustment will just change the pattern either shift late or too soon and it is some thing that should last the life of the cable.once adjusted. If it is stuck it means removal of the pan and the cable figure 2 to 4 hours. Any exhaust work done recently? It been a long time since I have done one but sort of remember guys torching them while doing exhaust work.

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Yes that's it! The cable is toast. That should fix your problem.

Great! Thanks! I hope, it's an easy fix!

Do we need a new cable, or could it be just stuck?

Anything we can try at home to fix it?

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For my curiosity see if the jacket is burned when you get the cable out that will allow water to get in.

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Great! Thanks! I hope, it's an easy fix!

Do we need a new cable, or could it be just stuck?

Anything we can try at home to fix it?

You need a new cable.

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You need a new cable.

Would this be the correct one?

http://www.jcwhitney.com/american-shifter-company-automatic-transmission-kickdown-cable/p3086554.jcwx?filterid=c3759d2183y1986g2u0j1

For my curiosity see if the jacket is burned when you get the cable out that will allow water to get in.

I'll let you know!

Edited by siskiou
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Would this be the correct one?

I'll let you know!

Well I can't see it. There probably is an aftermarket cable available I think they are a bit pricy from the dealer like over a hundred bucks.

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Well I can't see it. There probably is an aftermarket cable available I think they are a bit pricy from the dealer like over a hundred bucks.

I forgot to add the link. Should be there now.

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It can be a pain to swap that out cause you need to get to the valve body and I can't remember if I had to drop part of it but likely not. I could not find one except at Toyota and it did cost around a hundred. Here is a link to a guys woes. http://www.yotatech.com/f116/detent-cable-4-speed-overdrive-1987-toyota-pickup-267336/#post52060964

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Hi Siskiou. We had the same problem with our 1988\89 Winnie, we were 1500 miles away from home in Mexico, same as yours it would not come out of first gear and the kick down cable was slack, see photo, ours looks a little different than yours

whoops! I think I lost the photos!!!!

What I did, and you could try the same to get you up and running, I disconnected the cable as shown in the above photo, I held the brown rubber boot with my left hand, with my right hand I pushed the cable back in, mine would move after sliding it back and forth a few times, but I could feel no spring return! so then I pushed it all the way back in and then started gradually easing it back out again, I then took the rig for a drive, stopped and tweaked the cable out some more, doing the driving and tweaking several times until the transmission was changing up and down normally, I left the cable disconnected and folded it over on its self and taped it off. see next photo

We continued on our travels with it like this and the only difference I noticed was having to change down manually when climbing hills, on the drive back up to BC I stopped off at the Toyota dealer in The Dalles in Oregon and picked up a new cable, it was about $125.00 half the price of what they are here in Canada.

Mike

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It can be a pain to swap that out cause you need to get to the valve body and I can't remember if I had to drop part of it but likely not. I could not find one except at Toyota and it did cost around a hundred. Here is a link to a guys woes. http://www.yotatech.com/f116/detent-cable-4-speed-overdrive-1987-toyota-pickup-267336/#post52060964

From that post, it sounds like you have to drop the transmission!

Though he managed to fix it somehow.

What I did, and you could try the same to get you up and running, I disconnected the cable as shown in the above photo, I held the brown rubber boot with my left hand, with my right hand I pushed the cable back in, mine would move after sliding it back and forth a few times, but I could feel no spring return! so then I pushed it all the way back in and then started gradually easing it back out again, I then took the rig for a drive, stopped and tweaked the cable out some more, doing the driving and tweaking several times until the transmission was changing up and down normally, I left the cable disconnected and folded it over on its self and taped it off. see next photo

Thanks, Mike!

I tried moving the cable back in, but it's not moving.

Do you remember, if yours had stoppers? I don't see any on ours, and wonder if this cable just never had any.

Will try to work on it some more in daylight. For now, I sprayed to WD40 into the sheath, to see if it loosens up by tomorrow.

Sure would be nice to at least be able to drive it to a transmission shop safely.

How much did it cost you to get the new cable installed? Did they/you have to drop the transmission, or just the pan?

Is yours the A43D tranny?

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Pretty sure this is the part you need. From online toyota discount dealer

http://www.toyotapartsoverstock.com/p/TOYOTA_1986_4RUNNER2400CC-EFI--AUTOMATIC--4-SPEED-COLUMN-SHIFTLOW-DECK-PICKUP--STANDARD/CABLE-ASSY--THROTTLE-WCRC/3919015/3552022021.html

They have all the clips and clamps that go with it too. Just look at the diagrams.

Linda S

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I believe you need to drop the tranny pan.

Download the 88 model FSM. It should be close. This is a large file (88Meg) so be patient. Look at the Automatic Transmission section, it tells how to replace the cable.

http://iflyez.com/DOWNLOAD/88_TOYOTA_TRUCK_Service_Manual.pdf

John Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto (For Sale)

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Hi Siskiou Try pulling it out and working the cable back and forward to see if you can get any movement, then at least you would be able to drive it and get it fixed. I had mine replaced at a transmission shop and they only removed the pan, it wasn't a long job, I forget what it cost now, I don't remember there being any "stops" on the cable except for the two ends, the old cable had a rubber piece in from the motor end to gauge the adjustment.

Mike

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What you can try if you need to drive it start in L and manually shift it, if it shifts for you it most likely will still be late and shift pretty hard but it would be better (and a bit faster) then low gear. The pan has to be removed and once installed adjusted properly. Figure on 2 hours or so for some one that has done it before. Don't bother with the JCW cable get the real deal. Don't think I have ever seen any thing from JCW that actually fit properly. The cable has a plastic liner over the years the inner cable cuts through the liner so no amount of oil etc will fix it.

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I did some more looking and it seems there were 2 different cables used in 1986. You will need to search with your vin for the correct one. This is the same part number as the other one I posted and was used only to early 1986

http://www.toyotapartszone.com/oem/toyota~cable~assy~throttle~35520-22021.html

This one was used mid 86 to mid 87

http://www.toyotapartszone.com/oem/toyota~cable~assy~throttle~35520-35080.html

Linda S

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